redlude97

Then switch to chain-L. I'm a long time prolink user and get ~200 miles of mixed dry/wet riding before the chain starts to get noisy and dirty requiring a prolink application. I recently switched to Chain-L and it requires almost no maintenence after the first 1-2 rides. Just a quick dry wipedown after each ride. I'm at ~300miles on the original Chain-L application and it still sounds as quite as the first day.

Will G

Another vote for this. The thought of cleaning the lube out of the rollers and plates just to try and replace the lube between the rollers and plates has never made sense to me. With a 10 speed chain, I'm getting 3500-4000 miles and that is replacing it with almost 75% wear, according to the Park Chain Checker.

Nachoman

I've got a reusable link and I can't even remember the last time I used it.
Wipe. Lube. Wipe. is so much easier.

Jed19

Seriously guys, I have my chaincleaning down now to five minutes or less. I use the Sheldon Brown method.

Take KMC Missing Links off;

Drop chain and links in an airtight Pepsi bottle with a little Odorless Mineral Spirits;

Agitate;

Remove chain and let OMS evaporate;

Install chain and lube.

FIVE FRIGGING MINUTES!

Durockrolly

Take care of your machine and it will take care of you.
Neglect it and it WILL leave you stranded.

jch3n

got this from someone on bf a while ago: https://video.bicycling.com/video/Bik...BMC-Mechanic-a

finish line citrus degreaser and simple green on chain, chainring, and cassette. dish soap everywhere else. it works. i even did it indoors, very carefully, with a bucket of water since my apartment doesn't have an outdoor hose i can use.

Paul Barnard

I can't get my SRAM quick link to open back up. Is there a secret to it?

milkbaby

You need to buy a black colored chain to drive your buddy completely bonkers!

RT

Agreed, but I'm a little OCD as I have to wipe the chainrings and clean the cassette too. My life is not so damn busy that I don't have an hour a month to dedicate to this chore.

GiantDefyGuy

I'm a wipe-n-luber too, but sometimes you just need to give the chain a really good cleaning. I did mine this weekend because it was all caked up with ugly-weather goop, and it had started making an ugly noise. I ended up just removing the chain and shaking it in a bottle with more lube (didn't have degreaser) and wiped until it was good enough. (I have an 8-speed chain, so I can re-use my master link as many times as I want!!!!!)

I do have one of those cleaner things (cheap one), but I really never expected it to get the chain sparkly without help. I only use it to break all that stuff down so I can wipe it off. I don't use degreaser on my chain very often though, if at all.

Shimagnolo

If it is the black 10s link, then you need this: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=8480

RT

I can see the issues with total drivetrain scouring with 10 and 11 speed. This is why I am going back to 9 speed. I don't enjoy a real benefit from the extra gears, parts are cheaper, and maintenance is easier.

McTufferton

I really hope you're being sarcastic. That's like being upset after seeing a picture of fast food. Do you really expect this after opening the box:

McTufferton

Park Tool Sram Master Link Pliers. Part # MLP-1C.

on the path

Lol, but seriously I think that's part of the problem. My chain is more of a gun metal color. Even when totally clean it doesn't look clean..

on the path

So many ways to answer this, but I'll just leave it...

Will G

Curved jaw channel lock pliers work great. Jaws apply pressure at opposing corners and opens the link right up.

AndyK 

Coolest video! Doesn't beat the begining of "Sunday in Hell", but it's up there! How does all that spray water NOT de-grease the BB or get into the headset bearings??

Bob Ross

Perhaps I should clarify: I'm disappointed with how much crud is still left between the plates of each link after it's been through this gizmo a couple times. I don't need to run the chain through a scrubbing machine to clean the sides of the plates, I can do that by backpedaling through a rag soaked in Simple Green or OMS or ProLink. What I would love is if these machines actually cleaned the crud out that I can't remove that way.

mrfunnyhaha

Two years in regular service and the only issue I've had with the CM5 is that the pins of the large brush wheel don't fit quite right, so sometimes the wheel doesn't spin. I've never had an issue with the quality of the cleaning job.

I use two applications of full strength Simplegreen, running the chain about 90-120 seconds on each. Then once or twice with water to flush it. If you have stuff that is still stuck between the links, seems like it could be dried on. Maybe try one application of SG, and let it sit for a few minutes, then go again.

Once every ~250mi and my chain still goes from black to almost new shiny. Use a separate brush to get the chainrings and cogs, then dry with a reverse vacuum cleaner and your drive train will look like something special.

BTW are you guys filling the CM5 to the fill line?

myankelovich

I just bought and used one of these for the first time. I'm pretty happy with the way the chain came out, but seems like a lot of the brush bristles were getting stuck in the links ... wondering if I did something wrong. Any ideas? Or is this common?

rushbikes

Rad! Do people actually use these things?

Nachoman

That's A LOT of water, in my opinion. I use a small fraction of that amount, when I clean my bike.

Jed19

I have one that I bought when they were around $55 or so. They must be real popular, as HF keep jacking up the price each time I see them. I never use mine for bicycle chains though, as that's overkill in my view. It is good for cleaning stuff like your sunglasses, jewelry, waterproof wristwatches etc.

It works quite well.

rushbikes

This (sort of).

Last time I gave my bike a Joy bath, my shifting was sticky for about a week.