Headset Mounted Cable Hanger
#26
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I found a 22.2mm aluminum one on ebay, it's great in a situation where you can't put one in the headset stack...
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#28
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I've had this question too. There really isn't a lot out there for traditional headset mounting on a 1" steer tube. Many vintage bikes have only enough room on the steer tube and headset stack to allow for a thin steel vintage type cable hanger. This limits you to:
- Vintage MAFAC. They work fine, but do flex a bit. There are two models, as verktyg mentioned, but even the fancier one flexes, albeit less. Looks elegant.
- Dia Compe / Weinmann: IMO these are probably the best of the vintage type. Not exactly elegant appearance, but they are stiffer than MAFAC and the QR can be handy. I find that the built in QR of may TRP RRL levers isn't quite enough when running GP4000 28c tires on A23 rims.
- generic knock offs of the above. Rivendell sells a generic aluminum one that might be a bit stiffer than vintage, if you have a couple extra mm.
- A stem with a cable stop. This was once very common. Not great if you fiddle with your position a lot, but for those that tend to leave stem height alone, it's an elegant way to go. People used to drill holes in aluminum quill stems. I think I'd go cro-mo with this method, because I can't help myself when I see a gravel road when I'm on my touring bike.
For a more modern bike or if you have just a tiny bit more steer tube and headset stack to work with, that Fairweather/Nitto hanger looks great to me. Very cool design. FWIW I've ordered stuff directly from Fairweather, and it has been no problem. I've eyeballed those stops before, and thought about putting the 1 1/8" version on my Mercian, along with a matching nickel finished Nitto stem. It'd be a nice way to get a more retro look. Never did it though, since my current setup is fine.
There are of course many modern aluminum stops if you've got 1 1/8" threadless set up, and they work well. The extra stiffness gives more of a precise feel to the brakes.
- Vintage MAFAC. They work fine, but do flex a bit. There are two models, as verktyg mentioned, but even the fancier one flexes, albeit less. Looks elegant.
- Dia Compe / Weinmann: IMO these are probably the best of the vintage type. Not exactly elegant appearance, but they are stiffer than MAFAC and the QR can be handy. I find that the built in QR of may TRP RRL levers isn't quite enough when running GP4000 28c tires on A23 rims.
- generic knock offs of the above. Rivendell sells a generic aluminum one that might be a bit stiffer than vintage, if you have a couple extra mm.
- A stem with a cable stop. This was once very common. Not great if you fiddle with your position a lot, but for those that tend to leave stem height alone, it's an elegant way to go. People used to drill holes in aluminum quill stems. I think I'd go cro-mo with this method, because I can't help myself when I see a gravel road when I'm on my touring bike.
For a more modern bike or if you have just a tiny bit more steer tube and headset stack to work with, that Fairweather/Nitto hanger looks great to me. Very cool design. FWIW I've ordered stuff directly from Fairweather, and it has been no problem. I've eyeballed those stops before, and thought about putting the 1 1/8" version on my Mercian, along with a matching nickel finished Nitto stem. It'd be a nice way to get a more retro look. Never did it though, since my current setup is fine.
There are of course many modern aluminum stops if you've got 1 1/8" threadless set up, and they work well. The extra stiffness gives more of a precise feel to the brakes.
#29
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Suntour
I'm also using the Suntour - black that came stock on the bike.
I finally found a set of Odyssey Straddle Rods in the longer size that I'm going to replace the cable with. I still don't know why...I guess I always thought they were "Cool"!
Sorry for the blurry pic - phone's camera isn't that great.
I finally found a set of Odyssey Straddle Rods in the longer size that I'm going to replace the cable with. I still don't know why...I guess I always thought they were "Cool"!
Sorry for the blurry pic - phone's camera isn't that great.
#30
Senior Member
Got this one from Velo-Orange some time ago, I added a threaded insert for the adjustment screw.
It's stout but needs about 6mm of steerer tube.
It's stout but needs about 6mm of steerer tube.
#31
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I'm also using the Suntour - black that came stock on the bike.
I finally found a set of Odyssey Straddle Rods in the longer size that I'm going to replace the cable with. I still don't know why...I guess I always thought they were "Cool"!
Sorry for the blurry pic - phone's camera isn't that great.
I finally found a set of Odyssey Straddle Rods in the longer size that I'm going to replace the cable with. I still don't know why...I guess I always thought they were "Cool"!
Sorry for the blurry pic - phone's camera isn't that great.
The one I have doesn't clamp on to the stem very well- or at least tightly enough that I'd feel comfortable with it.
SunTour Head Binder by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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#32
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How does that mount on there?
The one I have doesn't clamp on to the stem very well- or at least tightly enough that I'd feel comfortable with it.
SunTour Head Binder by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
The one I have doesn't clamp on to the stem very well- or at least tightly enough that I'd feel comfortable with it.
SunTour Head Binder by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
#33
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Thanks!
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#34
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The the lock ring nut pictured above doesn't fit inside the collar- and it can't pinch down on the nut underneath it- unless there's something else that goes inside the collar... right?
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#35
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I think I must be missing something- theres the ferrule, the collar, and the lock ring nut thing... is there anything else?
The the lock ring nut pictured above doesn't fit inside the collar- and it can't pinch down on the nut underneath it- unless there's something else that goes inside the collar... right?
The the lock ring nut pictured above doesn't fit inside the collar- and it can't pinch down on the nut underneath it- unless there's something else that goes inside the collar... right?
#36
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There is a thin nut that seems made specifically for that hanger. Look at the underside of the hanger - there is probably an angled indentation designed to accept the nut. It has to be lined-up right to fit over it. You might have an incorrect nut. The setup should be: headset race is installed, portion of steerer tube protruding. Maybe you'll need a spacer on top of it, maybe not. Thin Lock-nut goes on top of that. Adjust headset with nut "angles" set to accept hanger to sit straight. Still steerer tube protruding just enough to accept hanger. Shove on hanger. Put ferrule in hanger. Tighten pinch bolt. I guess you could let the hanger be installed sitting on top of an incorrectly sized nut, but the recessed nut, I think helps keep the collar from rotating.
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#37
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I think I have an incorrect nut.
SunTour Head Binder by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
SunTour Head Binder by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
SunTour Head Binder by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
SunTour Head Binder by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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#38
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It's hard to describe, but see how the roughly "triangular" bit with the slot and ferrule-hole steps down to the "circular" section with the hole to fit over the steerer-tube? The circular section fits over the nut. I just took another look at mine and it is set with one of the nut's flats against the "triangular" section. I might have been over-stating the shape of the hanger's underside - it's been a while since I scrutinized it.
#39
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@Bianchi84
Thank you VERY much for going through the effort to take pix for me!
That was really cool of you!
I really appreciate it!
So as you tighten the pinch bolt- it squeezes on the two flats of the headset nut!
Thank you!
Thank you VERY much for going through the effort to take pix for me!
That was really cool of you!
I really appreciate it!
So as you tighten the pinch bolt- it squeezes on the two flats of the headset nut!
Thank you!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#40
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@Bianchi84
Thank you VERY much for going through the effort to take pix for me!
That was really cool of you!
I really appreciate it!
So as you tighten the pinch bolt- it squeezes on the two flats of the headset nut!
Thank you!
Thank you VERY much for going through the effort to take pix for me!
That was really cool of you!
I really appreciate it!
So as you tighten the pinch bolt- it squeezes on the two flats of the headset nut!
Thank you!
#41
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Destroyer of myths, teller of truths, breaker of hearts...
Over the past few years I've seen a number of C&V aficionados especially in the CR group who are overly enthralled with the old cast aluminum CLB cable hangers, particularly the ones with the castellated teeth to fit Stronglight P3 and V4 headsets.
Personal experience BITD: I tried several of these CLB hangers on my first off road bike with MAFAC cantilever brakes. Both broke before I could try them out for real. I also had several break on customer's bikes.
They were poorly designed (wimpy) and the cast aluminum was too weak!
213, 213M, 213ER, 214
The cheapest MAFAC brakes used these stamped hangers. They flex.
The better ones had these stamped hangers, thicker with reinforcing curves in thge front . The flexed a lot less and came in plated steel and stainless steel versions.
Both Weinmann and Dia-Comp provided these stamped steel hangers with reinforcements to add rigidity. They also had versions with QRs.
verktyg
Over the past few years I've seen a number of C&V aficionados especially in the CR group who are overly enthralled with the old cast aluminum CLB cable hangers, particularly the ones with the castellated teeth to fit Stronglight P3 and V4 headsets.
Personal experience BITD: I tried several of these CLB hangers on my first off road bike with MAFAC cantilever brakes. Both broke before I could try them out for real. I also had several break on customer's bikes.
They were poorly designed (wimpy) and the cast aluminum was too weak!
213, 213M, 213ER, 214
The cheapest MAFAC brakes used these stamped hangers. They flex.
The better ones had these stamped hangers, thicker with reinforcing curves in thge front . The flexed a lot less and came in plated steel and stainless steel versions.
Both Weinmann and Dia-Comp provided these stamped steel hangers with reinforcements to add rigidity. They also had versions with QRs.
verktyg
I'll dig around and see if I can find one of those steel versions.
I'd like to get the front brake cable loop under the handlebar, but not at the risk of something breaking.
#42
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Likes For The Golden Boy:
#44
Senior Member
Picking mine up tomorrow!
In other news, CLB “toothed” hanger is not a match for the Trek microadjusts. Different project.
In other news, CLB “toothed” hanger is not a match for the Trek microadjusts. Different project.
#45
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#46
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,Campagnolo made one during the off-road years. Fit over the headset nut and clamped in place, similar to many shown here.
#48
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@verktyg If you look on the bottom side of that Ritchey hanger it should be stamped Dia Compe. I have one that came on my early 90s MB-2.
I'm building an 80s mtb with a Specialized slingshot stem with a built in hanger. The hanger is on a rod that can be rotated and then set in place with a set screw once adjusted to the desired angle. Way over-engineered but cool. I'll take pics later.
I'm building an 80s mtb with a Specialized slingshot stem with a built in hanger. The hanger is on a rod that can be rotated and then set in place with a set screw once adjusted to the desired angle. Way over-engineered but cool. I'll take pics later.
#49
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#50
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Ritchey Front Cable Hanger
@verktyg If you look on the bottom side of that Ritchey hanger it should be stamped Dia Compe. I have one that came on my early 90s MB-2.
The levers and cantis are DiaCompe on this rough stuff trekking bike with upright bars.
Touring frame that I built at the same time with MAFAC cantis.
There is zero flex in these hangers (well maybe a small amount).
verktyg
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