To drop or not to drop
08-23-18, 07:20 AM
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To drop or not to drop
I bought a Trek Neko in June of 2017. I love the bike but the fit has never been quite right. I’ve had trouble getting comfortable on it. I’m 5’6 so I was in between frame sizes and ended up going with the 17.5. I have long legs for my height.
I’ve had two injuries to my left hand. One from an airbag in 2007 that sprained my wrist/thumb and one from
a bike wreck in 2017 just before I bought my bike. I had a 5th metacarpal boxers fracture and damaged the knuckles on my pinky and ring finger so I don’t have full use of those now. I had some wrist pain when I came out of the cast and we worked on it physically therapy. I hoped it would go away eventually and it does until I spend a lot of time on my bike and then it aches for a week after in my wrist and thumb. I followed up with my doctor but they don’t see anything wrong so there’s not really anything to treat. My right hand is fine, it may get a little tight or tingly on a long ride but it never bothers me after the fact. Everything else about the bike is comfortable.
About a month ago I was on vacation and wondered into a bike shop and ended up testing a Salsa Vaya. It was so comfortable and felt like a great ride. I test drove a Trek Checkpoint and felt basically the same way. I’m considering making the upgrade but I’m worried I’m rushing into it. My issue is with longer rides so it’s hard to tell from a test drive. My Neko is comfortable when I’m just taking it around the block although I do feel more pressure on my hands. It seems counterintuitive that going to drops would help solve my problem but maybe having more hand positions would? I’m not great about getting out of the seat to pedal but I’m trying to do better, I’ve read that the drop bars can put more weight on your hands if you’re sitting. I did decide when I’m almost ready to buy I’ll take my Neko for a long ride and then do a test drive of whatever bike I’m considering.
I know that’s a lot of info and considering my wrist issue is unique you all may not have a full perspective but I’d be interested in your opinions. I do mostly road and packed gravel trails, and I’m getting into some sprint triathlons, for fun not for competition so I definitely don’t need anything too specific for that. I know the gravel bike would be a lot lighter which I’m also looking for. I just don’t want to spend that much money on a bike and end up in the same position I’m in now.
I’ve had two injuries to my left hand. One from an airbag in 2007 that sprained my wrist/thumb and one from
a bike wreck in 2017 just before I bought my bike. I had a 5th metacarpal boxers fracture and damaged the knuckles on my pinky and ring finger so I don’t have full use of those now. I had some wrist pain when I came out of the cast and we worked on it physically therapy. I hoped it would go away eventually and it does until I spend a lot of time on my bike and then it aches for a week after in my wrist and thumb. I followed up with my doctor but they don’t see anything wrong so there’s not really anything to treat. My right hand is fine, it may get a little tight or tingly on a long ride but it never bothers me after the fact. Everything else about the bike is comfortable.
About a month ago I was on vacation and wondered into a bike shop and ended up testing a Salsa Vaya. It was so comfortable and felt like a great ride. I test drove a Trek Checkpoint and felt basically the same way. I’m considering making the upgrade but I’m worried I’m rushing into it. My issue is with longer rides so it’s hard to tell from a test drive. My Neko is comfortable when I’m just taking it around the block although I do feel more pressure on my hands. It seems counterintuitive that going to drops would help solve my problem but maybe having more hand positions would? I’m not great about getting out of the seat to pedal but I’m trying to do better, I’ve read that the drop bars can put more weight on your hands if you’re sitting. I did decide when I’m almost ready to buy I’ll take my Neko for a long ride and then do a test drive of whatever bike I’m considering.
I know that’s a lot of info and considering my wrist issue is unique you all may not have a full perspective but I’d be interested in your opinions. I do mostly road and packed gravel trails, and I’m getting into some sprint triathlons, for fun not for competition so I definitely don’t need anything too specific for that. I know the gravel bike would be a lot lighter which I’m also looking for. I just don’t want to spend that much money on a bike and end up in the same position I’m in now.
08-23-18, 07:59 AM
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Position / comfort. My opinion is that you it would be useful for you to make/ have a basic dimension guide detailing your position. Dimensions should include; A) your seat height (bb center to your seat top) B)The difference between your seat height and handlebars. C) Saddle nose to your handlebar center. The advantage in having these dimensions while trying out bike will make it easy to compare as to differences and should help aid in telling why different bikes feel better/ worse in compared to your current bike. Be sure to take your dimension guide with you when looking at other bikes. P.S. I am 5'- 6" and always seem to end up between sizes. I used to ride as big as 52 cm road bike, but now with the complicated "compact sizing" I will not ride with anything bigger than a bike with a 44 cm actual seat tube.42 even better. (people are now riding with a lot more seat post sticking out of their frames.) Sounds like you are pretty much on track as far as sizing goes. good luck
08-23-18, 08:24 AM
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I neglected to put a proper introduction. Me; Ex bicycle store owner from the San Diego area for over twelve years, seven of those as a TREK dealership. Obviously, I helped out thousands of people over the years. I consider myself to be somewhat of a "sizing whiz". Sometimes I build Ravello travel bikes. I am going to guess that the saddle nose to handlebar measurement you are looking for should be about 19" (considering your height. good luck.
08-23-18, 11:04 AM
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Having more hand positions will be a big help. However the major thing you probably noticed was improved fit on the test ride bikes. That said, go for the drop bars. That bar shape and position has been the favorite of road riders for over 100 years. You have a lot of company.
Couple of primers on road bike positioning:
https://wheel-easy.org.uk/uploads/doc...Up%202017a.pdf
Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
Couple of primers on road bike positioning:
https://wheel-easy.org.uk/uploads/doc...Up%202017a.pdf
Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
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08-23-18, 12:23 PM
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Straight, drop, etc. it doesn't matter, just depends on what you are used to. Adapt!
08-23-18, 09:57 PM
#7
Senior Member
for some, keeping wrists straight is important to avoid wrist pain and in those instances a lot of possible hand positions is good and a bigger tire up front like a 28 instead of a 25 can make a big difference when you hit a rut.
08-27-18, 10:37 AM
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Flat bars just do not agree with me. Just doing my daily 10 mile commute on a flat bar will leave my wrists aching the next day.
Drop bars are preferred by many since they offer the most hand positions of any other handlebar design and allows the rider to move around to get comfortable, which is especially nice over long rides.
I don't think it's just the multiple positions either though. There are hand positions on a drop bar that are not easily emulated by alternative bars like the Jones H-Bar or On-One Mary bar. In particular the straight fist, on the hood/In the drops position. The only alternative bar I can think of that emulates this is the Velo Orange Crazy Bar. On randonneur bars, there is a hand position along the curve between the flats and the ramps where it sweeps up a bit that I've found to be particularly nice.
An affordable and easy way to test whether a drop bar or more stretched out position might be better for you is to get bar end grips and mount them inside of the brake levers like below:
Or maybe this setup would be good enough for you and you can stop there. Otherwise, a slightly more expensive route would be to try the Velo Orange Crazy bar (~$60) which would allow you to keep the same brake levers/shifters.
Edit: the Surly Moloko bar might look a bit more appropriate on the Neko if that matters to you at all. It has multiple hand positions, sorta mimics the on-the-hoods grip but are a bit more expensive than the VO Crazy bar.
Drop bars are preferred by many since they offer the most hand positions of any other handlebar design and allows the rider to move around to get comfortable, which is especially nice over long rides.
I don't think it's just the multiple positions either though. There are hand positions on a drop bar that are not easily emulated by alternative bars like the Jones H-Bar or On-One Mary bar. In particular the straight fist, on the hood/In the drops position. The only alternative bar I can think of that emulates this is the Velo Orange Crazy Bar. On randonneur bars, there is a hand position along the curve between the flats and the ramps where it sweeps up a bit that I've found to be particularly nice.
An affordable and easy way to test whether a drop bar or more stretched out position might be better for you is to get bar end grips and mount them inside of the brake levers like below:
Or maybe this setup would be good enough for you and you can stop there. Otherwise, a slightly more expensive route would be to try the Velo Orange Crazy bar (~$60) which would allow you to keep the same brake levers/shifters.
Edit: the Surly Moloko bar might look a bit more appropriate on the Neko if that matters to you at all. It has multiple hand positions, sorta mimics the on-the-hoods grip but are a bit more expensive than the VO Crazy bar.
Last edited by zze86; 08-27-18 at 10:43 AM.
08-27-18, 12:08 PM
#9
Banned
Lose the round grips in favor of Ergon GR series flat surface grips..
I have their GR3,
for double grip shift like you have*, they're a shorter width, since the shifters are needing space..
then I'm more resting my hands on the bars open palm, rather than rigidly gripping a round grip
They also make a GC grip if you opt for a bar with more sweep angle....
* based on offered picture which is not the OP at the top..
Maybe post pictures or links?
...
I have their GR3,
for double grip shift like you have*, they're a shorter width, since the shifters are needing space..
then I'm more resting my hands on the bars open palm, rather than rigidly gripping a round grip
They also make a GC grip if you opt for a bar with more sweep angle....
* based on offered picture which is not the OP at the top..
Maybe post pictures or links?
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-27-18 at 12:13 PM.
