PaulRivers

"All Schwalbe spikes have an extremely hardwearing tungsten-carbide core"

PaulRivers

Studs don't help with snow anyways, they only help with ice, but the snow studs don't have the best reputation. They're kind of for "I will probably never run into ice but want a few studs in case that I do".

If you want the fastest rolling tire with an appreciable number of studs it's the Schwalbe Marathon Winter, if you want something almost as fast but cheaper it's the Nokian w106.

Of course my opinion is a bit biased as I live in Minnesota were a barely studded tire is not very usable at all, lol...

Pug

I want to echo PaulRivers' comment on the Schwalbe Marathon Winter. For a studded tire, it does roll fast. I went for my first ride yesterday on them fitted to my hybrid bike. I was cruising along at speeds comparable to a non-studded tire. Only discernible difference was the noise. I had them inflated to ~80psi. Best part was going through some black ice. I was instinctively expecting the rear to fishtail, but with these tires I easily maintained a straight line. Great tires.

danielgaz

I'm down in the Banana Belt of SE Minnesota, so what you use could work for me. What would you recommend for a combination of price and longevity for a MTB tire?

PaulRivers

I'm...confused as to how your question wasn't answered by the post you quoted?

danielgaz

Never mind. I found some Mount & Ground's by Nokian. Will pick them up and avoid the 45North, per all recommendations for carbide.

AdrianFly

Nokian Extreme 296's on my Cannondale Killer V here..from the start of winter until early spring when no more ice.

Rolling resistance.. yes. However, I'm one of those who has dumped it more than once on ice riding regular tires. One of those times it was like snapping your fingers. One second I was cruising along, next second I feel myself flinch then WHAM with my head slamming on the street wrecking my helmet. It happens THAT fast. My commute home is in the dark.. through some back parking lots.. dark sidestreets.. etc. so visibility is limited..even with my sufficient little light illuminating my way.

Bottom line is that I ride those Nokians from start to finish for my safety. I don't race.. I don't ride fast and get crazy or travel extremely far.

There is also a certain "cool" about riding studs. It's throughout the time you ride them and the result come summer once you finally take them off and ride your summer tires.

fietsbob

Ive got these https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...6&category=192

seems like I got them over 10 years ago, cold air funneled down the Gorge
overcomes the onshore systems occasionally, then the 160 studs are just about right.
black ice patches on otherwise dry pavement.

RideNoCO

Do you change the tires instead of wheel just to save money on the extra wheelset or for a different reason?
Me thinking: having another wheelset would be way easier but sometimes when I've swapped out a wheel, it takes a slight tuning to get the cassette "happy" with the new chain/derail.

Shimagnolo

268 studs! Dayum!
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4614

PaulRivers

Steel, not carbide studs, though. :-(

sknhgy 

I think you will like those.

Jim Steele

I find that Extreme 294s are ideal for riding the 'seasonal' roads in northern Michigan. Best way to describe the sound is pouring milk over a bowl of Rice Crispies while riding in a tank.

Gojohnnygo.

Yum

peterw_diy

45 North's studs use carbide tips embedded in aluminum bases. They look identical to the Nokian pointy-tip variety shown in this blog post. (I just bought a set of 45 North replacement studs for my Schwalbe Marathon Winters, which I like except for how many studs they shed.)

Bikepacker67

Yup, once you slap them on, it's best to leave them on.
My studded tires are now in their 6th winter, and have only thrown 3 studs.
It's really all about reducing torque. Change your riding habits accordingly.

Bikepacker67

But I'm beginning to realize I love that sound.
It's so reassuring.

Bikepacker67

In other words, useless after a season.

PaulRivers

Yeah, that's what I meant. :-)

Bike Gremlin

I bought Schwalbe Marathon Winters this autumn. They are fine on dry pavement. They are also good on ice and hard packed snow.

Loose, deep snow is where they lack. Better than regular marathon tyres, but I guess a tyre with even bigger thread would be better for deep snow.


For my riding conditions (riding on roads that are cleared, where cars and buses go), these are perfect. Studs are hard and don't wear too much on bare concrete/asphalt. They are also not too slow.

If I had to ride in deeper snow, I might consider getting fatter tyres, or using a bus, since my commute is 11 kilometres and it would take too long to ride it in deep snow.

I wouldn't ride without both studed tyres. Too much of an injury risk for too little of a saving moneywise. If you get the front, get the rear too. Besides, although the front wheel is more crucial for stability, the rear wheel is the driving one.


One more thing: climate changes where I live often. One week of snow, then one week of warmer weather. That's why I would hate having to change tyres, or even wheels. I got a cheap beater MTB bike to mount studded tyres on and ride in the winter. 6 sprockets in the rear, friction shifters - bomb proof. I keep my nice bikes for nicer weather. This gives me an option to look through my window and decide which tyres to use, in 1 second.

plodderslusk

Studs are OK on tarmac but beware of stone or concrete, especially sleek stone surfaces are dangerous with studs. There is almost no traction at all.

Hank244

Here in Omaha, we've had no snow (yet). I did heed the earlier advice about getting "less extreme" tires. I found the Nokian A10 tires for a cheap price. I'll put them on when the weather turns.

As stated by an earlier poster, my main concern is ice from melting (during the day). I ride after work (in the dark). While our roads should be mostly dry, there will always be patches of ice (from melting). Heck, even with no snow (to date), there are wet spots on the pavement. That is my concern.

The A10 tires only have 72 studs. I hope they work on the ice patches.

PaulRivers

Their reputation is that they work for ice ok as long as there's no snow. As soon as their's any snow, the tread blocks fill up with snow, they get caked with snow, and they aren't very good at all. Not to mention when there's snow on top of the ice.

The A10's are cheaper than the schwalbe marathon winters and the Nokian w106's, but their reputation on ice isn't as good.

DrkAngel

After experimenting with various models I've developed some guidelines for "optimal" multi-purpose studded tires. Ice - snow - bare roads.

Avoid ...

Steel studs - wore to the tread in one Winter - Innovas

Studs near center only - reduced traction when turning ... when you need better!

100% studded knobbies - poor on bare roads

Optimally ...

Tungsten carbide studs

33-50% studded knobbies - you want some rubber hitting the road!

Inner rows of studs barely touching on the straight (At full tire pressure)
Minimal drag
Provides solid bite with any lean-turn
You can lower pressure for more ice bite

Additional outer rows that touch on moderate turns.

My "homemade" studded tires - employs most of my suggestions
Not carbide studs, sheet metal screws - but easily replaceable!



I run a Klondike XT on the rear of my motored eZip.

DrkAngel

50% studded, might do better ... but doesn't look near so pretty!