Beanboy

Have front and rear fenders, and two sets of stays. What I don't have is any brackets for the fender-to-stay connection.

Any suggestions as to how to rig something that would work?

Have bottom bracket/rear brake connections worked out for the rear fender, and have the front fork connection worked out as well.

Doesn't appear to be any mounting kits available online/local LBS don't have anything that would be compatible.

Any thoughts/suggestions? This is for the beater rain bike, so I rather not go out and buy a new complete set of fenders for it.

fietsbob

I doubt they used the same hardware forever..,
so, minus pictures, I have no idea about what you need.

I Cannibalized struts, and hardware off a discarded Zefal, the part that used to
loop around the dropout eyelet bolt, is now on one of the 2 mounting bolts
On my B&M taillight,
the 2_ 2 wire clips are on the waterbottle bosses
on the back of my Bike Friday with the struts bent and cut off,
to have a rack mounted light , sitting
behind the waterbottle cage, on a bike that has no Rack.

Check the basement of another bike shop, that is where I found my stuff.

gyozadude

You're talking about the rear fender near the seat-stay bridge?

My home made stay connector:

Step 1. I used some thin strapping metal like the kind used on metal hose clamps. I keep stock on old parts, especially if they are stainless. I think these came off an old car some years ago. I cut off head section of the strapping metal, about 2 inches long, maybe a small bit shorter; then I flatten it. The head section is solid and not perforated like the rest of the strap.

Step 2: I mark a 60% line across the strap with a marker where I plan to bend it. On the longer side, I drill two 1/4 inch holes with a steel drilling bit in my press and then use a dremel or rat-tail file to grind the connector between the two holes to make a slot. I will drill a single hole on the remaining 40% length. Then I'll clamp and bend to 90 degrees or so at that mark.

Step 3: Pre-fit the rear fender into place and hopefully you have clearance for the tire plus a little more for a flat screwhead and thin washer underneath. I place the L-bracket I just made on the fender and determine a spot to drill the fender. I faced my L-bracket pointing toward my seat tube. That seemed to lead away from the closest point of contact between tire and fender. Yours may vary. Then I drill the fender.

Step 4. Get a stainless flat head screw and stainless washer and nut. Attach the L-bracket to the fender loosely pushed the flathead screw from underneath the fender. Then get a couple of curved-face, old, standard nut mount caliper brake washers (you can still source them at the LBS or online I think) for the rear stay, and then with brake-mount stay washers, and then a M6 bolt, washer and nut, I attach the L-bracket snug to the seat-stay. And then remove the rear wheel and tighten the flathead bolt/nut to now support the fender. Put the rear wheel back in, and that should now give you a snug rear fender that won't flap around. You can repeat for the front, but you may need a different brake/front fork washer with less curvature than for the rear stays.

If you are using caliper brakes with recessed bolts, you will likely need to remove the calipers, and insert L-bracket against the flat part of the brake bolt braze-on of the stay or front fork as necessary. You won't need curved traditional brake bolt mount washers.

cny-bikeman

Is this perhaps what you need (from Harris Cycle)?

https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/fenders.html

FE2107 Stainless Drawbolts with nuts, set of 8 14.95

Crankycrank

I'm not sure of what exactly you need either but try looking up spare parts for SKS brand fenders. Some of their models are fairly similar and they sell replacement parts for almost all their fenders.