Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
Reload this Page >

convert retro bike to drop-bar gravel

Notices
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like : "Unbound Gravel". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

convert retro bike to drop-bar gravel

Old 08-25-20, 10:14 AM
  #1  
mack_turtle
n00b
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,397

Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey, Twin Six Standard Rando

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 273 Posts
convert retro bike to drop-bar gravel

I have an itch to scratch: successfully convert an old steel hybrid to a drop bar, singlespeed monstercross bike. I've seen it done with old hybrids and mountain bikes but I only ever see the bikes in isolation, not the rider who supposedly fits on them. it's hard enough to find good bikes on the market right now, but the real challenge to me seems to be finding something that can be made to fit me. most of these bikes have long top tubes, designed with flat bars in mind, so putting a drop bar on them would make the bike incredibly stretched out. I know what size ETT fits me on a drop bar bike, but I might be able to work it out with a shorter stem. how does one find a good candidate so that I don't have to use an irrationally tiny stem, or end up with a yardstick worth of seatpost exposed?
mack_turtle is offline  
Old 08-25-20, 04:02 PM
  #2  
mstateglfr 
Sunshine
 
mstateglfr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,538

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo

Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10902 Post(s)
Liked 7,393 Times in 4,148 Posts
I accept that things won't look traditional/ideal when a hybrid or mtb drop bar conversion takes place.
Its a bit uncommon to see a conversion thst looks like it was designed thst way. This is due to the bike's geometry and the rider's measurements.

More important than look is if the bike fits. My first gravel bike was an early 90s drop bar conversion. A Univega Via Activa 3x7 hyvrid was what I started with. Some friction suntour bar end shifters, flared drop bar, tektro brake levers, a new saddle, and some pedals got me going. New tires shortly after made it more fun.
The frame was way too small, but the contact points all matched my other drop bar bikes so it effectively fit fine and let me ride for hours on end.
This allowed me to figure out if I liked gravel riding and determine what I would want in a better build..


Info is limited when it comes to early 90s hybrids. the trek 7xx series, bianchi project series, univega, fuji, schwinn cris cross and cross cut, etc- i would suggest you look for these specifically as a starting point and then go from there for what is available.
The Schwinn Crisscross and Univega ViaActiva I've owned both fit like recreational drop bar bikes from the late 80s and early 90s. The early 90s Trek 750 had the same geometry as a drop bar Trek 520 touring bike.
Now may be a tough search due to the seemingly limited online inventory and the relatively high prices.
mstateglfr is offline  
Old 08-25-20, 04:11 PM
  #3  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,890

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 752 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 799 Times in 467 Posts
Originally Posted by mack_turtle
..how does one find a good candidate so that I don't have to use an irrationally tiny stem, or end up with a yardstick worth of seatpost exposed?
I've done a couple..one for my GF (Trek 750 to drop bar all-rounder..gravely-touring bike) and one for myself (Trek 970 to drop bar all-rounder..gravely-touring bike). Both have been on gravel roads and self-supported (front & rear pannier) tours. Both are very successful in terms of comfort and utility as well as down right fun to ride.

I don't think there's any substitute for doing your homework. Measure the reach-stack of bikes that fit you. Research the frame geometry of potential bikes..and target bikes that show potential for a good fit.

I ended up with Treks in both of the ones I've done..partly..largely due to the extensive vintage data Trek makes available on the web and Trek sold a lot of bikes..which means they exist on the used market in good quantity. The "ideal" bike for conversion is only theory if you can't actually find one in good condition and in your size.

There's a TON of info available here of BF on this topic if you look for it.
fishboat is offline  
Likes For fishboat:
Old 08-25-20, 04:18 PM
  #4  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,890

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 752 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 799 Times in 467 Posts
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
The early 90s Trek 750 had the same geometry as a drop bar Trek 520 touring bike.
The early 90's Trek 970 also has nearly identical geometry as the 520/750. I'd guess(?) the same would go for the Trek 950/990, though I haven't specifically looked into it.
fishboat is offline  
Old 08-25-20, 04:24 PM
  #5  
bOsscO
bOsscO
 
bOsscO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 748

Bikes: 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 293 Post(s)
Liked 353 Times in 211 Posts
There's a whole thread on this; https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
bOsscO is offline  
Old 08-25-20, 04:30 PM
  #6  
mstateglfr 
Sunshine
 
mstateglfr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,538

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo

Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10902 Post(s)
Liked 7,393 Times in 4,148 Posts
Originally Posted by fishboat
The early 90's Trek 970 also has nearly identical geometry as the 520/750. I'd guess(?) the same would go for the Trek 950/990, though I haven't specifically looked into it.
The 970 is a 26" mtb and had like 50mm of bb drop, right? I thought those had a more relaxed head tube angle too.
mstateglfr is offline  
Old 08-25-20, 07:43 PM
  #7  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,890

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 752 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 799 Times in 467 Posts
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
The 970 is a 26" mtb and had like 50mm of bb drop, right? I thought those had a more relaxed head tube angle too.
Yes , 26 inch, though I can't speak to the drop. The data below is from Trek's 1992 spec manual. The 1990-1994 Trek 970 had a shorter top tube (575mm) than from 1995 (590mm) and beyond. I think the lugged frames ended in 1993(4?) for the 750 and 970.

fishboat is offline  
Likes For fishboat:
Old 08-25-20, 09:00 PM
  #8  
mack_turtle
n00b
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,397

Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey, Twin Six Standard Rando

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 273 Posts
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
I accept that things won't look traditional/ideal when a hybrid or mtb drop bar conversion takes place.
Sorry if I was unclear about my concerns. I don't care what it looks like, I just want it to fit me. Because bikes from that era never had reach and stack published, I can't easily compare older bikes that way unless I can get my hands on the bike first.
Background: I've tried this with a 17" Bianchi Boardwalk and a 17" Scott Laredo. Both steel framed hybrids with rigid forks and a flat handlebar that fit me just fine in original form. When I put a drop bar on them, they suddenly became waaaay too long no matter how high or short a stem I used. I am trying to avoid a repeat of those. When I did those experiments, I has the keys to a bike co-op, so I could go in any time and tinker. I no longer have that luxury.
mack_turtle is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 01:44 AM
  #9  
tangerineowl
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oz
Posts: 931

Bikes: Curve Grovel v2 ti

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 257 Post(s)
Liked 84 Times in 73 Posts
Originally Posted by mack_turtle
Sorry if I was unclear about my concerns. I don't care what it looks like, I just want it to fit me. Because bikes from that era never had reach and stack published, I can't easily compare older bikes that way unless I can get my hands on the bike first.
Background: I've tried this with a 17" Bianchi Boardwalk and a 17" Scott Laredo. Both steel framed hybrids with rigid forks and a flat handlebar that fit me just fine in original form. When I put a drop bar on them, they suddenly became waaaay too long no matter how high or short a stem I used. I am trying to avoid a repeat of those. When I did those experiments, I has the keys to a bike co-op, so I could go in any time and tinker. I no longer have that luxury.
With time looking at side-on pics of a frame triangle you can spot shorter-reach/taller-stack potentials.

For example, the old Trek Antelope. Bringing up Google Image pics and straightaway it seems the smaller sizes look too low at the front. However go up a few sizes and you can see a decent-height head tube start showing up. e.g. currently on ***red-it***there's one of the larger Antelope built up as a drop bar 650b conversion. Even though the pic shows a stem that's a little shorter than normal, the reach and stack is pretty good (I asked the owner to measure those numbers and it came up very similar to my short-reach gravel frame). Its the blue frame bike with tan walls.

https://velozout.blogspot.com/2015/05...elope-820.html In this smaller frame Antelope dropbar you can see how the frame is longer proportionally.

Last edited by tangerineowl; 08-26-20 at 01:56 AM. Reason: txt
tangerineowl is offline  
Likes For tangerineowl:
Old 08-26-20, 05:32 AM
  #10  
mack_turtle
n00b
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,397

Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey, Twin Six Standard Rando

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 273 Posts
Originally Posted by tangerineowl
With time looking at side-on pics of a frame triangle you can spot shorter-reach/taller-stack potentials.

For example, the old Trek Antelope. Bringing up Google Image pics and straightaway it seems the smaller sizes look too low at the front. However go up a few sizes and you can see a decent-height head tube start showing up.
that's a good point. many of those frames have stubby little head tubes and high bottom brackets (meaning they feature less drop) than modern counterparts, so the stack is low. if I go up sizes to get more stack, though, the longer the reach gets. additionally, the high BB on those bikes might not make a a stable ride. I'll keep looking though, and maybe I'll find something that will work.
mack_turtle is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 06:45 AM
  #11  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,890

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 752 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 799 Times in 467 Posts
Originally Posted by mack_turtle
...that fit me just fine in original form. When I put a drop bar on them, they suddenly became waaaay too long no matter how high or short a stem I used. I am trying to avoid a repeat of those. When I did those experiments, I has the keys to a bike co-op, so I could go in any time and tinker. I no longer have that luxury.
There's nothing sudden about it. Nearly everything is known before you start a conversion. Drop bar specs (reach) are published on most bars. Sites like:

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

give you a specific idea of the impact a stem will have on stack and reach.

Stack and reach isn't published on vintage frames, but seat tube and top tube length usually is, as well as the frame angles. If you have a stack-reach range that you know fits you well, then the potential for a drop-bar conversion fit can be ballparked reasonably well. If no specs are available and you at least have a side photo of the bike, then you can use parts on the bike to make scale measurements of the tob tube and seat tube (example..the crank is most often 170mm..measure the crank arm and then use that to make scale measurements of anything else). The shorter headtubes on some bikes usually means some stem extension is needed. Longer exposed stem results in shorter (handlebar) reach..this can be estimated with the stem calculator above.

There are always some unknowns with how a converted bike will all feel in the end, but most of the mystery can be taken out before you start.

edit: I should have mentioned...in making estimates on how a conversion will go, you'll need to work with both the frame stack and reach as well as the handlebar/flat-bar stack and reach AND the potential drop bar stack and reach...the key is to put the new bars in the "space" that's comfortable for you to ride. That "space" can be calculated-estimated before you start.

Last edited by fishboat; 08-26-20 at 06:51 AM. Reason: forgot..
fishboat is offline  
Likes For fishboat:
Old 08-26-20, 07:07 AM
  #12  
mack_turtle
n00b
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,397

Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey, Twin Six Standard Rando

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 273 Posts
Originally Posted by fishboat
There's nothing sudden about it. Nearly everything is known before you start a conversion. Drop bar specs (reach) are published on most bars. Sites like:

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

give you a specific idea of the impact a stem will have on stack and reach.
yes, I have that bookmarked and use it extensively. I also like to send people to:
whatbars.com
bikegeo.net
bikegeo.muha.cc

I think that second link can help you estimate the reach and stack on a vintage bike with some degree of accuracy. useful for conversions, but I didn't know how to use it at the time of those builds mentioned above.

I've seen that thread about vintage conversions and I probably need to spend more time reading it carefully. most of it is photos of conversions but I would need to know the frame size and the rider's height as a starting point. that information is not always given. the rider just says in effect "I slapped a some drop bars [sic] on this bike and it rides like a dream!" I have pretty average proportions with perhaps longer legs for my height.
mack_turtle is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 07:18 AM
  #13  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,890

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 752 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 799 Times in 467 Posts
Originally Posted by mack_turtle
...I've seen that thread about vintage conversions and I probably need to spend more time reading it carefully. most of it is photos of conversions but I would need to know the frame size and the rider's height as a starting point. that information is not always given. the rider just says in effect "I slapped a some drop bars [sic] on this bike and it rides like a dream!" I have pretty average proportions with perhaps longer legs for my height.
I've reviewed/read/searched that thread for hours..there's lot's of discussion about all aspects of a conversion. The problem is, the thread is so big that searching it is cumbersome. I tried to get the entire thread into one document to allow broad searching of all of it at one time..no success in that, so I searched it by page, by topic..as needed.

I don't understand why "frame size and rider's height" in that thread is necessary. You create lots of roadblocks..do the research and numbers from the knowledge of what frame & handlebar stack and reach fit's you. If you're not sure what fits you..then you need to start there, as any conversion without that knowledge is a random walk..
fishboat is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 08:04 AM
  #14  
mack_turtle
n00b
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,397

Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey, Twin Six Standard Rando

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 273 Posts
Originally Posted by fishboat
I've reviewed/read/searched that thread for hours..there's lot's of discussion about all aspects of a conversion. The problem is, the thread is so big that searching it is cumbersome. I tried to get the entire thread into one document to allow broad searching of all of it at one time..no success in that, so I searched it by page, by topic..as needed.

I don't understand why "frame size and rider's height" in that thread is necessary. You create lots of roadblocks..do the research and numbers from the knowledge of what frame & handlebar stack and reach fit's you. If you're not sure what fits you..then you need to start there, as any conversion without that knowledge is a random walk..
this is what fits me:

so I have a for range stack, reach, and ETT, but it might be possible to fit a bike with different measurements by changing the stem length and height. a frame that has a longer ETT sounds too big at first, but when you raise the stem quite a bit, the reach becomes shorter. at a certain point, that could compromise handling, though. I'll keep an eye out for something that can fit like the above within reason.
mack_turtle is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 08:21 AM
  #15  
bikemig 
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,505

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5877 Post(s)
Liked 3,445 Times in 2,066 Posts
This is a good thread with useful info on bike fitting. I'm working on a drop bar conversion on a '92 Specialized Stumpjumper and I'll use some of the websites linked to in this thread to run some numbers.

It sounds like the OP has made up his mind to go with a drop bar conversion but the right flat bar can make for a good gravel bike as well. I like trekking bars and installed a set on a 1992 Trek 950. They're comfortable and cheap. And the set up issues disappear.

One thing I was going to suggest is that maybe it is possible to overthink this? I dunno. I set up my first drop bar conversion with a 1987 Specialized stumpjumper. I measured the seat and top tube and then guesstimated the set up. It worked out fine. I think bike set up tends to based on rules of thumb that in turn are based on lots of data points from experienced riders, racers, etc.

Last edited by bikemig; 08-26-20 at 08:35 AM.
bikemig is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 10:49 AM
  #16  
zen_
Full Member
 
zen_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 232
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Liked 88 Times in 55 Posts
I did a couple 90s steel bikes last year (Schwinn CrissCross 700c hybrid and Specialized Rockhopper 26" MTB). They both had kinda wonky geometry with the long top tubes, and short head tubes that I could never quite get right. They were fun projects, but I just couldn't see myself riding thousands of miles on them due to the fit, weight and crummy brakes, so I got a modern steel bike. The only conversion I would consider doing now would be a really, really nice Trek 750 with a lugged, made in USA frame, and no expense spared on the parts to keep the weight down, the fit as good as possible, and the brakes as good as you can get from rim.
zen_ is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 11:53 AM
  #17  
mstateglfr 
Sunshine
 
mstateglfr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,538

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo

Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10902 Post(s)
Liked 7,393 Times in 4,148 Posts
Originally Posted by zen_
The only conversion I would consider doing now would be a really, really nice Trek 750 with a lugged, made in USA frame, and no expense spared on the parts to keep the weight down, the fit as good as possible, and the brakes as good as you can get from rim.
my brother in law converted a lugged 750 frame to drop bar- they were really cool frames. I was shocked when he said he was going to sell it because its just a solid neat frame.
he went opposite you though and kept the conversion cheap so it isnt a featherweight.
here it is mid-conversion.

Last edited by mstateglfr; 08-26-20 at 11:58 AM.
mstateglfr is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 12:50 PM
  #18  
zen_
Full Member
 
zen_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 232
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Liked 88 Times in 55 Posts
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
my brother in law converted a lugged 750 frame to drop bar- they were really cool frames. I was shocked when he said he was going to sell it because its just a solid neat frame.
he went opposite you though and kept the conversion cheap so it isnt a featherweight.
here it is mid-conversion.
Yep, that's exactly the type of bike I would convert, even though I passed on one that came up on eBay a few weeks ago for $150. All the little parts add up to a lot of extra weight like using a heavy quill stem adapter, old square taper crank, and old hyrbid wheels. If it was done with a little more $ put in (2x11 with hollowtech crank, lighter wheels with tubeless tires, and careful component selection), it would actually be a very good bike, sans the brakes. Some day I'll build one as a backup / recovery fun day bike.
zen_ is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 02:00 PM
  #19  
mack_turtle
n00b
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,397

Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey, Twin Six Standard Rando

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 273 Posts
Originally Posted by bikemig
It sounds like the OP has made up his mind to go with a drop bar conversion but the right flat bar can make for a good gravel bike as well. I like trekking bars and installed a set on a 1992 Trek 950. They're comfortable and cheap. And the set up issues disappear.
I've definitely considered this. I think the obsession with the drop bar borders on a fetish for some people. however, I have tried using a flatbar bike as a go-anywhere "gravel" bike, including two gravel races and I found that it sucked. I played with gearing, tires, bar ends, TOGS, different oddball handlebars and grips on two different bikes. no matter what I did, the fit was fine but getting blasted by a headwind on an open farm road in north Texas was miserable and I missed the options that a drop bar gave me. I'm sure it works for some people and that's fine, but not for my subjective riding experience. I ended up buying a cheap CX bike but the lack or tire clearance is eating at me.

My main goal is to get something with a drop bar and room for tires wider than 35mm. my focus on converting and old bike comes from just being cheap. new bikes are expensive and the used market is all over the place. I thought that if I could make it work with an old bike, I could spend a lot less and be happy. it still might work, but scouring the local used marketplace is exhausting. I constantly see crapped-out old bikes that have good bones that should probably sell for $150, but because they are "vintage" people are willing to pay 2x or more than that.
mack_turtle is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 02:06 PM
  #20  
bikemig 
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,505

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5877 Post(s)
Liked 3,445 Times in 2,066 Posts
One way to avoid the fit issues you may have with a drop bar conversion of a bike designed for flat bars is to start with a road bike and go with a 650b conversion. That need not be uber expensive. Quality, lightweight road bikes can be had for reasonable prices if you shop hard and can live with some patina. Spreading an old frame to 130 is not hard and then you can run modern gearing.

Here is a long thread with some ideas:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
bikemig is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 02:12 PM
  #21  
mack_turtle
n00b
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,397

Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey, Twin Six Standard Rando

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 273 Posts
Originally Posted by bikemig
One way to avoid the fit issues you may have with a drop bar conversion of a bike designed for flat bars is to start with a road bike and go with a 650b conversion.
I tried that too. my bike has "room" for 700C 35mm tires with a sliver of clearance on the sides. I put a borrowed 650B wheel on it and the clearance is oddly the same because of the way the dimples in the chainstays taper off in toward the back.
mack_turtle is offline  
Old 08-26-20, 02:18 PM
  #22  
bikemig 
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,505

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5877 Post(s)
Liked 3,445 Times in 2,066 Posts
There is no point, IMO, of doing a 650b conversion unless you can fit at least a 38c tire. Otherwise you may run into issues with the bottom bracket dropping down (650b x 38c is roughly the diameter of 700c by 23c if memory serves me). Plus finding a 700c bike that can take a 35c tire is no big deal (just find a touring bike or a bike that uses a "long" reach brake). So I don't think a 650b conversion is worth your time unless you can fit a 38c to 42c tire. And there are plenty of people who have done that with 650b conversions.
bikemig is offline  
Likes For bikemig:
Old 08-26-20, 02:47 PM
  #23  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,890

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 752 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 799 Times in 467 Posts
Originally Posted by zen_
The only conversion I would consider doing now would be a really, really nice Trek 750 with a lugged, made in USA frame, and no expense spared on the parts to keep the weight down, the fit as good as possible, and the brakes as good as you can get from rim.
This one was done for my GF last year. This is a dated pic. The saddle has been changed to a Cobb V-Flow, and a new set of wheels are now on it. She runs Gravelking 700x38 slicks..I set it up at about 60psi in the tires...she's lightly built. She LOVES the bike...she says it's fast("It pedals SO easy") and has a very cushy ride. It's a 1991 750 I got for $100 in near new condition. It was re-worked with Claris 3x8. Drivetrain works very smoothly. OEM caliper brakes with koolstop pads stop on a dime.

This is her all-rounder bike for occasional day rides, gravel, and touring. We've toured with it..she rides with about 30# of gear in a 4 pannier setup and says it handles great...it appears to as she keeps a healthy pace on it. We're setting up another week-long tour now.

fishboat is offline  
Likes For fishboat:
Old 08-26-20, 03:59 PM
  #24  
tangerineowl
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oz
Posts: 931

Bikes: Curve Grovel v2 ti

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 257 Post(s)
Liked 84 Times in 73 Posts
Originally Posted by mack_turtle
if I go up sizes to get more stack, though, the longer the reach gets. additionally, the high BB on those bikes might not make a a stable ride. I'll keep looking though, and maybe I'll find something that will work.
That is true for some bikes. The larger size Antelope I mentioned doesn't push out the frame length as much. I could fit it with a 70mm stem and the frame reach and stack would be similar to my 363reach/578stack dropbar frame.

Lower BB also requires hunting around for.
tangerineowl is offline  
Likes For tangerineowl:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.