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$300 Bike Choice?

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Old 09-07-16, 08:51 PM
  #26  
CosmicF
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This response highlights your lack of understanding
What a vast judgement call on someone that you have no idea about.
Sure Shimano makes a vast array of products, but on a derailer, there are still the same number of adjustment screws and are all set in the same way. If you can keep a Huffy fine tuned, you can set up a Trek. That's all I meant.

But, it's obvious that I am wasting my breath... um, typing... I am sure that you know your stuff when it comes to gear. You can probably out gear and fork frap me in circles.
Riding a bike is fun, life is fun. Don't let the gear get you down.
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Old 09-07-16, 09:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CosmicF
What a vast judgement call on someone that you have no idea about.
I am merely judging based upon the posts that you have made here. You only have yourself to blame for the picture that you have painted.


Originally Posted by CosmicF
Sure Shimano makes a vast array of products, but on a derailer[sic], there are still the same number of adjustment screws and are all set in the same way. If you can keep a Huffy fine tuned, you can set up a Trek. That's all I meant.
This again reinforces the fact that you don't know what you are going on about. Derailleurs are not merely defined by how many adjustment screws they have.

Low end derailleurs are stamped soft steel with weak return springs, sloppy bushings, etc.

So yes, while they are "all set in the same way" the low end Wallyword crap does not stay set the same way nor survive real mountain biking.

Originally Posted by CosmicF
But, it's obvious that I am wasting my breath... um, typing... I am sure that you know your stuff when it comes to gear. You can probably out gear and fork frap me in circles.
Riding a bike is fun, life is fun. Don't let the gear get you down.
This is you being confused once again.

My gear doesn't get me down. I buy good gear.

What makes me laugh is a clueless newb like you offering really, really bad advice to folks.

p.s. Asking again since you were too cowardly to answer:

How do you define "moderately technical track"?
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Old 09-07-16, 09:55 PM
  #28  
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Wow! You win! I am not sure why you want me to explain what a moderately technical track is. But, sure boss, if you're not going to spend $1200 for a bike, then I guess you should stay at home. Listen to these guys. No fun or fitness until you bring the bank roll to the bike shop.
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Old 09-07-16, 10:02 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CosmicF
Wow! You win! I am not sure why you want me to explain what a moderately technical track is. But, sure boss, if you're not going to spend $1200 for a bike, then I guess you should stay at home. Listen to these guys. No fun or fitness until you bring the bank roll to the bike shop.
Again, you are misrepresenting other people's positions because you're uncomfortable when confronted with facts and simple questions.

"if you're not going to spend $1200 for a bike, then I guess you should stay at home"

Nobody has suggested this. That's just a silly straw man argument that you have concocted to make you feel better.

The reason why I asked you to clarify your "moderately technical track" claim is that you are trapped in Alabama which is not exactly known for stellar technical mountain biking, let alone "moderate technical tracks" (the mere wordage here is a red flag -you're not a mountain biker, but a guy who tootles around on a mountain bike while claiming he can feel comfortable on his daughter's Huffy). An honest answer would have revealed your bias. But of course you cowered instead of being honest.

Par for the course...
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Old 09-08-16, 06:43 AM
  #30  
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OK, why it is almost everywhere, talking about anything, the conversation goes to extremes. He doesn't have to choose between a $150 WalMart bike or a $1200 "real" bike.
That is why I suggested the Motobecane 529HT,, It is inbetween. much, much better than the WalMart bikes, but only $399, and comes in actual different sizes. And I know this because my son has one, he is 6'1" and fits on a large. Sure it was different for us, because we have an actual bikes direct store here and were able to actually ride the bike before buying it. But it is a decent bike.
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Old 09-08-16, 08:11 AM
  #31  
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I believe the guy is in Australia, so the Bikes Direct option might not fly.

And you don't need to spend over a grand, but I think saving a couple hundred more dollars and then looking, opens up your options to at least some bike brands with names I've heard of before.
Hardtail | Chain Reaction Cycles

I'm sure just about any bike shop could help him out with a $500-$600 option.
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Old 09-08-16, 08:29 AM
  #32  
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for someone new to cycling, with a little help from someone knowledgeable, a $300 used bike is a much better choice than a $300 new one...
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Old 09-08-16, 09:37 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by FullGas
for someone new to cycling, with a little help from someone knowledgeable, a $300 used bike is a much better choice than a $300 new one...
That is a generalization that is not always true.
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Old 09-08-16, 03:14 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by hig4s
That is a generalization that is not always true.
yeah, yeah...there's no absolute truths, thanks for the penetrating philosophical insight...but, it's true enough to warrant serious consideration.

a new $300 bike is at the very bottom of the price spectrum. and you get what you pay for.

getting someone with a little knowledge to help a new rider sort thru some used offerings can end up providing more bang for buck...I recently found a $1200 bike for a noob that was being offered for $350...was in excellent condition, only needed a minor tune and a new rear tire.
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Old 09-08-16, 04:00 PM
  #35  
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I looked at MTBs under or around $800 and saw, as I expected, heavy frames, heavy but not necessarily strong wheels, and useless forks.

I shopped Craigslist and found a very slightly used Cannondale Rize 4 which the owner had upgraded ... the wheels alone, Nine Industries, are worth what I paid for the bike.

Of course generalizations are general, and cannot be applied in every specific case ... that is sort of implied in the name, eh?

That's a pretty good generalization.
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Old 09-08-16, 04:29 PM
  #36  
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I'm guessing the OP is gone, but if we could get a local craigslist type site, we could at least look around a bit and point at used bikes that might work.
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Old 09-08-16, 04:41 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
Nine Industries
That's funny.
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Old 09-09-16, 06:26 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FullGas
yeah, yeah...there's no absolute truths, thanks for the penetrating philosophical insight...but, it's true enough to warrant serious consideration.

a new $300 bike is at the very bottom of the price spectrum. and you get what you pay for.

getting someone with a little knowledge to help a new rider sort thru some used offerings can end up providing more bang for buck...I recently found a $1200 bike for a noob that was being offered for $350...was in excellent condition, only needed a minor tune and a new rear tire.
It is reasonable to think, if you think at all, that the OP is looking for assistance here because he doesn't know anyone personally with that kind of knowledge. So while it might be worth considering, your insistence used is the best way to go is totally unfounded. There is a lot of used junk out there so without someone of knowledge to assist
it is risky to buy used.

Also, "you get what you pay for" as an argument would prove you are wrong, as paying less for a used bike would mean you are not getting as much bike as paying more for new.

AND a $300 to $400 dollar bike from Bikes Direct is not a bottom of the barrel bike even though it is the low end of the price spectrum, thus proving you don't always get what you pay for.
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Old 09-09-16, 09:54 AM
  #39  
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yeah ... I had in fact never heard of Industry Nine until I checked out the CL ad ... the wheels weigh about the same as the wheels on my road bike, and are about twice as strong.

Most seriously the wheels are worth what I paid for the whole bike.
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Old 09-09-16, 11:15 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
yeah ... I had in fact never heard of Industry Nine
Quality hubs with the best POE (120 if you run six instead of three pawls) and it's nice to be able to service the hub with basic tools.
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Old 09-12-16, 12:56 PM
  #41  
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I suggest you not to buy a second-hand bike, there are a lot of best variants of new bikes, cheap and modern.
You can read some reviews, choose your bike and then try the favourite bike in your local shop.
Personally, I have read the following articles before I've chosen mine.
1. Best for start comparing: Best mountain bike: the ultimate buyer's guide - BikeRadar
2. Top list of modern bikes for men and women:
Top Mountain Bikes for Cool Riding | Best Adviser
3. The new 2016 models: The 16 Best Mountain Bikes of 2016 | Bicycling
Good luck!
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Old 09-12-16, 01:57 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by KristinaW
No bikes in the OP's $300 pricepoint.

Originally Posted by KristinaW
2. Top list of modern bikes for men and women:
Top Mountain Bikes for Cool Riding | Best Adviser
One bike is his price range and it's a crappy $200 Walmart-style Schwinn.

Originally Posted by KristinaW
Not a single bike that is anywhere near the OP's $300 price point.

Your suggestions are not helpful.

If the OP is smart he will get the best bang for the buck by finding a quality used bike in his price range.
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Old 09-12-16, 05:04 PM
  #43  
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$300 ... there really isn't anything worthy of or even safe for off-road riding at that price point, New, unless it is a child's bike.
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Old 09-13-16, 07:48 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by benaroundawhile

Your suggestions are not helpful.

If the OP is smart he will get the best bang for the buck by finding a quality used bike in his price range.
Sorry, I totally forget about prices
But I'm still sure that it's better to have something new, even not so modern than buy an expensive stuff or bike from second hand.
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Old 09-13-16, 10:26 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by KristinaW
But I'm still sure that it's better to have something new, even not so modern than buy an expensive stuff or bike from second hand.
Not really, at this price point. For a rigid frame ... big difference would be weight and garbage components. But for a bike with a suspension fork ... you can barely buy a usable fork for $300 ... so the fork you get an a $300 bike is pretty much a liability. heavy, barely functional, not adjustable, prone to breakage ... won't do what a suspension for is for, and won't do what a rigid fork would do. Lose/Lose is not a good investment.
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Old 09-13-16, 04:51 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
Not really, at this price point. For a rigid frame ... big difference would be weight and garbage components. But for a bike with a suspension fork ... you can barely buy a usable fork for $300 ... so the fork you get an a $300 bike is pretty much a liability. heavy, barely functional, not adjustable, prone to breakage ... won't do what a suspension for is for, and won't do what a rigid fork would do. Lose/Lose is not a good investment.
I think everything depends on who had been riding before.
As an example: my father is an excellent car driver and he has been driving for 40 years. And I'm not such good, and sometimes I can make some mistakes on the road. So I would advise everyone that buying a car from father's hand can be a good purchase. But from mine... I'm not sure
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Old 09-13-16, 06:58 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by KristinaW
I think everything depends on who had been riding before.
As an example: my father is an excellent car driver and he has been driving for 40 years. And I'm not such good, and sometimes I can make some mistakes on the road. So I would advise everyone that buying a car from father's hand can be a good purchase. But from mine... I'm not sure
Bikes usage ≠ car usage. Mechanical wear of a car ≠ mechanical wear on bikes.

How long have you been riding/purchasing bikes?
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