E-bike chain for humans?
07-06-18, 11:38 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
E-bike chain for humans?
Had anyone any experience with e-bike chains on human powered bikes? I was thinking, maybe they last longer, since they are meant for mid drive e-bikes, that has more sustained power than 95% of all humans.
07-06-18, 11:56 AM
#2
Mechanic/Tourist
Sustained power does not strain a chain enough that an e-bike chain (if they are even specific) would have to be stronger. If you want a chain to last longer up your rpm's.
07-06-18, 03:37 PM
#3
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Chains rarely fail because of only tension. Most breakages are from twisting on the links so that the side plates try to pull off the pin ends. This twisting is often worsened by poor shifting techniques. cny-bikeman has it right, high cadence riders rarely see chain issues and their other stuff tends to last longer too. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
07-07-18, 06:35 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Im not talking about breaking the chain. I was suggesting, maybe a e-bike chain is higher quality and last longer, because it is made to withstand higher sustained power. Fast pedelecs are in the 350-500w range and that is far more than 99% of all humans can do.
07-07-18, 07:48 AM
#5
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Hmmm... I see KMC has a bunch of different chains.
KMC Chain
Unfortunately there isn't a good 3rd party side-by-side comparison between all the chains on the market.
My next chain experiment is with the Wippermann Connex Stainless, but still, it is hard to say which is best between chains.
I see KMC lists 10,000+ KM on a couple of their chains.
10,000km
KMC Chain
Unfortunately there isn't a good 3rd party side-by-side comparison between all the chains on the market.
My next chain experiment is with the Wippermann Connex Stainless, but still, it is hard to say which is best between chains.
I see KMC lists 10,000+ KM on a couple of their chains.
10,000km
Last edited by CliffordK; 07-07-18 at 07:52 AM.
07-07-18, 07:54 AM
#6
Mechanic/Tourist
Sustained power has negligible effect on wear either. Contamination and high pedaling force (low rpm, high gear) are the biggest factors. Also, the chain would only be a factor at all with crank drive ebikes.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 07-07-18 at 08:10 AM.
07-07-18, 08:15 AM
#7
Banned
1/8" wide chain is quite strong..
hub motor electrics don't drive thru the chain, only mid drives..
you have a specific e-bike in mind ?
....
hub motor electrics don't drive thru the chain, only mid drives..
you have a specific e-bike in mind ?
....
07-07-18, 08:21 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hmmm... I see KMC has a bunch of different chains.
KMC Chain
Unfortunately there isn't a good 3rd party side-by-side comparison between all the chains on the market.
My next chain experiment is with the Wippermann Connex Stainless, but still, it is hard to say which is best between chains.
I see KMC lists 10,000+ KM on a couple of their chains.
10,000km
KMC Chain
Unfortunately there isn't a good 3rd party side-by-side comparison between all the chains on the market.
My next chain experiment is with the Wippermann Connex Stainless, but still, it is hard to say which is best between chains.
I see KMC lists 10,000+ KM on a couple of their chains.
10,000km
07-07-18, 08:22 AM
#9
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However, I was thinking about powered bikes the other day. I saw the local co-op with their E-Cargo bike dead beside the road. Apparently lost a quick link. Assuming one has enough juice, a hub motor on the other hand should allow one to limp home without the chain.
07-07-18, 08:29 AM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Of course this is not what Im talking about. Im talking about using a multi speed chain, made for a mid drive e-bike, on a human power bike.
07-07-18, 08:31 AM
#11
Banned
I like full bushing chains, its actually the oldest type, but after 6 speeds the bushingless chain took over
that is what all derailleur chain use, now.. roller only supported on the edges,
if your drive train has a cassette back wheel that is what you have...
that is what all derailleur chain use, now.. roller only supported on the edges,
if your drive train has a cassette back wheel that is what you have...
07-07-18, 08:34 AM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
In not sure where you are going with this. How does that relate to my initial question?
07-07-18, 08:37 AM
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On a long eBike trip I was suddenly plagued with breaking chains. This occurred as I was approaching the first steep grade on the trip.I realized that I didn't need a chain that would be able to shift because I was using an NuVinci for a rear hub.
Fortunately I was only about forty miles from Pueblo, which had a good bicycle shop. I decided to get a BMX chain (well, three BMX chains). To use that chain I had to make some roadside changed to the drive parts (removing the chain tube, and the guides from the idler pulley). Very simply, that solved the problem and I didn't have any more chain problems as I crossed the rocky mountains.
Fortunately I was only about forty miles from Pueblo, which had a good bicycle shop. I decided to get a BMX chain (well, three BMX chains). To use that chain I had to make some roadside changed to the drive parts (removing the chain tube, and the guides from the idler pulley). Very simply, that solved the problem and I didn't have any more chain problems as I crossed the rocky mountains.
07-07-18, 08:48 AM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
On a long eBike trip I was suddenly plagued with breaking chains. This occurred as I was approaching the first steep grade on the trip.I realized that I didn't need a chain that would be able to shift because I was using an NuVinci for a rear hub.
Fortunately I was only about forty miles from Pueblo, which had a good bicycle shop. I decided to get a BMX chain (well, three BMX chains). To use that chain I had to make some roadside changed to the drive parts (removing the chain tube, and the guides from the idler pulley). Very simply, that solved the problem and I didn't have any more chain problems as I crossed the rocky mountains.
Fortunately I was only about forty miles from Pueblo, which had a good bicycle shop. I decided to get a BMX chain (well, three BMX chains). To use that chain I had to make some roadside changed to the drive parts (removing the chain tube, and the guides from the idler pulley). Very simply, that solved the problem and I didn't have any more chain problems as I crossed the rocky mountains.
07-07-18, 09:02 AM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I thought the OP was just looking for longevity without the motor.
However, I was thinking about powered bikes the other day. I saw the local co-op with their E-Cargo bike dead beside the road. Apparently lost a quick link. Assuming one has enough juice, a hub motor on the other hand should allow one to limp home without the chain.
However, I was thinking about powered bikes the other day. I saw the local co-op with their E-Cargo bike dead beside the road. Apparently lost a quick link. Assuming one has enough juice, a hub motor on the other hand should allow one to limp home without the chain.
07-07-18, 09:13 AM
#17
Banned
Pedal-electric, even if it has a rear hub motor , you only get assist if you pedal .
sensor not in the crank at all , but in the hub.
you have gotten off into the weeds..
just get a chain don't be fussy .. walk into your E bike dealer, get whatever chain they use.
Put it on your push bike, Just replace it sooner rather than later...
...
sensor not in the crank at all , but in the hub.
you have gotten off into the weeds..
just get a chain don't be fussy .. walk into your E bike dealer, get whatever chain they use.
Put it on your push bike, Just replace it sooner rather than later...
...
