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Raleigh 531c Racing?

Old 08-05-17, 07:15 PM
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shoff535
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Raleigh 531c Racing?

Hi, I recently acquired a red Raleigh "USA" with 531c tubing and forks. The S/N is WP7001156, so based on my understanding this was an English made frameset (the stickers say made in England), made probably in November 1987.. so possibly an 1988 model?

Anyway, the current components are mostly Shimano Ultegra SIS brifters (8speed) with black Nitto handle bars and stem and all of these components seem to be a-ok. I also got a bag of what the owner thought were the oem components and they are Shimano SIS (downtube) 600ex.

I am thinking of taking the Ultegra components off and restoring back to what would have been typical for a bike like this in 1988 or so. My question is what are your thoughts as to a good group(o) to go with. Everything I use will likely have to be ebay or if I can get NOS from guys at my LBS. I definitly want to ditch the Nitto handle bar and stem, I will keep the American Classic seatpost.. other than that if this were 1988 would you find this bike with higher end components like dura ace or campy record? Also, any thoughts on the white wall Hutchinson Nito tires?
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Old 08-05-17, 09:07 PM
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I have an earlier version 1986 Raleigh USA that was sold as a frame set only and maybe your was as well. Made in England for Raleigh USA. I built mine up with Shimano Tri Color. You can put anything you want on it from that time period. Top Dura Ace or Campagnolo if you like. Suntour Superbe Pro would look sweet too! Nice frame. Looks good as is to me.
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Old 08-05-17, 09:26 PM
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Buying a bunch of stuff off eBay is expensive and maybe the stuff works right, maybe it does not. This bike looks very good. Why do you want to change anything?
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Old 08-05-17, 09:30 PM
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I could see a Cinelli or 3TTT stem, and bars that suit your preferred position. Don't think I'd even consider changing anything else.
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Old 08-05-17, 10:59 PM
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thanks for the comments so far.
Mostly I'm thinking of changing the components because I think I am in a "period-correct" mood or phase right now 8^)

the drivetrain and brakes really are fine.. so changing them is more ..whimsical?? though for no real reason I am not a fan of the 2 piece cranks where the crank and spindle are one piece... mostly because I'm a square taper spindle fan . the handle bars are a bit beat up.. maybe the PO had scott clip on aero bars mounted. I forgot about 3TTT, I think they would look good and fit in with the character of the Raleigh.
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Old 08-06-17, 01:34 AM
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I've got a bike with 531SL. (Super lightweight)

All I can say is - Enjoy!
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Old 08-06-17, 06:50 AM
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Shimano 600 Ultegra (aka Tricolour or 64xx series) would be period correct for 1988 but the earlier 7 speed version, with down tube shifters and single pivot brakes. The current crankset is even newer Utegra (65xx series). 600 Ultegra did find it's way onto a number of higher end bicycles and was standard offering by mail order houses and LBS for frame builds.

During this period Raleigh USA was not sponsoring any USA based teams. Their last sponsorship was the 1985 Levi's Raleigh team. Those bicycles used the same basic red and black livery and were equipped with Shimano Dura-Ace. Most of the team members were holdovers from 1984 and used the Marinoni built frames, often with mixed generations of Dura-Ace components, though New Dura-Ace (74xx series) with 6 speed SIS would have been current.

In England, during 1988 there was a domestic pro team co-sponsored by Banana. The team livery was yellow and black and the bicycles were equipped with new Dura-Ace (74xx series). I've read reports in other forums that Raleigh England issued a 531C frame in the team livery with a Shimano New 105 (105x series) group.

If this were my bicycle I would probably go with Shimano New Dura-Ace (74xx series), as it is period correct and representative of Levi's-Raleigh's when the team last rode this livery. Even though 8 speed and Hyperglide did not become commercially available until the 1989 model year, I would probably retain it for the convenience of not having to re-space the rear triangle. It's not an obvious concession like brifters or dual-pivot caipers would be and it could be argued that 8 speed Hyperglide was being field tested on the pro bicycles in 1988. So, if Raleigh USA had sponsored a domestic pro team in 1988, that is what would likely have used.

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Old 08-06-17, 07:20 AM
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That bike's a beauty as is, but will ride great with whatever you want to put on it, imo. Dura Ace would be killer.
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Old 08-06-17, 07:39 AM
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If your keeping the American Classic seatpost, then lose the Specialized bottle cage for some AC ones.

Nice frame there.
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Old 08-06-17, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by shoff535
Hi, I recently acquired a red Raleigh "USA" with 531c tubing and forks. The S/N is WP7001156, so based on my understanding this was an English made frameset (the stickers say made in England), made probably in November 1987.. so possibly an 1988 model?

Anyway, the current components are mostly Shimano Ultegra SIS brifters (8speed) with black Nitto handle bars and stem and all of these components seem to be a-ok. I also got a bag of what the owner thought were the oem components and they are Shimano SIS (downtube) 600ex.

I am thinking of taking the Ultegra components off and restoring back to what would have been typical for a bike like this in 1988 or so. My question is what are your thoughts as to a good group(o) to go with. Everything I use will likely have to be ebay or if I can get NOS from guys at my LBS. I definitly want to ditch the Nitto handle bar and stem, I will keep the American Classic seatpost.. other than that if this were 1988 would you find this bike with higher end components like dura ace or campy record? Also, any thoughts on the white wall Hutchinson Nito tires?
These were sold (as a frame only) in England at the time and it is a Raleigh Road Ace frameset with a different livery - the Road Ace was sold as a complete bicycle and was equipped with a Shimano 600EX groupset (first gen' SIS).

The frame number beginning with a W is an old Carlton Worksop prefix, used by Raleigh after the closure of Worksop to differentiate the better frames from the tat (W prefixed frames are from the Nottingham Lightweight Unit - not to be confused with the SBDU).

As the frame is 531 and not Pro or 753 and you're not (a Pro). I suggest the 600EX option, if you wish to be period correct, is the best one.

John.

Last edited by hobbs1951; 08-06-17 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 08-06-17, 07:06 PM
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Guys,
Thank you for all of the comments and information. Definitely leaning toward retrofitting back to the original 600 tri-color components and I definitely agree that the 600 is a tad more appropriate for the 531 whereas if this was the 753 the higher end Dura-Ace would tend to be a better fit.

But a couple of questions now, mostly related toward colour (or color) scheme. First question is which framesets were painted like mine, but had the black headtube, were those just the 753s?

But more importantly, suggestions or comments on saddle/handle bar tape & cable housing colors? I was actually thinking of doing yellow for those except the saddle I would go black and am leaning toward a sella concor light (I'm a skinny guy and I have one already on the Calfee). The PO had grey shimano cabling.

Thoughts, comments?

TIA
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Old 12-08-17, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by shoff535
Guys,
Thank you for all of the comments and information. Definitely leaning toward retrofitting back to the original 600 tri-color components and I definitely agree that the 600 is a tad more appropriate for the 531 whereas if this was the 753 the higher end Dura-Ace would tend to be a better fit.

But a couple of questions now, mostly related toward colour (or color) scheme. First question is which framesets were painted like mine, but had the black headtube, were those just the 753s?

But more importantly, suggestions or comments on saddle/handle bar tape & cable housing colors? I was actually thinking of doing yellow for those except the saddle I would go black and am leaning toward a sella concor light (I'm a skinny guy and I have one already on the Calfee). The PO had grey shimano cabling.

Thoughts, comments?

TIA
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread but I only saw it now nice bike! I have 2 Raleigh 531c bikes. I love the handling of them and there is a bit of nostalgia there for me too. They take me back to a time when life was simpler!

I have one stripped and going to send it to get resprayed. The other one I am still building up with the Tricolour groupset. One thing to note though is that the downtube shifters are a pain for me at the minute. I'm carrying a bit of extra weight mostly around the belly so I have brifters on instead. The Tricolour didn't come with brifters though. Think they are 105's. You shouldn't have that problem
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Old 12-08-17, 07:30 AM
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Hey, thanks for the comment! I ended up going in a different direction with this bike (and am still in progress). I decided to take it to Colorado to ride in the mountains. So, I'm keeping the oem uniglide 13x26 (7sp) cassette but am installing an M550 Deore 24-36-46 crankset with matching front and rear derailleurs. I figured because I'm older and have been living at low altitude for most of my adult life the oem 39x53 crankset would be a "non-starter" for me once I got to high altitude (7800'and up) and a 3+% grade (that goes on for miles).

Will post pics when finished.
Steve

Last edited by shoff535; 12-08-17 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 12-08-17, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by shoff535
...I decided to take it to Colorado to ride in the mountains. So, I'm keeping the oem uniglide 13x26 (7sp) cassette...
IMO, riding in the mountains is all the more reason to switch to Hyperglide cogs. They shift so much better under heavy loads, like low rpm climbing. You can always grind narrower the wide spline on the Hyperglide cogs and use them on the Uniglide freehub for every position, except the outer cog.
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Old 12-08-17, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by T-Mar
IMO, riding in the mountains is all the more reason to switch to Hyperglide cogs. They shift so much better under heavy loads, like low rpm climbing. You can always grind narrower the wide spline on the Hyperglide cogs and use them on the Uniglide freehub for every position, except the outer cog.
wow, this is really good advise.. both the comment on the shifting, but also on the mod to fit the HG on the UG freehub.
Thanks!
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Old 12-08-17, 10:49 AM
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I also have an '87 531C Race ("WDXXXX" Serial). Mine was ordered painted to resemble a SBDU Team Pro. I went the other way on it. I originally purchased it built-up with Campagnolo C and Super Record components. It also had Cinelli bars and stem. The previous owner wanted to build a Team Pro replica. It was beautiful, but it was my garage queen because the 80s race gearing was not suitable for my riding in the hills of San Francisco (I'm an old guy). So, a couple of years ago, since it is not a SBDU frame, I took it down to the frameset and rebuilt it with a modern Campy 10 speed drivetrain (compact 50/34 with 13-29). I can actually ride it in my rotation now. It's a great handling and riding frame.

Check out this page from a 1987 catalog:

RaleighFrames872 | Raleigh Lightweights Catalogue 1987 | Retrobike

Since these were sold as frames back in the day, you can use whatever period correct group you want on it.


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Old 12-08-17, 04:18 PM
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I always felt Raleigh race bikes goes together best with Brooks saddles (Pro?).....
To kinda put in as much British "flavor" on the bike as one can......
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Old 12-08-17, 06:27 PM
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Warren, that's a fantastic looking Raleigh!
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Old 12-08-17, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by shoff535
Warren, that's a fantastic looking Raleigh!
Thanks for the kind words.

It looks like your frame is almost identical to mine, except mine has the black head tube.
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Old 12-09-17, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Warren128
Thanks for the kind words.

It looks like your frame is almost identical to mine, except mine has the black head tube.

I noticed that also, and have seen that on some others also. Not sure what that means? perhaps a different year? Based on my S/N my frame is from late 1987 and therefore I "think" it was meant to be a 1988 model.

My only complaint, and it doesn't show in my pics is that the Raleigh decals (vs the tubing decals) all are peeling up on the edges. I may repaint in a year or so if I can get replacement decals and then I'll have the clear coat sprayed over the decals.
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