Chainring $40 vs $125
#26
Senior Member
Funny I just happened across your post and just purchased a Dura Ace chainring today. My current French 47t was never great as it wasn't as round as I would like. I have put many thousands of miles on it that way of course and all the cheap chainrings will have that wonderful tightening of the chain in some spots, but I have been researching and believe a Dura Ace is the answer. Other options are better CNC rings, but I am sticking with Dura Ace as I think it will be very good. I should have it on in a couple of weeks as it is coming from a long way. I can update my post when I take if for a ride and see if it is a big improvement. My bicycle is of higher end in general with all Campy and such, but when it comes to a chainring on a fixed, that is a very important component. No tensioner of any kind, just a cog, ring and chain working together. Personally I think higher quality is worth it. Last longer and more pleasurable.
So yes it was worth the money for me.
#27
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The thread had resolved itself by the time I got to it, but one thing to note for future reference: if you run a 1/8" chain with your 3/32" freewheel, you are perfectly free to use either 3/32" or 1/8" chainrings.
#28
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In this particular case, the OP can ONLY use a 3/32" chain, so a 1/8" chainring is NOT an option. That is why the OP was looking specifically at 3/32" chainrings.
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#29
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Please see this earlier thread by the OP, posts #8 and #10 >>> https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespe...gle-speed.html
In this particular case, the OP can ONLY use a 3/32" chain, so a 1/8" chainring is NOT an option. That is why the OP was looking specifically at 3/32" chainrings.
In this particular case, the OP can ONLY use a 3/32" chain, so a 1/8" chainring is NOT an option. That is why the OP was looking specifically at 3/32" chainrings.
#31
Senior Member
To the OP, I have been wondering the same thing for a good while now. I have Two Wabi's, a Special and a Classic. My fear on buying a better chainring is, well, what if the crank itself is not symmetrical? I could spend $1,000 dollars on the perfectly round, beautiful chainring made by Santa's Elves and I'll still have tight spots on the chain.
I've decided to stick with my current crank and chainring but I did get a new sprocket. Make a difference? Not that I can tell, but it does "look" cool. When this drivetrain wears out, then I'll upgrade the crank, chainring and sprocket. Looking at Sugino and White Industries. Yeah, I converted my every day bike to freewheel.
My Classic is still set up with a fixed gear but I don't ride it much after my bad accident last year.
I've decided to stick with my current crank and chainring but I did get a new sprocket. Make a difference? Not that I can tell, but it does "look" cool. When this drivetrain wears out, then I'll upgrade the crank, chainring and sprocket. Looking at Sugino and White Industries. Yeah, I converted my every day bike to freewheel.
My Classic is still set up with a fixed gear but I don't ride it much after my bad accident last year.
#32
Senior Member
Please see this earlier thread by the OP, posts #8 and #10 >>> https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespe...gle-speed.html
In this particular case, the OP can ONLY use a 3/32" chain, so a 1/8" chainring is NOT an option. That is why the OP was looking specifically at 3/32" chainrings.
In this particular case, the OP can ONLY use a 3/32" chain, so a 1/8" chainring is NOT an option. That is why the OP was looking specifically at 3/32" chainrings.
that said, y’all crazy with $200 chainrings. I mean, your bottom bracket needs to be perfect and your cranks need to be perfect, and some other stuff probably needs to be perfect. Unless you’re riding in the race of your life, I’m not seeing the upside. But I get it. Some people buy $500 jeans instead of $150 jeans because they have the money and that’s how they want to spend it. For those of us happy with $150 (or much less) jeans, we’ll never know the value of the $350 margin. Just like me, who is happy with the all-city chain ring that has logged 1000s of miles in rain, snow, and mud - I will never know how a $200 chainring will improve on that.
#33
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The 16T freewheels from white industries do not have enough room below the teeth to allow a 1/8” chain to fully engage the teeth which will result in premature wear.
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#34
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This may be the right spot:
My Capo has a "crunchy" sound when riding, and this has been a bear to try and find. Totally driveline, coasts and backpedals quietly (single speed White Ind freewheel) pedals quiet if you keep the power low.
I have changed the crank, the ring (many times), the chain twice, the pedals, the BB, still crunchy. My Wabi is quiet as a cat, never a driveline noise so I have been taking the chainrings that I suspected from the Capo and moved them to the Wabi where they run very quietly.
I ride the crap out of the Capo, always 35 miles plus every ride so nothing is breaking fast enough to matter. I was running a Zonkie chain and thought it must be the chain so I put on a KMC S1 a week ago and it did change, it got worse.
All the gear is 1/8", the KMC S1 chain is a "wide". Maybe it is noise being referred from an issue with the White 18T freewheel so I'll change that today but I'm starting to think something is out of line. Always running a slack chain too.
Any bright ideas very welcome!
My Capo has a "crunchy" sound when riding, and this has been a bear to try and find. Totally driveline, coasts and backpedals quietly (single speed White Ind freewheel) pedals quiet if you keep the power low.
I have changed the crank, the ring (many times), the chain twice, the pedals, the BB, still crunchy. My Wabi is quiet as a cat, never a driveline noise so I have been taking the chainrings that I suspected from the Capo and moved them to the Wabi where they run very quietly.
I ride the crap out of the Capo, always 35 miles plus every ride so nothing is breaking fast enough to matter. I was running a Zonkie chain and thought it must be the chain so I put on a KMC S1 a week ago and it did change, it got worse.
All the gear is 1/8", the KMC S1 chain is a "wide". Maybe it is noise being referred from an issue with the White 18T freewheel so I'll change that today but I'm starting to think something is out of line. Always running a slack chain too.
Any bright ideas very welcome!
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#35
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This may be the right spot:
My Capo has a "crunchy" sound when riding, and this has been a bear to try and find. Totally driveline, coasts and backpedals quietly (single speed White Ind freewheel) pedals quiet if you keep the power low.
I have changed the crank, the ring (many times), the chain twice, the pedals, the BB, still crunchy. My Wabi is quiet as a cat, never a driveline noise so I have been taking the chainrings that I suspected from the Capo and moved them to the Wabi where they run very quietly.
I ride the crap out of the Capo, always 35 miles plus every ride so nothing is breaking fast enough to matter. I was running a Zonkie chain and thought it must be the chain so I put on a KMC S1 a week ago and it did change, it got worse.
All the gear is 1/8", the KMC S1 chain is a "wide". Maybe it is noise being referred from an issue with the White 18T freewheel so I'll change that today but I'm starting to think something is out of line. Always running a slack chain too.
Any bright ideas very welcome!
My Capo has a "crunchy" sound when riding, and this has been a bear to try and find. Totally driveline, coasts and backpedals quietly (single speed White Ind freewheel) pedals quiet if you keep the power low.
I have changed the crank, the ring (many times), the chain twice, the pedals, the BB, still crunchy. My Wabi is quiet as a cat, never a driveline noise so I have been taking the chainrings that I suspected from the Capo and moved them to the Wabi where they run very quietly.
I ride the crap out of the Capo, always 35 miles plus every ride so nothing is breaking fast enough to matter. I was running a Zonkie chain and thought it must be the chain so I put on a KMC S1 a week ago and it did change, it got worse.
All the gear is 1/8", the KMC S1 chain is a "wide". Maybe it is noise being referred from an issue with the White 18T freewheel so I'll change that today but I'm starting to think something is out of line. Always running a slack chain too.
Any bright ideas very welcome!
#36
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My noise problem with the Capo is solved, in a round about way but solved. I have had a Vintage Stonglight crank coming for a few weeks and it arrived today so I figured I'd mount it up and see if that changed anything, it did.
The Stronglight came with it's own BB,107 mm, I was running a 118mm in there, I needed that size for the non drive side pedal arm to clear the frame using my Vintage Edco Swiss track crank so I must have been pushing my drive side out a bit too far and getting the noise from the misalignment, it's hard to see, easy to hear it appears.
So now I'm nice and quiet again but with a new wrinkle (does this BS ever end?) I have a nice collection of 144 BCD rings but the Stronglight is 130 BCD so I'm about to purchase a few
it seems.
They seem easy to get but I do want some nice rings, if anyone has any for sale speak up. Looking for 46T, 48T and 50T
I am attached to this crank and I don't want to let it go just yet, self extracting bolt system, nice finish, very light.
,
The Stronglight came with it's own BB,107 mm, I was running a 118mm in there, I needed that size for the non drive side pedal arm to clear the frame using my Vintage Edco Swiss track crank so I must have been pushing my drive side out a bit too far and getting the noise from the misalignment, it's hard to see, easy to hear it appears.
So now I'm nice and quiet again but with a new wrinkle (does this BS ever end?) I have a nice collection of 144 BCD rings but the Stronglight is 130 BCD so I'm about to purchase a few
it seems.
They seem easy to get but I do want some nice rings, if anyone has any for sale speak up. Looking for 46T, 48T and 50T
I am attached to this crank and I don't want to let it go just yet, self extracting bolt system, nice finish, very light.
,
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#38
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I still like that crank though...
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#39
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I just ordered a Blackspire chainring directly from Black Spire Designs LTD. in Canada (blackspire.com). It's a 144bcd 43T 1/8" track chainring, and it cost $70.40 CAD, which is about $57.00 USD. It's going on my Wraith which currently has a 44T Sugino ZEN black chainring that is unavailable in 43T. Not that I would have bought the ZEN even if it were available in that size, since it would have cost $260 ! The 44T ZEN will not go to waste, but instead will replace a 46T ZEN on my 2006 Bianchi Pista Concept. So what about the 46T ZEN, will it go to waste ? Nope, it will replace a 46T Andel chainring on my Dolan Pre Cursa. As I rapidly approach my 75th birthday, I'm faced with the harsh reality that I cannot turn as high gearing as before.