Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Cinelli 1a stem handlebar bolt spinning

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Cinelli 1a stem handlebar bolt spinning

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-18-23, 01:33 PM
  #51  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,046

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4512 Post(s)
Liked 6,387 Times in 3,672 Posts
Originally Posted by jPrichard10
Well, I gave up with this stem, but not in the way you think.

The best thing to do was to remove the bolt, inspect for damage and try to put the bolt back in a way that would hold better the next time around. Using different Allen wrenches, I slowly got the nut to hold to make a tiny bit of progress. Went from a 2mm Allen to a 4.5mm Allen with this grip:

At this point, I wasn't able to pull hard enough to get the nut to "stick" anymore. But what I was able to do was mount some handlebars in it. Initially, these were just supposed to be a passive wedge, as my Allen wrenches marred the stem something awful. But with diminishing returns as they were, I gave up and started cranking down the other way on the bolt.



After a little struggle, I got the nut to stop spinning and cranked down hard. The nut is now embedded much deeper in the stem than before, a good sign that I might have some luck removing it someday.

But that's not my plan. I can hopefully go the rest of my life without ever loosening this bolt now. If the bars go, the stems go, and what I have put together let no man separate.
If you got it tight the way it is, you should be good to go.
merziac is offline  
Old 11-18-23, 01:41 PM
  #52  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,046

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4512 Post(s)
Liked 6,387 Times in 3,672 Posts
Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Im trying visualize this Skip. Do you mean the wedge is tightened into the space in the pinch area from both sides?
Use the wedge end of a stem in the hole where the bar goes to expand it and put pressure on the bolt and hold it to loosen the nut side.

You would probably have to shim it and that will also put pressure on the nut side so it may bind the back side too much.
merziac is offline  
Old 11-18-23, 01:46 PM
  #53  
Johno59
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 852

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times in 185 Posts
Punch head and drill.

Centre punch the cap end, drill a 2mm hole say 5mm down. Force a allen key into drilled hole and rotate the nut off and grease the nut(not the head) before replacing.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 11-18-23, 01:49 PM
  #54  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,046

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4512 Post(s)
Liked 6,387 Times in 3,672 Posts
Originally Posted by Johno59
Centre punch the cap end, drill a 2mm hole say 5mm down. Force a allen key into drilled hole and rotate the nut off and grease the nut(not the head) before replacing.
Its already done and ready to move on.
merziac is offline  
Old 11-18-23, 02:06 PM
  #55  
SurferRosa
señor miembro
 
SurferRosa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,625

Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3889 Post(s)
Liked 6,488 Times in 3,211 Posts
Originally Posted by Johno59
Centre punch the cap end, drill a 2mm hole...
Why wouldn't y'all just do this:

Originally Posted by jPrichard10


SurferRosa is offline  
Likes For SurferRosa:
Old 11-18-23, 04:22 PM
  #56  
smontanaro 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,096

Bikes: many

Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 1,395 Times in 762 Posts
Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Im trying visualize this Skip. Do you mean the wedge is tightened into the space in the pinch area from both sides?
Probably a bad explanation on my part. Here are 1,000 words:

__________________
Monti Special
smontanaro is offline  
Likes For smontanaro:
Old 11-18-23, 04:31 PM
  #57  
jdawginsc 
Edumacator
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,812

Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2440 Post(s)
Liked 3,131 Times in 1,970 Posts
Originally Posted by smontanaro
Probably a bad explanation on my part. Here are 1,000 words:

Ahhh! For some reason I was thinking the bar was still in it. That makes perfect sense now...and a solid idea.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super












jdawginsc is offline  
Likes For jdawginsc:
Old 11-19-23, 04:36 PM
  #58  
CroMo Mike 
All Campy All The Time
 
CroMo Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 1,417

Bikes: Listed in my signature.

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 177 Post(s)
Liked 114 Times in 63 Posts
If you spread that bar clamp too far open, the stem is likely to crack and break later.
__________________
My C&V Bikes:
1972 Bottecchia Professional, 1972 Legnano Olympiade Record,
1982 Colnago Super, 1987 Bottecchia Team C-Record,
1988 Pinarello Montello, 1990 Masi Nuova Strada Super Record,
1995 Bianchi Campione d'Italia, 1995 DeBernardi Thron









CroMo Mike is online now  
Old 11-19-23, 06:46 PM
  #59  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,046

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4512 Post(s)
Liked 6,387 Times in 3,672 Posts
Originally Posted by CroMo Mike
If you spread that bar clamp too far open, the stem is likely to crack and break later.
It was being spread with the stuck bolt in place, it wasn't being over stressed.
merziac is offline  
Old 11-19-23, 06:47 PM
  #60  
jPrichard10 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Portland, Cascadia
Posts: 514
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 258 Times in 112 Posts
Originally Posted by smontanaro
Probably a bad explanation on my part. Here are 1,000 words:

This is what I was imagining you saying, but couldn't wrap my head around it because I don't own any quill stems for 1 1/8" head tubes. Regular quill stems wouldn't get close to expanding enough
jPrichard10 is offline  
Old 11-19-23, 06:57 PM
  #61  
smontanaro 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,096

Bikes: many

Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 1,395 Times in 762 Posts
Originally Posted by jPrichard10
This is what I was imagining you saying, but couldn't wrap my head around it because I don't own any quill stems for 1 1/8" head tubes. Regular quill stems wouldn't get close to expanding enough
That's a one-inch stem. In fact, I keep that riser stem with my tools. I use it on occasion to help round out seat tubes which have been ovalized.
__________________
Monti Special
smontanaro is offline  
Likes For smontanaro:
Old 11-19-23, 07:00 PM
  #62  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,046

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4512 Post(s)
Liked 6,387 Times in 3,672 Posts
Originally Posted by jPrichard10
This is what I was imagining you saying, but couldn't wrap my head around it because I don't own any quill stems for 1 1/8" head tubes. Regular quill stems wouldn't get close to expanding enough
It would only need shims to be made, easy peasy, just like shimming mismatch bars.


merziac is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.