1983/84 Raleigh Competition - Build Question
#1
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1983/84 Raleigh Competition - Build Question
Hello! It's been a while since I've posted but it's good to see so many familiar names still active.
I'm riding something modern these days (an AC Space Horse), but am looking to get back onto something classic and work on my wrenching skills. I'm looking locally at a 1983/84 Raleigh Competition in their 555SL tubing, 25", frame/fork/headset/bars/seat post for about $150. It might be a hint big for me (I'm usually a 61cm), but I love the look and thought that taking on a project like this might be a good gateway into gaining knowledge and developing my skills (I've no experience, but am foolishly optimistic, armed only with a couple books and Youtube).
Am I nuts or is this doable? I'm in no rush, so I'd be buying parts and tools as I go, looking for deals and perhaps joining my local co-op. Has anyone (everyone?) done this before...any thoughts/cautionary tales/caveats to share?
Thanks so much!
I'm riding something modern these days (an AC Space Horse), but am looking to get back onto something classic and work on my wrenching skills. I'm looking locally at a 1983/84 Raleigh Competition in their 555SL tubing, 25", frame/fork/headset/bars/seat post for about $150. It might be a hint big for me (I'm usually a 61cm), but I love the look and thought that taking on a project like this might be a good gateway into gaining knowledge and developing my skills (I've no experience, but am foolishly optimistic, armed only with a couple books and Youtube).
Am I nuts or is this doable? I'm in no rush, so I'd be buying parts and tools as I go, looking for deals and perhaps joining my local co-op. Has anyone (everyone?) done this before...any thoughts/cautionary tales/caveats to share?
Thanks so much!
#2
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Can’t wait to see the photos if you buy it. At $150 I’d get moving on the purchase, If it’s in good shape it won’t sit long at that price. If it does prove to be too big you can always flip it and get your money back. The bike is fairly straightforward to work on and help from us on the forum is easy to get. I’ve refurbished an 83, an 84, and an 85 as well as a couple of Prestiges and Super Courses. You can do it, and these Raleigh USAs are a fun place to hone your skills. You say 83 or 84, is it Green or is it White with chrome?
edit: I just read more carefully, I thought it the purchase was for the whole bike. My mistake, I’d wait for a more complete example, tire and wheel clearances can be touchy on this model.
.
edit: I just read more carefully, I thought it the purchase was for the whole bike. My mistake, I’d wait for a more complete example, tire and wheel clearances can be touchy on this model.
.
Last edited by Pcampeau; 08-04-23 at 12:20 PM.
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#3
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If you ride a 61 cm, why do you want a 25 inch (64 cm) frame? The frame is too big. Also what the heck is 555sl tubing? I assume it's some sort of chrome moly but you might want to look into this. For $150, you can find a quality frame in your size. I'd wait.
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#4
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Here's the frame in question. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225575193741
The seller has the extra parts that came off the bike (that had been set up as a time trial). Ironically, just this morning I found an old message from another BF member with a 75 Raleigh International in much more complete condition, and closer to my size at 62 (specs similar to my existing Space Horse). That's better geo for me and better fit for my rando purposes and it's still available. That's likely a better way to go...?
The seller has the extra parts that came off the bike (that had been set up as a time trial). Ironically, just this morning I found an old message from another BF member with a 75 Raleigh International in much more complete condition, and closer to my size at 62 (specs similar to my existing Space Horse). That's better geo for me and better fit for my rando purposes and it's still available. That's likely a better way to go...?
#5
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Here's the frame in question. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225575193741
The seller has the extra parts that came off the bike (that had been set up as a time trial). Ironically, just this morning I found an old message from another BF member with a 75 Raleigh International in much more complete condition, and closer to my size at 62 (specs similar to my existing Space Horse). That's better geo for me and better fit for my rando purposes and it's still available. That's likely a better way to go...?
The seller has the extra parts that came off the bike (that had been set up as a time trial). Ironically, just this morning I found an old message from another BF member with a 75 Raleigh International in much more complete condition, and closer to my size at 62 (specs similar to my existing Space Horse). That's better geo for me and better fit for my rando purposes and it's still available. That's likely a better way to go...?
#6
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Better to get the right size or it will keep you from fully enjoying the bike.
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I have the 83 Competition and an 83 Super Course I also have a 79 and 74 SC The 83s are just as nice the earlier ones. The 83 Comp weighs about 23 to 24 pounds depending on frame.
#8
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OP’s subject frameset is a 1983. Nothing wrong with the Raleigh USA-engineered 555sl tubing. My ‘84 Competition is a perfect balance of comfort, stability and responsiveness.
$150 is a bit steep for this frameset but within reason if you’ve fallen in love with it. If you have to pay shipping on top of this, then we’re talking too much.
$150 is a bit steep for this frameset but within reason if you’ve fallen in love with it. If you have to pay shipping on top of this, then we’re talking too much.
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#9
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I am with you 100% on avoiding a frame that is larger than ideal for one's leg or torso length. As much as I loved my Peugeot PKN-10 Competition, I was always bothered by the fact that the frame was a size too tall and too long for me. A minimum-reach handlebar stem helped with the length/stretch issue, but I am much happier on a 55cm C-T bike than a 57 or 58.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#10
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i won't comment on frame size, except to note that Raleigh typically measured their frames center to top. Since we're only talking about an inch difference in the two frames, I'd say you could ride either just fine, but the smaller frame would be more optimal for you.
You mentioned you're looking to build a "rando" bike. That means different things to different people. The first thing that comes to my mind when I hear rando is tire width - typically much wider than a road racing bike for comfort and "all road" riding. The mid-80s's Competition won't fit as wide a tire as an early 70's International.
I've been preaching for years that nowadays you should start with the tire size first, then find the frame that will accomodate them.
You mentioned you're looking to build a "rando" bike. That means different things to different people. The first thing that comes to my mind when I hear rando is tire width - typically much wider than a road racing bike for comfort and "all road" riding. The mid-80s's Competition won't fit as wide a tire as an early 70's International.
I've been preaching for years that nowadays you should start with the tire size first, then find the frame that will accomodate them.
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#11
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Without the knowledge and a stash of parts, building a bike from a frame and fork can be a difficult and expensive way to go. A complete bike would be easier for a first project. Dissembling a bike is the best way to start learning.
If it's not to big this might be a good place to start.
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/...651313288.html
If it's not to big this might be a good place to start.
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/...651313288.html
#12
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As I age I have migrated to larger frames but shorter reach stems and finally north roadish bars. I too think going up an inch in size should be quite manageable. It might even be more comfortable.
#13
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I wonder what max tire size the International could handle, ideally with fenders? And would it be heresy to restore that bike and put some swept back bars on it? Really--I'm never in the drops...is anyone really?
#14
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This has been a lot of food for thought--thanks to all for sharing your insights. I'll agree with some that say give-or-take an inch can be mitigated with success, but I absolutely see the other side as well. Especially as I'm in my 50's, being comfortable for long days in the saddle should lead the way whenever possible, and yes with as wide a tire as possible.This Raleigh (and by this I mean the International I mentioned earlier--a '75 being offered by another BF member...I've decided against the Competition) is nearly complete (minus wheel set and saddle/seat post) and is Campy period correct. She'd be used for Eroica events and other vintage rides no longer than 130 miles, and I'd use the All-City Space Horse for longer brevets until I can afford to join the Cult of Rivendell and spec out my dream machine.
I wonder what max tire size the International could handle, ideally with fenders? And would it be heresy to restore that bike and put some swept back bars on it? Really--I'm never in the drops...is anyone really?
I wonder what max tire size the International could handle, ideally with fenders? And would it be heresy to restore that bike and put some swept back bars on it? Really--I'm never in the drops...is anyone really?
Raleigh professional with 650b and tektro 559s
#15
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Depends on the age of the international but I've managed 35s and fenders on a 73 competition and supercourse. I find most Raleighs designed around 27" wheels will do the same. Those designed around 700c get a 650b treatment from me. As to swept back bars, I'm all in!
Raleigh professional with 650b and tektro 559s
Raleigh professional with 650b and tektro 559s
#16
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My International is from 1975 and has 32mm tires with fenders. It easily accommodates these wheels and I’m tempted to attempt 35mm tires but that will be a close fit. In June I completed a single day 160 mile ride from Minneapolis MN to Duluth MN on this bike with a recovery day the next day. I rode 160 miles home on the third day and I couldn’t have been happier with how the bike rode. I’ll say say this though, I think I picked the easiest 160 miles in the United States. No hills larger than a bridge abutment or I may have preferred different gearing. If long distance is the goal, I think you’ll like the International.
Last edited by Pcampeau; 08-07-23 at 05:23 PM.
#17
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#18
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My International is from 1975 and has 32mm tires with fenders. It easily accommodates these wheels and I’m tempted to attempt 35mm tires but that will be a close fit. In June I completed a single day 160 mile ride from Minneapolis MN to Duluth MN on this bike with a recovery day the next day. I rode 160 miles home on the third day and I couldn’t have been happier with how the bike rode. I’ll say say this though, I think I picked the easiest 160 miles in the United States. No hills larger than a bridge abutment or I may have preferred different gearing. If long distance is the goal, I think you’ll like the International.
#19
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I currently have a TA triple with 48T, 38T, 28T chainrings that I haven’t gotten around to using yet. I’ve also got a 6 speed Suntour Perfect freewheel with a 32T large cog I’m looking to place on one of my bikes. This stuff isn’t necessary where I live in Minnesota but I’ll be building a bike for travel and the International is good candidate. Yes, I think you’ll benefit from a triple.