Raleigh DL1 Lady's Tourist: Restoration So Far
#51
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I've never had rod brakes. I wonder if they are really lower maintenance than cable brakes. Anyway, all of that is good news.
There is something charismatic about a bike with a shallow head tube angle, even to me, and I normally ride steep-angled bikes.
There is something charismatic about a bike with a shallow head tube angle, even to me, and I normally ride steep-angled bikes.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#52
Senior Member
We played around with the rod brakes some more and they are much improved. The front brake stops very well. The rear brake no longer has the problem where it activates during sharp left turns. It works quite well and almost doesn't screech (actually it was more of a "mooing" sound). So altogether the braking power is now more than acceptable and in the "pretty good" category. In dry weather of course.
this is my experience as well. my dutch bike has nearly the same geometry and size as my DL1 (people mistake my dutch bike for a raleigh roadster all the time), yet my DL1 feels better, just...wonderful to cruise around on. "at ease" is an apt way of putting it.
#53
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southpaw - We're going to go ahead and order the brake pads : )
BTW, here is the bike in its latest state: with the pump in the correct position, with a vintage saddlebag, and B18 "Lady" saddle.
BTW, here is the bike in its latest state: with the pump in the correct position, with a vintage saddlebag, and B18 "Lady" saddle.
Likes For Veloria:
#54
aka Tom Reingold
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The pump fix makes it look much better. The whole thing is so, ... well, lovely!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#57
Senior Member
veloria, i've been following this and your other vintage bikes and i must say that you have a knack for fleshing out the aesthetic allure of classic bikes by subtle cosmetic changes and selective use of accessories. the dress guard, cream schwalbes and saddle back look fantastic on the DL1.
how do you think swapping out the black shift cable for white would look? i assume you're also going to replace the black grips with shellacked cork ones? have you considered adding a velo-orange leather mud flap?
how do you think swapping out the black shift cable for white would look? i assume you're also going to replace the black grips with shellacked cork ones? have you considered adding a velo-orange leather mud flap?
#58
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veloria, i've been following this and your other vintage bikes and i must say that you have a knack for fleshing out the aesthetic allure of classic bikes by subtle cosmetic changes and selective use of accessories. the dress guard, cream schwalbes and saddle back look fantastic on the DL1.
On an unrelated note - You won't believe it, but the same local collector from whom I got this DL-1 contacted me today and said he had something neat to show me. I went to see him and it was a 1930s Raleigh Loop frame bicycle (possibly also DL-1? Not sure.) with all original parts. All original, including fully intact chaincase, early SA shifter, "patent pending" SA hub, and early vintage Terry saddle. The geometry is quite odd, not at all like the DL-1 in this thread (seat tube length is the same, but distance between seat tube and head tube is much shorter - why?) In any case, long story short: the thing is mine now. It will be living at Open Bicycle in Somerville if anyone cares to see it, and I will gradually recover my senses and see whether it is possible to refurbish it. No idea what I shall do with it after that; it belongs in a museum really. I am still in shock from seeing it, let alone owning it.
#59
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Any idea where I can get a rack to suit this bicycle? I have found that few racks will fit a 28" roadster. The saddle bag looks a bit off here, because my saddle is not sufficiently raised - so it's somewhat squished between the saddle and the fender. But still better than nothing, as I need some sort of container on the bike. (Somehow a basket did not seem fitting with her stately demeanor.)
#60
Senior Member
on a larger frame you can, since the seat tube is longer. i have the same saddle bag on my 24" men's DL1 as the one veloria has on her 22" ladies'. it rests on the original rack. the bag is positioned about 1" higher relative to the saddle, compared to veloria's, but it's fine.
veloria, racks for the DL1 were not that uncommon, actually. they were all tubular steel, painted black. (i really need to get some pics of my DL1 posted one of these days... )
but i do think it would be very hard to find a new rack that would fit and also look the part. i would ask the guys at oldroads.com if they have an old one in a pile somewhere. they do look really nice on a DL1.
veloria, racks for the DL1 were not that uncommon, actually. they were all tubular steel, painted black. (i really need to get some pics of my DL1 posted one of these days... )
but i do think it would be very hard to find a new rack that would fit and also look the part. i would ask the guys at oldroads.com if they have an old one in a pile somewhere. they do look really nice on a DL1.
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I have seen 26"-wheel Raleighs with original racks, but almost never 28". I just sold a green Sprite with original rack and a bunch of other rare components.
#62
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i guess if neither place has a DL1 rack, another option would be swap meets. the last swap meet at larz anderson saw a ton of DL1s and a fair amount of DL1 parts...
#63
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Swap meets have a nasty tendency to conflict with my conference schedule, but I will try!
PS - Have a look at post #58 on this thread.
PS - Have a look at post #58 on this thread.
#64
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You know, I have not had luck getting parts from them. When I ask about such things, I have been told that they need them too. When I do get parts, it is usually from Yellow Jersey. Having to pay shipping sucks though.
I have seen 26"-wheel Raleighs with original racks, but almost never 28". I just sold a green Sprite with original rack and a bunch of other rare components.
I have seen 26"-wheel Raleighs with original racks, but almost never 28". I just sold a green Sprite with original rack and a bunch of other rare components.
Yellow Jersey has a rack for their Eastman Roadster that fits the DL, I saw at the ABCE in September.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#65
Senior Member
Swap meets have a nasty tendency to conflict with my conference schedule, but I will try!
PS - Have a look at post #58 on this thread.
PS - Have a look at post #58 on this thread.
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I recommend the Steco rack with fold down stand. You can get one from classic-cycle.de in Germany. Just ask the owner since it isn't listed on the website and if there's something you want but can't get in the States, he should be able to find it. There's also a matching Steco porteur style front rack you can get from David Hembrow. The one that is affixed to the handlebar will support his large wicker basket perfectly!
#67
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Veloria, hope to see pictures of the new-old Raleigh soon.
No wonder you didn't blink at moving the green Sports, you are a certified bike magnet!
No wonder you didn't blink at moving the green Sports, you are a certified bike magnet!
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Okay, now I have a somewhat silly question:
Does anyone know whether it is possible to get decals with the older-style Raleigh logo for the downtube? For that matter, is the logo on the downtube removable, or is it under a clear coat? I tired to scratch at it gently, but can't tell and do not want to ruin the finish if it is clear-coated. If it is on the surface, then it does not come off easily.
I would like to remove the italic logo and replace it with an older style - or a custom decal, maybe with the bicycle's name.
Does anyone know whether it is possible to get decals with the older-style Raleigh logo for the downtube? For that matter, is the logo on the downtube removable, or is it under a clear coat? I tired to scratch at it gently, but can't tell and do not want to ruin the finish if it is clear-coated. If it is on the surface, then it does not come off easily.
I would like to remove the italic logo and replace it with an older style - or a custom decal, maybe with the bicycle's name.
#69
Senior Member
Okay, now I have a somewhat silly question:
Does anyone know whether it is possible to get decals with the older-style Raleigh logo for the downtube? For that matter, is the logo on the downtube removable, or is it under a clear coat? I tired to scratch at it gently, but can't tell and do not want to ruin the finish if it is clear-coated. If it is on the surface, then it does not come off easily.
I would like to remove the italic logo and replace it with an older style - or a custom decal, maybe with the bicycle's name.
Does anyone know whether it is possible to get decals with the older-style Raleigh logo for the downtube? For that matter, is the logo on the downtube removable, or is it under a clear coat? I tired to scratch at it gently, but can't tell and do not want to ruin the finish if it is clear-coated. If it is on the surface, then it does not come off easily.
I would like to remove the italic logo and replace it with an older style - or a custom decal, maybe with the bicycle's name.
i can't remember whether the decals on the 70s raleighs were clearcoated or not, or if it depended on the model. i'm sure others can tell you more definitively. on my competition, some of the decals were vinyl, some were thin transfers, and some appeared painted... weird.
while on the topic of decals, i'm looking for a custom or one-off headbadge decal for my shogun. it can be anything, doesn't have to have the shogun insignia, i just want it to be unique (and oval, or round, to fit the head tube). do you know anyone with cool decals?
Last edited by southpawboston; 10-26-09 at 10:19 AM.
#70
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On my 70's vintage Raleighs the decals are not clear coated.
Get good clear pictures with dimensions and there are a couple of places that can do high quality reproductions. There is one here on the boards IIRC Jrestore or something similar.
Aaron
Get good clear pictures with dimensions and there are a couple of places that can do high quality reproductions. There is one here on the boards IIRC Jrestore or something similar.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#71
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Thanks for the advice re decals.
To get back to whether it is possible to convert the rod brakes into rod-activated hubs: Someone in Portland (OR) has just mentioned on my website that they have a DL-1 "Royal Tourist" which they believe to be from 1980 that came with rod-activated hub brakes. I hope this means that I could, in theory at least, find the spare parts from one of such bikes and fit it onto my 1972 DL-1...
To get back to whether it is possible to convert the rod brakes into rod-activated hubs: Someone in Portland (OR) has just mentioned on my website that they have a DL-1 "Royal Tourist" which they believe to be from 1980 that came with rod-activated hub brakes. I hope this means that I could, in theory at least, find the spare parts from one of such bikes and fit it onto my 1972 DL-1...
#72
Senior Member
Thanks for the advice re decals.
To get back to whether it is possible to convert the rod brakes into rod-activated hubs: Someone in Portland (OR) has just mentioned on my website that they have a DL-1 "Royal Tourist" which they believe to be from 1980 that came with rod-activated hub brakes. I hope this means that I could, in theory at least, find the spare parts from one of such bikes and fit it onto my 1972 DL-1...
To get back to whether it is possible to convert the rod brakes into rod-activated hubs: Someone in Portland (OR) has just mentioned on my website that they have a DL-1 "Royal Tourist" which they believe to be from 1980 that came with rod-activated hub brakes. I hope this means that I could, in theory at least, find the spare parts from one of such bikes and fit it onto my 1972 DL-1...
so it wouldn't surprise me if raleigh made a rod-drum brake variant as well, either for the UK market or elsewhere in europe. if i were to hunt such parts down, i would focus on denmark and holland, two countries where there are still millions of old bikes being ridden and repaired regularly.
on the other hand, if you want to retain the rod brakes, you can always build this into your DL1 :-).
Last edited by southpawboston; 11-03-09 at 05:50 PM.
#73
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so it wouldn't surprise me if raleigh made a rod-drum brake variant as well, either for the UK market or elsewhere in europe. if i were to hunt such parts down, i would focus on denmark and holland, two countries where there are still millions of old bikes being ridden and repaired regularly.
on the other hand, if you want to retain the rod brakes, you can always build this into your DL1 :-).
so it wouldn't surprise me if raleigh made a rod-drum brake variant as well, either for the UK market or elsewhere in europe. if i were to hunt such parts down, i would focus on denmark and holland, two countries where there are still millions of old bikes being ridden and repaired regularly.
on the other hand, if you want to retain the rod brakes, you can always build this into your DL1 :-).
I would buy that dyno hub if I knew what I was doing, but I don't yet.
Which hub should I look for that has a drum brake in it?...
This is the fellow's bike btw:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/poetas/...7610946160663/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/poetas/3755763635/in/set-72157610946160663/
#74
Senior Member
i think he has the same front and rear drum brakes as my union. the rear appears to be a type "AB" and i don't know the model code for the front one. but honestly, i don't think sturmey archer changed their drum brakes much between the 30s and the 80s. they probably made shell variants for different #s of spokes. does your DL1 have 36H rims front and rear?