TimothyH

We had a thread about the Topstone.

https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-topstone.html

I'm not trying to hawk it but it does check many boxes and the 105/7000 model seems like a great value.


530 g is heavy. Switch to Panaracer Gravelking SK 38 mm (41 actual) when the WTB's wear out and you will save 105 grams per tire. That's almost 1/2 lb of rotational weight. The bike will ride and handle much livelier, especially for riders who are not powerful. .


A few CAADX and Topstone details were compared in the other thread...

The Topstone has lower gearing as it comes with FSA Adventure 46/30 cranks and 11/34 cassette. The CAADX comes with Cannondale Si w/ FSA Rings 48/32 cranks and 11/32 cassette.

The Topstone has Shimano flat mount hydro brakes - this is the elusive R7000 hydro/disk setup which can't be found as individual parts but only OEM on bikes from the factory. The CAADX has TRP Spyre C mechanical.

The CAADX has QR hubs in the rear. The Topstone is 12mm thru axle front and rear.

Both come with the most excellent Fabirc Radius Sport saddle. The Topstone is dropper post ready in case it matters.


-Tim-

mstateglfr 

it's a really nkce package for the $.
the all black/slate/whatever theybdont to call it is a major negative.
the day so many bikes stop being basically murdered out will be a happy day.

...though the subtle badging is appreciated.

redlude97

Was comparing to the dead sexy CAADX Ultegra at $2150

Chi_Z

Also check out Niner RLT RDO, mine is right at 20lb with heavy crankset and wheelset, can easily get down to 18lb ish

HarborBandS

I actually really like the subtle metallic charcoal grey with the tan walls. I strongly prefer a clean, understated look.

HarborBandS

Does the "Chi" in your handle mean you're in Chicago? Do you ever ride out west of the city?

I live right off the Illinois Prairie Path, which is by far the easiest place for me to ride without much vehicular interference. And it feeds in to the Great Wetern Trail (a bit sandier), the Salt River Trail, the Fox River Trail, and several others. Some paved, some are hard packed crushed limestone, and some are looser sand and gravel. That's basically why I'm looking for a "do it all bike", but I prefer the feel and characteristics of a road bike.

shoota 

I think this is the same guy selling it on FB as well. I think he'd ship.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2019-Cannon...frcectupt=true

TimothyH

Correcting myself. I believe the 2019's have thru axle.

-Tim-

TimothyH

I'm not convinced an 18 lb RLT 9 RDO is possible.

Mine is 19.7 lb. with carbon RDO seatpost and stem, carbon cages and saddle, Ti pedals and 1300 gram wheels. Rotors are larger 160's, the cassette is a heavier SRAM 11-36 and tires are Panaracer Gravelking SK 43 front/38 rear. It is also Di2 but even so I don't think it possible to get down to 18 lb.

There is a guy on Pedalroom who claims his is 17 lb with fenders. Either his scale is off or he isn't telling the truth.


-Tim-

Chi_Z

My 20lb RDO has 1770g wheelset, 900g crankset, 280g suspension stem., if you swap them out with 1300g wheelset, 600g crankset and 100g stem that's 470g+300g+180g=950g (2.09lb)
Keep in mind I am using mechanical red with TRP brakes, Di2 8070 is 1lb heaver than mechanical red

chas58

I boiled it down to the Spec. Crux, Canyon Inflite, Open UP. A responsive 17lb ride with 40mm tires is kinda fun...
(my bike is about 16lbs with 31mm road tires/wheels)

chas58

From what I see an entry level carbon frame and aluminum frame are similar in weight. Its not hard to get a 20lb aluminum bike for $2000 (I had a Bike Direct for $800, and Canyon AL Grail is $200.

(Yes you can change the stem on the AL Grail, and yes you can test ride one for free if you don't mind shipping it back once you are done).


I love the bike, but its not a $2000 bike at 18lb or 20lb.

True

chas58

Since everyone loved the Tamland and Roker so much, I would seriously look at the next generation: the new Noble Bikes GX5

Mark, who designed those split off from Raleigh (as Raleigh was going off in a different direction) and started his own company, improving on his original design. It looks like it is $3k, and just under 20lbs.

from the initial review:
" it really is a “go-fast” gravel travel machine. The Noble GX5 sent to us to review is a size 58cm and without pedals it weighed in at 19.55lbs with tubes in the tires."

Noble Bikes GX5 Gravel Bike: Getting Rolling -

gus6464

The Noble GX3 is aluminum and identical to the GX5 for a grand less. If I remember correctly the GX3 is about a pound heavier than the GX5.

Chi_Z

I would not trust the lightweight generic open mold fork they got on the Noble, there is a reason good gravel forks are around 500-600g

TimothyH

Well, I'd like to see it and would be happy to test ride it if you do.


-Tim-

TimothyH

Well, I'd like to see it and would be happy to test ride it if you do.

Either way, the OP has a $3000 budget cap. Left over frames were $1750 and maybe a build could be done for under $3000. I don't know.


-Tim-

gus6464

The Ibis Hakka MX is the most versatile within the range at $3000. Plus can be ordered with 700c or 650b with no change in price. No other brand offers that at the price range.

base2 

I wasn't saying it couldn't be done. I was saying that a bike that fulfills all of his requirements & be new would have a limited selection to choose from. Compromises in one area leads to opportunities in another. The bulk of the bikes listed in this thread come in reasonably close, but he wasn't asking for a 22 pound bike, he wanted 20 or better. It was going to be hard to check all the boxes that's all.

FWIW: Many of the bikes here look like they would be very capable. The closest still require a part swap or 2 and additional expense to squeak under. If it were me, I'd have an ubėr light road wheel set for long rides & a decent strong gravel wheel set (OEM? 650b?) to jam along the unpaved. Why compromise if you can reconfigure?

Anywhoo, all the best,
Aaron

redlude97

he said 21-22lbs stock was fine

base2 

I think an edit happened after I made my first reply on page one. I definitely would have seen the bolded text that gave some wiggle room. Nevermind my point has been seen & understood by the OP, he has many good suggestions & that is good enough for me.

mstateglfr 

I dont follow.
what other brands use this mould? I admittedly am not a carbon fork expert.
how much does it weigh and was it listed somewhere obvious that I missed?

TommyTwoTone

When I was a kid I had a gravel bike, it was also street bike and with baskets it could haul stuff, it came with wide tires (whitewalls), it rode fantastic on any terrain, city streets, sidewalks, dirt trails, mud and various paths. We didn't spend any effort into trying to figure out what bike would do what, let alone spend much money and we fixed the thing ourselves. It was a 1959 Schwinn Tornado, now I have a Marin Muirwoods 29er and it does the same things as my Schwinn did back in the day, except the brakes are better. What I'm trying to say is, I guess, just get you a good bicycle and enjoy riding the thing wherever you want without over-thinking the process.

shoota 

You're on the wrong forum lol. Overthinking is exactly what we like to do.

Cscornette

If you want to get into a bike at your desired weight and cost, I'd recommend considering used frames (make sure to check it over really carefully before buying). A quality new frame is going to soak up your budget and you'll be stuck with a low-end through set or poor wheels, which will impact your ride a lot.