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Best way to pack a Miyata tourer?

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Old 03-25-21, 07:01 PM
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Fuji1986
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Best way to pack a Miyata tourer?

I've been thinking of moving on from my 1989 Miyata 618GT, which took me cross-country but complained all the way with a constant shimmy under a 40-lb load (front and rear panniers + handlebar bag). But recently I came across a thread somewhere about how the later Miyata touring bikes were "low trail" bikes. I got to thinking that maybe a different approach to packing could make a difference. I've always packed it mostly 80/20 or 70/30 rear/front, but don't "low trail" bikes do best with a front-biased load? (Or is that just for 650B?) Has anyone had success with, say, a large front platform bag and small rear panniers on their Miyata 1000/615/610? It would be easy to just toss my bike and get a more stout modern steel tourer, but let's hold on a moment . . .
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Old 03-25-21, 07:55 PM
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Try it, you mighta like it!

I still reckon though that newer touring bikes are just so much more stable etc loaded, that's my experience, BUT yes, proper weight distribution is really important, and a good sturdy front rack.
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Old 03-26-21, 12:21 AM
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My Velo-Orange Campeur is a fairly beefy modern touring bike, and it's not low trail. But even it handles better if I'm making sure to pack the dense heavy stuff in the front bags.

I've toured with a heavily rear-biased load on a flexy low-ish-trail bike before (1979 Fuji America), but this was mostly a matter of convenience with the rack setup. Handling was mostly alright in the saddle, but the steering oscillated any time I stood up. On a bike like that, I'd pack most - maybe even all - of the weight up front if it's convenient to do so.
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Old 03-26-21, 12:36 AM
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imi
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I toured for many years on a Miyata 100 (lower tier than 1000) with mainly rear load.
Eventually the rear end had become so out of shape that wheel alignment was impossible even after my LBS fantastic mechanic’s attempts to cold set the frame.

Is it true that the steel becomes progressively suppler with time under load? I have always believed so, but never researched it.
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Old 03-26-21, 03:10 PM
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Like others, I found the old Miyata a little too flexible in the rear triangle for my tastes. Was very comfortable and great for credit card or light touring. Didn't own a front rack so that would have helped but the fork was by no means beast-like and I'm sure it would have likely flexed as well.
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Old 03-28-21, 02:57 AM
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I have an 85 Miyata 1000 and find it tours just fine with rear panniers and a handlebar bag. 30 pounds on the rear and 8 pounds up front works fine. Never a shimmy unless riding no hands. I believe trail is 60mm.
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Old 03-28-21, 05:08 AM
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I guess the only thing that I can add is that even with newer bikes, load distribution both fore/aft as well as weight low or high males a real difference in how a bike handles and feels.

I've always noticed real differences, even with not huge changes of moving stiff around.
but rack placement, pannier placement, and bike setup details cam all have an effect also.

just try lots of logical, methodical changes and keep track of what you do.
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Old 03-28-21, 07:27 AM
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Experiment a bit with another balance loading things up. As an alternative you could also try another headset if you have the space for it. Needle bearing headsets like the classic Stronglight A9 have more resistance than ball-bearing headsets and dampen out shimmy.

I have had excellent results with the modern IRD Double RollerDrive headset that uses needle bearings. Rivendell sells a single needle bearing version with the Tange/IRD NeedL BlastR headset.

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Old 03-29-21, 08:48 AM
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I started touring on a Miyata Triplecross. I got the shimmy no matter how I loaded it. Too flexy, I suppose. I wish I still had it to commute on, but as it goes, I moved on. Absolutely no shimmy or shake on the LHT : ^ )
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Old 03-31-21, 09:39 PM
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I have toured with my Miyata1000 since the early 80's. They were the best "off the floor" touring bikes made at the time. Rides like buttah. But they could be a bit "noodly" under a full load. The key to a stable ride I have found, is 3 things. 1. Low center of gravity. That means all the heavy dense stuff goes at the bottom of the panniers and all the light fluffy stuff goes on top. 2. The weight of the panniers should be balanced. The right pannier should weigh roughly the same as the left pannier. 3. The weight of the panniers should be centered over the axles. Not in front of the axles, not behind the axles, right over the axles. As long as I do those 3 things I have no problems with a "noodly" bike. Just remember, low, balanced and over the axles. I still tour with an old miyata frame, but I've upgraded just about everything on it, especially the wheels. I ride on Mavic A719's which are a much beefier set of wheels. I think that helps stiffen the ride a lot. The Miyata's came with alloy rims, which were nice in their day, but I think added some flex to the ride.
Modern bikes are much stiffer that's true. I remember test riding a Trek 520 about 15 years ago. My first thought was, it felt like riding a wooden saw horse. I didn't like it. I do now own a Trek 520 and it is an awesome bike but I've never toured with it because I love my Miyata 1000 too much. I also own a Surly Cross Check. It sits next to my Trek in the garage when me and my Miyata go for a ride.
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