Water Bottle Cage Noise
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Water Bottle Cage Noise
I noticed a squeaking noise during pedaling. I checked the bolts that hold the water bottle cages. I have two cages, one on the down tube and one on the seat tube. This is a carbon frameset.
The bolts were loose. I tightened all 4 bolts. Then after a 40 mile ride, it was quiet, no squeaking. Next ride at the 20 mile mark, it squeaks when I pedal. It got louder as I rode. I came back home to check the bolts and they became loose.
I took off the entire assembly. Now the water cages are off and so are the bolts.
Is there an easy fix? Other than to put the water bottles behind the saddle?
The bolts were loose. I tightened all 4 bolts. Then after a 40 mile ride, it was quiet, no squeaking. Next ride at the 20 mile mark, it squeaks when I pedal. It got louder as I rode. I came back home to check the bolts and they became loose.
I took off the entire assembly. Now the water cages are off and so are the bolts.
Is there an easy fix? Other than to put the water bottles behind the saddle?
#2
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loctite?
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I noticed a squeaking noise during pedaling. I checked the bolts that hold the water bottle cages. I have two cages, one on the down tube and one on the seat tube. This is a carbon frameset.
The bolts were loose. I tightened all 4 bolts. Then after a 40 mile ride, it was quiet, no squeaking. Next ride at the 20 mile mark, it squeaks when I pedal. It got louder as I rode. I came back home to check the bolts and they became loose.
I took off the entire assembly. Now the water cages are off and so are the bolts.
Is there an easy fix? Other than to put the water bottles behind the saddle?
The bolts were loose. I tightened all 4 bolts. Then after a 40 mile ride, it was quiet, no squeaking. Next ride at the 20 mile mark, it squeaks when I pedal. It got louder as I rode. I came back home to check the bolts and they became loose.
I took off the entire assembly. Now the water cages are off and so are the bolts.
Is there an easy fix? Other than to put the water bottles behind the saddle?
Last edited by Bob the Mech; 09-05-20 at 05:54 PM.
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I was also thinking a lock washer, along with any sort of grease. Even Vaseline might work. Simple stuff first...
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Properly-torqued bolts should not loosen up. To what torque did you tighten the bolts? You should be using a torque wrench on a carbon frame.
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Tighten the bolts to maximum 0.94-1.23 kgf.cm / 0.09-0.12 Nm / 0.81-1.06 in.lbs torque with 4mm Allen Wrench...my mini torque wrench goes up by a factor of 1 Nm increment at a time...I couldn't find 0.09 Nm on there with a microscope This is a non-critical fitting, bolts go into preset alloy threads in the carbon assembly. So feel tells me when they are tight enough...and about 25 years of experience
I do use a torque wrench for pretty much everything else...Got one, might as well use it
I do use a torque wrench for pretty much everything else...Got one, might as well use it
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My first thought - you did grease the threads, didn't you? There is only one metal-to-metal interface on a bike I don't grease - the flats on square taper spindles and cranks. Everything else get (usually) marine boat trailer grease or whatever is on hand. (Hmmm - not true. I don't grease any of the clamps around the handlebars; stem, brake levers. accessories ... But all their fasteners, yes.)
#11
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Metal bottles , plastic cage, plastic bottles, metal cages are fine..
My guess: they used riv nuts.. they expand further into the hole when you tighten the bolt .. if they are loose..
a flat washer against the outside flange (of riv nut) when thread part is pulled up is how they expand..
My guess: they used riv nuts.. they expand further into the hole when you tighten the bolt .. if they are loose..
a flat washer against the outside flange (of riv nut) when thread part is pulled up is how they expand..
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-06-20 at 09:53 AM.
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Also, if I'm chasing creaks, I definitely lube the handlebar lightly before clamping. Same with seat rails. I've never had them slip.
OP, one drop of blue loctite on the bolts and your problem is solved.
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You should still use a torque wrench, as the RivNuts for the mounting bolts are usually a friction fit between the RivNut and the frame. Too much torque and they can break free and spin instead of securing the bolt.
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They make a purple loctite as well. A little harder to source, need to order on line, but that is what Campy speced for my crank bolt.
#19
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My first thought - you did grease the threads, didn't you? There is only one metal-to-metal interface on a bike I don't grease - the flats on square taper spindles and cranks. Everything else get (usually) marine boat trailer grease or whatever is on hand. (Hmmm - not true. I don't grease any of the clamps around the handlebars; stem, brake levers. accessories ... But all their fasteners, yes.)
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Torque Wrench vs. "Feel"
Tighten the bolts to maximum 0.94-1.23 kgf.cm / 0.09-0.12 Nm / 0.81-1.06 in.lbs torque with 4mm Allen Wrench...my mini torque wrench goes up by a factor of 1 Nm increment at a time...I couldn't find 0.09 Nm on there with a microscope This is a non-critical fitting, bolts go into preset alloy threads in the carbon assembly. So feel tells me when they are tight enough...and about 25 years of experience
I do use a torque wrench for pretty much everything else...Got one, might as well use it
I do use a torque wrench for pretty much everything else...Got one, might as well use it