Changing gearing for flatland commute
11-09-18, 09:53 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The cheap way to switch to 1x11 is just pick the chainring size you want and never shift out of it. Just because your crank has two rings doesn't mean you have to use them both. An 11-34 cassette makes no sense at all for your terrain. I'd want something like 12-25 or 12-27 with a 42T ring. You can find cheap 110 BCD 42T rings. Ask around on this forum and you might even be able to find someone to swap with. If you don't plan to use the small ring you don't need a fancy chainring with pins and ramps. Keep the front rerailleur as a chain guide.
The crank coming loose is something FSA is notorious for. I've got one that does that. It's a bad design. For those who don't know, the left crank arm is held on to the spindle but a 10mm bolt. It's not a press fit like square taper cranks. If you loosen the bolt the crank arm slides right off. The bolt comes loose pretty regularly. Proper torque ought to prevent this, but it's a lot more torque than most people expect. A bit of blue LocTite on the bolt would probably also take care of it.
The crank coming loose is something FSA is notorious for. I've got one that does that. It's a bad design. For those who don't know, the left crank arm is held on to the spindle but a 10mm bolt. It's not a press fit like square taper cranks. If you loosen the bolt the crank arm slides right off. The bolt comes loose pretty regularly. Proper torque ought to prevent this, but it's a lot more torque than most people expect. A bit of blue LocTite on the bolt would probably also take care of it.
My 12-25 is being held at customs still, refreshing every day to see if I'll get it in time before all the snow starts coming down! But you are basically describing my goal of only using one chainring size. If my BB doesn't need replacing then I'll follow through on the chain ring replacement. Otherwise, I'll get a Shimano BB + crank!
11-10-18, 10:54 AM
#27
Senior Member
I have an FSA SLK crank that has the same issue, but this one is from 13 years ago. You'd think FSA would have found an answer to this problem by now as they are notorious for this. I have a Chorus Ultratorque crank sitting underneath my bike on the trainer mat waiting to be installed to replace it. While I'm a Campy guy you can't go wrong with Shimano either. I'm at the point where 3rd party stuff no matter how good it is supposed to be isn't worth the aggravation.
As for your gearing, in flat terrain you don't need much. I wouldn't do anything more than what you did by buying a narrower range cassette. If it is that flat you'll only need a handful of gears anyway and mostly stay in the big ring in the front. Whether the ring is 46, 48 or 50 it won't matter you'll just compensate in the rear. I put a wide range cassette on my commuter but I never use the larger cogs, even going up the modest hills/bridges I encounter on my daily commute.
As for your gearing, in flat terrain you don't need much. I wouldn't do anything more than what you did by buying a narrower range cassette. If it is that flat you'll only need a handful of gears anyway and mostly stay in the big ring in the front. Whether the ring is 46, 48 or 50 it won't matter you'll just compensate in the rear. I put a wide range cassette on my commuter but I never use the larger cogs, even going up the modest hills/bridges I encounter on my daily commute.
11-11-18, 09:44 AM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have an FSA SLK crank that has the same issue, but this one is from 13 years ago. You'd think FSA would have found an answer to this problem by now as they are notorious for this. I have a Chorus Ultratorque crank sitting underneath my bike on the trainer mat waiting to be installed to replace it. While I'm a Campy guy you can't go wrong with Shimano either. I'm at the point where 3rd party stuff no matter how good it is supposed to be isn't worth the aggravation.
As for your gearing, in flat terrain you don't need much. I wouldn't do anything more than what you did by buying a narrower range cassette. If it is that flat you'll only need a handful of gears anyway and mostly stay in the big ring in the front. Whether the ring is 46, 48 or 50 it won't matter you'll just compensate in the rear. I put a wide range cassette on my commuter but I never use the larger cogs, even going up the modest hills/bridges I encounter on my daily commute.
As for your gearing, in flat terrain you don't need much. I wouldn't do anything more than what you did by buying a narrower range cassette. If it is that flat you'll only need a handful of gears anyway and mostly stay in the big ring in the front. Whether the ring is 46, 48 or 50 it won't matter you'll just compensate in the rear. I put a wide range cassette on my commuter but I never use the larger cogs, even going up the modest hills/bridges I encounter on my daily commute.
I was curious about Campy's stuff, but it seems to be in general quite a bit pricier than Shimanos stuff or at the very least not on sale as much. Unfortunately it looks like I won't get the cassette before I leave for fall break so I'm hoping the weather isn't too cold when I return so I can still try out the cassette.
11-15-18, 03:31 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863
Bikes: too many of all kinds
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times
in
335 Posts
Wow, in a commute like that I use 42x17 in the spring, and 42x16 in the summer (after I get my legs back). Fixed gear - less to worry about, lol.
Last year I did use a geared bike, but still used the same gearing (39x15 mostly). Not much point in shifting when it is flat.
(well, except that the wind always comes from the west, and I'm always heading into it going home - I really should have a home where I ride east to go home).
I never use a 50t chain ring (when riding 2x) unless I'm in a pace line. Even with your 34t chainring, I'm doing 100rpm with 14t cog at 20mph.
Last year I did use a geared bike, but still used the same gearing (39x15 mostly). Not much point in shifting when it is flat.
(well, except that the wind always comes from the west, and I'm always heading into it going home - I really should have a home where I ride east to go home).
I never use a 50t chain ring (when riding 2x) unless I'm in a pace line. Even with your 34t chainring, I'm doing 100rpm with 14t cog at 20mph.
11-16-18, 12:23 PM
#31
Banned
11-16-18, 03:01 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863
Bikes: too many of all kinds
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times
in
335 Posts
Gosh, that chain is full of rust!
Fortunately its not your chain, its the bike behind it. :-O
Tiny chain ring ya got there...
Fortunately its not your chain, its the bike behind it. :-O
Tiny chain ring ya got there...
11-24-18, 08:11 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,528
Bikes: 2018 Roubaix Expert Di2, 2016 Diverge Expert X1
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
105 Posts
It's only a handful of miles. I probably could do okay on a SS, but I haven't been very happy on the SS I've tried. If I were to do it all again, I would just scrap the 2x up front and get a single 1x with a 10 or 11 speed on the rear. I am thinking the 12-25 will solve the problems for me, but I'm still pretty much rarely ever touching the current 11,13, and 15t with the 50T on the front so I am leaning towards an eventual replacement of the crankset. I need to take the bike in and get the BB inspected and see if it's toast. I'll be more willing to replace the crank if the BB needs replacement as well.
12-04-18, 05:02 PM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I wanted to update everyone on the change. I finally installed the new chain and cassette, and I LOVE it. The shifting is so smooth cog to cog, and I am actually using all of the cogs now (well, mostly the upper half). Don't see any need to replace the front crank gearing anymore. Much thanks to everyone for their tips.
12-06-18, 11:04 AM
#36
Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 30
Bikes: 2018 Cannondale Quick 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That's an interesting topic with a lot of different views and opinions. I thought I'd chime in provided I also bike in a flatland (Chicago).
My commute is 27 miles. Gearing is a triple 48/38/28 with an 11-32 cassette (11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32).
What I'm doing most often is: start moving on 38/16, then switch to 48/16 in about 5-8 seconds. With occasional ups to 48/14 and 48/12 depending on traffic and the weather.
On a good day with no headwind, this combo becomes 38/14 -> 48/14. Realistically, just 2 gears are enough for a commute, they just need to be "just right" for you.
That's why I'm disappointed with the common negligence of front derailleurs on commuter hybrids with triples in general and on my Quick 4 in particular: Altus on the front and Deore on the rear, while most often I'm using FD. Could have achieved similar via 38/16 -> 38/12 but don't want to cross the chain.
My commute is 27 miles. Gearing is a triple 48/38/28 with an 11-32 cassette (11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32).
What I'm doing most often is: start moving on 38/16, then switch to 48/16 in about 5-8 seconds. With occasional ups to 48/14 and 48/12 depending on traffic and the weather.
On a good day with no headwind, this combo becomes 38/14 -> 48/14. Realistically, just 2 gears are enough for a commute, they just need to be "just right" for you.
That's why I'm disappointed with the common negligence of front derailleurs on commuter hybrids with triples in general and on my Quick 4 in particular: Altus on the front and Deore on the rear, while most often I'm using FD. Could have achieved similar via 38/16 -> 38/12 but don't want to cross the chain.
Last edited by wombat_alex; 12-06-18 at 11:15 AM.
