C&V cleaning challenge
#1
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C&V cleaning challenge
Recently, I bought a Shimano Deerhead rear derailleur from cog_nate , priced very attractively because it was a dirty mess. Here’s what it looked like upon arrival:
I figured this was a good challenge for my ultrasonic cleaner:
I just tossed the whole RD into the tank and let it rip for two 30-minute cycles. Here’s what it looked like when it came out:
Certainly better, but still needing more Ultrasonic time. I disassembled the pulleys and gave it all another couple of 30-min rounds of cleaning:
I then reassembled, lubricated any of the threaded parts and sprayed some WD 40 into the spring housing to displace water, and ended up touching up the faceplate with some black paint as the soaking removed that finish. Then a final polish with some Simichrome:
It’s not NOS but more than acceptable to my standards, perfect in terms of functionality, and one of my favorite high-capacity friction RDs. Thanks, Nate!
I figured this was a good challenge for my ultrasonic cleaner:
I just tossed the whole RD into the tank and let it rip for two 30-minute cycles. Here’s what it looked like when it came out:
Certainly better, but still needing more Ultrasonic time. I disassembled the pulleys and gave it all another couple of 30-min rounds of cleaning:
I then reassembled, lubricated any of the threaded parts and sprayed some WD 40 into the spring housing to displace water, and ended up touching up the faceplate with some black paint as the soaking removed that finish. Then a final polish with some Simichrome:
It’s not NOS but more than acceptable to my standards, perfect in terms of functionality, and one of my favorite high-capacity friction RDs. Thanks, Nate!
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#2
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I've done the same thing many times. It's amazing what a good ultrasonic cleaner can accomplish. My only suggestion is to add a small toaster oven to the work bench for drying after cleaning. Set at 200F the water evaporates away in a few minutes and I've never had an issue with the attached plastic parts. If the plastic bits are loose, just leave on top of the oven.
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#3
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One swipe of the index finger confirmed this one would clean up nicely:
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You don't have hot water radiators in your shop? I have a magnetic tray sitting on mine. After a soak and a rinse that's where small stuff goes to dry out.
#7
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I need more proof, Neal. Can I send ya a couple Mountechs just to verify your process?
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I have used a Dawn solution recently
w/ ultrasonic and a minor amount of brush work. But in the 280 second range- with some heat.
A bottom bracket, pedals- all taken apart- worked well.
I have a cavalcade of parts that need the effort.
I misplaced my Suntour freewheel remover- those will go mineral spirits only- not ultrasonic.
I have a number of drivetrains to clean,
the patients pile up !
a bunch of Campagnolo pedals- looked at eBay for dust caps- looks like someone is reproducing some out of Italy.
w/ ultrasonic and a minor amount of brush work. But in the 280 second range- with some heat.
A bottom bracket, pedals- all taken apart- worked well.
I have a cavalcade of parts that need the effort.
I misplaced my Suntour freewheel remover- those will go mineral spirits only- not ultrasonic.
I have a number of drivetrains to clean,
the patients pile up !
a bunch of Campagnolo pedals- looked at eBay for dust caps- looks like someone is reproducing some out of Italy.
#9
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I'm a little surprised that more people don't spend the time to clean up gunky old freewheels before listing them. A clean and fresh-looking FW certainly makes a better impression on me.
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Cassettes are even easier, don't have to worry about water getting in the bearings.
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That's how I clean metal stuff. Mineral spirits and gunky parts in a small mason jar (with the lid on), jar in water in the ultrasonic cleaner.
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Love my Ultrasonic cleaner
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Got this Victory derailleur from Aerogut.
These are pretty easy to overhaul. Unlike older Campy units, these don't have a removable grub screw. So you sorta put it together a little loose before winding it and tightening it down. And they're easy to polish, too.
These are pretty easy to overhaul. Unlike older Campy units, these don't have a removable grub screw. So you sorta put it together a little loose before winding it and tightening it down. And they're easy to polish, too.
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I get much satisfaction from restoring a well done RD, or well done anything I suppose. I recently donated 5 bikes to a local co-op then rummaged in their bins a bit. Got a pair of MKS pedals and a Cyclone Mk II GT that looked like the OPs RD. Pulleys barely turned, body spring pretty stiff, very aged grime all over it. I disassembled it and used OMS on everything, especially the body tension spring. I even stepped aside to fabricate a wee wrench to install n remove that weird pulley axel nut on the guide pulley. Only time will tell how it works on a badly stuck one.
This Cyclone RD is going onto my winter project Fuji TS III so I won't know how it all works out until spring, but I high expectations.
Oh, I also grabbed two Blackburn type racks, F and R from their scrap pile. Bit of straightening and paint and they'll be back in service. F goes on my Schwinn Voyageur with the fork mid mounts.
This Cyclone RD is going onto my winter project Fuji TS III so I won't know how it all works out until spring, but I high expectations.
Oh, I also grabbed two Blackburn type racks, F and R from their scrap pile. Bit of straightening and paint and they'll be back in service. F goes on my Schwinn Voyageur with the fork mid mounts.