130->135mm rear, 853 how practical
05-22-18, 08:58 AM
#1
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130->135mm rear, 853 how practical
All,
Considering taking an 853 frame that has 130mm rear spacing and moving it out 5mm. I've done this before, but just wanted to check: any gotcha's awaiting.
I use Sheldon's 2x4 method of spreading the dropouts, then check that the dropouts are centered and parallel, then check the derailleur hanger being in proper alignment.
Wouldn't do it in an Al frame, can't do it in a CF frame, but an 853 (Peloton) frame should be fine, correct?
Thanks
Considering taking an 853 frame that has 130mm rear spacing and moving it out 5mm. I've done this before, but just wanted to check: any gotcha's awaiting.
I use Sheldon's 2x4 method of spreading the dropouts, then check that the dropouts are centered and parallel, then check the derailleur hanger being in proper alignment.
Wouldn't do it in an Al frame, can't do it in a CF frame, but an 853 (Peloton) frame should be fine, correct?
Thanks
05-22-18, 09:05 AM
#2
Banned
853 is a pretty lightweight steel tubeset, Right?
you're only talking about forcing the frame
less than 3mm further apart per side
when you put a 135 axle wheel in ... it should not be that hard to do..
you're only talking about forcing the frame
less than 3mm further apart per side
when you put a 135 axle wheel in ... it should not be that hard to do..
05-22-18, 10:57 AM
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What are the goals?
As I understand it, 130 is still the Road standard.
Cross may be mixed 130/135
MTB (old) is 135.
You're probably fine could setting the frame, but I'd personally choose to build wheels to my frame size.
As I understand it, 130 is still the Road standard.
Cross may be mixed 130/135
MTB (old) is 135.
You're probably fine could setting the frame, but I'd personally choose to build wheels to my frame size.
05-22-18, 02:45 PM
#4
Really Old Senior Member
Once you get into the 5mm "spreadage", I seriously would consider get the drops aligned to be parallel. (I see you said you'd do that, so this is more of a "notice to others")
I've ran into "eating cones syndrome" when spreading out to 6mm without aligning.
Tightening the wheel, would bend the axle enough so they wouldn't wear evenly, although they would "spin" fine. Put on a 200+ lb. rider and conditions are different.
A thinner dropout might bend & conform to a better "perpendicularly", but simply having them be parallel from step one is much more desirable.
I've ran into "eating cones syndrome" when spreading out to 6mm without aligning.
Tightening the wheel, would bend the axle enough so they wouldn't wear evenly, although they would "spin" fine. Put on a 200+ lb. rider and conditions are different.
A thinner dropout might bend & conform to a better "perpendicularly", but simply having them be parallel from step one is much more desirable.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 05-22-18 at 03:00 PM.
05-22-18, 03:49 PM
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All,
Considering taking an 853 frame that has 130mm rear spacing and moving it out 5mm. I've done this before, but just wanted to check: any gotcha's awaiting.
I use Sheldon's 2x4 method of spreading the dropouts, then check that the dropouts are centered and parallel, then check the derailleur hanger being in proper alignment.
Wouldn't do it in an Al frame, can't do it in a CF frame, but an 853 (Peloton) frame should be fine, correct?
Thanks
Considering taking an 853 frame that has 130mm rear spacing and moving it out 5mm. I've done this before, but just wanted to check: any gotcha's awaiting.
I use Sheldon's 2x4 method of spreading the dropouts, then check that the dropouts are centered and parallel, then check the derailleur hanger being in proper alignment.
Wouldn't do it in an Al frame, can't do it in a CF frame, but an 853 (Peloton) frame should be fine, correct?
Thanks
If you decide to do this, I'd recommend trying to focus the bend in the middle of the chainstays where the wall thickness is a bit greater, and it won't have been further hardened by welding or brazing.
05-22-18, 07:29 PM
#6
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Ok, I'm an idiot, but I learned something.
1) I'm an idiot: I realized that the frame I'm interested in has 130mm spacing. I was thinking that I needed to spread this to 135mm spacing to be standard for 9-10-11 speed groupsets. As pointed out, I don't.
2) I learned something. Ghrumpy pointed out that 853 is a high-strength heat-treated steel that likely has a high yield modulus and would take some effort to bend (and some care to bend without mishap). This was good to learn.
Thanks, all.
1) I'm an idiot: I realized that the frame I'm interested in has 130mm spacing. I was thinking that I needed to spread this to 135mm spacing to be standard for 9-10-11 speed groupsets. As pointed out, I don't.
2) I learned something. Ghrumpy pointed out that 853 is a high-strength heat-treated steel that likely has a high yield modulus and would take some effort to bend (and some care to bend without mishap). This was good to learn.
Thanks, all.
