tomato coupe

Sorry, I read that as "other than a Mavic tubeless on a Mavic UST rim."

redlude97

Its 2.2w for the TLR without sealant compared to the GPTT with butyl tubes. BRR has shown what difference latex vs butyl makes and what sealant adds in terms of resistance as well. If they actually compared the TLR with sealant to the GPTT with latex I bet they would be close to the same
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...eless-clincher

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...beless-sealant

WhyFi

What I'm seeing says that there was 20mL of sealant in the Corsa Speed TLR -

chaadster

The Roadlite should be the more durable tire; it’s billed as their training and endurance tire, and is substantially heavier than the high grip RBCC.

redlude97

The article says you should use 30ml, the difference between 0-20ml is pretty negligible anyways. The difference between a butyl and latex tube however is significant and makes up the 2w difference. I don't have experience with road tubeless but I use somewhere around 50ml for 33mm cyclocross tires to get enough pooling. Isn't 1oz/30ml pretty standard for road tubeless?

WhyFi

That's about what I use, maybe a little more for the 30mm tires currently in place, but I don't know what the recommended is for other sealants.

Article says should be about 8.4 for the GP TT with the latex tubes. Not that I care about any of this - race-day-only tires aren't on the radar. The Vittorias are only 1.7mm thick - jeezuz.

Planemaker

I've been running road tubeless for 3 seasons now and I've had zero flats. I have broken the bead loose to check the sealant and inspect the tires and have found obvious punctures that sealed (I actually pulled a 4 inch piece of wire from the inside of the tire).

The only time I've ever had mounting a tire was when I replaced the rim tape with Stan's rim tape, which I believe is too thick and took up too much room in the rim bed (Orange Seal has rim tape that is very thin and works just fine). I've run Bontrager, IRC and Schwalbe on my American Classic Argent rims.

It takes me 10 to 15 minutes to remove both wheels, remove the tires, mount new tires, add sealant and seat the tire.

The only issue I had was this week when I decided to switch from Orange Seal to Stan's Race sealant. A previously sealed puncture started leaking during a ride but, eventually sealed at a lower psi and I was able to finish my ride. In my garage I added more Stan's and when I got the tire to 90 psi it began leaking again but, it eventually sealed. I fixed the issue by going back to Orange Seal which sealed the puncture while during the seating process and I haven't had a problem since.

I've had punctures on my gravel bike that required a boot. There is very little mess, I take the wheel off the bike, go to the side of the road, break the tire loose and pour out any sealant left in the tire. Once that is done, I boot the tire, remove the valve, insert the tube and air the tire up.

I respect the opinions of those who don't like/want to try tubeless but, as for me, I'm happy with tubeless.

FYI - One of the benefits, besides fewer flats, of tubeless is being able to ride at lower psi, I am not sure why anybody would ride tubeless at psi above 100 (not to start another debate but, I believe that lower psi has been proven to decrease rolling resistance)

My lesson learned is don't mess with what works (i.e. Stan's vs. Orange Seal)

San Pedro

I would like to try tubeless, since I have the wheels for it already, but when I purchased my new set of tires I couldn't justify the cost considering how few flats I get. Still, IRC tires prices aren't terrible here, but still much more than good clinchers.

furiousferret

I've been flatting about 2x a week, so I'm definitely interested in tubeless. Out here in the desert goatheads are a real issue, and anything with less puncture resistance than Gatorskins is susceptible. Problem is Gatorskins are slow af and that doesn't work for racing (and some training rides).

I'm in the market for another bike in 6-12 months and may go disc, so no buying wheelsets until then.

woodcraft

!!! Any theory on how it got in there?

Planemaker

The wire was from a radial tire and was still in the hole it created on enty, the Orange Seal sealed around it. I must have run over the wire while riding and it worked itself into the tire as I continued my ride. Since I didn't flat, I would have never noticed the wire in my tire.

kbarch

I went tubeless for the 40mm tires on the TCX because getting things back in order after a flat was such an ordeal. Because they are so huge, it's a piece of cake to get them off and put them back on again, but getting them straight was another matter. Then I realized: tires don't have to be tubeless to take advantage of sealant. You can put sealant in tubulars, too, which I've done so I'm a little less hesitant to ride random roads with them now. Hence the "meh" vote.

BigC_82

I was in process of building my new bike 2017 kinesis tripster a/t and went tubeless for type of riding it would see( many miles of gravel)

evan326

I've wanted to try tubeless for a while, I've already got ultegra wheels. I am still holding out hope that Conti will put out a tubeless road tire. I've seen too many mixed reviews about the schwalbes to try them.

chaadster

Conti tires are no big deal worth holding out for; there's just no magic fairy dust there. The GP4kS2 is good and generally, comparatively inexpensive, but there's a lot of good rubber out there. And, there are plenty of other tubeless tires besides Schwalbe-- which, btw, any model aside, are generally considered some of the finest tires available-- that you could try out.

evan326

You're probably right, I know that the duranos that came stock sucked and kinda scared me away from schwalbe. I've seen mixed reviews about the pro 1. I feel I'll eventually try.
You didn't get the packet of fairy dust with your contis????

woodcraft

Wow. Hard to imagine riding with several inches of wire sticking out of the tire for some time

while it worked it's way in.

Did you take a pic of it?

chaadster

I may have gotten the fairy, but I probably snorted it mid-ride to revive myself rather than sprinkle it on the tires!

I've used both the One and the Pro One tubeless, and while I had my own cut episode with a brand new P1, I still use them and I still think they're superfine performers; feel great, roll fast, grip amazingly. It all depends on your needs, though, but there are lots of good quality tubeless tires out there, probably at least a couple of which should fit your needs, unless your needs including spending the same $40/tire which it costs to roll GP4kS2; performance tubeless tires start at $50 and are mostly pricier, with few sales. I suppose if you factor in the cost of a tube-- call it $10 from LBS-- and the cost of sealant at $4/2oz btl, the gap closes a bit.

Sy Reene

I may pick up a set of the Argent TLRs.. what's your long term impression of these and which tires have you found work best with these? Initially may just run them with tubes, but can't hurt to have an idea.

Do any of the 15% drop guidelines cease to be applicable when considering tubeless? 80psi sounds correct for an approx. 140lb rider, while a 180lb rider would be more appropriately served by about 105psi.

chaadster

I still love the Argent wheels, which I started running in '12, and lament that AC is out of business for several months now, so finding a set of Argents will be a challenge, but to your question, I've good luck with both Schwalbe Pro One and Hutchinson Fusion 5 Galactik 11Storm.

But yeah, the Argent was so far ahead of the curve, tech-wise, it's crazy to consider. How many wheels lead the market for anything like 8 years? Only AC Argent, I think. I mean, 2:1 lacing, sub 1400gm, 30mm height, 19.4mm inners, wide stance bearings...aluminum! Do I need to tell you what the **** you can do with an aluminum tube? (Dave Chappelle reference there!). Nope, nobody put as much together in a wheel as Bill Shook did those. Love 'em.

DrIsotope

Pretty much. I run 90psi for my rear 700x25, and I weigh around 210lbs. Giant Gavia AC1.

Chad h

noodle soup

I probably wouldn't go with those, unless they are practically free.

https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/ne...ts-down-51520/

deepakvrao

Struggled with tubeless when I started with them, but the benefits of never having a ride interrupted are worth it. Innumerable times, small flats would not even be noticed till later, and I could get away by filling and spinning the wheel. I found big punctures would sometimes not hold pressures above 50 or so, but the ride could still be finished. So, I would come home and remove the tyre to patch it. That's when the hassle of re seating came about. So, just started using Dynaplugs, and they seem to be the solution.

Finally, my take away

My holy grail for road tubeless [after 3 years on them].

1. After installing and seating a new tyre, which is never difficult, try never to ever have to take it off.
2. How? Dynaplug - as soon as you get a flat
3. If you have to take it off
4. Remove one layer rim tape and replace. Fresh tape helps seating the tyre better. Sometimes you can get away without this with application of plenty of soap
5. As far as possible do not ADD another layer of tape, as it raises the level where the tyre seats while fitting the tyre, leading to the broken levers, injured hands and swear words
6. Plenty of soap while re seating a tyre
7. Fill air with core out
8. Insert core without letting out much air so tyre does not de seat
9. Let tyre stand for a day
10. THEN remove core and fill sealant
11. NOW, use Dynaplugs so you don't have to do this crap again

BTW, last but not the least, get an electric compressor with a reservoir tank.

NEVER going back to tubes.

deepakvrao

Orange seal regular or the endurance? Which do you recommend