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Loose Super Record headset spacer

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Old 04-30-24, 09:09 AM
  #26  
kanawa 
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Originally Posted by Bianchi84
I have a crazy question and please don't feel insulted; if these are caged bearings, are they oriented the right way?
never an insult! always appreciate the community learnings...

I believe they are installed correctly as pictured (?)
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Old 04-30-24, 09:20 AM
  #27  
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I'm not sure what the mystery is here or why this thread even got to two pages. Steerer is a bit long--which some of us might consider a good thing, as opposed to being too short. You have two choices: Cut it down a little or add a spacer. Just keep in mind that whatever you cut off can't be easily replaced.

This isn't rocket science.
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Old 04-30-24, 09:36 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by smd4
I'm not sure what the mystery is here or why this thread even got to two pages. Steerer is a bit long--which some of us might consider a good thing, as opposed to being too short. You have two choices: Cut it down a little or add a spacer. Just keep in mind that whatever you cut off can't be easily replaced.

This isn't rocket science.
rough crowd. Sorry to bother you. Will post elsewhere going forward
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Old 04-30-24, 09:38 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
never an insult! always appreciate the community learnings...

I believe they are installed correctly as pictured (?)
Looks right. Agree with spacers. It never hurts to check other explanations. Good luck with the build!
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Old 04-30-24, 09:47 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
rough crowd. Sorry to bother you. Will post elsewhere going forward
I'm not bothered, but your question was answered by the fourth post.
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Old 04-30-24, 10:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
English threaded headset. All threading correct. All races installed properly. Top nut tops out on top of threaded steerer, leaving the tabbed spacer floating between top race and nut with a bit of play. Haven’t seen additional spacers before but is that what is needed? Thx

As @Moe Zhoost pointed out, make sure you have the proper size balls installed. A Super Record headset uses 22 3/16" balls in each race. That looks like an Appel frame; I'd be shocked if Mike had sent it out with a too long steer tube.

If the balls are the proper size and number, I'd just add a spacer rather than trimming the steer tube.

Last edited by JohnDThompson; 04-30-24 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 04-30-24, 10:05 AM
  #32  
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0.1875"....it's not the bearings.
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Old 04-30-24, 10:14 AM
  #33  
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That small gap makes me wonder if the bike originally came with a centerpull brake. In any case, I agree that it's best to add a spacer rather than cut down the fork.
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Old 04-30-24, 01:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
Thx. In your examples I only see one steel spacer or no spacer. I thought on the SR headsets the fancy alloy one replaced the steel one. When they shipped SR new, only the fancy alloy one was included? Looking at NOS headsets that’s all that’s included.

Presumably if you needed to stack it out higher than that, it would be left for you or your shop to sort out(?).

Still puzzling out I’ve never seen both an alloy SR spacer and a steel one on the same stack and all my SR or NR bikes are set up with either 1 alloy or one steel spacer…

Thanks for all the guidance, community.
This was always an "as needed" strategy, you're right, they didn't come from the factory with both and yes when the steerer is/was too short they were often eliminated, the opposite direction of adding.

I thought I had some setup with both but didn't seem too. I would add a fancy one to a chrome one if possible before adding a chrome one to another.

At some point you have to improvise and go with the best solution you can live with. The tall stack on the Strawberry was a bit of a challenge with the extended HT and spacer, I originally intended to include a fancy spacer because everybody seems to like them including myself but once I tried to fit in, it didn't work out to me with so much steel bling and symmetry so it got the 2 chrome steels at the top and bottom of the spacer.

The centerpull theory is another good possibility.

Last edited by merziac; 04-30-24 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 04-30-24, 02:03 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by smd4
I'm not sure what the mystery is here or why this thread even got to two pages. Steerer is a bit long--which some of us might consider a good thing, as opposed to being too short. You have two choices: Cut it down a little or add a spacer. Just keep in mind that whatever you cut off can't be easily replaced.

This isn't rocket science.
Mostly agree here and also guilty but between OCD, splainal retentive and so many other factors including things like the bearing question being asked several times after being answered and not being able to see the forest for the trees, some of us struggle to get out of our own way at times it seems.

Last edited by merziac; 04-30-24 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 04-30-24, 03:47 PM
  #36  
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Bikemansplaining
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Old 04-30-24, 04:06 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Steel Charlie
Bikemansplaining
Correct, as I stated.

As long as the OP is still asking, I'll keep adding.
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Old 04-30-24, 05:24 PM
  #38  
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if you still have the bike apart and have 2 spare balls, running loose balls in the lower cup is a good thing.

just turn it upside down to assemble, and use a sticky grease.

/markp
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Old 04-30-24, 07:21 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by merziac
correct, as i stated.

As long as the op is still asking, i'll keep adding.

hahahahahahaha ! ! ! ! !
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Old 05-01-24, 03:22 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
rough crowd. Sorry to bother you. Will post elsewhere going forward
Do not post elsewhere. I’ve enjoyed the banter!
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Old 05-01-24, 05:52 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
0.1875"....it's not the bearings.
I assume that's the bearing size (3/16"). What does the stack height gap measure? It looks like 2mm or so.

Velobase tells me the SR stack height of 42.2mm is taller by a good margin than just about any headset any of us would install on a bike with vintage Campy. NR is 42.0. The Gran Sport is way shorter (34?). The current VO offering is shorter. All the current Tange options (the "go-to" for most of us) are shorter (e.g., the Tange Levin CDS is shorter by 12mm).

If you grind 2mm off the steerer, the world will not end.* But neither will it end if you add a 2mm aluminum spacer.

* You may go to hell (as one poster wanted), but not for that.
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Old 05-01-24, 06:24 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
Thx. In your examples I only see one steel spacer or no spacer. I thought on the SR headsets the fancy alloy one replaced the steel one. When they shipped SR new, only the fancy alloy one was included? Looking at NOS headsets that’s all that’s included.
The original Super Record Headset came with a thin steel spacer; later, it was changed to the thicker aluminum spacer to hold the #712/3 "Spacing spring for headset tool," to help prevent headset spanners from slipping and damaging the soft aluminum parts.
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Old 05-01-24, 09:59 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
I assume that's the bearing size (3/16"). What does the stack height gap measure? It looks like 2mm or so.

Velobase tells me the SR stack height of 42.2mm is taller by a good margin than just about any headset any of us would install on a bike with vintage Campy. NR is 42.0. The Gran Sport is way shorter (34?). The current VO offering is shorter. All the current Tange options (the "go-to" for most of us) are shorter (e.g., the Tange Levin CDS is shorter by 12mm).

If you grind 2mm off the steerer, the world will not end.* But neither will it end if you add a 2mm aluminum spacer.

* You may go to hell (as one poster wanted), but not for that.
I supposed SR was one of the tallest headsets, but was too lazy to confirm and post it. Thanks!
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Old 05-01-24, 11:11 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by kanawa
rough crowd. Sorry to bother you. Will post elsewhere going forward
Nah, just one of the many voices to be considered.
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Old 05-01-24, 11:30 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
The original Super Record Headset came with a thin steel spacer; later, it was changed to the thicker aluminum spacer to hold the #712/3 "Spacing spring for headset tool," to help prevent headset spanners from slipping and damaging the soft aluminum parts.
Aha! That’s what those were for.
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