Suntour bottom bracket removal without the proper tool
11-26-17, 10:39 PM
#26
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Just wait until you get one of those BBs!
What auction site?
.
Why do people not say "eBay?" People don't obscure Nashbar or Yellow Jersey, or Harris Cyclery or any other store or business. And then there's nowhere else to get the parts and stuff procured from eBay.
What auction site?
. Why do people not say "eBay?" People don't obscure Nashbar or Yellow Jersey, or Harris Cyclery or any other store or business. And then there's nowhere else to get the parts and stuff procured from eBay.
11-27-17, 07:41 AM
#27
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That question was not directly aimed at you- you just happened to type it... 
. Sorry if it came across that way.
On the same related note- have you ever used that Suntour VX bottom bracket on any of your bikes? One came on my 84 Schwinn Voyageur SP, and I bought another one from someone who was selling theirs from an 85 VSP. I have one on my 720 and the other I put on my TX700.
. Sorry if it came across that way. On the same related note- have you ever used that Suntour VX bottom bracket on any of your bikes? One came on my 84 Schwinn Voyageur SP, and I bought another one from someone who was selling theirs from an 85 VSP. I have one on my 720 and the other I put on my TX700.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
11-27-17, 08:34 AM
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If you have enough thread you may be able to tighten two lock nuts together then back cup off by turning the inner ring. I did this to install mine and it worked perfect. Also able to remove it the same way. I had greased parts though so YMMV. One side was not easy and still able to get it done. I should have taken pics. Two nuts on one side, two wrenches to tighten against each other.. Spun cup on and off.
11-27-17, 11:21 AM
#29
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If you have enough thread you may be able to tighten two lock nuts together then back cup off by turning the inner ring. I did this to install mine and it worked perfect. Also able to remove it the same way. I had greased parts though so YMMV. One side was not easy and still able to get it done. I should have taken pics. Two nuts on one side, two wrenches to tighten against each other.. Spun cup on and off.
11-27-17, 10:20 PM
#30
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Here's mine. If you don't have one I'd recommend trying snap ring pliers. You can find a set of two types (internal and external) with replacement tips of different sizes and angles at places like Harbor Freight and Northern Tool.
SunTour TA-230.JPG
SunTour TA-230.JPG
11-28-17, 05:21 PM
#31
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Did you order one from the eBay?
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
11-28-17, 05:56 PM
#32
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the eBay wanted 75 bucks for stamped steel! i refuse on principle - also because i'm definitely not going to use the tool again. i'm going to try a few more shops to see if someone has one; if not, another BF member has graciously offered to lend me one (with a deposit).
11-28-17, 06:01 PM
#33
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the eBay wanted 75 bucks for stamped steel! i refuse on principle - also because i'm definitely not going to use the tool again. i'm going to try a few more shops to see if someone has one; if not, another BF member has graciously offered to lend me one (with a deposit).
Two days ago they were $20 as mentioned in post #17!!
Now they're $35.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
11-28-17, 06:05 PM
#34
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being short and trying to find iconic frames is a game of patience, perseverance...and hoarding fancy small frames when you find them ;D.
11-28-17, 06:08 PM
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I think $35 is worth the cost of getting that Stumpy riding.
11-28-17, 06:42 PM
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If I really wanted this, I'd try offering him the original price of $14 that he was trying to get in the first place. He does have it listed with make an offer.
11-28-17, 07:12 PM
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The BB tool looks similar to the tool you'd use to remove the nut on an angle grinder. If the angle grinder tool has teeth close to the right width it may work. If close, maybe use a file.
I would leave the frame on it's side and put some thin oil or rusty bolt release on the threaded area and let if seep down for a few days.
If the angle grinder tool didn't work for me I'd cut the axle off flush maybe drill the axle in steps to get lower then use a flat piece of steel and a wrench. My next step would be to find a nut that fits just inside the bracket flange and have someone/friend tack weld it to the bracket and undo with a wrench. Helps that I have a MIG for things like this.
Dave
I would leave the frame on it's side and put some thin oil or rusty bolt release on the threaded area and let if seep down for a few days.
If the angle grinder tool didn't work for me I'd cut the axle off flush maybe drill the axle in steps to get lower then use a flat piece of steel and a wrench. My next step would be to find a nut that fits just inside the bracket flange and have someone/friend tack weld it to the bracket and undo with a wrench. Helps that I have a MIG for things like this.
Dave
11-28-17, 11:00 PM
#38
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The BB tool looks similar to the tool you'd use to remove the nut on an angle grinder. If the angle grinder tool has teeth close to the right width it may work. If close, maybe use a file.
I would leave the frame on it's side and put some thin oil or rusty bolt release on the threaded area and let if seep down for a few days.
If the angle grinder tool didn't work for me I'd cut the axle off flush maybe drill the axle in steps to get lower then use a flat piece of steel and a wrench. My next step would be to find a nut that fits just inside the bracket flange and have someone/friend tack weld it to the bracket and undo with a wrench. Helps that I have a MIG for things like this.
Dave
I would leave the frame on it's side and put some thin oil or rusty bolt release on the threaded area and let if seep down for a few days.
If the angle grinder tool didn't work for me I'd cut the axle off flush maybe drill the axle in steps to get lower then use a flat piece of steel and a wrench. My next step would be to find a nut that fits just inside the bracket flange and have someone/friend tack weld it to the bracket and undo with a wrench. Helps that I have a MIG for things like this.
Dave
I like your method of thinking with the axle and the tack welding. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a welder to tack on a nut for firm purchase.
11-29-17, 12:59 AM
#39
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Use your angle grinder to cut slots/notches in a socket that will fit over the axle and engage the notches in the cup.
11-29-17, 09:48 AM
#40
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Until now.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
11-29-17, 12:12 PM
#41
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It's not an indictment against anyone that does it- because I'd guess it's for the EXACT reason that Josh said- it seems to be what people do... for some reason.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
11-29-17, 12:20 PM
#42
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Actually, now they're $41, if you count the shipping. Kind of a dick move by the seller to raise the price after selling one of the three he had for sale. He's posted and relisted this ad several times this fall. Other ads with higher priced ones sit there for years. There's not exactly a big market for an obsolete tool only needed for an obsolete part.
If I really wanted this, I'd try offering him the original price of $14 that he was trying to get in the first place. He does have it listed with make an offer.
If I really wanted this, I'd try offering him the original price of $14 that he was trying to get in the first place. He does have it listed with make an offer.
lol! One man's "obsolete" tool is another man's "law of supply and demand"!
Air hammer, FTW!
11-29-17, 10:18 PM
#43
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
11-30-17, 12:25 AM
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You could make a tool really quick for just a couple of $$ in a couple of minutes, Just stop buy Lowes or HD and buy a piece of aluminum or steel flat stock, a couple of bolts that fit in the slots of the BB and a couple of nuts that fit the bolts.
Drill holes in the flat stock that match the spacing of the slots in the BB, install the bolts. It is an easy way to make a really strong pin spanner to be able to take the BB out even if it is a bit stuck (which I kind of expect since the punch didn't do much).
Drill holes in the flat stock that match the spacing of the slots in the BB, install the bolts. It is an easy way to make a really strong pin spanner to be able to take the BB out even if it is a bit stuck (which I kind of expect since the punch didn't do much).
