Campagnolo SR Freewheel ?
#1
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Campagnolo SR Freewheel ?
I've been looking into buying a used Campy SR Freewheel in the 13-20 cog and seems like prices are out of this world especially on the 'Bay' , what should i expect to pay for a used gold logo Campy freewheel in your opinion knowing it will be for daily use and some racing , i know a lot will tell me condition matters but from what i've seen it does not vary very much unless its NOS .. also , does treading make any difference when it comes to pricing !?
#2
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I sold a 13-21 on eBay for about $100 last year. It was in good condition accept for a little gouge in the slot for the removal tool. I was disappointed, expected to get about $150 based on prices of others I had seen. The larger cog versions like 24 and 26 tooth go for more. They are nice looking and lightweight (aluminum cogs - also wear quickly) but II don’t think they are worth the cost unless you are building out a collector bike. If you’re looking for a 6 speed freewheel to use with a Campy friction drivetrain, there are a lot of more affordable options. In fact, I probably have a few I could give you a fair deal on.
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#3
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I sold a 13-21 on eBay for about $100 last year. It was in good condition accept for a little gouge in the slot for the removal tool. I was disappointed, expected to get about $150 based on prices of others I had seen. The larger cog versions like 24 and 26 tooth go for more. They are nice looking and lightweight (aluminum cogs - also wear quickly) but II don’t think they are worth the cost unless you are building out a collector bike. If you’re looking for a 6 speed freewheel to use with a Campy friction drivetrain, there are a lot of more affordable options. In fact, I probably have a few I could give you a fair deal on.
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I concur. Unless it's wall hanger for weight weenie display, forget a freewheel with aluminum cogs. They wear out too fast. Too much money for too little life, especially on used samples with indeterminate use. I hope it's not slated for that Vagabond!
#5
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Looking at current prices nice race level 6 speed freewheels have all pretty pricey. Some more affordable optionsto look for are the Sach a.r.i.s ly series, Suntour winner pro, regina oro and regina america. But still expect to pay $50-100. I did see one that seems a bit of a bargain price on ebay but most are kinda rough or super pricey.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Maillard-Sa...LH_TitleDesc=0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Maillard-Sa...LH_TitleDesc=0
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Campy alloy freewheels were rare to begin with. NOS ones command big bucks because they're rarer than rare. The happy hunting ground is between NOS and used-up. I have a lightly-used 6 speed that I will never sell (mostly for sentimental reasons), but were I to do so, I'd go no lower than $150. The way I figger it, when it comes to stuff like this,"if you wanna play you gotta pay" - whether or not your main reasoning for acquiring is to use it. It's also not a good idea to use it as a daily rider - maybe for racing, but then again, what kind of racing are you doing that you're limited to 7 cogs out back? Whatever the case, save it for the racing; you'll get many more miles out of it if you do.
Avoid ones with damage to the removal slots like the plague! I wouldn't trust one that had been handled by an ape with the wrong freewheel remover.
DD
Avoid ones with damage to the removal slots like the plague! I wouldn't trust one that had been handled by an ape with the wrong freewheel remover.
DD
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+1 on avoiding freewheels with damaged removal slots it is a good sign the freewheel may have been road hard and neglected or maybe even miss threaded forced on to a hub at some point. Basically it is a sign the freewheel was seized to a hub at some point or as said aped off with the wrong tool.
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Corn cob FWs go for much less than FWs with real world cog ratios. That's the basic rule in pricing these upmarket FWs. Good note about aluminum FWs not the best choice for rider bikes. They really just make sense on "Special Projects" bikes like ultra weight weenie builds or historical builds that will not see many miles. I have one of those all aluminum Maillard Course FWs with Dural cogs and body. Amazingly light! Supposedly even lighter than Campy's much sought after aluminum FW. It got me down to 16 pounds on my Vitus Carbone weenie build,......but now I am worrying that I will not be able to remove it from the rear hub without messing up its removal notches.....I heard Suntour's own aluminum FW have the same problem with its notches. I guess just another problem one has to live with when using such components that "pushed the envelope"....
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They make great paperweights! I have a NOS one, but will not actually use it. I've had several over the years and even they are works of art, the cogs are fragile and wear quickly.
#10
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Wow . looks awesome ..i would not be able to use something like that its just too nice !
#11
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+1 on avoiding freewheels with damaged removal slots it is a good sign the freewheel may have been road hard and neglected or maybe even miss threaded forced on to a hub at some point. Basically it is a sign the freewheel was seized to a hub at some point or as said aped off with the wrong tool.
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I've been looking into buying a used Campy SR Freewheel in the 13-20 cog and seems like prices are out of this world especially on the 'Bay' , what should i expect to pay for a used gold logo Campy freewheel in your opinion knowing it will be for daily use and some racing , i know a lot will tell me condition matters but from what i've seen it does not vary very much unless its NOS .. also , does treading make any difference when it comes to pricing !?
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My thoughts exactly... I have a few alloy freewheels. Suntour and Everest and one cherished, used Campy on a funny bike. All my riding wheels have steel cogs. Even though I'm old, and don't (can't) pound on equipment like bitd. (Just sayin'... There ain't no law against it, if you decide to go that route.)
Eric
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+1 on avoiding freewheels with damaged removal slots it is a good sign the freewheel may have been road hard and neglected or maybe even miss threaded forced on to a hub at some point. Basically it is a sign the freewheel was seized to a hub at some point or as said aped off with the wrong tool.
Notch damage should crater the value unless the cogs look unused.
#15
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I put one on my late 70's Moto Grand Record, but it's been hanging on a wall for years. Prolly less than a 100 miles on it. Have the removal tool & orig box for it as well. I forget the ratio, maybe 13-23? Yup,they go for big $...esp nos!
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You want to race on a 6 spd freewheel? Then why not use the best....Suntour were the best BITD.
For riding around it doesn't really matter But if you want to race a 40 year old mechanism... Use the most reliable. See what Mike Fraysse says about old bike parts on his xbay sitefor a laugh.
Cheers, Eric
For riding around it doesn't really matter But if you want to race a 40 year old mechanism... Use the most reliable. See what Mike Fraysse says about old bike parts on his xbay sitefor a laugh.
Cheers, Eric