PLEASE Talk me out of replacing my Toughroad!
#1
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Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
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PLEASE Talk me out of replacing my Toughroad!
Or help me get rid of it. Your call. This is sort of a continuation from my other post but here we go.
I've been riding my Toughroad for the past 3 years with different setups - 700c/29er, 650b/27.5. There's quite a few things I like but some that I don't:
Like: Long-ish wheelbase for bombing down descents, tire clearance, tall-ish stack, low standover for it's size (L).
Dislike: Lackluster pedaling efficiency (more on that later), Toe-overlap despite long top-tube due to 42mm rake.
Honestly the pedaling efficiency part is the only thing having me consider replacing this bike outright. I wanted this to be my fat tire road bike, but compared to bikes that I have ridden that feel stiffer when pedaling, it feels like a lot of my power gets wasted and leads to fatigue on longer rides. This is independent of what tires I ran btw.
So I was considering maybe I'm just not as strong as I thought, or the bike just isn't stiff enough where I need it to be. If I want a bike that I can run on the road with still wide tires, I need a bike that's stiff enough so that I can reduce how much power I waste.
So option A: find a new bike (or frameset) that is more stiff and has better pedaling efficiency. If I pick this option this is what I'd want:
- Long front end, short(er) rear end: I'd say 430-440mm for chainstays and 1050+mm for the wheelbase.
- Tall stack height: My Toughroad has a 605mm stack and I'm running a 17 degree rise 90mm stem. If I could have a taller stack so I didn't have to use a higher rise stem that would be nice.
- 650b compatibility: I use 650b x 48 Gravelking Slicks on the road and love them. They measure wide on my rims so it'd need to clear a 2.1. Don't want to run a 700c but if the option arises and I *maybe* do a gravel race then being able to fit a 700x45 with ample clearance would be good.
- Frameset OR GRX 2x10 build: If a GRX 2x10 option is available I'll just sell my Toughroad. Otherwise a frameset would be good so I can just transfer my components to the new frame and retire the Toughroad frame (or sell it).
- Budget: Full bike - <$2000, Frameset <$1000. A budget bike could also work and just strip the parts off.
So that's option A. Option B would be pretty straightforward: Just get good...
Any feedback/suggestions/etc. are greatly appreciated.
I've been riding my Toughroad for the past 3 years with different setups - 700c/29er, 650b/27.5. There's quite a few things I like but some that I don't:
Like: Long-ish wheelbase for bombing down descents, tire clearance, tall-ish stack, low standover for it's size (L).
Dislike: Lackluster pedaling efficiency (more on that later), Toe-overlap despite long top-tube due to 42mm rake.
Honestly the pedaling efficiency part is the only thing having me consider replacing this bike outright. I wanted this to be my fat tire road bike, but compared to bikes that I have ridden that feel stiffer when pedaling, it feels like a lot of my power gets wasted and leads to fatigue on longer rides. This is independent of what tires I ran btw.
So I was considering maybe I'm just not as strong as I thought, or the bike just isn't stiff enough where I need it to be. If I want a bike that I can run on the road with still wide tires, I need a bike that's stiff enough so that I can reduce how much power I waste.
So option A: find a new bike (or frameset) that is more stiff and has better pedaling efficiency. If I pick this option this is what I'd want:
- Long front end, short(er) rear end: I'd say 430-440mm for chainstays and 1050+mm for the wheelbase.
- Tall stack height: My Toughroad has a 605mm stack and I'm running a 17 degree rise 90mm stem. If I could have a taller stack so I didn't have to use a higher rise stem that would be nice.
- 650b compatibility: I use 650b x 48 Gravelking Slicks on the road and love them. They measure wide on my rims so it'd need to clear a 2.1. Don't want to run a 700c but if the option arises and I *maybe* do a gravel race then being able to fit a 700x45 with ample clearance would be good.
- Frameset OR GRX 2x10 build: If a GRX 2x10 option is available I'll just sell my Toughroad. Otherwise a frameset would be good so I can just transfer my components to the new frame and retire the Toughroad frame (or sell it).
- Budget: Full bike - <$2000, Frameset <$1000. A budget bike could also work and just strip the parts off.
So that's option A. Option B would be pretty straightforward: Just get good...
Any feedback/suggestions/etc. are greatly appreciated.
#2
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Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.
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As far as getting a new bike/Option A, getting what you want is going to be tough on that budget unless you step back from a carbon frame, but carbon is the ideal material for tuning stiffness and compliance in the right places. If you up your budget a bit the Giant revolt in Carbon may fit for you. The Open is ideal, but way more expensive. A good gravel bike maintains a great balance of stiffness for efficiency and vertical compliance for ride quality on rougher surfaces. A used Salsa Warbird may be another choice if you can find one available in the correct size but I believe the longer chain stays may be longer than you are looking for.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#3
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Being able to swap over your components would be my first option. (Pricing). [Frame/set with same axles. bb. etc.].
Some of that power could possibly be getting transferred out back due to that long 450mm chainstay!
I think its going to be tricky finding a [27.5] frame/bike with that kind of ride feel/performance with such a frame stack for a similar reach.
(I'm looking at 380-395mm reach, here).
How averse would you be to a riser flared dropbar to get that front end up? Say, 30mm rise or more?
Think you would notice quite a difference going to a carbon frame, even with a 435mm chainstay. Ideally I'd want 430mm or under though.
Carbonda CFR696 carbon frameset takes a 27.5x2.1. 435mm chainstay.
56 is 385/590. With a standard angled stem and a 30mm riser bar you'd be at 620mm stack, plus stem spacers.
610mm ftc on that size.
Huge thread on the 696 at RidingGravel forum.
If you want to go wild at the front end, splurge the remaining of that grand on a carbon Veno Borderless dropbar.
https://www.cyclowired.jp/lifenews/node/163925
Some of that power could possibly be getting transferred out back due to that long 450mm chainstay!
I think its going to be tricky finding a [27.5] frame/bike with that kind of ride feel/performance with such a frame stack for a similar reach.
(I'm looking at 380-395mm reach, here).
How averse would you be to a riser flared dropbar to get that front end up? Say, 30mm rise or more?
Think you would notice quite a difference going to a carbon frame, even with a 435mm chainstay. Ideally I'd want 430mm or under though.
Carbonda CFR696 carbon frameset takes a 27.5x2.1. 435mm chainstay.
56 is 385/590. With a standard angled stem and a 30mm riser bar you'd be at 620mm stack, plus stem spacers.
610mm ftc on that size.
Huge thread on the 696 at RidingGravel forum.
If you want to go wild at the front end, splurge the remaining of that grand on a carbon Veno Borderless dropbar.
https://www.cyclowired.jp/lifenews/node/163925
Last edited by tangerineowl; 06-10-21 at 03:53 AM. Reason: txt
#4
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I’m actually very close to just Re-buying a Revolt 2 since it fit 650b Gravelking SKs last time I had it. I could size up to the XL since it has pretty low stand over.
Another bike I’m considering is the RLT 9 if I can find the 59 2x10 GRX build. Rocky Mountain Solo 30 as well. I think that’s 1x11 but I have an 11 speed 11-42 that I could use on my 650b wheels.
Also - Sonder Camino frameset could also work
Another bike I’m considering is the RLT 9 if I can find the 59 2x10 GRX build. Rocky Mountain Solo 30 as well. I think that’s 1x11 but I have an 11 speed 11-42 that I could use on my 650b wheels.
Also - Sonder Camino frameset could also work
Last edited by DarKris; 06-10-21 at 08:05 AM.
#5
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Okay well lucky for me I have a LBS that had both the base aluminum Revolt and carbon revolt in XL and after trying them both side by side - I have to get a carbon bike.
The responsiveness between the two bikes was night and day in my opinion and I don’t think I want to waste money on another bike just to sell it off because it wasn’t really what I wanted. And at $2100 for GRX I might pull the trigger….
The responsiveness between the two bikes was night and day in my opinion and I don’t think I want to waste money on another bike just to sell it off because it wasn’t really what I wanted. And at $2100 for GRX I might pull the trigger….