Crushed Campy dropout: How would you fix it?
11-19-19, 09:27 AM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,827 Times
in
1,995 Posts
Not the shipping company's fault. the Painter/packer.
No useful explanation as to why original packaging was lost.
I even included tapered wood pins to fill the head tube ends, fortunately no damage to that on the way back.
Lesson learned, face to face is best.
11-19-19, 10:03 AM
#53
Senior Member
Using very small directed flame to heat the back of drop out but not glowing hot, leaving adjusters in place... I would be incrementally squeezing the bulging sides of the dropout( protecting itfrom teeth) in the jaws of a big metalworking vise to original width, but leaving the dropouts in the vise as I worked, spreading the drop out open slowly. No matter which method I used to spread it, I would perform the two actions in conjunction.
I am a fan of tapping a fine tapering cold chisel or elelephant sized screwdriver into the mouth of the dropout. (Shaft of tool in line with chainstay.)
Good Luck! Eric
I am a fan of tapping a fine tapering cold chisel or elelephant sized screwdriver into the mouth of the dropout. (Shaft of tool in line with chainstay.)
Good Luck! Eric
11-19-19, 12:33 PM
#54
PM me your cotters
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ATL
Posts: 3,241
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1137 Post(s)
Liked 588 Times
in
420 Posts
They always say this, UPS and FedEx alike. Haven't had a case of damage with USPS yet. Sometimes they'll even claim insufficient packaging even when packed by a professional shop. But I will say, I hear BikeFlights and ShipBikes will refund in full even if the carrier rejects the claim as long as it was packed by a reputable shop.
Sucks on the 'not as described' claim. That's a permanent strike against the seller and I've only ever seen eBay force a full refund to the buyer, including shipping fees incurred both ways. If they just file a claim for any other option, including 'shipping damage', you can still settle amicably with the buyer without hurting anyone's reputation. Using "not as described" is basically bringing a nuke to a knife fight.
Sucks on the 'not as described' claim. That's a permanent strike against the seller and I've only ever seen eBay force a full refund to the buyer, including shipping fees incurred both ways. If they just file a claim for any other option, including 'shipping damage', you can still settle amicably with the buyer without hurting anyone's reputation. Using "not as described" is basically bringing a nuke to a knife fight.
11-19-19, 01:03 PM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,177
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked 71 Times
in
51 Posts
Who you calling old? 
I resemble that remark!
@TenGrainBread has the wisest advice. You could probably cold set it back, but thatsa lotta bend in a very small region.
8" Crescent wrench is typically my tool of choice to open/close horizontal dropouts when they need just a bit. Note: works for 7 o'clock (Campy style) dropouts - the wrench hanger hole catches on the derailleur stop, which is hidden in this picture.
To open the hanger, a lot of tools would work, but an 8" Crescent handle is just about the right size and leverage. Note that the wrench I have above isn't a Crescent brand, but I've found that that the hole to hang the tool is about the same on all of them.
I resemble that remark!@TenGrainBread has the wisest advice. You could probably cold set it back, but thatsa lotta bend in a very small region.
8" Crescent wrench is typically my tool of choice to open/close horizontal dropouts when they need just a bit. Note: works for 7 o'clock (Campy style) dropouts - the wrench hanger hole catches on the derailleur stop, which is hidden in this picture.
To open the hanger, a lot of tools would work, but an 8" Crescent handle is just about the right size and leverage. Note that the wrench I have above isn't a Crescent brand, but I've found that that the hole to hang the tool is about the same on all of them.
11-19-19, 01:08 PM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,177
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked 71 Times
in
51 Posts
I'll second that--put a derailleur bolt in the hanger, too. You're hired! Seriously, the shipping casualty among my customers that bothered me the most was the guy who packed an immaculate Merckx 7-11 team frame without a rear axle in it; I was able to bend it back out with minimal damage but it never should've happened. Repeat, shippers--packing axle, old dead rear hub, the weight won't increase the freight!
11-19-19, 01:16 PM
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,031
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4509 Post(s)
Liked 6,374 Times
in
3,666 Posts
And while we're at it, either remove the dam dropout screws or screw them in all the way, especially if they are original.
If they can't be then say so and it can be worked out BEFORE they become a bigger problem.
If they can't be then say so and it can be worked out BEFORE they become a bigger problem.
Likes For merziac:
11-19-19, 01:55 PM
#58
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 13,954
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 413 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 109 Times
in
78 Posts
They always say this, UPS and FedEx alike. Haven't had a case of damage with USPS yet. Sometimes they'll even claim insufficient packaging even when packed by a professional shop. But I will say, I hear BikeFlights and ShipBikes will refund in full even if the carrier rejects the claim as long as it was packed by a reputable shop.
Sucks on the 'not as described' claim. That's a permanent strike against the seller and I've only ever seen eBay force a full refund to the buyer, including shipping fees incurred both ways. If they just file a claim for any other option, including 'shipping damage', you can still settle amicably with the buyer without hurting anyone's reputation. Using "not as described" is basically bringing a nuke to a knife fight.
Sucks on the 'not as described' claim. That's a permanent strike against the seller and I've only ever seen eBay force a full refund to the buyer, including shipping fees incurred both ways. If they just file a claim for any other option, including 'shipping damage', you can still settle amicably with the buyer without hurting anyone's reputation. Using "not as described" is basically bringing a nuke to a knife fight.
11-19-19, 02:01 PM
#59
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 13,954
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 413 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 109 Times
in
78 Posts
I don't bother to block them anymore. Again, I'll update my 'how to pack a frame 101' thread with my revised technique.
Tip 1: Do NOT position the frames chain stays along the boxes bottom. Angle the frame so the down tube is along the bottom. This moves the dropouts up in the box preventing crush damage a pictured in this thread. It doesn't prevent the stays from being squeezed together but there's a free work around for that. Also, with the down tube along the bottom, box sizes are slightly smaller. If a frames borderline on L+G this saves a few inches.
Likes For miamijim:
11-19-19, 04:02 PM
#60
PM me your cotters
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ATL
Posts: 3,241
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1137 Post(s)
Liked 588 Times
in
420 Posts
I've modified the method you posted quite a bit though. I definitely keep trashed high-flange rear hubs, got a whole box full from any frame or wheelset I scrap, even if they're in horrible shape. I normally use solid-axle hubs but also snag and keep ratty QRs for same reason. You can drill plastic dropout/fork-end savers and run an old QR through them to keep them in place without taping.
I just shipped a frame and fork today and used the highest 1960s bullet-hole steel high-flange hub ever, taller than any other high-flange I know. Some high-flange hubs are tall enough they'll act as a standoff for the hanger. This Sturmey hub I used lifted the hanger about 3/4" off the box floor. But I took it a step farther, since I have access to 1" and 3" dense packing foam sheets.
After installing old high flange hub, then foam-wrapping the chainstays, I'll cut a length of 3" foam just wide enough to squeeze between the hub flanges, long enough to go 2" past the hub and BB shell. I lay that piece of foam into it in that channel, then tape it to the stays. This gives the frame about 2" of rise across. I also lay a 1" sheet in the bottom of the box in case of bottom impact.
I hadn't thought about laying the downtube along the bottom. Lately, I've been foam-wrapping the fork and zip-tying it to a foam-wrapped TT or DT with a spacer in it. Then I take a box that'll fit in the front of the box, channel it so the head tube will fit into it. The box acts as a support or riser. I've been using a lot of boxes-in-boxes as isolators for things I don't want moving around.
Either way, your 101 thread is great.
