Rodrider88

Hey guys!

Ive got this Raleigh Team Rapide from around 1972ish. Carlton forks with some lovely original details, it needs a bit of a clean up but otherwise seems to be in good shape.

Any extra information would be great.





AVA rims - anything special about them?

Raleigh Weimann brakes

Raleigh branded RD

T-Mar

Based on the serial number, it's actually from 1977. The tubing is plain gauge (i.e. non-butted) Reynolds 531 and only for the three main tubes. The fork blades and stays are made form a different material , most likely hi-tensile steel given the stamped dropouts and Huret derailleur with claw adapter. Other cost concessions are the swaged crankset and lack of brazed-on fittings. Given, the era, I'd consider this to be around the crossover from entry level to mid-range.

Rodrider88

Thanks, T-Mar!

Silly me, I was using the Serial number information on Sheldon's page for the American made Raleighs. Now the 1977 makes more sense!

jon c. 

My understanding is the "W" serial number marks it as a Workshop bike, which are generally more desirable than those from the larger Nottingham facility. I'm not expert on valuation, but I'd think that would push it to mid range level.

T-Mar

Jon, yes this is a Worksop model. Basically, Worksop built the Reynolds 531 models for Raleigh. However, this is as low as a manufacturer would typically go in 531 content, being plain gauge and only for the main tubes. In essence, this is a re-dressed Raleigh Super Course. Had it been boom era, I would have considered it mid-range but post boom I would have expected a few more upgrades and features. Still, bicycle level is a subjective issue and one person's upper entry level might be another's lower mid-range, which is why I put it "around the crossover". That gives a little leeway in both directions, depending on your point of view.

Rodrider88

Hi Again,

I've been meaning to respond to this thread... I noticed there is a stamping of '73' on the seat tube lug. Is there any idea what this could be?

bertinjim 

Rodrider88 -

That 73 would indicate the lug angle measured in degrees, not dating of any kind.

juvela

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Had not previously encountered this model.

Thanks very much for posting.

Was it a UK only model?

IIRC this livery began with the 1974 model year.

BTW - bottom bracket locking is fitted backwards. Perhaps some poor blighter at Worksop facility had a super who kept a sharp eye on the clock...

...either that or an "after lunch" cycle...


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bertinjim 

The Rapide was a UK/Europe model. You sometimes see them advertised on EBay France.

big chainring 

Same as a Super Course.

juvela

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Do you have access to a Raleigh UK edition catalogue for the 1977 year?

The only 1977 year catalogues have been able to locate online are the USA edition.

It illustrates the Super Course as coming with a Maeda gear ensemble.

Somewhat doubt the persons at Freres Huret and Maeda would have reacted positively to someone stating their products were "same as."


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bertinjim 

juvela-

I have seen a same period Raleigh Competition UK spec equipped with Huret Challenger so it would seem Huret for UK/Euro spec bikes and Suntour for NA like the Super Course.

juvela

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Thanks so much Iago!

One can almost hear the execs at Worksop -

"Those bleedin' Yanks and their Suntour derailleur mania!"


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jmlandry77

Good to know... 531 isn't always double butted and doesn't always cover the whole frame.

I have a clear understanding of crank types... Cottered, swagered, aluminum and steel. Q what are high end cranks called (spider forged onto crank arm)? 3 piece or forged???

bertinjim 

jmlandry77-


The highest quality cranks are typically called forged cranksets and typically have an integrated spider. There are forged cranks which are exceptions like the TA Cyclotouiste and the Stronglight 49D which have no spider but generally other forged cranksets have spiders that are integrated. Examples of that would be Campy Record, Sugino Mighty, or Shimano Dura Ace. The next level down would be "melt forged" cranksets which often have an integral spider such as the SR Apex series or Stronglight 104 or TS. Melt forging is really high pressure alloy casting and strength of these is lower than forged cranksets. Finally, you have the "melt forged" alloy cranksets where the spider is swaged/crimped onto the crank arm like the Sugino Maxy and Super Maxy and the Stronglight 5470 a Stronglight 104 lookalike.

jmlandry77

The more I learn , the less I (realize) know.

I looked at images associated w/ those cranks. Thanks for the info!

Rodrider88

I feel like I'm learning a lot messing around with this bike and I have another question regarding the chroming.

It appears the forks are chromed, at least at the dropouts - but how about the rest of the forks underneath the paint? You can just about make out that there are some chromed spots underneath the chipped areas of paint... would this mean the forks have been fully chromed and then painted?

bertinjim 

Rodrider88 -

Typically, steel is polished to a very smooth, high shine before chroming takes place. Normally, British chroming follows a polish, cooper plating, nickel plating, chrome plating sequence. Usually, to save labour and cost the initial high polish is only on the area that will show when completed. It may be that the whole fork is plated but the non-showing areas will be dull since the steel fork was not uniformly buffed in advance. (I've actually seen this on paint stripped Tange chrome forks.) Often, though, Raleigh merely chromed the show areas with the chrome plating fading and thinning away further up the fork or frameset. This was especially noticeable with headlug chroming when a frame was paint stripped. You can see some shining chrome in your photo through the paint chipping so I am guessing a fade out about half way up the fork.

Rodrider88

Good information! thanks!

Does anyone know off the top of their head which BB Thread this model will likely have (without me opening up - It's back at my parents place at the minute and I'm planning things!)

bertinjim 

Rodrider88-

A Carlton built Raleigh branded bike typically had a normal English thread standard of 24 TPI in the bottom bracket. Raleigh built Raleighs usually had the proprietary Raleigh threads of 26 TPI. You should be fine with normal BBs.

FlavioFaria

Olá a todos! Sou do Brasil, acabei de comprar uma Raleigh rapide idêntica as da foto acima, gostaria de saber qual valor que essa bicicleta tem e como faço para saber o ano dela. Acabei de me registrar por isso não consigo mandar foto, se alguém quiser ver me manda mensagem no WhatsApp no número +5511998038425.

​​​​​​Muito obrigado!!!

zukahn1 

Based on the serial number it is a Nottingham work shop frame set so it most likely has a Raliegh threaded bb with a 3mm drive side offset so it will need a Raliegh BB. Good news is the OEM BB's on these were very nice lose ball so unless it has been totally trashed you can just rebuild it with new bearings and grease.

bertinjim 

FlavioFaria -

O seu Raleigh pode ser identificado procurando o número de série no suporte inferior. Se for uma bicicleta fabricada pela Carlton Cycles, o número de série começará com W, o que significa que a fábrica da Carlton em Worksop. A próxima carta informa o mês em que a bicicleta foi produzida e o número, como 7 ou 8, indica o ano de produção de 1977 ou 1978. os outros números são o número de série real, mostrando a ordem em que a estrutura foi construída. Desculpe pelo Google Tradutor, mas espero que ajude.

Baypathbike

Here's the next level up, the Team Record, full butted 531 and Campy forged drop outs, another European-market model, Todd