Miyata 1000 questions
02-26-19, 01:12 AM
#26
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Hey now, I know that bike! 
You've gotta remember that that is an '81.. BEFORE most of the mid-'80's touring-bike improvements! As an early '80s 'period' piece, it IS the 'creme-de-la-creme', but even a few years later, a 'mid-grade' Miyata 610/Univega Gran Tourismo was specced out better! Frame/fork? - Frames being double-/triple-butted-/STB, they are the same other than fork material, just a few more braze-ons. That '81's frame size/geometry and construction is never going to be 'sprightly!' It was never intended to be!!! It is a TOURING bike, not a canyon-carver!!!!
You've gotta remember that that is an '81.. BEFORE most of the mid-'80's touring-bike improvements! As an early '80s 'period' piece, it IS the 'creme-de-la-creme', but even a few years later, a 'mid-grade' Miyata 610/Univega Gran Tourismo was specced out better! Frame/fork? - Frames being double-/triple-butted-/STB, they are the same other than fork material, just a few more braze-ons. That '81's frame size/geometry and construction is never going to be 'sprightly!' It was never intended to be!!! It is a TOURING bike, not a canyon-carver!!!!
And if I ever get around to serious loaded touring some day, as I hope to do, I think my Cannonade will be the go-to rig for that anyway. Just a little bit longer, a little bit lighter and a lot stiffer.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
02-26-19, 06:39 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
That’s a Brooks Isle of Wight saddle bag - large size. I have two and they’re my favorite bags for carrying flat repair stuff, spare tubes, tools, etc. Very easy to open, yet secure and stable on the bike.
03-08-19, 02:13 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
Progress
Nitto front rack added, Dia Compe brake hoods ditto. Mudguards/fenders (50cm Giles Berthoud stainless steel) did not give me any pushback on installation. A couple of Acorn bags came off other bikes to make running around town convenient. The Silca pump was also moved from another bike because it was a perfect fit.
Still mulling over rear rack choices. The Jim Blackburn one I have will take a lot of modifications to reach the brazed-on fittings. And for my purposes, do I really need one? Experience will tell. It sits by the door for now so it can be grabbed for errands and transport to meetings, etc.
Still mulling over rear rack choices. The Jim Blackburn one I have will take a lot of modifications to reach the brazed-on fittings. And for my purposes, do I really need one? Experience will tell. It sits by the door for now so it can be grabbed for errands and transport to meetings, etc.
03-08-19, 07:24 PM
#29
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Nitto front rack added, Dia Compe brake hoods ditto. Mudguards/fenders (50cm Giles Berthoud stainless steel) did not give me any pushback on installation. A couple of Acorn bags came off other bikes to make running around town convenient. The Silca pump was also moved from another bike because it was a perfect fit.
Still mulling over rear rack choices. The Jim Blackburn one I have will take a lot of modifications to reach the brazed-on fittings. And for my purposes, do I really need one? Experience will tell. It sits by the door for now so it can be grabbed for errands and transport to meetings, etc.
Still mulling over rear rack choices. The Jim Blackburn one I have will take a lot of modifications to reach the brazed-on fittings. And for my purposes, do I really need one? Experience will tell. It sits by the door for now so it can be grabbed for errands and transport to meetings, etc.
Did you mount the fender to the rack?
What do you think of the ride- as an unloaded rider?
What pressure are you running the Sand Canyons at?
Again, my Miyata 1000 is a 1990 model- so it's naturally going to be different. I don't know how the earlier Miyata tourers were in comparison to the other companies' tourers- Where my 1985 Trek 620 and 720 are outrageously long- they also have a lot of "give" in the ride. Where some people refer to them as "flexy," I'm not a masher, so that give translates to smoothness. My Miyata 1000, however is much more stiff, but it's also not as long and weighs more (with splined, butted tubing). Do you find your bike to be as stiff as you like it? A lot of people say a lot of the elements of the bike really shine when there's more of a load on the bike. IMO- a load is a load- but then again, I haven't had the Miyata out with a full load. Yet.
M1000 Dec 2018 2 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
03-08-19, 10:45 PM
#30
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Bike looks very sharp, nice work. I found the 50cm berthoud fenders a bit challenging to squeeze between the chain stays on my ‘82. Thinking of dropping down to the 40cm size, but that means limiting to 27x1-1/8” tyres. Do you have any tips to share?
03-08-19, 11:56 PM
#31
Senior Member
Nitto front rack added, Dia Compe brake hoods ditto. Mudguards/fenders (50cm Giles Berthoud stainless steel) did not give me any pushback on installation. A couple of Acorn bags came off other bikes to make running around town convenient. The Silca pump was also moved from another bike because it was a perfect fit.
Still mulling over rear rack choices. The Jim Blackburn one I have will take a lot of modifications to reach the brazed-on fittings. And for my purposes, do I really need one? Experience will tell. It sits by the door for now so it can be grabbed for errands and transport to meetings, etc.
Still mulling over rear rack choices. The Jim Blackburn one I have will take a lot of modifications to reach the brazed-on fittings. And for my purposes, do I really need one? Experience will tell. It sits by the door for now so it can be grabbed for errands and transport to meetings, etc.
Bike is looking nice for sure.
If you aren't sure why you need a rear rack, you probably don't need one. That's seems like plenty of capacity for a commuter/runaround bike. If you do eventually need a rear rack, I think it should be another Nitto, to match the front. Perhaps one of the more minimal ones like the R26 or R15, but if you're going touring go for the full on one like a campee or 32R. I'm not that matchy matchy, but front and rear racks look so much better if they match. Besides, Blackburn silver is extinct, and Nitto rocks for function, quality and looks.
03-09-19, 07:52 AM
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, all, for the feedback!
@The Golden Boy - This thing’s a lovely rider. Stiff enough for brisk acceleration. As a fairly lightweight rider, springiness is not an attribute that I encounter except in the area of general comfiness under rougher road conditions. I’m running the Sand Canyons at 50#.
@panzerwagon - I did not even attempt to squash the rear mudguard between the chainstays. I’ve configured aluminum to fit, but not steel. Instead I sat it at the level of the bridge and made a bracket and spacer to attach it and adjust the fender line. I lost some drive train protection that way, but not much. I plan to add a mud flap in front, anyway, so that will further decrease exposure in that area.
@Salamandrine - I agree about not being “matchy-matchy” (example: front and rear bags from same manufacturer, but different colors). But I agree that the R26 or R15 would look amazing and work well. One of those would cost as much as I paid for the bike (ouch!), but would be well worth it if I find I really need a back rack.
@The Golden Boy - This thing’s a lovely rider. Stiff enough for brisk acceleration. As a fairly lightweight rider, springiness is not an attribute that I encounter except in the area of general comfiness under rougher road conditions. I’m running the Sand Canyons at 50#.
@panzerwagon - I did not even attempt to squash the rear mudguard between the chainstays. I’ve configured aluminum to fit, but not steel. Instead I sat it at the level of the bridge and made a bracket and spacer to attach it and adjust the fender line. I lost some drive train protection that way, but not much. I plan to add a mud flap in front, anyway, so that will further decrease exposure in that area.
@Salamandrine - I agree about not being “matchy-matchy” (example: front and rear bags from same manufacturer, but different colors). But I agree that the R26 or R15 would look amazing and work well. One of those would cost as much as I paid for the bike (ouch!), but would be well worth it if I find I really need a back rack.
05-13-19, 04:49 PM
#33
Member
I came by a 1981 Miyata 1000 in my size (!). Kind of scuffy on the outside but pristine on the inside. I’m thinking that some woman received the bike from her man in hopes that she’d enthusiastically join him in serious touring. From the many chips on the chainstay, my story is that she was not initially skilled in handling the shifting and had a lot of chain-chainstay contact. My story continues with her telling her man where he could put that bike. It’s since been subject to banging around storage areas, judging from the many chips on the royal blue paint. (I intend to celebrate the beausage with some light steel wool application and then clear coat over the bare metal bits.). Now for the questions:
I want to switch the crankset from the half-step plus granny SR Apex original to a Sugino AT that I have in my parts bin. Sheldon Brown’s comparability chart indicates that the original bottom bracket spindle should work @127.5mm. Does anyone have experience with this? It looks as if it should have plenty of clearance from eyeball measurement.
The original wheels are REALLY heavy! Even after removing what I suspect were the original tires and tubes. What do most people do with wheels on these bikes? Enjoy the sturdiness of the original design? Replace with lighter rims and spokes? I kind of like the robustness of them, but wonder how they affect performance ...
More questions (and pics) to come.
I want to switch the crankset from the half-step plus granny SR Apex original to a Sugino AT that I have in my parts bin. Sheldon Brown’s comparability chart indicates that the original bottom bracket spindle should work @127.5mm. Does anyone have experience with this? It looks as if it should have plenty of clearance from eyeball measurement.
The original wheels are REALLY heavy! Even after removing what I suspect were the original tires and tubes. What do most people do with wheels on these bikes? Enjoy the sturdiness of the original design? Replace with lighter rims and spokes? I kind of like the robustness of them, but wonder how they affect performance ...
More questions (and pics) to come.
I myself had a 1981 blue Miyata 1000 frame just like this one in size 19.5", and I sold it, and now I'm about to buy it back from the person I sold it to years ago. In the meantime, I have been riding two Univega Specialissima (1983 and 1984), which are rebranded Miyata 1000s with often better paint jobs. I find the Univega Specialissima to be the ultimate connoisseur bike -- because you really have to know that it's a Miyata 1000 in disguise to understand that it's special -- but often I long for the Miyata logo itself, and the whole history that comes with it.
Anyway, that's a digression. The point is that the Specialissimas I have been riding are 21". And the 1000 I am about to buy back is 19.5". I myself am 5'6"1/2, with shorter legs and longer torso. I seem to be able to adapt to both sizes, I guess, although I've never ridden the smaller 1000 for long enough to really judge. I suppose in my builds I balance everything out with stems and seat posts. I see from your photos of the restored bike that you have your seat post all the way up, road-bike style, which makes me think you must be around my height or taller, yet you call the 19.5" your size. What is your feedback on the size and riding position, if you don't mind sharing?
Also, a fun thing I discovered looking at my Miyata catalogues: the 1981 model (the one you have and I will soon have again) has the same wheelbase for 19.5" and 21" sizes. But in 1982 and 1983 they make a subtle change which means the 19.5" actually has a longer wheelbase than the next model up. The anomaly seems to straighten itself out by 1984. I wonder if this particular, unique frame, the stretched-out 19.5" from 1982 or 1983, would be the perfect one for myself...
from the 1981 catalogue
from the 1982 catalogue
from the 1983 catalogue
from the 1984 catalogue
05-13-19, 06:21 PM
#34
Full Member
Thread Starter
So happy to hear that you’ll be re-united with your former Miyata 1000! Really interesting data - thanks!
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
One of our BF members supplied the back rack at a very reasonable price
.
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
One of our BF members supplied the back rack at a very reasonable price
.
Last edited by Honusms; 05-13-19 at 06:25 PM.
05-13-19, 06:48 PM
#35
Senior Member
So happy to hear that you’ll be re-united with your former Miyata 1000! Really interesting data - thanks!
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
One of our BF members supplied the back rack at a very reasonable price.
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
One of our BF members supplied the back rack at a very reasonable price
.
05-13-19, 07:36 PM
#36
Member
So happy to hear that you’ll be re-united with your former Miyata 1000! Really interesting data - thanks!
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
Everything that is on it would/will move to the blue Miyata 1000 frame when I get it back. You’ll notice some similarities with yours!
05-30-19, 05:56 PM
#37
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Hello everyone! This is my first post on bikeforums, but I've had a lot of fun reading for a while.
This seems to be the most current Miyata 1000 thread, with the added bonus of being about a 1981. I hope nobody minds me reviving it, it's only been a few months...
I picked up a maroon '81 1000 (56cm) yesterday for 200 bucks. Seems like a steel to me! Har har. It is my first touring bike and I intend to do some light touring on it fairly soon. Condition is good--I bought it from a philosophical ex-bike-shop-owner here in Seattle who did a lot of work to it while leaving it intact.
All I've done is pop on my Brooks.
Pics... attempted. Once I post ten times, I guess! It is maroon and the paint is OK. Front and rear rack, I think they are original. Suntour cyclone GT 15 speed, cantis, the works! See Lascaucaveman for the general idea, it's a smaller frame but otherwise very similar.
Off to ride a bit!
This seems to be the most current Miyata 1000 thread, with the added bonus of being about a 1981. I hope nobody minds me reviving it, it's only been a few months...
I picked up a maroon '81 1000 (56cm) yesterday for 200 bucks. Seems like a steel to me! Har har. It is my first touring bike and I intend to do some light touring on it fairly soon. Condition is good--I bought it from a philosophical ex-bike-shop-owner here in Seattle who did a lot of work to it while leaving it intact.
All I've done is pop on my Brooks.
Pics... attempted. Once I post ten times, I guess! It is maroon and the paint is OK. Front and rear rack, I think they are original. Suntour cyclone GT 15 speed, cantis, the works! See Lascaucaveman for the general idea, it's a smaller frame but otherwise very similar.
Off to ride a bit!
05-30-19, 10:10 PM
#38
Senior Member
Hello everyone! This is my first post on bikeforums, but I've had a lot of fun reading for a while.
This seems to be the most current Miyata 1000 thread, with the added bonus of being about a 1981. I hope nobody minds me reviving it, it's only been a few months...
I picked up a maroon '81 1000 (56cm) yesterday for 200 bucks. Seems like a steel to me! Har har. It is my first touring bike and I intend to do some light touring on it fairly soon. Condition is good--I bought it from a philosophical ex-bike-shop-owner here in Seattle who did a lot of work to it while leaving it intact.
All I've done is pop on my Brooks.
Pics... attempted. Once I post ten times, I guess! It is maroon and the paint is OK. Front and rear rack, I think they are original. Suntour cyclone GT 15 speed, cantis, the works! See Lascaucaveman for the general idea, it's a smaller frame but otherwise very similar.
Off to ride a bit!
This seems to be the most current Miyata 1000 thread, with the added bonus of being about a 1981. I hope nobody minds me reviving it, it's only been a few months...
I picked up a maroon '81 1000 (56cm) yesterday for 200 bucks. Seems like a steel to me! Har har. It is my first touring bike and I intend to do some light touring on it fairly soon. Condition is good--I bought it from a philosophical ex-bike-shop-owner here in Seattle who did a lot of work to it while leaving it intact.
All I've done is pop on my Brooks.
Pics... attempted. Once I post ten times, I guess! It is maroon and the paint is OK. Front and rear rack, I think they are original. Suntour cyclone GT 15 speed, cantis, the works! See Lascaucaveman for the general idea, it's a smaller frame but otherwise very similar.
Off to ride a bit!
The bike will bring you a lot of joy. I have an 82 and 91 1000. I prefer the 82 in terms of ride quality as it feels more spiffy. Very similar to your 81.
Take part in discussion, post a lot and then post some pictures!
05-30-19, 11:30 PM
#39
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So happy to hear that you’ll be re-united with your former Miyata 1000! Really interesting data - thanks!
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
One of our BF members supplied the back rack at a very reasonable price.
I am 5’5” with short legs and a long torso. My seatpost actually is not all the way up - there’s still about 3” before the do-not-exceed line. I have about a 2 1/2” drop to the handlebars, which is comfortable for me. I’m well balanced from seatbones to feet to hands and do not feel at all confined in the cockpit. There’s plenty of stretch room - especially in the drops for windy days. So you may have a similar experience.
Here’s mine in its current errand-running configuration (minus the panniers that I use for groceries/bulk toting).
One of our BF members supplied the back rack at a very reasonable price
.
05-31-19, 10:22 AM
#40
Newbie
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Ravenna, Seattle, WA
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Thanks! It has a lot of character, is very smooth-riding and, yeah, spiffy as heck. I've never had unindexed downtube shifting before, so that's an adjustment, but one that has its own charm.
05-31-19, 04:15 PM
#41
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@oughtamiyata,
Lots of us (Miyata lovers as well as C&V in general) in the Seattle area that you mentioned. Where are you in or around Seattle?
I suggest you add your location to your description, and watch this forum for gatherings/rides, both here and in the Portland area, where there are more of the same.
Lots of us (Miyata lovers as well as C&V in general) in the Seattle area that you mentioned. Where are you in or around Seattle?
I suggest you add your location to your description, and watch this forum for gatherings/rides, both here and in the Portland area, where there are more of the same.
08-08-19, 01:28 AM
#43
Member
Hi Folks!
Loving this thread and everything on show..
re: OP - So much for your build being a stealth bike! Looking fantastic, though.
I have a question for my -87 1000, which I'm currently updating with the various bells and whistles:
It's regarding the brake hangers on the front and rear. How have you assembled the cable through the rear hanger? I think I need a barrel nipple, but not sure how it will work with the 'cupped' nature of the rear hanger.
Loving this thread and everything on show..
re: OP - So much for your build being a stealth bike!
Looking fantastic, though.I have a question for my -87 1000, which I'm currently updating with the various bells and whistles:
It's regarding the brake hangers on the front and rear. How have you assembled the cable through the rear hanger? I think I need a barrel nipple, but not sure how it will work with the 'cupped' nature of the rear hanger.
08-08-19, 09:54 AM
#44
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Just popping in...
Can't help Rodrider, I'm afraid, but his post reminded me to get on here. Also reminded me that I need to start hunting for one of those Sugino AT cranksets.
I thought I'd tell you folks that I rode my '81 1000, who I have dubbed "Milly," across the Olympic Peninsula here in Washington State last weekend. Spent the first night in Port Angeles, then camped at the Hole in the Wall site on the beach. The Olympic Discovery Trail remains unfinished, unfortunately, so at the worst moments I was pushing over rocks on collapsed ex-railroad trails around Lake Crescent and riding too close to logging trucks on busy highways. But the best moments involved turning onto miles and miles of dead-straight bike trails and/or logging roads, pointing myself towards the vanishing point, and pedaling at my fastest sustainable cadence through the utter nothingness of those places. I saw one human being in over twenty miles between Ovington and Sappho (they were driving a pickup truck with tires as tall as a mounted cyclist). Once they finish that trail, it'll be a classic. Can't quite recommend it at the moment.
Still need six more posts to put up pics!
I thought I'd tell you folks that I rode my '81 1000, who I have dubbed "Milly," across the Olympic Peninsula here in Washington State last weekend. Spent the first night in Port Angeles, then camped at the Hole in the Wall site on the beach. The Olympic Discovery Trail remains unfinished, unfortunately, so at the worst moments I was pushing over rocks on collapsed ex-railroad trails around Lake Crescent and riding too close to logging trucks on busy highways. But the best moments involved turning onto miles and miles of dead-straight bike trails and/or logging roads, pointing myself towards the vanishing point, and pedaling at my fastest sustainable cadence through the utter nothingness of those places. I saw one human being in over twenty miles between Ovington and Sappho (they were driving a pickup truck with tires as tall as a mounted cyclist). Once they finish that trail, it'll be a classic. Can't quite recommend it at the moment.
Still need six more posts to put up pics!
08-08-19, 11:01 AM
#45
Senior Member
Hi Folks!
Loving this thread and everything on show..
re: OP - So much for your build being a stealth bike! Looking fantastic, though.
I have a question for my -87 1000, which I'm currently updating with the various bells and whistles:
It's regarding the brake hangers on the front and rear. How have you assembled the cable through the rear hanger? I think I need a barrel nipple, but not sure how it will work with the 'cupped' nature of the rear hanger.
Loving this thread and everything on show..
re: OP - So much for your build being a stealth bike!
Looking fantastic, though.I have a question for my -87 1000, which I'm currently updating with the various bells and whistles:
It's regarding the brake hangers on the front and rear. How have you assembled the cable through the rear hanger? I think I need a barrel nipple, but not sure how it will work with the 'cupped' nature of the rear hanger.
08-28-19, 06:13 AM
#46
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08-28-19, 09:29 AM
#47
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
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Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
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That helps, thank you. Here is (if I can intrude with a 1000 in Univega attire), my current Specialissima. It’s actually a 1982 Miyata 1000, same exact geometry and tubing — the only difference is that the pugs have little rhomboid cutouts instead of the little “M”.
Everything that is on it would/will move to the blue Miyata 1000 frame when I get it back. You’ll notice some similarities with yours!.
Everything that is on it would/will move to the blue Miyata 1000 frame when I get it back. You’ll notice some similarities with yours!.
My own experience is with the Miyata Gran- or Grand-Touring models from around 1977 and 1984 (a Six-Ten model). Geometry changed wildly over those years, the earlier one oddly having pretty steep angles and a high bb (no, it hadn't been in a collision).
I have dibs on a Specialissima in my size, might actually add it to my Six-Ten, my Two-Ten touring, my Randonee and my Nishiki Seral.
FWIW, I tend to go off-road with my touring bikes, except for the Trek 720 that is.
@ryansu, I have a 23" Miyata Gran Touring frame that shows significant outdoor exposure I would be willing to part with. It should clean up nicely however. It comes with the original excellent(!) canti's that handle 700c touring rims nicely. This isn't the one that I pounded off-road for two years btw, that one got donated to Trips-4-Kids long ago. I think that it still has the OEM rear rack and headset.
08-28-19, 09:52 AM
#48
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Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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@ryansu, I have a 23" Miyata Gran Touring frame that shows significant outdoor exposure I would be willing to part with. It should clean up nicely however. It comes with the original excellent(!) canti's that handle 700c touring rims nicely. This isn't the one that I pounded off-road for two years btw, that one got donated to Trips-4-Kids long ago. I think that it still has the OEM rear rack and headset.
08-28-19, 10:53 AM
#49
Senior Member
One of my friends in high school had a 1980 Specialissima with GC450 brakes. Nice bike.
The Univega Specialissima came with GC450 center pulls through 1981. After that they hopped on the trend and went to cantilevers. Center pulls were the standard touring brake of the 70s. Cantis were at that time seen as a sort of archaic brake that was only used on tandems, or seen on old bikes from like the 50s. Univega was probably just being conservative by spec'ing CP. There was a small retro revival trend of cantis around 1980 or so, reinforced by the invention of the MTB. When it was clear cantilever brakes were the 'new' thing, UV hopped on board. Miyata was clearly at least a year or two ahead on this.
BTW. Anyone know when the first model year for the Miyata 1000 was?
08-28-19, 02:47 PM
#50
Senior Member
