Big Front Disc on a Gravel Bike?
02-08-19, 04:51 AM
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Big Front Disc on a Gravel Bike?
Been looking into whether or not it's worth running a larger front disc on the front of my Toughroad GX1. The bike is currently equipped with the stock 160mm front and back.
I just want a bit more confidence when on trails and rocky descents as well as improving modulation and was wondering if this would make much of a difference.
Has anyone got a 180mm on their gravel bike?
I know most CX riders prefer 140mm or 160mm to save a bit of weight.
I just want a bit more confidence when on trails and rocky descents as well as improving modulation and was wondering if this would make much of a difference.
Has anyone got a 180mm on their gravel bike?
I know most CX riders prefer 140mm or 160mm to save a bit of weight.
02-08-19, 05:33 AM
#2
Gravel Rocks
Might be some advantage with Mechanical Discs - not needed with Hydraulic IMHO.
02-08-19, 10:06 AM
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Probably not needed. But if you're experiencing pad fade, then maybe a little more thermal mass in terms of a larger rotor would help. Also going bigger then stock could stress your fork more since now you have more braking torque.
02-08-19, 10:36 AM
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^That^
Most road/CX forks are not rated for 180mm. And unless you're touring or weigh a great deal and are bombing down hills, there's no need for the rotor diameter. Odds are on a gravel tire, off-road, the wheel will lose traction before you run out of braking power with a 160mm rotor.
Most road/CX forks are not rated for 180mm. And unless you're touring or weigh a great deal and are bombing down hills, there's no need for the rotor diameter. Odds are on a gravel tire, off-road, the wheel will lose traction before you run out of braking power with a 160mm rotor.
02-08-19, 12:16 PM
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I'd go with 180 mm or larger if my bike supported it.
Always go with the biggest brakes your vehicle supports. It's the number 2 upgrade after tires.
But yes, most gravel bikes only support 160's.
Always go with the biggest brakes your vehicle supports. It's the number 2 upgrade after tires.
But yes, most gravel bikes only support 160's.
02-08-19, 12:27 PM
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Are you guys crazy. Anytime that that you are in anything slippery, like gravel, Sand, Grass oh, you never used front brake hard because it will immediately lock up and now you're down on the pavement or gravel.
You always use the rear brake As much as possible.Learn to ride a bicycle you don't know what you're doing. Go ahead and spend lots of money on new components because you think that that is what's going to make you a better bicyclist.It's knowing how to ride a bicycle and technique that makes you go fast.
02-08-19, 12:40 PM
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Are you guys crazy. Anytime that that you are in anything slippery, like gravel, Sand, Grass oh, you never used front brake hard because it will immediately lock up and now you're down on the pavement or gravel.
You always use the rear brake As much as possible.Learn to ride a bicycle you don't know what you're doing. Go ahead and spend lots of money on new components because you think that that is what's going to make you a better bicyclist.It's knowing how to ride a bicycle and technique that makes you go fast.
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02-08-19, 12:45 PM
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I plan on going from 160mm to 180mm on the front. I'm 220 lbs. and I think the extra braking power + cooling would be useful. And it's cheap.
02-08-19, 01:17 PM
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02-08-19, 01:21 PM
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It would be cheap, the post to post adapter is £6 and I can get a Shimano SLX rotor for £12. Cheap as anything.
02-08-19, 02:06 PM
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Yeah I'm not sure why it's just been touted as expensive and crazy. I was just wondering what people thought of it and if anyone has done it to their Gravel bike. I know it's the norm with XC bikes but I wasn't sure if it's a bit overkill for gravel.
It would be cheap, the post to post adapter is £6 and I can get a Shimano SLX rotor for £12. Cheap as anything.
It would be cheap, the post to post adapter is £6 and I can get a Shimano SLX rotor for £12. Cheap as anything.
02-08-19, 03:03 PM
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02-08-19, 07:45 PM
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Are you guys crazy. Anytime that that you are in anything slippery, like gravel, Sand, Grass oh, you never used front brake hard because it will immediately lock up and now you're down on the pavement or gravel.
You always use the rear brake As much as possible.Learn to ride a bicycle you don't know what you're doing. Go ahead and spend lots of money on new components because you think that that is what's going to make you a better bicyclist.It's knowing how to ride a bicycle and technique that makes you go fast.
I would encourage anyone who wants to learn proper braking technique on gravel to watch the Skills with Phil flat turn video.
-Tim-
02-08-19, 07:53 PM
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I think if I killed a white crowned sparrow like that, I would have a difficult time getting back on the bike. That was a real sad ending to the video.
I've thought about a 180 mm front disc, but I think the brake would become too grabby. (I put 160 mm ones on my mountain bike for that reason.)
I've thought about a 180 mm front disc, but I think the brake would become too grabby. (I put 160 mm ones on my mountain bike for that reason.)
Last edited by Cyclist0108; 02-08-19 at 07:56 PM.
02-08-19, 08:08 PM
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02-08-19, 08:17 PM
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02-08-19, 08:23 PM
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Non omnino gravis
I have about 18,000 miles with a 180F/160R setup-- split almost evenly between mechanical (Shimano CX77,) hybrid (TRP HY/RD,) and hydro (Hope RX4.) I love it. I have no desire to change.
A bigger front rotor is not "more grabby," regardless of what kind of caliper is squeezing it. It just makes it so the lever feel is the same for both hands-- and the pads wear out at around the same rate.
I mean, try to find a car that has the same size brake rotors front and rear-- and as a bicycle does the bulk of the braking with the front, why shouldn't that rotor be bigger?
A bigger front rotor is not "more grabby," regardless of what kind of caliper is squeezing it. It just makes it so the lever feel is the same for both hands-- and the pads wear out at around the same rate.
I mean, try to find a car that has the same size brake rotors front and rear-- and as a bicycle does the bulk of the braking with the front, why shouldn't that rotor be bigger?
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02-08-19, 08:26 PM
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02-08-19, 08:40 PM
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Non omnino gravis
In most cases it appears to be clearance-- the top edge of the rotor is usually about a millimeter away from the leg. But with full CF forks, there may be some other structural cause for concern. My fork is steel, and would easily clear a 203mm rotor.
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02-08-19, 10:37 PM
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I have about 18,000 miles with a 180F/160R setup-- split almost evenly between mechanical (Shimano CX77,) hybrid (TRP HY/RD,) and hydro (Hope RX4.) I love it. I have no desire to change.
A bigger front rotor is not "more grabby," regardless of what kind of caliper is squeezing it. It just makes it so the lever feel is the same for both hands-- and the pads wear out at around the same rate.
I mean, try to find a car that has the same size brake rotors front and rear-- and as a bicycle does the bulk of the braking with the front, why shouldn't that rotor be bigger?
A bigger front rotor is not "more grabby," regardless of what kind of caliper is squeezing it. It just makes it so the lever feel is the same for both hands-- and the pads wear out at around the same rate.
I mean, try to find a car that has the same size brake rotors front and rear-- and as a bicycle does the bulk of the braking with the front, why shouldn't that rotor be bigger?