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How much do you care about bike weight?

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How much do you care about bike weight?

Old 09-20-20, 12:53 PM
  #76  
Bah Humbug
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Originally Posted by ZHVelo
Everyone is chasing KOMs somehow. I am currently on a climbing program to improve my PR on my local climb. Not to mention on all the Alp passes, those 1.2kg add up.
I'm literally not. All I want is more watts to use when I get back to, y'know, real racing. The kind that counts.
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Old 09-20-20, 12:57 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by ZHVelo
I probably won't buy any times soon but I have been looking for some time and have 2 on my shortlist now, cost almost the same. Components are equivalent. Already test rode one, the other I will too at some point.

However, one is 1.2kg lighter. The other one isn't heavy for a disc brake endurance bike (8.4kg) but 7.2kg is just very, very light. Now I know I am neither a pro nor does weight actually matter that much, but I do ride a lot up. For sure the light one (sadly I only test rode it on the flat, I will go back to go uphill too) feels light. It was a nice ride. But yes, what do people here think? Should I be less swayed by the weight (depending on test ride, at same weight I would go for the other one).
I start most seasons at 190 lbs and my riding weight is about 182 lbs. It takes months of hard riding to get that weight off and when I hit the right weight my riding improves dramatically. I have everything from steel to carbon fiber to aluminum to titanium bikes and have never notices any improvement in my riding from the weight of the bike within reason
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Old 09-20-20, 01:01 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by ZHVelo
Everyone is chasing KOMs somehow. I am currently on a climbing program to improve my PR on my local climb. Not to mention on all the Alp passes, those 1.2kg add up.
Buying a lighter bike to beat a PR really isnt much of an achievement ;-)
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Old 09-20-20, 02:05 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by sced
Physics and common sense disagree with you.
Neither, actually, but nobody is going to force you to buy a lighter bike.
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Old 09-20-20, 02:06 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by ZHVelo
I probably won't buy any times soon but I have been looking for some time and have 2 on my shortlist now, cost almost the same. Components are equivalent. Already test rode one, the other I will too at some point.

However, one is 1.2kg lighter. The other one isn't heavy for a disc brake endurance bike (8.4kg) but 7.2kg is just very, very light. Now I know I am neither a pro nor does weight actually matter that much, but I do ride a lot up. For sure the light one (sadly I only test rode it on the flat, I will go back to go uphill too) feels light. It was a nice ride. But yes, what do people here think? Should I be less swayed by the weight (depending on test ride, at same weight I would go for the other one).
Guessing that the lighter one is an Endurace?
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Old 09-20-20, 04:21 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by MinnMan
Guessing that the lighter one is an Endurace?
No, the equivalent Endurace is heavier, somewhere in between.

It is a Rose Reveal Six Disc. I was quite impressed on the test ride. One can certainly feel the difference (vs my current ca. 8.8kg bike).

Last edited by ZHVelo; 09-20-20 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 09-20-20, 07:22 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by ZHVelo
I probably won't buy any times soon but I have been looking for some time and have 2 on my shortlist now, cost almost the same. Components are equivalent. Already test rode one, the other I will too at some point.

However, one is 1.2kg lighter. The other one isn't heavy for a disc brake endurance bike (8.4kg) but 7.2kg is just very, very light. Now I know I am neither a pro nor does weight actually matter that much, but I do ride a lot up. For sure the light one (sadly I only test rode it on the flat, I will go back to go uphill too) feels light. It was a nice ride. But yes, what do people here think? Should I be less swayed by the weight (depending on test ride, at same weight I would go for the other one).
Choices are part of your growth process that only you will be responsible for and to. Aside from that I made huge jump changes with a lot of research I went with a brand new Fezzarri bike carbon frame that I saved my money for a couple of years for, while I used my old steel frame bike as my commuter bike. They were far more bang for the buck for the best components I could buy with the lightest bomber wheels I could afford to try out myself on 100 mile endurance races to see what I could do. I started out in my first race last (had to wait in long line for restroom not knowing they had porta potties along the way) when the gun went off. I passed over 400 to 500 bicycles in the first 30 miles.
Someone told me that the most important to watch weight was anything that spins. I have found this to be true. I love my Mavic Ksyrum XL s they were the lightest wheel that Mavic made at rhe time. Riding this Fezzarri bike has been a joy to learn. I have learned so much about new capabilities and delights that are too numerous to mention in this post, from going at speeds of over 40 miles an hour to handling around curves to braking and to butter quick and reliable shifting that I couldn't believe it actually had that I had to double check, to such a smooth ride I thought I had shocks to quiet with no chain noise. It has been a bike that has been full of pleasant and joyful surprises many of which I didn't learn about or appreciate till after I had the bike for a while. I have probably had it for almost 7 years now and I feel like a new kid in a Ferrari. I have nothing to fault about it except I am looking to change the seat out for something more comfortable for 10- 12 hr. rides.
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Old 09-20-20, 07:34 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by RiceAWay
I start most seasons at 190 lbs and my riding weight is about 182 lbs. It takes months of hard riding to get that weight off and when I hit the right weight my riding improves dramatically. I have everything from steel to carbon fiber to aluminum to titanium bikes and have never notices any improvement in my riding from the weight of the bike within reason
yes. The most difference is anything that spins. Like wheels and this includes the chain, that when I tried this new lubricant oil that actually worked on it l was able to pedal up two hills dropping down a whole gear. I was amazed how much difference friction makes over time example a wheel that isnt quite true and rubs a little bit against one side of the brake pad. Being an experienced rider like yourself, I am sure you know what I mean.
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Old 09-20-20, 08:20 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by asgelle
Why don't I need water with a caad4 or litespeed?
People will pity you and give you theirs!
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Old 09-20-20, 08:34 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by ZHVelo
Not to mention on all the Alp passes, those 1.2kg add up.
To answer your question, a small difference in weight between two bikes isn't going to make my decision. It's something I'll take note of, but ~1 kg is low on my priorities in a bike. Same group, what are the wheels like on each? Even if you want to bring your own wheels it's real nice to have backups. How do they handle? Is one more aerodynamic?

My bike is 8.1 kg. With a power meter from back when they were heavy, hydro discs, and deep aero wheels. Also Di2, that doesn't affect the weight, but all of that stuff plus it handling the way I want a bike to, and I'm happy. They make a lighter frame but I didn't feel like it was worth the money, I've already got what I want.

I don't feel like it adds up, I know it does to a small extent but I don't feel a difference riding up with or without bottles. And I live in the American Alps. But I'm not chasing a kom, I'm going for time at whatever wattage I need. So my opinion doesn't apply so much to you.
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Old 09-20-20, 08:35 PM
  #86  
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I can feel a huge difference picking the bike up with/without water though! "Holy crap, you got fat!" as I lift it off the wall.
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Old 09-20-20, 09:04 PM
  #87  
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The thing is that all things are never really equal between two bikes especially if there's a weight difference. Test ride both a bit of distance if possible and see which handles better, that's the first step in which to lean towards. Someone else already mentioned wheels, what are the difference between them and is it significant. Sometimes a company has a cheaper bike that's heavier due to cheap post, stem and handlebars while the rest of the bike can be really nice but those three can easily make a 5-600g difference between two bikes and then it's weight not worth worrying about right now. Personally I also prefer the lightest bike, I'm a rather large guy, but lighter just feels faster at the end of the day and more fun to go fast on. Heavy is fine for certain types of bikes but not for what I ride road with. Ultimately what it really tends to come down to for me though is which one looks prettier. I spend a lot of time on my bikes and keep each one at least a decade if I can help it or longer and I like one that appeals to my eye and that will look sharper if some cool parts put on. But that's me.

Originally Posted by oldernwiser
yes. The most difference is anything that spins. Like wheels and this includes the chain, that when I tried this new lubricant oil that actually worked on it l was able to pedal up two hills dropping down a whole gear. I was amazed how much difference friction makes over time example a wheel that isnt quite true and rubs a little bit against one side of the brake pad. Being an experienced rider like yourself, I am sure you know what I mean.
The two most people miss is when hubs start to tighten up a touch and a little lube in the der pulleys. Every tune I ever did when I pulled the wheels to true them I gave the axles a spin and a quick adjust if needed and dripped some lube in the pulleys while doing the chain. The number of people who reported back just how much faster their bike was and it was the best tune ever was amazing, too many miss those free lunches.
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Old 09-20-20, 11:28 PM
  #88  
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I care about weight as I carry my bike into the house and up a flight a stairs. Bathroom scale says mine is 23 lbs. I know that's a good weight for me.
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Old 09-21-20, 12:44 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Russ Roth
...The two most people miss is when hubs start to tighten up a touch and a little lube in the der pulleys. Every tune I ever did when I pulled the wheels to true them I gave the axles a spin and a quick adjust if needed and dripped some lube in the pulleys while doing the chain. The number of people who reported back just how much faster their bike was and it was the best tune ever was amazing, too many miss those free lunches.
Yup, one of the best upgrades to my '89 Ironman was switching from the original draggy sintered bearing pulleys to inexpensive Tacx delrin sealed bearing pulleys. Best $14 I've spent on that bike, next to better tires (Soma Supple Vitesse for $14). No amount of cleaning and lubrication of any kind, or running the sintered bearings dry as Suntour advised, made any difference. But swapping pulleys did.

Shimano RDs with Centeron pulleys don't seem to get much if any benefit from Tacx or Bullseye pulleys. The original Shimano pulleys are already pretty good.
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Old 09-21-20, 12:58 AM
  #90  
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It matters, and a kilogram or more is going to make it just a bit easier uphill. Just finished a pretty hilly half-IM; a bike 1kg lighter would save, in total, about a minute over the course of the whole race; it would have been nice for sure, but having plucked the low hanging fruits of weight savings (my bike is 7,8kg which is pretty reasonable for a race bike with discs), it's also not something I'm going to spend many thousands on, either. A kilogram is at the same time not a really big time saving, but also not so small to just ignore it, either.

I'm not going to abandon discs in favour of rim brakes to get that weight and aero advantage, either, because great braking in all conditions is higher up on the list of priorities for me, but as long it doesn't conflict with other demands of the bike, weight matters. You feel it uphill. This is especially true for women, who are a bit lighter and that kilogram is a bigger percentage of total weight. If there were no complicating factors (such as features you want and, eh, looks) I'd go with the 1.2kg lighter one.
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Old 09-21-20, 02:00 AM
  #91  
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Depends on the route for me. I use my 5.8kg (12.8lbs) for hilly routes and my 8.2kg (18lbs) aero bike for flatter routes.

Taking this last weekend as an example, on Saturday I did 88km (55mi) and 652m (2139ft) on my aero bike, average 33km/h (20.5mph) and then on Sunday I did 118km (73mi) and 1413m (4635ft) on my lighter bike, average 32.3km/h (20mph). Similar average speeds but very different rides on very different bikes. Heavier, disc-braked aero vs lighter, rim-braked bike.

On the Saturday ride, the aero bike was ideal, I could have gone quicker but I was saving myself for the harder Sunday ride that included some tasty inclines. The lighter bike on Sunday was very welcome on those steeper gradients. I've done them on the aero bike and it does feel more of a chore - my fastest Strava times are on the lighter bike. Similarly, my fastest sprint times and flatter segment times are on the aero bike.

I could lose more weight myself, for sure, but at 51 I'm not as fanatical about it as I was when I was chasing my racing goals 25 years ago. Not that I'm heavy, I'm only 5kg above my 25yr old weight so now I'm at 65kg with a V02Max of 60 in my advancing years and I'm happy to allow myself the luxury of gaining incremental bike advantages now rather than focussing upon losing much more myself. That said, post-COVID when racing resumes, eventually, I will drop 1 or 2kg more to challenge for podium spots against local competition.
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Old 09-21-20, 07:31 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by sced
So when you ride past or don't make it back to where you started do you call your mommy to pick you up?
wow.

I was already kind of amazed at the misunderstanding and misuse of physics in @sced's arguments, but now we're on a whole different level. Much lower.
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Old 09-21-20, 11:38 AM
  #93  
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if it is under 21 lbs, that is light enough

ie, any road bike above entry level
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Old 09-21-20, 11:57 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by sced
Get the cheaper one. The way I think about bike weight is riding a heavier bike makes me stronger and lighter - truly.
Nope, a heavier bike just means you'll be going slower, especially on your ascents. The heavier weight of a bike doesn't dictate how much stronger you'll get while riding it, nor how much weight you'll lose, your power output will dictate that, regardless of the bike's weight.

Last week I did a solo ride to the top of the 3rd highest auto road in the world (Mt Evans in Colorado). I could've taken my lightest bike, but took the heavier endurance bike instead (and left the aero bars attached too). I took it because it was the most comfortable, weight had little to do with my choice. Now...if I were trying to keep up with others who I knew were riding their lightest bikes, my choice may have been different.

Last edited by Riveting; 09-21-20 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 09-21-20, 12:08 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by sced
Get the cheaper one. The way I think about bike weight is riding a heavier bike makes me stronger and lighter - truly. I have 3 classics that are 25lbish and a moderno that 17-18ish and they are all much loved and ridden.
That's certainly what I told myself this morning as I climbed 264m on my 40 pound Raleigh 3-speed
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Old 09-21-20, 12:18 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Riveting
Nope, a heavier bike just means you'll be going slower, especially on your ascents. .
Meaning.. you would be exerting yourself for a longer period of time to get to the top of the ascent?
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Old 09-21-20, 12:38 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
I'm good with anything 18 lbs. or lighter.

If you want to get stronger by riding a heavier bike, you need to ride a tandem with your wife.
True that!
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Old 09-21-20, 12:38 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
Meaning.. you would be exerting yourself for a longer period of time to get to the top of the ascent?
When you put it that way, you're right. For a given course and length, and a given power output, the heavier bike will make the ride a longer period, meaning more calories will be burned for the same ride.

Sooo...a devil's advocate might say that people riding light bikes aren't interested in fitness as much as they could be, and they may not really enjoy riding, since they really just want to be fast as possible so the ride will be over with as soon as possible?
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Old 09-21-20, 12:49 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Riveting
When you put it that way, you're right. For a given course and length, and a given power output, the heavier bike will make the ride a longer period, meaning more calories will be burned for the same ride.

Sooo...a devil's advocate might say that people riding light bikes aren't interested in fitness as much as they could be, and they may not really enjoy riding, since they really just want to be fast as possible so the ride will be over with as soon as possible?
I'm not claiming the latter, just that aside from racing or following specific training regimens.. iow, just grabbing a bike and going out on a course, dragging the heavier bike thru that course is likely more effort. Take your example of that solo ride you chose to do.. comfort aside, if instead you had grabbed your lighter bike, and (if you're familiar with Strava?), would you expect to have seen a lower, same, or higher resulting "Relative Effort" score versus having chosen your heavier bike?
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Old 09-21-20, 01:19 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Riveting
Last week I did a solo ride to the top of the 3rd highest auto road in the world (Mt Evans in Colorado).
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