Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Converting Road Bike to City Bike

Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Converting Road Bike to City Bike

Old 10-07-19, 02:25 PM
  #1  
hellopizza
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Converting Road Bike to City Bike

Hi, I wanted to ask for some advice about converting a road bike into a more relaxed ride, something like a city bike. I have a 2001 Lemond Buenos Aires that I love but I got a slightly better road bike from a friend and have no need for two bikes that function the same. Anyhow, I've purchased a new stem, handlebars, and seat. I'd also like to bump up the tires from 700x25 to 700x28 if possible.

The current groupset on the bike is a 9-speed triple (Shimano 105). Is there any way for me to change out just the brifters for a shifting/braking system compatible with cruiser/porteur-type handlebars? I'd be especially grateful if someone offered a link or part name/number for the particular brake/shifter I'd need to buy that will work with my current groupset.

Any help greatly appreciated!
hellopizza is offline  
Old 10-07-19, 02:51 PM
  #2  
dabac
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,997
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 845 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times in 14 Posts
9-speed, then I’d pick up a set of MTB shifters. And a MTB front derailer. Pay attention to pull direction.
Or posssibly a set of North Road bars, put the brifters at the apex of the forward curve.
dabac is offline  
Old 10-07-19, 04:19 PM
  #3  
hellopizza
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've already picked up the Wald 867 bars and was previously thinking of just trying to mount brifters onto them.

If that doesn't work out, would the Shimano ST-EF65-9 work? Sorry, I'm not allowed to post a link. I'm still trying to figure out what derailleur I can get with them. Is there a reason I only need to change the front derailleur and not the rear? Thanks for the help!
hellopizza is offline  
Old 10-08-19, 02:29 AM
  #4  
jgwilliams
Senior Member
 
jgwilliams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 413

Bikes: Planet X Carbon Pro Evo SRAM Force, custom built 653 and 531 bikes with frames by Barry Witcomb, Giant XTC 4 mountain bike and a Brompton folding bike.

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 123 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 7 Posts
If you don't want to change the rear derailleur then you need to find the pull ratio and get some shifters that match. The pull ratio is a measurement of how much cable is pulled for a given movement of the derailleur. Unfortunately manufacturers love to mess with the ratio from one year to the next - ostensibly to improve performance. As long as the shifter pull ratio matches that of the derailleur then it will work. The same is true for the front derailleur, of course, but it's not quite so critical.

I rather doubt you'll have a lot of success putting brifters on straight bars.
jgwilliams is offline  
Old 10-08-19, 12:11 PM
  #5  
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,661
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 481 Post(s)
Liked 129 Times in 95 Posts
Originally Posted by jgwilliams View Post
If you don't want to change the rear derailleur then you need to find the pull ratio and get some shifters that match. The pull ratio is a measurement of how much cable is pulled for a given movement of the derailleur. Unfortunately manufacturers love to mess with the ratio from one year to the next - ostensibly to improve performance. As long as the shifter pull ratio matches that of the derailleur then it will work. The same is true for the front derailleur, of course, but it's not quite so critical.
Shimano 9sp was, as far as I can recall, compatible across the range and from MTB to road bikes. A set of 9sp Shimano mtb shifters will index perfectly with 9sp road parts.

The front derailleurs from that era, though, were not cross-compatible between MTB and RB.
Wilfred Laurier is offline  
Old 10-08-19, 01:09 PM
  #6  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 23,536
Mentioned: 182 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9767 Post(s)
Liked 322 Times in 255 Posts
@hellopizza's album:

https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/420542
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/15432096

CliffordK is offline  
Likes For CliffordK:
Old 10-08-19, 01:25 PM
  #7  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 23,536
Mentioned: 182 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9767 Post(s)
Liked 322 Times in 255 Posts
That Lemond with 853 steel should be a great base to work with.

I think you're already realizing some of the issues with the conversion. Changing brakes and shifters. But, I think the overall result should be nice.

Older bikes have a benefit of having stem shifters or downtube shifters which you don't have to mess with. Also, some brands such as Motobecane often had fender clearance on most of their bikes (especially if you convert from 27" to 700c).

Nonetheless, your Lemond is a good bike.

As @dabac & @Wilfred Laurier mentioned, 9-speed Shimano is pretty compatible across systems. You already have a triple crankset.

As far as clearances for different tires, you have the bike in front of you. Most of us can only give you generalizations of what to look for.

1/4" or so of clearance on all sides of the tires would be nice, but you can go down a bit more, especially if not riding on lot of gravel or fresh tar.

There are other bar configurations that you might look at. For example, people have used a variety of brakes and shifters on "Moustache" and "butterfly bars".




With a classic quill stem, vintage friction stem shifters are also possible, and dirt cheap.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 10-08-19, 09:33 PM
  #8  
bluehills3149
Senior Member
 
bluehills3149's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Brooklyn USA
Posts: 237

Bikes: depends what week it is..

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I've done a few of these conversions and here's what I found.
You can use any MTB 9spd shifters (eg Deore) and the rear shifting will be perfect but the front der will present issues as MTB left shifters pull more cable than road shifters. Here are some options:
1. Get rid of one of the triple crank's chainrings - the smallest is easiest but depends on whether you need it. Now the front shifter will usually be OK as it is only one of two positions so usually works OK.
2. Get one of the 2 front der's Shimano specially designed for this setup (R443 and R453). They were designed for flat bar bikes with road cranks.
3. Most MTB front der's will not fit as the arm will hit your rear tire since MTB usually have a lot more clearance here than road bikes but there may be some MTB der that do fit. I once put a 1980's era Shimano 200GS fr der on my road bike and it fit OK and there may be others.
4 Get a left side friction shifter that does not have clicks so it will be OK with any combination eg Sun RaceM96 Thumb Shifter.

For brakes just make sure the levers are suitable for cantilever brakes and they'll be fine.
bluehills3149 is offline  
Old 10-08-19, 11:34 PM
  #9  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 9,884

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 176 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3062 Post(s)
Liked 416 Times in 295 Posts
Swept bars and bar-end shifters. That's what I put on my early '90s diamond frame Univega. Nitto albatross bar, Shimano bar-end shifters, 8-speed cassette. No problem with the front triple -- the bar-end shifter is friction. Right/rear shifter is indexed or friction. The albatross bar shape offers almost as many hand positions as drop bars. And a more conventional brake position. Some folks find the mustache bar brake position awkward -- I know a couple of folks who tried them and switched back to compact drops.
canklecat is offline  
Old 10-09-19, 04:51 AM
  #10  
DorkDisk
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 1,095
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Liked 64 Times in 39 Posts
Friction fronts (thumb shifters) or DT shifters with top clamps are great for these conversions. The EZ Fire shifters will work with the proper front derailleur as mentioned, but make sure you get the short pull brake versions (along with the front derailleur)

These are a modern set: https://365cycles.com/products/new-m...full-warranty?


DorkDisk is offline  
Likes For DorkDisk:
Old 10-14-19, 05:08 PM
  #11  
hellopizza
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
Shimano 9sp was, as far as I can recall, compatible across the range and from MTB to road bikes. A set of 9sp Shimano mtb shifters will index perfectly with 9sp road parts.

The front derailleurs from that era, though, were not cross-compatible between MTB and RB.

I think I might try to use some MTB shifters and go to the "bike kitchen" to see if someone can help figure out how to get the front shifters functioning somewhat. Thanks for the input!
hellopizza is offline  
Old 10-14-19, 05:09 PM
  #12  
hellopizza
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by canklecat View Post
Swept bars and bar-end shifters. That's what I put on my early '90s diamond frame Univega. Nitto albatross bar, Shimano bar-end shifters, 8-speed cassette. No problem with the front triple -- the bar-end shifter is friction. Right/rear shifter is indexed or friction. The albatross bar shape offers almost as many hand positions as drop bars. And a more conventional brake position. Some folks find the mustache bar brake position awkward -- I know a couple of folks who tried them and switched back to compact drops.
If the MTB shifters fail I'll look into the bar end shifters. Thanks so much for the help!
hellopizza is offline  
Old 10-14-19, 05:11 PM
  #13  
hellopizza
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think I'm going to try the MTB shifters and go from there. I had considered the moustache bars previously but feel like they don't put me as upright and relaxed as I want to be on this bike. Thanks for your help!
hellopizza is offline  
Old 10-15-19, 08:15 AM
  #14  
Synack42
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times in 11 Posts
I'm a huge fan of these Sunrace friction shifters for refurbishing old bikes. I've used them on a couple drop to flat bar conversions as well. They work with everything and they're cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10...dp/B007QMJH86/
Synack42 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.