Pre-load Frustration - Shimano 105 5700 Rear Hub
02-25-21, 09:19 AM
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Pre-load Frustration - Shimano 105 5700 Rear Hub
Hey Gang,
Bought a used bike and noticed some lateral play in the rear wheel. Did a typical rear hub service, but when I preload enough to eliminate the slop, there is a ton of drag! It feels almost as if it is binding on the rubber seal rings, but I don't see how. Checked the manual, and everything looks to be assembled correctly. Is there a trick I'm missing? More info: the wheel is a replacement, and the 10spd cassette was installed without the 10/11spd spacer necessary for this free-hub, so it has some poor mechanics in the past.
Bought a used bike and noticed some lateral play in the rear wheel. Did a typical rear hub service, but when I preload enough to eliminate the slop, there is a ton of drag! It feels almost as if it is binding on the rubber seal rings, but I don't see how. Checked the manual, and everything looks to be assembled correctly. Is there a trick I'm missing? More info: the wheel is a replacement, and the 10spd cassette was installed without the 10/11spd spacer necessary for this free-hub, so it has some poor mechanics in the past.
02-25-21, 09:53 AM
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Do both sides have all 9 bearings, Is the axle bent, Does it only drag in one direction which could mean a sticky freewheel body needing a good flush and fresh lube, is the seal on the freewheel body side pressed all the way in and not crooked. is the freewheel body mounting bolt on tight. Can't think of anything else at the moment.
02-25-21, 10:02 AM
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Can the rubber seal be removed to test if the drag is still there? Andy
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02-25-21, 10:22 AM
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Are your pictures from before the service? The grease looks OEM.
I agree with the above, but I wouldn't try to pull the rubber seal. You said that there was play in the wheel, but you don't mention how much or if the wheel was mounted or not, and what adjustments you made to 'eliminate the slop'. For hubs, I try to leave a trace of play in the bearings because clamping with the skewer appropriately (or axle nuts) will compress the bearings a little more and eliminate the play.
If you're confident that everything's back together the right way, I'll just add that rubber seals do introduce some drag, or else they're just not functioning. Think about RS cartridge bearings vs unshielded cup and cone BB bearings. The latter ones will spin the crank arms happily after a nudge, but you have to keep pushing the former (when new).
I agree with the above, but I wouldn't try to pull the rubber seal. You said that there was play in the wheel, but you don't mention how much or if the wheel was mounted or not, and what adjustments you made to 'eliminate the slop'. For hubs, I try to leave a trace of play in the bearings because clamping with the skewer appropriately (or axle nuts) will compress the bearings a little more and eliminate the play.
If you're confident that everything's back together the right way, I'll just add that rubber seals do introduce some drag, or else they're just not functioning. Think about RS cartridge bearings vs unshielded cup and cone BB bearings. The latter ones will spin the crank arms happily after a nudge, but you have to keep pushing the former (when new).
02-25-21, 10:23 AM
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If you use a heavy grease and pack the entire hub with it to excess, it can make your wheel feel like it's dragging till it's ridden long enough to move all the unnecessary grease out of the way.
If you adjust the bearings to perfection prior to clamping with the skewer, then they'll be too tight when on the bike. A little play is actually a good thing. I've never tried to eliminate every last bit of play.
If you adjust the bearings to perfection prior to clamping with the skewer, then they'll be too tight when on the bike. A little play is actually a good thing. I've never tried to eliminate every last bit of play.
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02-25-21, 11:38 AM
#6
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I adjust the bearings with a 7/16" nut on the drive axle and the QR installed and tightened. I adjust the bearings so that there is a small amount of drag (pre-load) on the bearings. When the QR is opened 1/2 way there should be a small amount of play in the bearings.
02-25-21, 12:01 PM
#7
Blamester
Have you it in the right way round?
Push the cone up against the bearings by hand and spin it. Is it free? Try the other side is it the same. Find where it is binding.
Push the cone up against the bearings by hand and spin it. Is it free? Try the other side is it the same. Find where it is binding.
02-25-21, 04:05 PM
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If you use a heavy grease and pack the entire hub with it to excess, it can make your wheel feel like it's dragging till it's ridden long enough to move all the unnecessary grease out of the way.
If you adjust the bearings to perfection prior to clamping with the skewer, then they'll be too tight when on the bike. A little play is actually a good thing. I've never tried to eliminate every last bit of play.
If you adjust the bearings to perfection prior to clamping with the skewer, then they'll be too tight when on the bike. A little play is actually a good thing. I've never tried to eliminate every last bit of play.
02-25-21, 06:23 PM
#9
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You do realize the bearings have to have a little "slop" BEFORE you tighten the QR?
The force you clamp down with can have an effect. Add possible Drop Out misalignment which will be exacerbated more the tighter you clamp.
I won't go into "does the axle compress or bend" argument, but "something" happens.
The force you clamp down with can have an effect. Add possible Drop Out misalignment which will be exacerbated more the tighter you clamp.
I won't go into "does the axle compress or bend" argument, but "something" happens.
