unworthy1

I was stoked to pick up a wheelset with these Pelissier 2000 HF hubs, which I have never owned before.
They seem to have a glowing rep but I find little info on them in the 'webs, except this page on Velobase:
VeloBase.com - Component: Pelissier 2000 Professional (high flange)
Clear that this model uses sealed bearings but how do you service them (when needed) and what size cartridge units do they take?
Any members have first-hand reports on them to share?
My plan is to use them as the "non-tubular" set for my '74 Motobecane Grand Record, I think the high flanges tho a little too-modern will still be visually nice on that bike.

fietsbob

Loose balls? Measure.. rear usually 1/4"


a Park Spoke ruler has a series of holes as a go/no-go, drop through gauge.



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juvela

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Our @CV-6 is running these on at least one of his mounts.

He should have some hands-on information for you.

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unworthy1

No, not loose balls, these use sealed cartridge bearings, item number probably marked on the seals but I don't want to poke around and break something< I learned the hard way the first time I serviced some Mavic sealed bearing hubs!

CV-6 

I have four wheelsets with these hubs. I think the large flange hubs are the best looking hubs out there. Front takes a 629Z and rear 16100Z. Those translate to 9 x 26 x 8 and 10 x 28 x 8. These are pretty easy to service. Exploded illustration on the pic below shows you have a dust cap that unscrews to reveal the bearing.


Page 02-03 by L Travers, on Flickr

The ones I have serviced already had sealed bearings in them. As you can see, the illustration shows something else entirely and I have yet to service the units I have that match up more with the illustration. I don't know if sealed bearings came later in the production run or if the hubs had been serviced. There is a post on RetroBike that deals with servicing these magneto type bearings. RetroBike artilce



This is how I serviced mine:

• Remove the dust caps/spacers. On the rear that is two items on one side.
• Measure the distance from the bearing face to the end of the axle.
• Tap the axle out. You are replacing these so no worries about damaging bearings
• Remove the bearings from the hub shell. I used a long screw driver as I did not have a bearing puller. I do now and my experience with them is hit or miss. Heating the hub to 200 degrees may help.
• I created bearing drivers, two 1 1/4 inch hardwood dowel cut to about three inches. You will need to work the OD on these down to around 28 on one end and 26mm on the other. The idea here is to support the outer bearing race so it does not have to be perfect, just support that outer race.
• Drill a 10 mm hole centered in the end worked down to 28mm, a 9mm hole in the 26mm end. This is so you have drivers for front and rear that support the inner race.
• Mount the correct driver vertically in a vice. Place your new bearing on top of it. I secured it with tape around the outside.
• Tap the axle into the bearing to the dimension you recorded earlier for the bearing face to end of axle.
• Remove tape securing bearing to the driver.
• Remove driver from vice.
• Secure the hub so that you can drive the new bearing with the axle into the hub shell using the driver.
• Flip the hub over with the new bearing down. Place the hub new bearing side on the driver and secure.
• Using the other driver, tap the other new bearing onto the axle and then into the hub shell.
• Remove the hub and verify the dimensions.

Now having written all that, it may be that the axle just slides in and all you need to do is make sure the dimension axle end to bearing face is good. That has happened once in three occasions.

Some pics below the hubs I own.


DSCN2459 by L Travers, on Flickr


DSCN2457 by L Travers, on Flickr


DSCN2460 by L Travers, on Flickr

unworthy1

All RIGHT, that's the full explanation I was dreaming of...thanks, Lynn!