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Painting Tools ?

Old 02-23-15, 05:05 PM
  #26  
FarHorizon
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I've decided that I don't plan to keep this frame, so cleaning it up on the cheap is a priority. I have some chemical paint removing gel in the shed, so gloves with apron, face shield, and a toothbrush should suffice to get down to the steel. Once there, I have some rust bonder, so cleaning up the rust spots should be doable. Then, prime, paint, cook, & detail and the thing's ready for CraigsList!

The other question is: "Is it worth painting a frame just for a CL sale, or should I just sell it as a DIY project? I doubt that the whole bike will bring any more than $200, even pimped out. I could probably sell the frame as is for $50 and the parts for another $100, so all the clean up & painting work I do would only return but about $50...

Plan B (less labor intensive but maybe worth it since the frame is already stripped) is to wire-brush off the rust, lightly buff the remaining glossy paint, and then just rattle-can spray over what's there. I know that the painting purists will gag at the idea, but it may be the best option...
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Old 02-23-15, 05:55 PM
  #27  
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I have painted 2 frames, with good results. One using rattle can and the other using automotive paint in a Pre-val sprayer. I don't think the tool you use will make a huge amount of difference, it is all prep, thin coats, and patience

Automotive paint is much more durable, but much more expensive and toxic.

Overall in the future I think I would go powder coat (an the first frame I did is get close to needing that).

one thing to consider is cost. and the second is time.

Assuming you do the paint job right (down to bare metal) even using rattlle cans is expensive, especially if like me you do lots of thin coats to get a godd finish. Part of it is, at least for me, is that there is lots of over spray from spraying a complex form (bike) from a decent distance away

so think (and put your local costs)


Good mask $40
chemical stripper
steel wool brushes etc
acetone
tack cloth
sand paper
etching primer
High fill primer
color
clear
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Old 02-23-15, 06:35 PM
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I am far from a professional, I've painted 2 custom hot rod with flames, and a jeep I restored, using a high dollar Sata sprayer. I've painted around 15 bikes. I use a $12 Harbor Freight sprayer, works awesome, with a disposable water filter and a regulator. I sandblast the frames, I turn the pressure down to about 80-90psi. Takes longer to blast the frame, but it only takes off the paint with no damage to the metal. Once I'm done I sand the whole frame with 100g paper. The metal will shine and any dents or scratches will remain dull. I take care of any flaws with body filler. Wipe the frame down with acetone, then another wipe down with a tack cloth. I use Dupli-color paint shop paint from Auto zone. Its a lacquer that is very user friendly, sets up super fast. $75 for a quart of primer, color and clear. You need lacquer thinner for cleaning the *** and acetone to lightly thin the primer paint and clear. 3 coats of primer, 15 minutes wait in-between coats. 30 minutes before wet sanding. 3 coats of color, same wait time as primer. you can wet sand the color unless its metallic. If you need to wet sand the metallic paint, do another coat before clear. Same process with the clear. the first coat of primer, color and clear should be a light mist, this acts as a good adhesive for the other coats you apply. Let cure for about a week before assembly. Its really not a hard process, I usually paint outside hanging from the swing set. I immediately bring it in the garage to set up. I've actually sprayed outside in 35-40 degree weather with no problems, but its not ideal. Like I said, I'm not a professional painter, but I've had nice results.









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Old 02-23-15, 06:35 PM
  #29  
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Old 02-23-15, 10:55 PM
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Nice work sloar. I'm curious, how does the durability of the duplicolor lacquer compare to the 2 part automotive urethanes?
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Old 02-23-15, 11:05 PM
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No complaints at all with the lacquer. The automotive paint is more durable, but also a lot more expensive.
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