Philasteve

Bought a new Andel Track Crankset a long while ago with a Shimano BB, just installed it. Basically I can pick between a gap on either side, should I even try to remedy it or just leave it?


Noticed the old Andel RSC'1 are a lot more narrow than the newer Andel's.

TejanoTrackie 

The Andel RSC1 cranks require a 103mm JIS BB, whereas the Andel Standard cranks require a 110mm JIS BB.

I don't understand that photo, because the NDS cup should be fully threaded with no flange, so that it can be adjusted.

Broctoon

What TT said. Usually the drive side cup bottoms out on a flange against the BB shell, and then the non-drive side stops anywhere from just proud of the shell’s edge to flush with it, but there should be nothing on the outside to stop it.

Rolla

Dunno ... that looks like a UN55, which has a flange on both sides. Wouldn't be my choice, but you could probably put a spacer in there to close the gap.

Broctoon

Hey, you’re right. I’ve even used the UN-55, but forgot that’s how it looks. Maybe I was thinking of UN-26, which is very similar but with a plastic ND side cup. I’m sure it has no flange.

OP, I think it shouldn’t be a problem, assuming the inner surface is pressing against the cartridge body. Not sure why they put that flange on the ND side. There must be a reason, but it might not be an important one in your application.

Philasteve

Not sure why they won't play nice together. Does anyone have a suggestion for a different BB? I'm about to just grab this and call it a day. https://www.retro-gression.com/colle...14086513262653

Rolla

I'm a fan of the Velo Orange bottom brackets -- the 110 is even in stock rn.

TejanoTrackie 

That's an excellent choice, very good quality at a very reasonable price. I was going to suggest the IRD QB-55 that is the same price but lighter weight, but unfortunately it is out of stock at RG.

The reason the Shimano BB-UN55 won't work with your frame, is that it expects the frame's BB shell to be exactly 68mm wide, and yours must be just a tiny bit less, resulting in the gap. It's really a very stupid design, and I think you are wise to get something else.

JohnDThompson 

There's no reason why the OP couldn't put a spacer under the flange. It's on the NDS, so the chainline isn't affected.

TejanoTrackie 

Yes, but if the spacer is too thick, then the NDS cup won't fit snug against the BB cartridge, which can lead to play and creaking. I still say it's a stupid design, and the OP is better off getting something else that isn't a hassle.

Philasteve

Thanks buddy, I appreciate the advice. I actually tried to get that IRD first but of course every size is in stock except for the one I need like you said lol. I did order the Tange, I'll take the loss on the Shimano that thing was like 18 bucks, I have no idea why I bought that over the newer Shimano UN300 in the first place.

IAmSam

This is a UN-55 in one of my bikes. Can you make out the spacer? It's there. When I first got this frame, I had the shell faced - damn thing came back 67mm wide. Like on the OP's bike the UN-55 I got for it would not snug-up all the way on the NDS. I decided to put a 1 mm spacer on the drive side. Works good for me. Hope whatever you choose to do on your bike works as well for you...

Rolla

That's how I envisioned a spacer working on the OP's bike, but as @TejanoTrackie said, doing that will affect chainline. Because your BB shell was shaved by a millimeter, the spacer had no net effect on yours, but that may not be the case with the OP's bike. Whether a millimeter of chainline makes any significant difference is a question of how straight it is to begin with.

Senrab62 

I agree with JohnDThompson on my RRB track bike, the BB was likely faced by previous owner. Used a spacer, and perfect fit. Easy peasy.

Philasteve

No more open gap, NDS cup was on there super tight when I pulled it from the box. Screwed it in and almost put my elbow through the wall trying to pull it off. Probably an easier way but oh well.