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Need advice for new wheels

Old 02-25-21, 07:36 PM
  #1  
Iawestrr
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Need advice for new wheels

Greetings.


I have a 2002 Cannondale R700 road bike, and am looking to replace the original Mavic XP21 wheels. There are 2 main reasons for doing this. 1) - I hope to shed a bit of bike weight between the old and new wheels, whatever they end up being. 2) - I currently run a Sram 1x10 system. 10 is the most rings I can have on the old wheels. I want the new wheels to be able to accept either 11 or 12 rings, so that I can run either a 1x11 or a 1x12 system.


The bike currently weighs about 22 lbs (is 52cm), and I weigh about 160 lbs. I am the original owner, the bike has over 10,000 miles on it, and the paint job is the red-white-blue one that Cannondale did on this model after the 9-11-01 terrorist attacks. I have to stick with rim brakes, don't want to attempt to convert to disk brakes. I run 700x25 tires and have to stick with that size. There is barely enough clearance to get the wheel/tire off between the calipers as it is. I ride mostly paved trails or roads, rarely or never ride on gravel. Am prepared to spend some money here. What brand would you recommend I go with to give me value for the 2 points noted above???


Incidentally, the Mavic rims will be for sale when I make the change out this spring, if anyone is interested.


Thx in advance,

Mark VW
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Old 02-25-21, 08:13 PM
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rm -rf
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I like the newer wide rims. My 25mm GP4000 tires measure close to 29mm, so I can run much lower air pressure and still have a fast ride. I used to use 90psi front and 105 psi rear on 23mm tires on older rims. Now, it's 65-70psi front and 80 psi rear. Smooth and fast.
But your 2002 bike probably doesn't have clearance for an effectively larger tire, either height or width.

My rims are 20.5 mm inside width, and 25.5mm outside. Yours might be 17mm or less inside width. I originally put 23mm tires on the wide rims, measuring 26.5 mm wide, and they worked fine.
Perhaps running 23mm tires on wide rims, effectively 25 or 26mm, would fit.

(Brakes aren't a problem, since the tires aren't much wider than the rims. So the brakes are set up wider to work with the wide rims.)

I use hex wrenches to estimate how much clearance I have at the tread and sidewalls, both front and rear wheel. A 5mm hex is 5mm across the flats. Sometimes the smallest gap is at the brake arms, over the tread.
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Old 02-25-21, 08:17 PM
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Go to a good bike shop for your new wheels. They may be able to recommend some off-the-shelf wheels and/or give you options for custom-built wheels (which are not necessarily hella expensive). They can also advise you on the costs of moving to a 1x11 or 1x12 drivetrain, which will not be cheap.
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Old 02-25-21, 10:28 PM
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You couldnt run disc even if you wanted so that isnt an issue.

There are seemingly endless wheel options. You gave a lot of info, but not much in the way of narrowing down options to suggest.

You said you are ready to spend money- does thst mean $300? $700? $1500?
Do you want carbon rims or aluminum??

Answers to those questions will help a lot.

A forum poster owns a wheelbuilding company qith offerings at various pricepoints. Its a better place to start than most. - https://www.psimet.com/

Last edited by mstateglfr; 02-26-21 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 02-26-21, 05:28 AM
  #5  
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^ this. How much are you willing to budget for these? Actually, this wheelset is part of a larger, more expensive project to upgrade your drivetrain. Shifters, derailleur, cassette, wheelset, tires... What is the budget plan and overall concept? This is sounding like a $850-900 project to me...
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Old 02-26-21, 07:23 AM
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Check your current clearance. Sides and top. Also the inside width. Like said above Oder bikes donít necessarily have much room. Most newer rims are wider which increases width and height of tire. I have a Madone 5 and upgraded to new carbon wheels. I can still run 23mm Conti tires but 25mm are too close and rub when out of the saddle. In front I had about 1mm of clearance to the fork bridge. Trapped a rock and out a huge groove in the tire tread.
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Old 02-26-21, 07:57 AM
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Check out Fulcrum wheels.
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Old 02-26-21, 08:09 AM
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22 lbs is not light for a road bike. I understand that going to a 1x is to reduce the bike weight. I mean, who spends so much just to add a single cog and lose a chainring.

The first step is to take off your wheels and weigh them without tires, skewers and the cassette. I use a kitchen scale. You need to know how much you’ll save going to a lighter wheelset. I’m guessing a 1750gram rim brake wheelset will cost around $400, maybe more. It has been a while since I’ve looked at wheelsets so this is just a guess.

Going to a carbon single crank and dropping the FD will lower it more. I’m guessing you can easily get sub-20lb if your current wheelset is on the heavier side.

Go to Weight Weenies and get a feel for component weight. Then go look at the reviews for the components.

John

Edit added: I just re-read the OP and you are already running a 1x10. How can you possibly be at 22lbs?

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Old 02-26-21, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Iawestrr View Post
Greetings.


I have a 2002 Cannondale R700 road bike, and am looking to replace the original Mavic XP21 wheels. There are 2 main reasons for doing this. 1) - I hope to shed a bit of bike weight between the old and new wheels, whatever they end up being. 2) - I currently run a Sram 1x10 system. 10 is the most rings I can have on the old wheels. I want the new wheels to be able to accept either 11 or 12 rings, so that I can run either a 1x11 or a 1x12 system.


The bike currently weighs about 22 lbs (is 52cm), and I weigh about 160 lbs. I am the original owner, the bike has over 10,000 miles on it, and the paint job is the red-white-blue one that Cannondale did on this model after the 9-11-01 terrorist attacks. I have to stick with rim brakes, don't want to attempt to convert to disk brakes. I run 700x25 tires and have to stick with that size. There is barely enough clearance to get the wheel/tire off between the calipers as it is. I ride mostly paved trails or roads, rarely or never ride on gravel. Am prepared to spend some money here. What brand would you recommend I go with to give me value for the 2 points noted above???


Incidentally, the Mavic rims will be for sale when I make the change out this spring, if anyone is interested.


Thx in advance,

Mark VW
Something to watch out for here is, if youíre wanting to run 10spd now and road 12spd in the future, youíll either need a wheel with a SRAM XDR freehub and a compatible 10spd XD cassette (which I believe only eThirteen make) or youíll need a hub which offers a Shimano HG freehub and a SRAM XDR freehub replacement option. There is no Shimano 12spd road at this time, so who knows what will be needed to run that.

However, it gets really complicated if youíre talking 1x, because then you could be wanting a wide range MTB cassette, which adds a whole bunch of complexity to sorting out the freehub types. Shimano has been running 12spd MTB cassettes on their Microspline hub, but that wonít take your current cassette, so itís back to decisions, decisions: do you upgrade drivetrain and wheels at the same time? Do you look for a hub which offers freehubs for both HG and Microspline?

All the permutations are way above my tech level, so Iíll leave it to others to sort that out with you, but be aware the can of worms youíre opening! It may be way easier to commit to a particular format than to try to future-proof it or build in options.
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Old 02-26-21, 11:17 AM
  #10  
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I will say wheel weight can have a big effect on how a bike feels. A set of Alex wheels at 2600+ grams were anchors compared to low end Fulcrum Racing T’s at 1800 grams.

John
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Old 02-26-21, 11:25 AM
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If you managed to even loose 2 lbs by changing wheels... and you won't, that is still a heavy road bike by todays standards. At least by my standards if no one else.

If you were considering 1500 dollar or more wheels, then seriously consider another bike for a little more money.
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Old 02-26-21, 09:15 PM
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I don't know what wheels would work best for you because you don't really give a ton of info but I will give a huge +1 to hand built wheels. Find a good wheel builder and let them guide you. Me personally I would highly recommend White Industries hubs and Sapim spokes beyond that you have to figure out if you want aluminum or carbon and other features. You may not lose a ton of weight with new wheels but it can give you a better ride and cut down a little weight. Also good tires as wide as you can fit and as supple as you can ride.

Though honestly it sounds like you need another bike if you want really lightweight and you can still keep this bike for training or wet weather riding or when your other bike is down or something like that. It is never ever a bad thing to have multiple bikes now maybe at a certain point you might have too many but that is different for everyone and usually not a real number or a real number only because you have too for some reason.
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Old 02-27-21, 07:09 AM
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A friend recently went to 20mm internal and the 25mm tires that had good clearance on the older rims became marginal on the new ones. Talk of 1X usually means someone is thinking about off pavement or commuter duty. If that's the case, maybe look into a 650B conversion.
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Old 02-28-21, 05:58 AM
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In order to shed weight, you have to know what your current rims weigh. That's step #1. If you are willing to "spend some money" then an LBS might be a good place to start. A good shop will be able to help you sort things out. It's certainly worth stopping in and giving them a chance. Tires might be another place to save weight. Some stems, handlebars and seatposts are really heavy, so that's another place to consider dumping weight. Some of these BWW wheels might make a good choice if you are not going to use an LBS https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/Cl...heel-sets.html
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Old 02-28-21, 12:18 PM
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As chaadster says, you'll need to be able to change the freehub to move to 12-speed. I was thinking about that very thing last year and one option that looked appealing was wheels from Just Riding Along. I have a friend who uses them and has been very impressed.
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