Crank tool ruined on super-stuck crank
#26
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Yes, that's a really weird right hand cup. Those two really rusted bits look to be old chainguard supports. Once you get the lockring off those supports should come right off. With luck, lots of luck, the cup might just unscrew.
Keep us posted as to whether yo get that cup off or not.
Good luck.
Cheers
Keep us posted as to whether yo get that cup off or not.
Good luck.
Cheers
#27
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The adjusting ring on the DS is probably there just to hold the chain guard mount on.
#30
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Place a few drops of diesel fuel on the threaded parts and, it will dissolve the rust away.
#31
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The binding you felt with the 2 dollar tool was likely soft (not heat-treated) steel galling (cold welding) on soft steel. The steel was of such a poor grade (or perhaps you have a lot more arm strength than most) that you just ripped the threads off the tool.
That forged steel crank arm, and the beefy frame construction are wild. That is one "built like a tank" bike. Where are you? Is the bike locally made?
Pet Peeve: It seems to me that everyone should add their location to their profile. The site would be a lot more useful and interesting. My 2 cents.
That forged steel crank arm, and the beefy frame construction are wild. That is one "built like a tank" bike. Where are you? Is the bike locally made?
Pet Peeve: It seems to me that everyone should add their location to their profile. The site would be a lot more useful and interesting. My 2 cents.
#32
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Thread Starter
T.
That forged steel crank arm, and the beefy frame construction are wild. That is one "built like a tank" bike. Where are you? Is the bike locally made?
Pet Peeve: It seems to me that everyone should add their location to their profile. The site would be a lot more useful and interesting. My 2 cents.
That forged steel crank arm, and the beefy frame construction are wild. That is one "built like a tank" bike. Where are you? Is the bike locally made?
Pet Peeve: It seems to me that everyone should add their location to their profile. The site would be a lot more useful and interesting. My 2 cents.
The newer bikes are mostly from mainland China. I avoided getting these, because they have cheap 6/7 speeds shifters and derailleurs that could break or go misalign very easily in the crowded bike racks.
Last edited by mtb_addict; 02-18-20 at 12:07 AM.
#33
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A note about removing cranks and pedals: Time can be your friend. I've put penetrating oil on things that were stuck good, tried again in a month, and they came off easily. This includes a crank arm on my spouse's Bianchi, and innumerable pedals from salvaged bikes. Also, bigger molecules will eventually creep in, but take longer.
I've seen steel cotterless crank arms on bikes in the US.
I've seen steel cotterless crank arms on bikes in the US.
#34
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i am in southeast Asia. This bike could be of Taiwan origin. i see alot of these old bikes still going strong, being used by ordinary people everyday to get around.
The newer bikes are mostly from mainland China. I avoided getting these, because they have cheap 6/7 speeds shifters and derailleurs that could break or go misalign very easily in the crowded bike racks.
The newer bikes are mostly from mainland China. I avoided getting these, because they have cheap 6/7 speeds shifters and derailleurs that could break or go misalign very easily in the crowded bike racks.
I started my biking career with what is known as an Ashtabula crank: a solid piece of steel forged into the shape of an "S". Then I moved on to a steel cottered crank. Then I moved on to aluminum. But some of those old bikes are still going. I'm aesthetically restoring fully functional bikes now from 1973 and 1978. I agree with you about choosing a bike for purpose. In this case, to holdup over time. The lugs on the bottom bracket of your bike, as well as the chain guard, look very strong. I hope your bike gets back together in good shape. With luck, you'll be able to ride it for many years.
#35
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So you say that the rhs (also called "Drive Side" or DS) is weird? How?
You should be able to get that cup and cone off with a lockring wrench. If it won't come off there's a product here called Kroil, by Cano. There's also Liquid Wrench, and other penetrating oil products. I'm sure you have some where you are. If no commercial product is available, there is a mix that has worked for a lot of people: half and half mix of acetone (nail polish remover) and ATF (automatic transmission fluid). The acetone will strip paint, so be careful. If you can get the non drive side out, and the spindle and bearings, you should be able to apply penetrating oil from both the inside and the outside of those threads. They should then come off.
Good luck.
You should be able to get that cup and cone off with a lockring wrench. If it won't come off there's a product here called Kroil, by Cano. There's also Liquid Wrench, and other penetrating oil products. I'm sure you have some where you are. If no commercial product is available, there is a mix that has worked for a lot of people: half and half mix of acetone (nail polish remover) and ATF (automatic transmission fluid). The acetone will strip paint, so be careful. If you can get the non drive side out, and the spindle and bearings, you should be able to apply penetrating oil from both the inside and the outside of those threads. They should then come off.
Good luck.
#36
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Percussive Maintenance!
So are Jacobs chuck wedges. Another thing to try is to get the extractor properly installed and as tight as you dare, then hit the drive end of the tool squarely with a hand sledge; the vibration plus the impact against the spindle by the tool will often pop the taper loose.
Edit: Plus hitting things with hammers can be an anger outlet.
Edit: Plus hitting things with hammers can be an anger outlet.
#37
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This hack works! I did hit it a bit harder than a "tap" and I used a 14" pipe wrench, but it worked. Thanks for the tip. DD
#38
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#40
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Had one of those self extractors do the same thing, they only engage half the threads the proper tool threads into..
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