Lubricate new chain?
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I just put a brand new DA chain on and I will try this next time for sure. That goo attracts so much dirt I spent more time than I should clean the drivetrain after two rides.
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#27
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I liked the factory grease on my chain. it was smooth and quiet.
i just cleaned my chain yesterday and applied squirt dry. haven't gone for a ride yet, but I hope it'll be smooth, quiet, and somewhat clean.
i just cleaned my chain yesterday and applied squirt dry. haven't gone for a ride yet, but I hope it'll be smooth, quiet, and somewhat clean.
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Here's an interview with a Shimano guy. He explains it pretty well. https://bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/cha...-with-shimano/
Well, that friction is reduced if there is lube on the chain. If there is dirt mixed in, the lube makes a bigger difference in reducing friction. If there is water mixed in, the lube helps displace the water. The grease that comes on a Shimano chain is applied at the factory to the individual pieces before the chain is assembled. The grease does a better job of reducing friction than aftermarket chain lubes and it lasts longer. The main reason we use liquid chain lube, whether it is one that stays liquid or a dry lube that has a solid lubricant in a liquid carrier (like a PTFE lube) is because we need to get the lube on a part that is not accessible without disassembling the chain. So the best thing to do when installing a new chain is to leave the factory grease on, not apply any other lube, ride until it wears out and then start applying liquid chain lube. In dusty conditions you can wipe off the outside of the new chain with a rag that is wet with a gentle degreaser to keep dirt from sticking to the grease. The factory grease also keeps the chain nice and quiet. After soaking a chain in degreaser and then lubing the chain with liquid lubricant the chain gets noticeably louder.
Shimano does not have an official recommended chain lube. They all seem to work pretty good. Different people have different preferences and different conditions require different lubes
Shimano does not have an official recommended chain lube. They all seem to work pretty good. Different people have different preferences and different conditions require different lubes
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Taken from the article....
"Shimano does not have an official recommended chain lube. They all seem to work pretty good. Different people have different preferences and different conditions require different lubes."
Quite obvious by that statement that they've never actually done any serious testing of aftermarket lubricants. They all do not work "good" and friction facts proved that awhile ago.
The last sentence is also problematic...
They're saying that lubricant type is dependent on environment and riding style, yet some how their factory grease is supposed to be the best no matter what?
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Ross- I'm sorry, you seem to have misunderstood my point. You have a theory that the factory lube should be immediately removed. Shimano (and KMC IIRC) advise leaving it until the chain needs to be re-lubed. Now when made aware of their position you doubled down on your opposing view. You seem confident enough in your credentials and research to say on a public forum that Shimano is wrong. Most of us don't have your depth of knowledge or testing resources. For the sake of the cycling community, share your info with Shimano. Don't forget your friends if they give you a bunch of free chains in appreciation.
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"Shimano does not have an official recommended chain lube. They all seem to work pretty good. Different people have different preferences and different conditions require different lubes."
Quite obvious by that statement that they've never actually done any serious testing of aftermarket lubricants. They all do not work "good" and friction facts proved that awhile ago.
Quite obvious by that statement that they've never actually done any serious testing of aftermarket lubricants. They all do not work "good" and friction facts proved that awhile ago.
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Moving on though, this is the test you should be looking at, and it proves unequivocally that there IS, in fact, a big difference between lubricants.
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There's way too much concern about cleaning a chain.. It's obviously quite easy and really doesn't deserve our time even thinking about it:
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I don’t usually think about it. In the grand scheme of the chain’s life, you’re going to be cleaning and re-lubing. What you do right out of the package probably doesn’t matter much one way or the other.
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#42
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There's way too much concern about cleaning a chain.. It's obviously quite easy and really doesn't deserve our time even thinking about it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM4c7MwEmMs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM4c7MwEmMs
You can achieve the same thing in one go with a pickle jar and some white gas. And it dries in minutes too.
Last edited by Racing Dan; 06-05-20 at 01:27 AM.
#43
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That is efficiency in watts, and it doesn't take contamination into account. And there's still a clear "best" for that matter.
Moving on though, this is the test you should be looking at, and it proves unequivocally that there IS, in fact, a big difference between lubricants.
Moving on though, this is the test you should be looking at, and it proves unequivocally that there IS, in fact, a big difference between lubricants.
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"Factory grease is meant for packing, it IS NOT a good lubricant. Never ever put a new chain on and then race / do a big event. You are adding a stack of extra friction.Some factory grease is up to 5w higher friction vs just a decent drip lube. It is also horrendous for grabbing and holding contamination. So no matter if waxing or using a good drip lube, clean off factory grease –it is meant for packing and if stock may sit on a or warehouse for a decade or so –it is not for riding"
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Not bothering to read everything but here's a link where a Shimano engineer says to leave the sticky stuff on:
https://bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/cha...-with-shimano/
https://bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/cha...-with-shimano/
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Keep the chain tight!
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Not bothering to read everything but here's a link where a Shimano engineer says to leave the sticky stuff on:
https://bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/cha...-with-shimano/
https://bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/cha...-with-shimano/
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So, I installed the new DA chain and Ultegra cassette. Left on the factory lubricant on the chain. How many miles before I need to clean and relube?
Also, is there a cheaper, high quality substitute for quickinks? Shimano's brand costs $10 for a package of two.
Also, is there a cheaper, high quality substitute for quickinks? Shimano's brand costs $10 for a package of two.
#49
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That video up there has the guy take the chain off the bike to immerse it to clean it. How often do you guys do something like that?
When lubing, do you always degrease/clean before? Or do you degrease/clean less often and just put more lube on more often? He mentions like every 100 miles topping off the lube. I assume you don't clean it every time?
If you do the immersion thing, is drip lubing on the bike sufficient? Or do you immerse it in lube?
Or do most people just clean it on the bike and call it a day?
When lubing, do you always degrease/clean before? Or do you degrease/clean less often and just put more lube on more often? He mentions like every 100 miles topping off the lube. I assume you don't clean it every time?
If you do the immersion thing, is drip lubing on the bike sufficient? Or do you immerse it in lube?
Or do most people just clean it on the bike and call it a day?
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These days chains come with a quick link, & most folks use it for the life of the chain, and even after that it's probably OK
to put in the bag for emergency use, so little need to buy more.