Help Pulling Drive Side Crankset
#1
Zip tie Karen
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Help Pulling Drive Side Crankset
I'll need your collective wisdom on this. 1999 Trek 520, Shimano triple with stripped drive side crank threads. Maybe someone forced the steel dust caps, I don't know. I'm afraid to force thread the standard crank puller, because of the risk of cross threading and the weakened threads. The loose ball BB is a muddy, rusty mess. and I can't imagine simply re-packing it, especially since I can't get to the drive side.
So, what are my options? This is a friend's bike, and I want to salvage the crank. I'm thinking that a cartridge bearing is the best longer-term bet. But to install it, I need to get the drive side off.
There are automotive jaw pullers made for gears and flywheels. Do any of you have experience using one of these for cranksets? I'll have to buy the puller to help my friend. Maybe the harbor freight models? If you can guide me, I'd really appreciate it.
Phil
So, what are my options? This is a friend's bike, and I want to salvage the crank. I'm thinking that a cartridge bearing is the best longer-term bet. But to install it, I need to get the drive side off.
There are automotive jaw pullers made for gears and flywheels. Do any of you have experience using one of these for cranksets? I'll have to buy the puller to help my friend. Maybe the harbor freight models? If you can guide me, I'd really appreciate it.
Phil
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I think chuck wedges are the preferred method. I've also read that you can loosen the crank bolt and carefully ride around until the crank comes free. Never tried it.
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I've done it (carefully) with a pry bar. Put the bent end of the pry bar right by the spindle pushing against the cup/BB shell, with the bend angling towards the bike. Then lever against each arm of the spider, working your way around the circle until it comes free. Might scratch up the cup a bit.
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If the DS crankarm is stripped, why would you want to reinstall it. Someone else would then be presented with the same problem in the future. I guess you could try to re-thread the crank (or install a heli-coil - can that be done on Al alloy?) when the crankarm is off the bike. Good luck.
#5
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Get a cheap crank arm removal tool that can be sacrificed. Place bike on side and fill the crank arm mounting hole with something like WD40. Take the drive pin completely out of the removal tool. Get a 14" adjustable wrench and use brute force to insert removal tool body as far as it will go in crank arm hole. Then insert the drive pin and get that crank arm off. OK, Anyhow right. If all else fails you can always fire up the sawzall or a high speed grinder and just destroy the whole mess and start over.
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Chuck wedges will apply enormous force in a controlled manner. Shim up with washers cut in half and tap inward with two hammers.
https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Tool-Gro...SIN=B0006571JM
https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Tool-Gro...SIN=B0006571JM
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https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...ractor-system/
I have yet to use this tool but have a number of Stein tools and they are all very effective. If I still ran my shop I would have this in my tool chest. Perhaps a shop in the area has one and can do the job? Andy
I have yet to use this tool but have a number of Stein tools and they are all very effective. If I still ran my shop I would have this in my tool chest. Perhaps a shop in the area has one and can do the job? Andy
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https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...ractor-system/
I have yet to use this tool but have a number of Stein tools and they are all very effective. If I still ran my shop I would have this in my tool chest. Perhaps a shop in the area has one and can do the job? Andy
I have yet to use this tool but have a number of Stein tools and they are all very effective. If I still ran my shop I would have this in my tool chest. Perhaps a shop in the area has one and can do the job? Andy
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Zip tie Karen
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Karl, This is a good question. In brief, my friend really loves his bike (I'm now guessing an earlier 90s or late 80s, not 1999.) He was refused by a bike shop when his Uniglide cassette was severely worn. They said, "buy a new bike. you can't get parts for this anymore." He brought it to me (this was 7 years ago?) and I was able to pull the later gen Uniglide freehub (bolt on, not press fit) and replace it with Hyperglide. New chainrings and chain, and we got him rolling again.
He'll never pass this bike to anyone else, but will ride it as long as he can (he's in his mid 60s now). So, I'm figuring that a cartridge bottom bracket will be the way to go now. I may try to re-thread drive side crank as Andy suggested. I need to call around to the shops who know what they're doing and see if the tool exists here. Most larger chain-type bike stores don't really know much other than "remove and replace".
Thanks, Andy. This would be the best approach. Once I get this thing off. I'm thinking that the wedges are the way to go.
He'll never pass this bike to anyone else, but will ride it as long as he can (he's in his mid 60s now). So, I'm figuring that a cartridge bottom bracket will be the way to go now. I may try to re-thread drive side crank as Andy suggested. I need to call around to the shops who know what they're doing and see if the tool exists here. Most larger chain-type bike stores don't really know much other than "remove and replace".
https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...ractor-system/
I have yet to use this tool but have a number of Stein tools and they are all very effective. If I still ran my shop I would have this in my tool chest. Perhaps a shop in the area has one and can do the job? Andy
I have yet to use this tool but have a number of Stein tools and they are all very effective. If I still ran my shop I would have this in my tool chest. Perhaps a shop in the area has one and can do the job? Andy
#10
Zip tie Karen
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Thank you for the inputs so far. Has anyone tried one of these pullers on this type of problem? Maybe the smallest one?
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If you don’t want to buy a new tool, another option you have in this case is to remove the cup while the crank is still attached and take the whole mess off the bike. Once off the bike, the spindle can be punched out of the crank relatively easily.
But if you can get ahold of wedges or other proper tools, that’s of course the much better way to go.
But if you can get ahold of wedges or other proper tools, that’s of course the much better way to go.
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Karl, This is a good question. In brief, my friend really loves his bike (I'm now guessing an earlier 90s or late 80s, not 1999.) He was refused by a bike shop when his Uniglide cassette was severely worn. They said, "buy a new bike. you can't get parts for this anymore." He brought it to me (this was 7 years ago?) and I was able to pull the later gen Uniglide freehub (bolt on, not press fit) and replace it with Hyperglide. New chainrings and chain, and we got him rolling again.
He'll never pass this bike to anyone else, but will ride it as long as he can (he's in his mid 60s now). So, I'm figuring that a cartridge bottom bracket will be the way to go now. I may try to re-thread drive side crank as Andy suggested. I need to call around to the shops who know what they're doing and see if the tool exists here. Most larger chain-type bike stores don't really know much other than "remove and replace".
Thanks, Andy. This would be the best approach. Once I get this thing off. I'm thinking that the wedges are the way to go.
He'll never pass this bike to anyone else, but will ride it as long as he can (he's in his mid 60s now). So, I'm figuring that a cartridge bottom bracket will be the way to go now. I may try to re-thread drive side crank as Andy suggested. I need to call around to the shops who know what they're doing and see if the tool exists here. Most larger chain-type bike stores don't really know much other than "remove and replace".
Thanks, Andy. This would be the best approach. Once I get this thing off. I'm thinking that the wedges are the way to go.
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The gear pullers will not work. The chain rings are way too flimsy.
I use an automotive ball joint separator, what my shop mentor called a pickle fork. I have one in my auto tools anyway. It's a well-used tool at the bike coop where I volunteer. It'll put a couple of marks on the fixed cup, and in tough cases maybe on the shell, but it works. Use eye protection when banging on it, as always.
Using this tool will probably make you get a new crank, but that's sort of the idea.
I use an automotive ball joint separator, what my shop mentor called a pickle fork. I have one in my auto tools anyway. It's a well-used tool at the bike coop where I volunteer. It'll put a couple of marks on the fixed cup, and in tough cases maybe on the shell, but it works. Use eye protection when banging on it, as always.
Using this tool will probably make you get a new crank, but that's sort of the idea.
Last edited by andrewclaus; 08-13-19 at 06:24 AM.
#14
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Stripping the extrator threads was a common issue with square taper crank axles. No wonder someone invented a re-threading kit complete with oversize extractor and oversized dust caps.
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N.B. it's possible that rethreading the arm and purchasing the oversize extractor may cost close to what a new arm with intact threads would cost.
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Chuck wedges will apply enormous force in a controlled manner. Shim up with washers cut in half and tap inward with two hammers.
https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Tool-Group-13268-Jacobs/dp/B0006571JM?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0006571JM
https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Tool-Group-13268-Jacobs/dp/B0006571JM?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0006571JM
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Phil, I have gear pullers. I'd use chuck wedges - more control, easier to get into the space between the cup and the arm. The gear puller, even if you hook it onto the spider, is going to be hard to get into that space. Plus, most gear pullers have two or three arms. Your crank has 5. That's going to make it difficult to use a hub puller.
There's a cost issue here, too. The VAR kit costs about $130 plus shipping. A good hub puller is going to be from 60 to 200 bucks (cheaper ones can be found, but they are just that... cheaper).
There's a cost issue here, too. The VAR kit costs about $130 plus shipping. A good hub puller is going to be from 60 to 200 bucks (cheaper ones can be found, but they are just that... cheaper).
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 08-13-19 at 07:27 AM.
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For $10 the chuck wedges linked to above are definitely the way to go.
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So, to pile on, keep in mind that chuck wedges were designed to allow one to swap drill-press chucks. These chucks use tapered joints - like cranks (round tapers vs square, but tapered just the same).
So the wedges were specifically designed to break tapered joints.
BTW, make sure you get the right size of wedges, if you get chuck wedges. I'm guessing you want JT3 (Jacob's drill press Taper 3), for which the large size of the taper is 0.8110". But you may want the JT6 (which is smaller, go figure). Here's a chart for all of the four different wedge sizes:
JT1 0.3840"
JT2 0.5590
JT6 0.6760
JT3 0.8110
So the wedges were specifically designed to break tapered joints.
BTW, make sure you get the right size of wedges, if you get chuck wedges. I'm guessing you want JT3 (Jacob's drill press Taper 3), for which the large size of the taper is 0.8110". But you may want the JT6 (which is smaller, go figure). Here's a chart for all of the four different wedge sizes:
JT1 0.3840"
JT2 0.5590
JT6 0.6760
JT3 0.8110
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 08-13-19 at 08:11 AM.
#21
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Thanks, you guys. I'm going with wedges for now. I'll update once I have this thing fixed and working right again. Phil
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Why not at least try to get the puller screwed on. The threads are already partially damaged so you've got nothing to lose. Just make sure you've got the puller screwed all the way in and pour some hot water over the crank to aid in getting it off.
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Karl, This is a good question. In brief, my friend really loves his bike (I'm now guessing an earlier 90s or late 80s, not 1999.) He was refused by a bike shop when his Uniglide cassette was severely worn. They said, "buy a new bike. you can't get parts for this anymore." He brought it to me (this was 7 years ago?) and I was able to pull the later gen Uniglide freehub (bolt on, not press fit) and replace it with Hyperglide. New chainrings and chain, and we got him rolling again.
He'll never pass this bike to anyone else, but will ride it as long as he can (he's in his mid 60s now). So, I'm figuring that a cartridge bottom bracket will be the way to go now. I may try to re-thread drive side crank as Andy suggested. I need to call around to the shops who know what they're doing and see if the tool exists here. Most larger chain-type bike stores don't really know much other than "remove and replace".
Thanks, Andy. This would be the best approach. Once I get this thing off. I'm thinking that the wedges are the way to go.
He'll never pass this bike to anyone else, but will ride it as long as he can (he's in his mid 60s now). So, I'm figuring that a cartridge bottom bracket will be the way to go now. I may try to re-thread drive side crank as Andy suggested. I need to call around to the shops who know what they're doing and see if the tool exists here. Most larger chain-type bike stores don't really know much other than "remove and replace".
Thanks, Andy. This would be the best approach. Once I get this thing off. I'm thinking that the wedges are the way to go.
Good luck.
#24
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(I'm guilty of dremeling threads here as well).
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#25
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I held my breath and began driving the inner part of the tool against the spindle. Voila, the spindle moved and dropped out. Yay!
A Shimano cartridge bearing and new chain later and my friend's 520 is on the road again. Of note, the original(?) spindle was a shiny steel Shimano 70-122.5mm. The bottom bracket shell is a 68. Wouldn't this have placed the "shoulders" for the bearings 1mm wider than intended by Trek on each side? Thanks for the inputs, all. Phil