Convert Fixed to single speed PLEASE HELP
#1
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Convert Fixed to single speed PLEASE HELP
Hi new to the forum, pretty novice at cycling as well. Essentially, need help because COVID got people stealing bikes left and right and fell victim. My pure fix w/ the flip flop hub was taken at home, but a buddy gave me his fixed gear, but it's not freewheel! How do I convert my back wheel/hub to make it freewheel? (I bike for commute mainly and casual riding wth baby daughter) please help! I also want to put disk brakes on her, if anyone would be so kind? Thanks in advance!
Last edited by cb400bill; 04-29-20 at 03:47 AM.
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Hi new to the forum, pretty novice at cycling as well. Essentially, need help because COVID got people stealing bikes left and right and fell victim. My pure fix w/ the flip flop hub was taken at home, but a buddy gave me his fixed gear, but it's not freewheel! How do I convert my back wheel/hub to make it freewheel? (I bike for commute mainly and casual riding wth baby daughter) please help! I also want to put disk brakes on her, if anyone would be so kind? Thanks in advance!
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And you can't feasibly install discs on a frame and fork that was never designed for them.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the thread surface width (on the hub) for fg cog & freewheel are different? I do notice that flip flops aren't the same on both side, the fg side has a 2 tiered thread size- the cog thread (inner) is bigger in diameter (same as the freewheel) while the lock nut (outer) one's smaller? I assume the freewheel won't sit in nicely if you install it on the fg side, only abt half of it's thread will contact the hub thread since fg cog is only abt half the width of a freewheel? Or is it ok to have it like that?
Last edited by acir71; 04-29-20 at 09:41 AM.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the thread surface width (on the hub) for fg cog & freewheel are different? I do notice that flip flops aren't the same on both side, the fg side has a 2 tiered thread size- the cog thread (inner) is bigger in diameter (same as the freewheel) while the lock nut (outer) one's smaller? I assume the freewheel won't sit in nicely if you install it on the fg side, only abt half of it's thread will contact the hub thread since fg cog is only abt half the width of a freewheel? Or is it ok to have it like that?
This is why "fixed" "fixed" hubs are best. Both sides have the double threads allowing a lock ring. One can then run any cog/freewheel combo they choose.
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#8
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Hoping this reaches all contributors on this thread but thanks to all! So based on your replies, are these pieces and tools (i can't upload a pic) all the things I would need to purchase?
How would know which sizes or they all pretty much standard?
my chain looks little worn too, I heard that it's highly advised to change that during this process, advice?
- Singlespeed or track wheel
- Cog of appropriate size
- Lockring
- Lockring wrench
- Chain whip or chain pliers
- Grease
- 15mm Socket Wrench
How would know which sizes or they all pretty much standard?
my chain looks little worn too, I heard that it's highly advised to change that during this process, advice?
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If you are going to have a freewheel, I would recommend front and back brakes. If you are going to keep it fixed, you really just need the front, although having both doesn't hurt.
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Hoping this reaches all contributors on this thread but thanks to all! So based on your replies, are these pieces and tools (i can't upload a pic) all the things I would need to purchase?
How would know which sizes or they all pretty much standard?
my chain looks little worn too, I heard that it's highly advised to change that during this process, advice?
- Singlespeed or track wheel
- Cog of appropriate size
- Lockring
- Lockring wrench
- Chain whip or chain pliers
- Grease
- 15mm Socket Wrench
How would know which sizes or they all pretty much standard?
my chain looks little worn too, I heard that it's highly advised to change that during this process, advice?
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Yes: do.
Some people ride without brakes, relying on skidding. Not having brakes is illegal in some jurisdictions. It will be a factor in any liability decision following an accident. Brakes are designed to decelerate the bike without breaking traction, and without sacrificing rubber from the tyre. Better to have brakes and never use them, than not have brakes and find that you need them one day.
A front brake is considerably more effective than a back brake. This is because the act of braking transfers more weight (and therefore traction) to the front tyre, meaning the front tyre gains grip and the rear tyre loses it.
You can therefore ride fairly safely with just a front brake, relying on back pressure on the pedals to slow the rear wheel. One associated risk is that in bad conditions (wet oily road, grit, mud, gravel, ice) if you lock your front wheel, you will certainly fall off. If you have a back brake and you lock your back wheel you still have a good chance of regaining control.
The front brake is easy to install and set up. A simple side pull calliper brake is good enough for most purposes.
The rear brake, although useful, is more problematic. If you change your sprocket size, you will need to position the rear wheel slightly further forward or backward to keep the chain tension. You can probably change by 2 teeth before you find that the rear brake blocks are in danger of catching the tyre or spokes — either of which would be a Bad Thing. You can of course add or remove links to the chain, which is a 5 minute job, but not something you'd want to do if you flipped the back wheel round to change ratios at the road side on a long ride.
Personally, I have front and rear calliper rim brakes on my fixed, and typically ride for hours without touching the brakes — but I know they're there if I need them. I never skid deliberately, but I try to use the drive train to control my speed. I know that I would ride faster in some circumstances if I was willing to use the brakes, but this is a game I play for my own satisfaction. The brakes are for emergencies or when all else fails: long steep descents and the like.
So, definitely fit a front brake, and probably fit a rear brake. Side pull calliper rim brakes are the easiest option, and should be easy to fit to any frame designed for road use.
Some people ride without brakes, relying on skidding. Not having brakes is illegal in some jurisdictions. It will be a factor in any liability decision following an accident. Brakes are designed to decelerate the bike without breaking traction, and without sacrificing rubber from the tyre. Better to have brakes and never use them, than not have brakes and find that you need them one day.
A front brake is considerably more effective than a back brake. This is because the act of braking transfers more weight (and therefore traction) to the front tyre, meaning the front tyre gains grip and the rear tyre loses it.
You can therefore ride fairly safely with just a front brake, relying on back pressure on the pedals to slow the rear wheel. One associated risk is that in bad conditions (wet oily road, grit, mud, gravel, ice) if you lock your front wheel, you will certainly fall off. If you have a back brake and you lock your back wheel you still have a good chance of regaining control.
The front brake is easy to install and set up. A simple side pull calliper brake is good enough for most purposes.
The rear brake, although useful, is more problematic. If you change your sprocket size, you will need to position the rear wheel slightly further forward or backward to keep the chain tension. You can probably change by 2 teeth before you find that the rear brake blocks are in danger of catching the tyre or spokes — either of which would be a Bad Thing. You can of course add or remove links to the chain, which is a 5 minute job, but not something you'd want to do if you flipped the back wheel round to change ratios at the road side on a long ride.
Personally, I have front and rear calliper rim brakes on my fixed, and typically ride for hours without touching the brakes — but I know they're there if I need them. I never skid deliberately, but I try to use the drive train to control my speed. I know that I would ride faster in some circumstances if I was willing to use the brakes, but this is a game I play for my own satisfaction. The brakes are for emergencies or when all else fails: long steep descents and the like.
So, definitely fit a front brake, and probably fit a rear brake. Side pull calliper rim brakes are the easiest option, and should be easy to fit to any frame designed for road use.
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Hoping this reaches all contributors on this thread but thanks to all! So based on your replies, are these pieces and tools (i can't upload a pic) all the things I would need to purchase?
How would know which sizes or they all pretty much standard?
my chain looks little worn too, I heard that it's highly advised to change that during this process, advice?
- Singlespeed or track wheel
- Cog of appropriate size
- Lockring
- Lockring wrench
- Chain whip or chain pliers
- Grease
- 15mm Socket Wrench
How would know which sizes or they all pretty much standard?
my chain looks little worn too, I heard that it's highly advised to change that during this process, advice?
Buy the freewheel from them. A Shimano will probably be less than $25. They might not even charge to take the old cog off and install. But don't give them a hard time if they do, they are suffering during these times.
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The right tools are an investment. Bikes are not complicated machines to work on, unless you buy the complicated parts the market tells us we need (hydraulic brakes, etc.)
#15
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sorry for the confusion, i'd like to reiterate, I'm noobie. I inherited a fixie, no brakes, and I want to change to freewheel w/ disk brakes. And I basically have zero tools to complete the job, so i'm also on the market for the proper tools (which I'm unsure which ones to buy)
#16
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Short term less expensive because at the end of it, you have the result, but have gained no knowledge, and no tools, so next time you'll have to pay as well.
The right tools are an investment. Bikes are not complicated machines to work on, unless you buy the complicated parts the market tells us we need (hydraulic brakes, etc.)
The right tools are an investment. Bikes are not complicated machines to work on, unless you buy the complicated parts the market tells us we need (hydraulic brakes, etc.)
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sorry for the confusion, i'd like to reiterate, I'm noobie. I inherited a fixie, no brakes, and I want to change to freewheel w/ disk brakes. And I basically have zero tools to complete the job, so i'm also on the market for the proper tools (which I'm unsure which ones to buy)
So that leaves conventional caliper brakes. And whether those are viable is based upon which frame you have. Some fixed-gear frames aren't conducive to adding brakes and some will accommodate brakes but only with some drilling or other preparation. Then there is the issue of brake reach. It really is more complicated than just "adding brakes".
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This is why I joined the forums, I'm trying to gain at least a tidy bit of knowledge to up my skills so in the future I wont need to run to the shop, any luck you can share me on which tools I need to purchase as well? Thanks in advance everyone for all the help again!
Everyone needs a big, a medium and a small adjustable wrench (spanner) but should not use them by default. If you have a proper spanner available int he right size, use it.
Normal pliers, needle nose pliers, and good wire cutters (you can get specific ones for brake cable inners).
A chain whip in the right width for the sprocket. (1/8" or 3/32" for example.) One that is "too wide" will fit a narrower sprocket, of course. A chain whip is sometimes called a "freewheel turner" at least in adverts on Amazon.
If you have a freewheel, a compatible freewheel removal tool.
A C spanner for removing the lock ring. You will need the right size. A C spanner is sort of hook shaped with a tab at the end that engages with a notch in the lock ring.
A decent set of Allen keys.
In addition to a set of Allen keys for the workshop, something like this has many uses out on the road. They come with 3 sizes that you most commonly use.
A pedal wrench, if your pedals have flats where they screw in. Some only have Allen sockets on the blind side. A pedal wrench is a slim spanner of the right size to fit the flats.
A chain tool which can be used for splitting and re-joining chains, and freeing stiff links.
I'm in the UK and can find most of these things at Halfords, or local bike shops. They are also available easily on Amazon. One nice brand for bike tools, although slightly expensive, is Park Tool.
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#19
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It might make more sense to have the shop switch the cog for a free wheel and then when the freewheel needs replacing, buy the freewheel removal tool, which OP might get more use out of.
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What is it about this group that everybody has to complicate a very simple task?
OP said he has flip-flop hub, so...
The only tools he needs to convert his bike to singlespeed are a 15mm wrench to loosen the tracknuts so he can take his wheel off, and his fingers to screw the FW onto the other side of the hub before he flips the wheel to put it back on
OP said he has flip-flop hub, so...
The only tools he needs to convert his bike to singlespeed are a 15mm wrench to loosen the tracknuts so he can take his wheel off, and his fingers to screw the FW onto the other side of the hub before he flips the wheel to put it back on
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What is it about this group that everybody has to complicate a very simple task?
OP said he has flip-flop hub, so...
The only tools he needs to convert his bike to singlespeed are a 15mm wrench to loosen the tracknuts so he can take his wheel off, and his fingers to screw the FW onto the other side of the hub before he flips the wheel to put it back on
OP said he has flip-flop hub, so...
The only tools he needs to convert his bike to singlespeed are a 15mm wrench to loosen the tracknuts so he can take his wheel off, and his fingers to screw the FW onto the other side of the hub before he flips the wheel to put it back on
Also needs to purchase and install brakes.
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sorry for the confusion, i'd like to reiterate, I'm noobie. I inherited a fixie, no brakes, and I want to change to freewheel w/ disk brakes. And I basically have zero tools to complete the job, so i'm also on the market for the proper tools (which I'm unsure which ones to buy)
YouTube KevCentral, he reviews Walmart and other affordable bikes. Find one in your price range and purchase. For what you are looking for a $100 coaster brake beach cruiser would work fine and be less expensive than the upgrades + tools.
Good luck.
Last edited by stevel610; 05-03-20 at 10:07 AM.
#23
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Sorry fellas had a hectic weekend. Based on everyone's replies (which I'm so grateful for), seems like the more sensible thing might just go to the bike shop and have them convert it for me, rather than spending on the pieces and all the tools
#24
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You might have some trouble finding a bike shop currently open in your area amid coronavirus.
#25
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