1965 Gazelle A Dutch bike
#51
Overdoing projects
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
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Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
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I finished the front wheel yesterday, spent 2-3 hours fiddling to pull the dynamo wires through the fork and rear fender and deep-cleaned and waxed the chain!
Currently down with a flu, perhaps it's Covid again, but I hope to wrap this up by the end of the month. The main thing is touching up the paint on the frame and putting everything back together again.
Placeholder 35mm tyre on there right now because the cream Vredestein Dynamic City are out of stock everywhere until the end of the month.
The reason the wiring is sticking from the fork tube is because I will be running it inside of it up to the handlebars. These bikes have the lights mounted really high and there are special handlebar wedges with a hole in them to sneak the wiring through.
All in all it's going to be a very clean setup with minimal maintenance once it's done.
Cleaning + waxing the chain
Stripping the hooks from the original wiring and soldering them into place on the new wires:
Currently down with a flu, perhaps it's Covid again, but I hope to wrap this up by the end of the month. The main thing is touching up the paint on the frame and putting everything back together again.
Placeholder 35mm tyre on there right now because the cream Vredestein Dynamic City are out of stock everywhere until the end of the month.
The reason the wiring is sticking from the fork tube is because I will be running it inside of it up to the handlebars. These bikes have the lights mounted really high and there are special handlebar wedges with a hole in them to sneak the wiring through.
All in all it's going to be a very clean setup with minimal maintenance once it's done.
Cleaning + waxing the chain
Stripping the hooks from the original wiring and soldering them into place on the new wires:
Last edited by JaccoW; 12-11-23 at 03:33 AM.
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#52
Overdoing projects
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Worked on this beasty again. Painting turns out to be hard during the cold, wet and short days of winter but I'm slowly getting there.
Today I made a start to put everything back together again. Still need some parts that were not available before christmas but I'll get them.
Drilled the steel handlebars and added some room for internal dynamo wiring.
All of this was made possible because these handlebars are designed for this and have room for wiring stock from the factory.
New (and complete) set of ball bearings and grease on the headset.
All in all it is shaping up to be a nice bike but I will need to source a new bottom bracket axle for the cottered cranks. The right hand side must have worked itself loose at some point and has cracked on the interface between the axle and the cotter. But I have a good source on those in this country.
The wiring inside the headtube... is going to be a fun adventure for the next person that ever needs to take out the handlebars. Let's just hope that's me.
Today I made a start to put everything back together again. Still need some parts that were not available before christmas but I'll get them.
Drilled the steel handlebars and added some room for internal dynamo wiring.
All of this was made possible because these handlebars are designed for this and have room for wiring stock from the factory.
New (and complete) set of ball bearings and grease on the headset.
All in all it is shaping up to be a nice bike but I will need to source a new bottom bracket axle for the cottered cranks. The right hand side must have worked itself loose at some point and has cracked on the interface between the axle and the cotter. But I have a good source on those in this country.
The wiring inside the headtube... is going to be a fun adventure for the next person that ever needs to take out the handlebars. Let's just hope that's me.
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#53
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I believe I never showed what I am doing with the frame and its paint!
Earlier this year I started treating the frame (in parts) for rust, degreasing everything, touching up some of the gold lining and covering everything in a thin coat of glossy clearcoat.
That should keep the original paint as intact as possible while still protecting the steel against the elements for a while again. So far I am really digging the look:
Earlier this year I started treating the frame (in parts) for rust, degreasing everything, touching up some of the gold lining and covering everything in a thin coat of glossy clearcoat.
That should keep the original paint as intact as possible while still protecting the steel against the elements for a while again. So far I am really digging the look:
Thanks.
#54
Newbie
This has been a fascinating project on so many levels. Very impressive! Yes, I’d like to hear more about how you resurrected the paint, too. Great work!
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#55
Overdoing projects
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Since this is a black bike I treat most of it with a gel rust converter that I just paint on, then spray off with water after 15-30 minutes. It's called Rustyco. I believe it is essentially phosphoric acid in gel form and it will leave some white residu if left on too long, but nothing you cannot remove with some other chemicals.
For the small parts I use a large mason jar filled with a oxalic acid solution. Works great but when left on too long I noticed it will start eating into some of the chrome, making it dull. We're talking a couple of days though. Chances are I used the wrong water for it. You're not supposed to use tap water as the salts in tap water have a tendency to react over time and leave large crystals.
Parts seem to be elusive still. The tyre I want has its back-in-stock date pushed back again and again so that means some of the last few parts have to wait as well.
I have a line on a NOS bottom bracket axle but for now I am just going to put the original back in with lots of grease.
The cotter pin on the drive side slipped at some point and cracked the chrome and deformed the metal. That was why it was such a pain to get the cranks off originally. So I just cleaned it up with a metal file and put everything back together. Lots of marine grease everywhere and it should be good for a while.
Spins smoothly again.
As a final bit for the day I added connectors to the cables going to the rear light. Two quality crimp connectors and some 4:1 heatshrink should do the trick.
As you can tell the clearcoat on some parts is peeling off. I guess trying to paint a metal frame in near freezing conditions doesn't work great, even if the paint itself is at room temperature. I'll have to remove and redo that part later.
Tomorrow I am going to try and fit the chain and chaincase!
For the small parts I use a large mason jar filled with a oxalic acid solution. Works great but when left on too long I noticed it will start eating into some of the chrome, making it dull. We're talking a couple of days though. Chances are I used the wrong water for it. You're not supposed to use tap water as the salts in tap water have a tendency to react over time and leave large crystals.
Parts seem to be elusive still. The tyre I want has its back-in-stock date pushed back again and again so that means some of the last few parts have to wait as well.
I have a line on a NOS bottom bracket axle but for now I am just going to put the original back in with lots of grease.
The cotter pin on the drive side slipped at some point and cracked the chrome and deformed the metal. That was why it was such a pain to get the cranks off originally. So I just cleaned it up with a metal file and put everything back together. Lots of marine grease everywhere and it should be good for a while.
Spins smoothly again.
As a final bit for the day I added connectors to the cables going to the rear light. Two quality crimp connectors and some 4:1 heatshrink should do the trick.
As you can tell the clearcoat on some parts is peeling off. I guess trying to paint a metal frame in near freezing conditions doesn't work great, even if the paint itself is at room temperature. I'll have to remove and redo that part later.
Tomorrow I am going to try and fit the chain and chaincase!
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#56
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I believe I never showed what I am doing with the frame and its paint!
Earlier this year I started treating the frame (in parts) for rust, degreasing everything, touching up some of the gold lining and covering everything in a thin coat of glossy clearcoat.
That should keep the original paint as intact as possible while still protecting the steel against the elements for a while again. So far I am really digging the look:
Earlier this year I started treating the frame (in parts) for rust, degreasing everything, touching up some of the gold lining and covering everything in a thin coat of glossy clearcoat.
That should keep the original paint as intact as possible while still protecting the steel against the elements for a while again. So far I am really digging the look:
It would look great on my Gazelle
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Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
Last edited by bwilli88; 01-03-24 at 07:57 AM.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#58
Overdoing projects
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You might even be able to fit these Gazelle M9 axle nuts to your Sturmey Archer front hub. The rear looks like it might be a Shimano model?
For a lot of really old vintage stuff there is BikesToRemember.nl that mostly specializes in (second-hand) parts for 50's and older models. But some, like the Gazelle Tour, still have spare parts being made for them.
#59
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The rear looks like it might be a Shimano model?
But some, like the Gazelle Tour, still have spare parts being made for them.
But some, like the Gazelle Tour, still have spare parts being made for them.
Mudflap and insignia would be around $8 but shipping would be $38
Ugh!
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Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
#60
Overdoing projects
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Try to find some M9 bolts locally to see if these would fit.
#61
Overdoing projects
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So the bike is going back in the shed for some more work in a couple of weeks. I need a couple of very specific parts that are either out of stock for now or will take some time... and I kind of want my kitchen back.
To do:
Here are some shots of the bike in its current state:
To do:
- New cottered axle
- New cotter pins
- Longer 26.6mm seatpost
- Pedals
- The right front tyre
- Repainting the top tube
- Special metal wire for the lacquered cloth chaincase, maybe a new frame for the chaincase as well.
- Figuring out if the drag I hear in the rear wheel is because of the brand new tyre or if there is some space issue
- Re-attach the fender shield
- Test drive
- Double check if the Sturmey Archer GH6 dynamo provides enough power at normal riding speed for both LED lights
Here are some shots of the bike in its current state:
Last edited by JaccoW; 01-07-24 at 10:23 AM.
#62
Overdoing projects
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#63
aka Tom Reingold
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It's beautiful! You're quite an engineer and mechanic.
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#64
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Outstanding. Thankyou!
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