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Extremely stuck pedal

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Old 05-28-20, 08:47 AM
  #51  
Amt0571
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
The general rule is that, for like metals (steel pedal axle in a steel crank arm), one diameter of thread engagement gives you most of the strength you need. Put another way, any more than one diameter engagement doesn't add much strength.
Nice to know that. I'm not sure if it has enough thread to reach one diameter, and the cranks are aluminium, not steel. I'll have to wait until 9 PM to see it in person, as the mechanic lives near me and will bring me the cranks. He didn't want me to pay anything, so I'm wondering if they're worse than it seems

(I'm going to pay him anyway, of course)
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Old 05-28-20, 02:58 PM
  #52  
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Finally mounted the new pedals. The threads were way better than they appeared on the picture. Almost intact in fact. While screwing the pedal it didn't feel as smooth as the other crank, but it works and holds the pedal completely safely.

Thanks to everybody who tried to help me.

Now the bike is ready for my uncle, its new owner, who wanted flat pedals.

A bit sad to see the bike go after sharing 10 years, 30000km and lots of adventures with it.

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Old 05-28-20, 11:57 PM
  #53  
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Just playing pedal nanny here but did you put some grease or anti-seize on the new pedal threads so this doesn't happen again?
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Old 05-29-20, 03:44 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
Just playing pedal nanny here but did you put some grease or anti-seize on the new pedal threads so this doesn't happen again?
Of course. In fact, the first time I removed pedals on those cranks I had a similar issue with the DS pedal (although I was able to remove it without breaking the vise), so when I reattached the new pedals I put LOADS of grease on them. It seems it didn't work though.
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Old 06-01-20, 12:07 PM
  #55  
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I admire your tenacity! XD

since you’re tossing the pedal anyway, you have a few options.

1st, if you have a drill press at your disposal or can improvise one, you can drill out the axle body, leaving only the threads behind. Then just pull out the threads with a pair of needle-nose pliers and you’re all set. I don’t recommend doing this freehand though as you can deviate the drill bit’s path and damage the threads in the crank arm.

2nd, you could use a tap and die to attempt to gain purchase on the inside of the axle, but it sounds like this might not be a great option since you’ve had such difficulty up until this point.

3rd and most likely to work: get a bucket or other fluid-retaining device and bathe the arm and axle in light oil (3 in 1 or WD-40 for example) overnight. Make sure the threads of the pedal axle are covered and try to not oil the rest of it. That’s inconvenient and messy. Next day, use a vise-grip or channel-lock style pliers with a long handle (so you have a bunch of leverage) and attempt to unscrew it. You can use this method on stuff you intend to keep too, just use a rag in the jaws of the pliers so you don’t damage what you’re removing. Of course, you don’t have to consider that on your current project since it’s gone and pissed you off and you’re going to toss it when you get it out. Haha.

cheers and good luck mate!
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Old 06-01-20, 12:43 PM
  #56  
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take the parts to a machine shop & if need be they can drill out the pedal without damaging the threads...
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Old 06-01-20, 02:58 PM
  #57  
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stuck pedal

I liberally use anti seize on pedals and any bike part where 2 different metals meet. Also on bottom bracket. A jar lasts forever and end of problem.
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Old 06-01-20, 11:03 PM
  #58  
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Spray pedal Allen bolt only with freezing spray in a can. It will cause bolt to shrink away from pedal.
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