New Leather Saddle Thread!
#1
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New Leather Saddle Thread!
What do you people ride these days? Rivet? Selle Anatomica? Berthoud? or what?
We don't have to just talk about leather!
We don't have to just talk about leather!
#2
Senior Member
I ride my B17 90% of the time. As it happens, earlier this week I put my Selle Anatomica on my fast-ish bike in preparation for a fast-and-light tour down the east coast, and after a test ride I remembered why I haven't ridden it in years; it squeaks like a bag of mice.
I've never been able to get rid of the squeak completely, and have tried all the usual methods; nylon washer on the tension bolt, greasing inside the nose and the metal-to-metal interfaces, etc. They help for about a day, and then the noise returns, which is NOT what I want to deal with on a multiday tour.
I've never been able to get rid of the squeak completely, and have tried all the usual methods; nylon washer on the tension bolt, greasing inside the nose and the metal-to-metal interfaces, etc. They help for about a day, and then the noise returns, which is NOT what I want to deal with on a multiday tour.
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#3
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I haven't had the squeak, but I've been having trouble adjusting mine, hence I'm looking for an alternative. I also need a second Brooks B17 Select for Mrs. Road Fan's stoker seat, or a worthy alternative.
#4
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I find the S-A to be quite comfy, just incredibly annoying. :-) In my case, I've had the B17 with a slight upwards tilt on all my bikes, but the S-A needs to be slightly nose-down, and slightly more to the rear, for best results.
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#5
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Brooks "Professional" or Idéale mod. 90 or 92 for me, thank you.
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I ride on Selle Anatomica. Have no issues with it. Am going to experiment with it being nosed down to see if there is any noticeable difference in how I feel.
#7
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B17s on my mounts (I'd like to try one of the others but the shops expect me to pay for them )
As for the squeak. I just turn the bike upside down and put a bit of chain oil where the leather touches metal. It usually fixes things and on only one saddle have I had to repeat the application... the saddle that's talking to me now and which I keep forgetting to do it to
As for the squeak. I just turn the bike upside down and put a bit of chain oil where the leather touches metal. It usually fixes things and on only one saddle have I had to repeat the application... the saddle that's talking to me now and which I keep forgetting to do it to
#8
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My leather saddles are Brooks. Mostly B17s with one that's a B17 titanium, I believe.
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I want to get this Lepper Driver 90 for my NSU.
I want to get this Lepper Driver 90 for my NSU.
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Last edited by 1989Pre; 05-05-18 at 06:09 PM.
#10
Old guy on a Bike
B17, B15 and Ideale 90 Rebour. I have a nice model 90 where one of the supports has broken away from the round steel washer where it should be attached. Anyone know of a way to reattach==without damaging the leather?
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B17 uncomfortable for me (sold-off 2), although I've been told it doesn't suit my riding style, not a tourer or commuter. Brooks Swift is a bit narrow. An older B15 is OK.
Selle Anatomica on one bike is good. The rest of my leather saddles were acquired used - Ideale, Wrights, Palace, Belt, Troxel and are well broken in mostly.
I also like newer saddles with a split in the middle - Selle Italia SLI, and the Selle SMP which has the slightly drouped nose.
edit: guess i'm not too picky. but i try not to plant my bottom on the saddle for long periods of time.
Selle Anatomica on one bike is good. The rest of my leather saddles were acquired used - Ideale, Wrights, Palace, Belt, Troxel and are well broken in mostly.
I also like newer saddles with a split in the middle - Selle Italia SLI, and the Selle SMP which has the slightly drouped nose.
edit: guess i'm not too picky. but i try not to plant my bottom on the saddle for long periods of time.
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Last edited by Wildwood; 07-28-17 at 09:37 AM.
#13
Non omnino gravis
Have the occasional issue with the tension bolt housing making a soft knock sound with my Titanico X, but it has otherwise been as close to perfect as I reckon a saddle could be. I have NO idea how people are running them nose down-- Selle Anatomica says to start with the nose of the saddle up 1/8 to 1/4" from level, and I run mine even just a little bit past that.
Close to 8,000 miles on mine, and I've used just 5 threads on the tension bolt.
Close to 8,000 miles on mine, and I've used just 5 threads on the tension bolt.
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I've had Selle Anatomica X series on both bikes for about 3 years. Very happy.
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#16
Old guy on a Bike
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Have the occasional issue with the tension bolt housing making a soft knock sound with my Titanico X, but it has otherwise been as close to perfect as I reckon a saddle could be. I have NO idea how people are running them nose down-- Selle Anatomica says to start with the nose of the saddle up 1/8 to 1/4" from level, and I run mine even just a little bit past that.
Close to 8,000 miles on mine, and I've used just 5 threads on the tension bolt.
Close to 8,000 miles on mine, and I've used just 5 threads on the tension bolt.
I did break the rails on an older one (made in 2011), but got them replaced with the newer carbon steel rails. No complaints or problems since. Made in USA, and they have continually refined the saddle over the last decade.
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Selle Anatomica X. Great saddle. No break in required. Very good installation video on their website.
#20
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Two-year-old maroon(!) Brooks Team Pro, replacing a 45K mile/45-year-old Pro that still has some life left in it. It takes me longer to break in a Brooks now than it did 40 years ago.
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#21
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That could probably be fixed. Drill out the rivets, remove the leather, braze or weld the rail back in place, re-install the leather. Wallingford Bike used to stock the oversize copper rivets, and I think you can get them directly from Brooks as well.
#22
Senior Member
I wonder how many leather saddle threads have been started on these forums. There are a lot of people who love their Brooks B17s(I'm one of them); then there are others who like other leather saddles,; and then there are those who can't stand them, well they can't sit them.
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Tandy Leather sells copper rivets that would work. There is also a very nice man on these forums that rebuilds leather saddles. His username is Rhm. Maybe he could chime in? Definitely salvageable, don't discard it!
#24
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I am assuming I am looking at the rail which is now not attached to the seat frame, correct?
Edit: I looked again and think I see the problem. But I think my approach above will still work, just a lot less drilling. I bet the FH or OH screw wil fit nicely inot th elarger seat frame hole with the head edges below the surrounding leather. Done right, visible, but looking good. (And maybe later, you drill out the other side and make the rivit/screws symmetric.)
Ben
Last edited by 79pmooney; 07-30-17 at 12:07 PM.
#25
Old guy on a Bike
Here's a pic of the top side and those nice Ideale rivets.