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Removing selected gears from a cassette

Old 01-13-20, 07:41 PM
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uratex1
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Removing selected gears from a cassette

Hi! Is it possible to remove selected gears from a 10/11 speed cassette to fit into an 8 speed shifter? I'm broke af and can only make tiny upgrades from time to time. I just started cycling a few weeks ago and my knowledge with the technical side is kind of limited.

I'm planning to change my hubs first since it is a freewheel type and then change the cassette like I have said earlier. And when I have earned enough money, probably upgrade the groupset to an m6000 or Sram SX.

Any tips and comments will be appreciated as long as it's not hostile

edit: How does the alivio groupset perform compared to the deore m6000?
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Old 01-13-20, 07:45 PM
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No, the spacing between the cogs is different. It will not line up properly when you shift.
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Old 01-13-20, 08:15 PM
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Depends. Shimano 8-9-10 freehubs are the same as is the spacing. 11 is different. Campy is another story altogether. You need to be more specific on what it is you have exactly, and what it is you're trying to do.
Are you trying to do individual cogs on the cassette?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
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Old 01-14-20, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Depends. Shimano 8-9-10 freehubs are the same as is the spacing. 11 is different. Campy is another story altogether. You need to be more specific on what it is you have exactly, and what it is you're trying to do.
Are you trying to do individual cogs on the cassette?
well, I currently have a thread-on freewheel and I want to upgrade it into a freehub and cassette thingy. Now, the problem is that I don't have any money to do an all-in groupset upgrade, maybe unless, if it is an alivio groupset (i'm honestly targeting the m6000 groupset). I was thinking if I can upgrade the hubs first and then use a 10 speed cassette and remove two gears so I can turn it into an 8 speed temporarily so my shifters and derailleurs would fit.


It's a pretty wild idea and I have no clue if it will even work.
Are the cassette gears riveted on and is impossible to remove?
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Old 01-14-20, 04:27 AM
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Why don't you just mount 8 speed cassette on the freehub? 8, 9 an 10 speed cassettes use the same freehub body. Plus an 8 speed cassette is cheaper than 10 speed.
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Old 01-14-20, 05:54 AM
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Where are you located? Do you have a bike co-op in your area? They can assist with parts and expertise.
https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki..._Organizations
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Old 01-14-20, 07:18 AM
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Exasperated.

Originally Posted by uratex1 View Post
... I currently have a thread-on freewheel and I want to upgrade it into a freehub and cassette thingy. Now, the problem is that I don't have any money ...
STOP!!! The problem is that you want to fundamentally change your drive train without either the resources or understanding of how to do it efficiently.

Don't. Stick with the 7-speed freewheel (or 8-speed freewheel) and continue to ride it until and unless you have an end-to-end design that will work from a compatibility perspective, and that is affordable. What you attempted to describe in your post(s) has unforeseen pitfalls that will cost you money to untangle. This is a waste of your scant funds.

And, the current rear hub cannot support the change to a freehub and cassette. So you're going to replace the wheel?
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Old 01-14-20, 07:44 AM
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What's wrong with your present set up?
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Old 01-14-20, 01:37 PM
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If you’re “broke af” and just started riding, upgrades are the last place you should be spending your money. Just ride your bike as it is.
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Old 01-14-20, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
If you’re “broke af” and just started riding, upgrades are the last place you should be spending your money. Just ride your bike as it is.
That didn't stop the tent guy
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Old 01-14-20, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
That didn't stop the tent guy
The homeless guy whose bike was incomplete without an 11-speed Campy chain, or a different one? We get all kinds here, don’t we?
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Old 01-14-20, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ironwood View Post
What's wrong with your present set up?
I don't know what the exact problem is but I think the rear wheel is not trued. The rotors rub the brake pads even after adjusting. I took a closer look at the wheel and saw that it wobbles side to side. Now, if I were to do something about the rear wheel, I might just as well do a hub replacement, but this will include having to change the cassette too.
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Old 01-14-20, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
If you’re “broke af” and just started riding, upgrades are the last place you should be spending your money. Just ride your bike as it is.
While I did say I'm "broke af" I did not really mean I am seriously broke. I have around 400-500USD on my parents and I don't think I will be able to get it until April or so.
It's really hard to ride it as it is because of a plethora of shifting problems (kinda worrying when you're out on the road) even after setting it up as properly as I can to the best of my abilities.
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Old 01-14-20, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by subgrade View Post
Why don't you just mount 8 speed cassette on the freehub? 8, 9 an 10 speed cassettes use the same freehub body. Plus an 8 speed cassette is cheaper than 10 speed.
I guess that's the logical choice.

Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Where are you located? Do you have a bike co-op in your area? They can assist with parts and expertise.
I believe we do have those things on facebook but the problem is that most of the people there are so hostile or are just a big fan of ****posting that it's much better to ask here than there.

Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
STOP!!! The problem is that you want to fundamentally change your drive train without either the resources or understanding of how to do it efficiently.

Don't. Stick with the 7-speed freewheel (or 8-speed freewheel) and continue to ride it until and unless you have an end-to-end design that will work from a compatibility perspective, and that is affordable. What you attempted to describe in your post(s) has unforeseen pitfalls that will cost you money to untangle. This is a waste of your scant funds.

And, the current rear hub cannot support the change to a freehub and cassette. So you're going to replace the wheel?
I believe I'm going to have to replace the spokes, and hubs. I think I can reuse the rim.
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Old 01-14-20, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by uratex1 View Post
I don't know what the exact problem is but I think the rear wheel is not trued. The rotors rub the brake pads even after adjusting. I took a closer look at the wheel and saw that it wobbles side to side. Now, if I were to do something about the rear wheel, I might just as well do a hub replacement, but this will include having to change the cassette too.
8 speed freewheel - Make sure the rear axle isn't broken
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Old 01-14-20, 07:35 PM
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If you change the wheel and get one that'll take an 11-speed cassette then you also need an 11-speed chain. Then you might have problems with that 11-speed chain getting caught between the chainrings on your crankset because the 11 speed chain is narrower. You'd also need new 11-speed shifters and possibly derailleurs too. Thus you're looking t a very expensive upgrade. You might be better of just saving and then buying an 11-speed bike.

I'd take the bike to a bicycle co-op if there's one near you and have someone with knowledge about your type of bike have a look at it.

Disc brakes on a wheel with a freewheel? Could be that the wheel or the brake or both are really low-end and prone to problems. Again a co-op should be able to help you. If there isn't one near you then a good shop might troubleshoot your brake/wheel issue for you. I'd take the bike in when they're not busy.

Cheers
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Old 01-15-20, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
8 speed freewheel - Make sure the rear axle isn't broken
It doesn't wobble that bad but i'll have it checked when I go to the shop on the weekend.

Originally Posted by Miele Man View Post
If you change the wheel and get one that'll take an 11-speed cassette then you also need an 11-speed chain. Then you might have problems with that 11-speed chain getting caught between the chainrings on your crankset because the 11 speed chain is narrower. You'd also need new 11-speed shifters and possibly derailleurs too. Thus you're looking t a very expensive upgrade. You might be better of just saving and then buying an 11-speed bike.

I'd take the bike to a bicycle co-op if there's one near you and have someone with knowledge about your type of bike have a look at it.

Disc brakes on a wheel with a freewheel? Could be that the wheel or the brake or both are really low-end and prone to problems. Again a co-op should be able to help you. If there isn't one near you then a good shop might troubleshoot your brake/wheel issue for you. I'd take the bike in when they're not busy.

Cheers
Well, that all went over my head. Totally forgot about the chains.

Everything is low end. I bought the bike brand new for about 100USD. I changed the FD to a Deore M590 used and RD to a non-series shimano.
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Old 01-15-20, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by uratex1 View Post
It doesn't wobble that bad but i'll have it checked when I go to the shop on the weekend.



Well, that all went over my head. Totally forgot about the chains.

Everything is low end. I bought the bike brand new for about 100USD. I changed the FD to a Deore M590 used and RD to a non-series shimano.
In that case I'd just get the bike looked at and perhaps replace the rear wheel if that's needed. Ride it a lot then. Then I'd save up until I could afford a better quality components equipped bike.

Cheers
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Old 01-15-20, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by uratex1 View Post
Everything is low end. I bought the bike brand new for about 100USD. I changed the FD to a Deore M590 used and RD to a non-series shimano.
A $100 USD new bike is usually in no way, shape, or form, worth upgrading unless you have all the parts for free and can do the work yourself. Keep the original stuff maintained and save your money for a better bike.
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Old 01-15-20, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by uratex1 View Post
I believe I'm going to have to replace the spokes, and hubs. I think I can reuse the rim.
If all you can reuse is the rim, a new rear wheel will be cheaper. A rim from a $100 bike is bound to be such poor quality that it wouldn't be worth using to rebuild a wheel
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Old 01-15-20, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
A $100 USD new bike is usually in no way, shape, or form, worth upgrading unless you have all the parts for free and can do the work yourself. Keep the original stuff maintained and save your money for a better bike.
Why? Is it about the frame? The only problems I have with it currently is the drivetrain, brakes, and the front suspension. I use it on the road around 90% of the time and the off roads aren't even too rough. I just want a bike that shifts and brakes nicely when I need to.

Even if I am to save my money to buy a better bike, It would probably be a 400 to almost 600 (maybe? or around 500) dollar bike. Which would be better then? A 400usd built bike or this bike with upgraded components?
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Old 01-15-20, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by uratex1 View Post
While I did say I'm "broke af" I did not really mean I am seriously broke. I have around 400-500USD on my parents and I don't think I will be able to get it until April or so.
It's really hard to ride it as it is because of a plethora of shifting problems (kinda worrying when you're out on the road) even after setting it up as properly as I can to the best of my abilities.
If the shifter and cassette and rear derailleur are all compatible on paper and designed for the same number of speeds, your inability to get it to work right will not be solved by changing parts. The problem, sorry to say, is you, not the parts.
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Old 01-15-20, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by uratex1 View Post
Why? Is it about the frame? The only problems I have with it currently is the drivetrain, brakes, and the front suspension. I use it on the road around 90% of the time and the off roads aren't even too rough. I just want a bike that shifts and brakes nicely when I need to.

Even if I am to save my money to buy a better bike, It would probably be a 400 to almost 600 (maybe? or around 500) dollar bike. Which would be better then? A 400usd built bike or this bike with upgraded components?
A second hand bike of better quality ($1000 new + 4 or 5 years of use) will be around your price range and be better than your tarted up POS $100 bike and better than a new $400 bike.
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Old 01-15-20, 08:31 AM
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What exactly is the current $100 bike?
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Old 01-15-20, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
If the shifter and cassette and rear derailleur are all compatible on paper and designed for the same number of speeds, your inability to get it to work right will not be solved by changing parts. The problem, sorry to say, is you, not the parts.
I'll try setting it up again and will try to do better. I've only noticed it when going uphill which was a pretty steep climb. I might have shifted wrong, given that I have just started biking.

Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
A second hand bike of better quality ($1000 new + 4 or 5 years of use) will be around your price range and be better than your tarted up POS $100 bike and better than a new $400 bike.
It's really hard to find a used bike like what you're trying to say and tougher luck if it will even be in good condition. What if a used bike is out of the question, then?
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