Handlebar help!
07-20-20, 04:44 PM
#1
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Handlebar help!
Hi all, fairly new to the cycling world. I have a 2020 Giant Escape 3 that I love, except for the height of the handlebars. I feel like I’m reaching too far when riding, and often causes back pain and discomfort. I’ve considered a number of things - possibly a stem extender, but I’ve read that they can be dangerous. Another thought I’ve had is getting a different stem, maybe one longer ? I wouldn’t want to extend the cables and stuff. Hoping for an easy solution. Maybe if I got new grips with bar ends that would make my ride more comfortable, being that my hands could rest somewhere higher than the handlebars and give my back a bit of a break. Any thoughts on what I could look into or advice? Thank you in advance.
07-20-20, 04:47 PM
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You feel like you’re reaching too far and thus are considering a longer stem?
I recommend a professional bike fit.
I recommend a professional bike fit.
Last edited by indyfabz; 07-20-20 at 04:51 PM.
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07-20-20, 04:56 PM
#3
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07-20-20, 05:02 PM
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Have you had this bike for very long? Have you ridden bikes often in the last few years, or is this your first bike in a long time?
I'm guessing that you might simply need a stem with a higher angle, which would raise the bars and bring them back to you a bit. Or a handlebar with a higher rise. Or both a higher angle stem and a higher rise handlebar.
This is one of those situations where I like easy to adjust old school quill stems better than the clamp on threadless steerer stems.
I'm guessing that you might simply need a stem with a higher angle, which would raise the bars and bring them back to you a bit. Or a handlebar with a higher rise. Or both a higher angle stem and a higher rise handlebar.
This is one of those situations where I like easy to adjust old school quill stems better than the clamp on threadless steerer stems.
07-20-20, 05:07 PM
#5
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At least go back to the dealer, where they should have an assortment of different length & angle, compatible stems..
Basic scheme: bike on the trainer stand ,
remove that stem, put on a different one, ride the bike on the trainer a while, then ask ; is that better?
Basic scheme: bike on the trainer stand ,
remove that stem, put on a different one, ride the bike on the trainer a while, then ask ; is that better?
07-20-20, 05:08 PM
#6
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Have you had this bike for very long? Have you ridden bikes often in the last few years, or is this your first bike in a long time?
I'm guessing that you might simply need a stem with a higher angle, which would raise the bars and bring them back to you a bit. Or a handlebar with a higher rise. Or both a higher angle stem and a higher rise handlebar.
This is one of those situations where I like easy to adjust old school quill stems better than the clamp on threadless steerer stems.
I'm guessing that you might simply need a stem with a higher angle, which would raise the bars and bring them back to you a bit. Or a handlebar with a higher rise. Or both a higher angle stem and a higher rise handlebar.
This is one of those situations where I like easy to adjust old school quill stems better than the clamp on threadless steerer stems.
07-20-20, 05:19 PM
#7
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So, do you feel like you want your hands closer and higher to you?
07-20-20, 05:27 PM
#8
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Yes. I think I would like a more upright position. I don’t worry too much about aerodynamics, I casually ride and usually keep a pace of 16-18mph. I go on fairly long rides, usually anywhere from 10-25 mile rides. My neck and back start hurting only about 5 miles in. Could it possibly be in the positioning of my buttocks on my saddle, or my posture?
07-20-20, 05:30 PM
#9
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Yes. I think I would like a more upright position. I don’t worry too much about aerodynamics, I casually ride and usually keep a pace of 16-18mph. I go on fairly long rides, usually anywhere from 10-25 mile rides. My neck and back start hurting only about 5 miles in. Could it possibly be in the positioning of my buttocks on my saddle, or my posture?
07-20-20, 05:40 PM
#10
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I think what you need is a 25-35 degree stem about 70mm long or maybe a riser bars with a little bit more raise to it.
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07-20-20, 05:40 PM
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Is this your bike? https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/escape-3
The specs say that bike has a 15-degree, 31.8 stem.
It might be worth your time to find a good adjustable stem to see what bar position suits you. In this link are some photos that show you the versatility of an adjustable stem. I can't recommend that brand, you'll have to search around yourself unless someone else comes across with a recommendation.
The specs say that bike has a 15-degree, 31.8 stem.
It might be worth your time to find a good adjustable stem to see what bar position suits you. In this link are some photos that show you the versatility of an adjustable stem. I can't recommend that brand, you'll have to search around yourself unless someone else comes across with a recommendation.
Last edited by FiftySix; 07-20-20 at 05:45 PM. Reason: typ-o
07-20-20, 06:56 PM
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07-20-20, 08:54 PM
#13
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A good bike fitter will evaluate you, your flexibility, and any issues you are currently having.
They will then determine how to best configure the bike to you.
Lastly, fit can change over the miles, meaning you'll might need a tune-up once in a while.
As a 56 year old fat guy, I felt really silly and highly apprehensive going for my first ever bike fit. WOW, money very well spent.
During assembly my left leg was attached wonky. I didn't know and the warranty long since expired. A simple twist of the cleat fixed my knee pain.
Barry
They will then determine how to best configure the bike to you.
Lastly, fit can change over the miles, meaning you'll might need a tune-up once in a while.
As a 56 year old fat guy, I felt really silly and highly apprehensive going for my first ever bike fit. WOW, money very well spent.
During assembly my left leg was attached wonky. I didn't know and the warranty long since expired. A simple twist of the cleat fixed my knee pain.
Barry
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07-20-20, 11:14 PM
#15
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Like others said, would recommend a professional bike fit. Go back to the bike shop where you purchased the bike from and ask if they do bike fits. If you didn’t buy it at a local bike shop, call your nearest one and ask for the same, or if they recommend any. Most, if not all, Major USA cities will have a variety of fitters to choose from.
07-21-20, 07:43 AM
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Yeah, considering what bike fittings go for here and if I was 22 years old and had a new bike with a retail price of $420.00, I'd probably do everything I could to set up the bike myself.
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07-21-20, 08:25 AM
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I view that slightly different...
The price of the bike does not really matter.
The financial balance comes with the amount of hours/miles you wish to spend on that bike.
A fit is a lot of leisure/hobby dollars to spend if you ride a Just few times/miles a month.
I ride a lot and have already spent 45% the price of my used 2011 road bike on two fits this year.
I viewed a fit as an Highly expensive luxury I really didn’t need. I was wrong.
Those fits have allowed me to continue riding, else my knee issue would have stopped me within weeks.
Maybe a fit is not an option for the OP, but some onsite help might be. Either a store, a fellow cyclist, an iPhone app, some pointer in the right direction.
I think as enthusiasts we immediately go to the “get a fit” option.
Barry
The price of the bike does not really matter.
The financial balance comes with the amount of hours/miles you wish to spend on that bike.
A fit is a lot of leisure/hobby dollars to spend if you ride a Just few times/miles a month.
I ride a lot and have already spent 45% the price of my used 2011 road bike on two fits this year.
I viewed a fit as an Highly expensive luxury I really didn’t need. I was wrong.
Those fits have allowed me to continue riding, else my knee issue would have stopped me within weeks.
Maybe a fit is not an option for the OP, but some onsite help might be. Either a store, a fellow cyclist, an iPhone app, some pointer in the right direction.
I think as enthusiasts we immediately go to the “get a fit” option.
Barry
07-21-20, 08:43 AM
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Adjust your saddle and try moving it forwards if you haven't already, this is the simplest solution to move into more upright position (albeit, only a little bit more upright).
One thing that can bring you to more upright position (by a large degree) is the beach cruiser handlebar.
A higher stem that is rotated backwards (facing you) is another solution (but let's hear about the experts here concerning safety) that can make more upright by a large degree. However, this solution can look weird and may attract attention from other cyclists.
A non mechanical but very simple solution is to strengthen your core muscles (use your core muscles instead to support your upper body weight instead of using your hands)
And finally, neck and back pain is very likely caused by wrong bike fit (for example, your saddle might be tilted nose down too much). If you can afford professional bike fitting, then go for it....BUT, if you like to do your bike fitting yourself, you can also do it browsing through youtube videos concerning bike fit like this example:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCr4...L1xJb4A/videos
One thing that can bring you to more upright position (by a large degree) is the beach cruiser handlebar.
A higher stem that is rotated backwards (facing you) is another solution (but let's hear about the experts here concerning safety) that can make more upright by a large degree. However, this solution can look weird and may attract attention from other cyclists.
A non mechanical but very simple solution is to strengthen your core muscles (use your core muscles instead to support your upper body weight instead of using your hands)
And finally, neck and back pain is very likely caused by wrong bike fit (for example, your saddle might be tilted nose down too much). If you can afford professional bike fitting, then go for it....BUT, if you like to do your bike fitting yourself, you can also do it browsing through youtube videos concerning bike fit like this example:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCr4...L1xJb4A/videos
His videos will instruct you to start by making sure your foot is in the right position on the pedal, then adjust saddle height, fore-aft and tilt to get the hips and legs in the right position relative to pedals and bottom bracket and only then tackle remaining issues of reach and bar height.
I would also agree that a swept back bar may be a good option, but that will require all new housings and cables and possibly a longer stem depending on how far back the bars reach.
Otto
Last edited by ofajen; 07-21-20 at 08:48 AM.
07-21-20, 09:21 AM
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All you need is a bar with about 30+ degree sweep and 2" rise. What you have is what I call a broom handle. ZERO flexibility for hands or posture.
Forget the fit. One girl blogger got 4 fits to see what happens. They were ALL different. LOL
My custom has a 610 mm TT and old style chrome bars with 70d sweep and 2 1/2 rise. ZERO back pains. Yesterday I rode my 78 lb tour bike 107 miles with my SA RD5w. Only thing sore was my bum. LOL
Forget the fit. One girl blogger got 4 fits to see what happens. They were ALL different. LOL
My custom has a 610 mm TT and old style chrome bars with 70d sweep and 2 1/2 rise. ZERO back pains. Yesterday I rode my 78 lb tour bike 107 miles with my SA RD5w. Only thing sore was my bum. LOL
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 07-21-20 at 09:38 AM.
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07-21-20, 10:37 AM
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All you need is a bar with about 30+ degree sweep and 2" rise. What you have is what I call a broom handle. ZERO flexibility for hands or posture.
Forget the fit. One girl blogger got 4 fits to see what happens. They were ALL different. LOL
My custom has a 610 mm TT and old style chrome bars with 70d sweep and 2 1/2 rise. ZERO back pains. Yesterday I rode my 78 lb tour bike 107 miles with my SA RD5w. Only thing sore was my bum. LOL
Forget the fit. One girl blogger got 4 fits to see what happens. They were ALL different. LOL
My custom has a 610 mm TT and old style chrome bars with 70d sweep and 2 1/2 rise. ZERO back pains. Yesterday I rode my 78 lb tour bike 107 miles with my SA RD5w. Only thing sore was my bum. LOL
And you can do a fair job on saddle adjustment for this type of riding position just by the numbers: saddle tilt exactly level, keep the saddle all the way back in the seatpost and saddle height (center of bottom bracket to top of saddle measured up the seat tube) at 0.883 times PBH (pubic bone height).
Otto
07-21-20, 10:23 PM
#21
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Here's a pic of an escape with perhaps 100 or 150mm riser bars. Note the cables are getting pretty stretched.
07-22-20, 07:56 AM
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"A fool learns by experience. A wise man learns by other people's experience."
I'm a fool because I always try to figure things like this out for myself. If you're working from home, unless you figure out what you think you need, order it on line, wait for the parts to come in, see if it will fit and finally see if it will work. If it doesn't, you get to go through that loop again. Sometimes the result winds up looking goofy too. In my case, I could usually make that work because I always had a big box of spare bike parts that I could pick from.
On the other hand, if you take it back to the shop where you bought the bike, they may have a stock of stems in various lengths and angles for you to try. If they like you, you may even be able to talk them into giving you a cut rate deal.
I'm a fool because I always try to figure things like this out for myself. If you're working from home, unless you figure out what you think you need, order it on line, wait for the parts to come in, see if it will fit and finally see if it will work. If it doesn't, you get to go through that loop again. Sometimes the result winds up looking goofy too. In my case, I could usually make that work because I always had a big box of spare bike parts that I could pick from.
On the other hand, if you take it back to the shop where you bought the bike, they may have a stock of stems in various lengths and angles for you to try. If they like you, you may even be able to talk them into giving you a cut rate deal.
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07-22-20, 08:29 AM
#24
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Hopefully, @ciri doesn't need a handlebar that tall. 
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