Tires and fixing flats on unsupported rides
#26
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I used Marathon and Marathon Plus for many years while commuting and agree they are the best for flat resistance. However, they ride like bricks. When commuting, time was a major factor as I had to catch a train and a flat was not good. Nowadays, retired, I have a little more time and use a slightly more supple tire, Schwalbe Marathon Supreme. Much lighter, more supple and very good flat protection. They are rather pricey.
#27
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once you understand the concept, changing tires is a lot easier.
oh, Pedro's tire levers are highly recommended, stronger than most,and won't break with a hard tire and rim combo....yes different rims will be harder than others with same tire
Also , removing a tire a few times often makes it easier than when new--so practicing helps in this regard OP
ive used gatorskins a long time, but perhaps you need a tougher tire?
80 bridges? Holy bananas!
try not to ride too far over, more debris field, but perhaps a plus tire would be appropriate, only you would know if you can ride on them, you didn't say but I assume a road bike?
oh, a small pair of needle nose to pull out embedded car tire wires uber important, essential. Close inspection of a tire for hard to see wires by eye and feel essential or another flat will occur.
good luck
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#29
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Back to 80 eighty bridges, if it were me, I'd seriously consider a tougher tire, given how much tire wires will be around.
And regular close inspections with reading glasses, with that many bridges and depending on how close you ride to wall, chances are lots of embedded wires.
only you'll know how it is when you're there debris wise
And regular close inspections with reading glasses, with that many bridges and depending on how close you ride to wall, chances are lots of embedded wires.
only you'll know how it is when you're there debris wise
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I just did a google search, 42 bridges. Not sure how my brain doubled it, we rode a ferry from Key West to Marco Island, so we only went across each bridge once. Maybe my brain was assuming you would do an out and back, thus each bridge twice?
I only had one flat, that was in Big Cyprus, my touring partner had none. I had 40mm wide Schwalbe Marathon (with greenguard) tires. That is the only tour where I have had a puncture. So, I do not think you need to worry that much about flats. It is not like the thorns in the desert southwest. I have never ridden Gattorskins, so I have no opinion on them.
My route was on this map, and yes it is pretty obvious where the ferry ride was on the map.
I only had one flat, that was in Big Cyprus, my touring partner had none. I had 40mm wide Schwalbe Marathon (with greenguard) tires. That is the only tour where I have had a puncture. So, I do not think you need to worry that much about flats. It is not like the thorns in the desert southwest. I have never ridden Gattorskins, so I have no opinion on them.
My route was on this map, and yes it is pretty obvious where the ferry ride was on the map.
#31
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Long ago, not in another galaxy, but another century, I had little tire cleaners. They mounted on the fork crown and the rear brake bridge. they were a piece of wire for the mounting, then two pieces of vinyl plastic tubing, then a second piece of wire that approximated the contour of the tire. the idea was that an object would be swept off the tire before it could penetrate all the way.
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#33
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David, The reason you haven't got any flats on a tour is we somehow got your share. On one long tour we got 13 of them. I'd be more than glad to give your share back
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Having tires you can replace under the worst circumstances, which is when/where flats tend to happen, is pretty desirable.
I like to start big rides on new tires. The last thing I want is some microscopic piece of glass or wire that's been in there for weeks or months to cause a flat. I've had good luck with that strategy. An ounce of prevention.
The advice from others above, to be practiced at fixing flats, is worth its weight. Related, be very confident in your tools, particularly the pump. Also worth its weight.
I rode from Jupiter to Key West and back a few years ago, on Primo Comets which are known as flat magnets, without a single issue. OTOH I had four flats in two days on the same tires, in rural Kentucky. Who knows what your trip will be like.
I like to start big rides on new tires. The last thing I want is some microscopic piece of glass or wire that's been in there for weeks or months to cause a flat. I've had good luck with that strategy. An ounce of prevention.
The advice from others above, to be practiced at fixing flats, is worth its weight. Related, be very confident in your tools, particularly the pump. Also worth its weight.
I rode from Jupiter to Key West and back a few years ago, on Primo Comets which are known as flat magnets, without a single issue. OTOH I had four flats in two days on the same tires, in rural Kentucky. Who knows what your trip will be like.
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My wife had a flat shortly after riding through this flock of sheep. It was a pretty crappy job fixing it. Fortunately, I carry nitrile gloves in my tool kit.
Last edited by Doug64; 11-11-20 at 12:06 AM.
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#36
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I would like to thank you for performing my share of flat repairs too, if I ever meet you in a campground somewhere I owe you and your wife a couple of beers. And maybe a couple patch kits.
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At the risk of jinxing myself, I've toured about 12000km, and have never had a flat. Firstly on Marathon HS420, then Mondials, both tubed with slime in the tubes. Switched to Surly ETs, tubeless. Latest iteration is Schwalble Moto-x, tubeless. I'm a big believer in high volume tyres because they can roll over most things, like rocks and curbs etc. I figure the last thing I want to do is fix a flat , I'm not out there to beat any speed records, so resistance isn't high on the list of requirements.
Anyway, if you are running tubes, slime is a good option. It'll fix most smaller punctures. Carry some tissues and and some alcohol wipes to get any slime off the outside of the tubes in the event you get a puncture, the glue won't stick to slime! Tubeless I've found using a two sealant system works. Initially I add a small amount of latex based sealant like Stans to seal any micro porosity in the tyre and seal it to the rim. Leave that in for a couple of weeks. Then I add a non latex based like Finish Line so I know I don't have to worry about it drying out/
Anyway, if you are running tubes, slime is a good option. It'll fix most smaller punctures. Carry some tissues and and some alcohol wipes to get any slime off the outside of the tubes in the event you get a puncture, the glue won't stick to slime! Tubeless I've found using a two sealant system works. Initially I add a small amount of latex based sealant like Stans to seal any micro porosity in the tyre and seal it to the rim. Leave that in for a couple of weeks. Then I add a non latex based like Finish Line so I know I don't have to worry about it drying out/
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#40
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and she had a pinch flat right, from running over that lazy sob laying right in the middle of the road?
it really is a cute photo, and just so funny how they are nonchalantly looking at you two riding by.
#41
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His selfishly taking on our quota is very much appreciated. Please continue.
#42
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Did those 1970s-1980s tire cleaners actually work?
#43
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We called them tire savers. I just did a google search to look for a photo, found these.
https://www.ebay.com/i/143447988267
Keep in mind that in the 70s, we were riding on crappy clincher tires, size 27 inch. Did not take much pressure and had a lot of rolling friction. Those clinchers had no flat protection, other than heavy cord and fairly thick rubber.
Because the clinchers were not very good, some bikers, myself included, tried tubular tires (also called sewups) which had a lot less rolling friction. And the tubular tires of that day had zero flat protection and were built mostly for racers. So, flats were common and flat repairs were a major hassle. So, if you could do anything to reduce flats on tubular tires, you did.
The theory on those tire savers is that they had minimal friction, but could knock bits of broken glass off of a tire before the glass was firmly imbedded in the tire.
I used them for a while, not sure if they saved me from any flats, but even if it only saved you from 1 out of 10, with tubular tires it was worth it. But when I added fenders to my bike, the tire savers came off.
I have not ridden tubular tires for decades but still have the wheels that I had back in the 80s.
https://www.ebay.com/i/143447988267
Keep in mind that in the 70s, we were riding on crappy clincher tires, size 27 inch. Did not take much pressure and had a lot of rolling friction. Those clinchers had no flat protection, other than heavy cord and fairly thick rubber.
Because the clinchers were not very good, some bikers, myself included, tried tubular tires (also called sewups) which had a lot less rolling friction. And the tubular tires of that day had zero flat protection and were built mostly for racers. So, flats were common and flat repairs were a major hassle. So, if you could do anything to reduce flats on tubular tires, you did.
The theory on those tire savers is that they had minimal friction, but could knock bits of broken glass off of a tire before the glass was firmly imbedded in the tire.
I used them for a while, not sure if they saved me from any flats, but even if it only saved you from 1 out of 10, with tubular tires it was worth it. But when I added fenders to my bike, the tire savers came off.
I have not ridden tubular tires for decades but still have the wheels that I had back in the 80s.
#44
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I have a clear memory or riding once with a friend who I rarely see, lives in a different city, and he still rides tubulars a bit even now. On this ride, behind him, I noticed him sometimes reaching back and with a gloved hand (it was fall, very cold) rubbing his fleece glove on the rear tire, essentially doing the same thing as you describe. Took me a minute to figure out what on earth he was doing, but that was it.
#45
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I have a clear memory or riding once with a friend who I rarely see, lives in a different city, and he still rides tubulars a bit even now. On this ride, behind him, I noticed him sometimes reaching back and with a gloved hand (it was fall, very cold) rubbing his fleece glove on the rear tire, essentially doing the same thing as you describe. Took me a minute to figure out what on earth he was doing, but that was it.
#46
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I didn't see anyone answer what seemed to be a serious question. If so: Yes, it's statistically more likely to collect punctures on the rear tire than the front; it also happens on motorcycles and cars. What happens is that a nail, screw, staple, even a shard of glass, will be lying flat on the road. The front tire rolls over it harmlessly but picks it up and flicks it into the air, where it often comes down sharp side up as the rear tire goes over it.
#47
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#48
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I didn't see anyone answer what seemed to be a serious question. If so: Yes, it's statistically more likely to collect punctures on the rear tire than the front; it also happens on motorcycles and cars. What happens is that a nail, screw, staple, even a shard of glass, will be lying flat on the road. The front tire rolls over it harmlessly but picks it up and flicks it into the air, where it often comes down sharp side up as the rear tire goes over it.
I think I've had more rear flats than front, but that could be just because they are more annoying to fix on the road thus more memorable. I have no data, and even if i did that's only one person and really just another story.
Stories are cool, and even convincing, but not because they are correct. Good data and good statistical analysis is boring AF, often not convincing to the general public, and more often actually correct.
#49
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More weight and torque at the back? I doubt it is "flinging"that is the cause of it.
#50
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I've twice had new schwalbe rear tires get skewered by a long nail and a flat sharp long piece of metal, both times the long objects piercing the rears in an angle that clearly wasn't from just running over a flat object, so I believe in the "flick up" theory.
no slow motion video so no proof, but the weird penetration angle certainly seemed that way
no slow motion video so no proof, but the weird penetration angle certainly seemed that way