frogger42

So, first a bit of background on me to put this in context. In April of this year, I got the bug to finally get the weight off and get healthy. I'm 5'-11", 45 years old (was 44 when this started) and my weight was hovering around the 285 pound mark, though I had spiked to just a hair above 300 at one point. I knew that if I didn't do something soon, I wasn't going to see 50.

I bought a bike based on the recommendation of my cousin who co-owns a cycling shop. I ended up with a Breezer Radar Expert. For my current needs, it is great. The beefier tires and steel frame help it handle my larger frame and it is as much bike as I could justify buying when I wasn't sure how well I'd stick to it. I got the shorts and the shoes and the helmet and I started riding. The main issue I was having was that I live in the foothills of mountains and there are very few places without hills that were just to steep for me to handle at my current fitness level (and I hadn't been on a bike in over 20 years so I didn't really feel comfortable riding in traffic).

Since then, I've had some ups and downs, but I've gotten comfortable on the bike and I've started doing some walking/running as well. Last month, I completed a quarter marathon with my wife. I've only lost about 10 pounds so far, but I know I am much more fit than I was and I'm making progress.

So, this leads me to my question... I've set a goal for myself to lose 50 pounds (get down to 235) and to complete a half metric century ride (31 miles). I'm quite a ways from both of those goals, but when I reach them, I want to treat myself with a bike upgrade. I'd like something built for long rides since I'd eventually like to complete a full century ride. I'd like to get better components (Shimano 105 is currently the level I'm hoping for) and of course a lighter, faster bike.

So far, the only model I've found that fits all my requirements is a Fuji Grand Fondo 2.3. If that turns out to be the right bike, that's fine. My cousin's shop sells Fuji, Breezer and Trek so keeping the business in the family and giving him the sale would be a plus. I should also note that my cousin's shop is an hour away and there is shop near me that sells Specialized that I've used quite a bit for smaller items and maintenance and like them a lot, so I'd be happy giving them my business as well. However, this is going to be a major financial investment and I want to make sure I get it right so if a different brand than these is the best fit, so be it. I'm hoping that I can pick up the pace on my training and meet this goal by next summer.

Here is what I'm looking for...

Under $2000, prefer under $1500 if possible.
Aluminum or Carbon frame
Shimano 105 group set
Endurance or Touring geometry. I want to use this to take longer and longer rides so I'm looking for comfort.
Prefer disc brakes and slightly wider tires, but that isn't a deal breaker. My current bike has the gravel tires and disc brakes and I plan to keep it, so I can always use it when weather is poor.

Thanks in advance for the feedback. I realize it is early, and some things could change about what is available, but whatever general knowledge I can learn about brands, features, etc... will still be useful between now and then, and dreaming of my shiny new bike helps motivate me to meet the goal.

Maelochs

I relate. I just made a deal with myself---no more bikes until I lose 50 lbs. it is going to be tough, I fear ... but that's the point, right? Achieve a tough goal, reap a big reward?

If you can run at all at your size ... you are doing fantastic. I can't run around the block ... but I can ride about 50 miles. Different folks. But congratulations. Running is Much harder, so you are probably a lot more fit than I. Bravo. (Anyway ... rambling is easy .... )

I own a Fuji Sportif, which as far as I know is the aluminum version of the Grand Fondo. I recommend the bike and the company.

Fuji (it seems to me) sells just as good a product at a significantly lower price than the Big Four (Giant, Trek, Cannondale, Specialized.) The name doesn't carry the same cachet ... but then, how much "cachet" can there be in driving Ford or GM, anyway?

In terms of parts and performance, I see no real difference between my Fuji and the same bikes at the same component level offered by the big companies. The only thing I didn't get was a decal ... and another $300 on the bill.

I would go for a carbon Grand Fondo with 105 as about the perfect "endurance-geometry" bike. Since you are getting it from a relative, I assume he will take a lot of time to make sure you get the right size. Mine came with a Big stack of spacers, so i can drop the bars a long way if i want to, as my stomach shrinks and my core strength and flexibility improve ... but so far I have opted not to because the bike is so comfortable.

I did change the seat post and saddle .. I wanted a longer seat post because of my unusual proportions, and I had an inexpensive saddle that I liked. The stock saddle might have fit me well, but what I have is perfect for me so .... Riding the bike is like sitting on the sofa, almost. it is non-demanding.

The only drawback to the bike is its weight, which is Not high, but that's why I would recommend the CF Gran Fondo ... drop five pounds from the start. I had personal reasons for wanting to stay with aluminum (I have a CF bike and another in the mail, so I didn't need to get another one.)

If you get disc breaks, i'd recommend Hydro discs, but if you get mechanical discs, Get TRP Spyre C ... they are great. Not quite the brick-wall-impact of hydros, but good solid brakes which will stop you the same on a dry road or in a two-inch puddle.

Once again ... Congratulations.

Wileyrat

In your price range, given your parameters, I'd be looking at Fuji Roubaix's.

A Roubaix 1.3 is right there.

frogger42

That looks nice, but it seems more like a racing geometry. Since I'm looking to add distance, wouldn't an endurance or touring geometry be a better fit? I do realize that as I lose weight, I'll be able to handle a much lower riding position, but it still seems like I'd be better off with something more endurance leaning.

noruckus

Cannondale Synaspe 105 Carbon should run right about $2000,with disk breaks, you can move down to aluminium for about $500 less, I ride a 2015 model and love it.
Being a large man, I'm 6'1" and 213 lbs and ride with others bigger than me I'd suggest spend the most you can and put money away for beefier rims when the factory finally break, American Classic makes some great rims for large men, I ride often with an ex semi pro linebacker 290 lbs and a beast, he has moved onto such rims after have massive failure with factory rims.

FlamsteadHill

I'd take a good look at the Trek Domane. SL5 is CF/rim at $2k with 105.

You can get the ALR5 aluminum "Gravel" 105/Disc for just under $1800. Comes with cushy 35mm tires.

I've had my SL5 for just a month and love it.

twodownzero

I'd buy a Surly Cross Check if I were you.

Lazyass

The Raleigh Merit 3 is an endurance bike, 105 group, and thru axles for the discs. It cost $1200 unless you sign up for the corporate discount (there's a thread on it), in which case it's only $750 w/ free ship and all sizes are in stock. It's the best deal you'll find.

https://www.raleighusa.com/merit-21752

Ironfish653

I'm 5-10, just on the far side of 200#, although, the plus seems to be creeping up as I approach 40.
Most of the guys I ride with are significantly taller and heavier than I am.

Trek Domane and Cannondale Synapse are very popular, with the guys who need really big bikes have Cannondales.
(and one Ti Zinn)

I like the Synapse myself (105 disc, AL) but that Raleigh looks like an amazing deal.

frogger42

I do like the look of the Cannondale Synapse (though I wish they were a little less proud of their name). However, it only comes with 25's for tires. Any idea how big the frame can accommodate?

FlamsteadHill

I seriously considered the Merit, but there were none nearby for me to try. One ride on the Domane sold me.

One further thought - like most modern cars, as long as you like the features, the seating position is comfortable, and the price is in your budget, you can spend days/weeks/months reading, thinking, riding, etc, but unless you are a pro where fractions of seconds count, you will probably be more than happy with many options. I would say that more important (as long as all the boxes are checked) is the shop - service, support and proximity.

Doctor Morbius

Organic or composite?

sfh

I ride a Cannondale, and I haven't been able to shake the idea that I'm riding a commercial. The 2018 Synapse is said to accomodate 32mm tires while previous versions would clear 28mm.

For your first post, I can't imagine that you'll find a better deal on a similar spec than that Raleigh. I don't even see many used bikes at that spec at that price. Geo isn't that different than the Synapse.

Chipbyrd 

I have lost 150 lbs and went from hybrid (which I still ride with my wife) to an Anyroad. I wanted a drop bar bike that would be comfortable and fit 32mm tires. Loved the Anyroad. 105 too!

teebox

I was in the same situation as you earlier this year and I ended up purchasing a Felt VR40 from my LBS. The Felt is Aluminum with carbon forks and seatpost, endurance geometry, disk brakes, 21 lbs and under 1500 USD. The VR means variable road and although not a cyclocross bike, I have ridden it on some hard packed gravel trails with no issues.

I looked at Cannondale ( I own a Cannondale Adventure for leisure), I looked at Trek, BMC and Fuji. In the end, I chose the Felt as it just fit me better. That is the key, do not get hung up with brand, go for fit and comfort. Find a LBS that will let you ride several of them. This process might take a while. I visited several shops and talked to several people and rode several makes and models before I finally purchased the Felt. Take your time as you are going to shell out a little cash and you want to make sure you have made a choice that you can live with and ride for while.

MRT2

Congratulations on starting something new and sticking with it. I would advise caution with your plan to upgrade bikes, which IMO is premature and unnecessary. This is very common. You take up cycling, find you enjoy it and suddenly have a case of upgradeitis. You have a long way to go before you outgrow the capabilities of your current bike.

1. Your current bike. I looked it up because I was not familiar with it. Your cousin advised you well. Buy a new bike if you want but honestly, there is no reason you can't ride that Breezer another 5 to 7 years. It looks like a fine bicycle that is capable of a lot more than perhaps you give it credit for, and would be worth doing a little upgrading now. First, I would suggest going with a lighter, more supple tire. 45 mm is seriously overkill unless you are riding some really rough roads.
I would go down to 38 mm or even smaller, maybe 32 mm. You will still have plenty of cushion, but your current bike will feel a bit zippier with lighter more roadish tires. Once you lose some weight, you can look into upgrading wheels, which is the next logical place to upgrade. In any event, you should be able to reach your goal of 30 miles and go beyond that and do a century on your current bike. That is what it is built for.

2. Weight loss is most about what, and how much you eat, and not all that much about how much you ride (unless you ride an insane amount of miles). For real. Be prepared to see yourself lose and gain the same 10 to 20 lbs over and over unless you permanently change your eating habits and lifestyle. I tell you that from personal experience. Every spring and all the way through to fall, I work myself up to 25 to 40 miles every Saturday and Sunday (start at 40 miles every weekend, work up to 75 miles per weekend by late summer), almost every weekend, and another 12 to 20 miles twice a week during the week. Guess what? I lose a few lbs early in the season, then it levels off, and once mileage goes down in late fall, the weight tends to come back. Once you reach a certain threshold, bicycle riding almost no effect on weight.

3. Related to my first point, you don't need Shimano 105 or Ultegra to do a lot of riding. Certainly not to ride 30 miles, which in the scheme of things is a goal you should be able to achieve very soon. And not to complete a century. Why? Your current bike is a 2 x 9. 105 would bring you up to 2 x 11, so 2 extra cogs. I know a lot of enthusiasts suggest if you upgrade, 105 is the place to start, and it makes a certain amount of sense since 11 speed is state of the art. But you have 9 speed, which in the scheme of things is more than most people need, and in fact is functionally identical or better than the stuff the pros used as recently as 15 years ago. Put another way, what you currently have is as good as the components Lance Armstrong raced on early in his career, and better than anything Lemond, Hinault, Indurain, or Merckx raced across France in a generation ago. (and their stuff was very good)

GamblerGORD53

Sheeesh. Just ride the bike you have. I do day centuries on a 75 lb tour bike with IGH.

mstateglfr 

1- The Breezer you bought is really cool. It’s an awesome mix build for the $.
a. The drivetrain- a 48-32 crank mated to a 9 speed 11-36 cassette, is really creative and not something that is seen enough on drop bar bikes right now. Not enough drop bar bikes are set up new with gearing that will be beneficial to most riders who will buy the bikes. A 50-34 crank mated to an 11-28 cassette is simply a waste of high end gear options with not enough low end gear options for most recreational/fitness riders I see. They arent using that 50/11 often enough or at a high enough cadence to actually need it and adjusting the drivetrain gearing ratios would allow for easier climbing(maybe more people would try routes with climb then!).
b. The tires are large, but allow for some natural suspension to absorb all the bumps that would otherwise be felt at higher pressure with skinnier tires.

2- Speaking of climbing, you mentioned being at the base of mountains and most routes are too difficult for you at your current fitness level. If that’s still the case(I assume it is since you mention ‘current fitness level’), then getting a road bike with even more limited gearing will only make it more difficult to ride those climbing routes. If you are OK with that, cool, I just want to point this out so you take the gearing into consideration since it is so often ignored/misunderstood.
The Fuji Gran Fondo 2.3 is a sweet looking bike- with a 50/34 crank mated to an 11/28 cassette. For $70 extra or so, you will probably be able to change it to a 50/34 crank mated to an 11/32 cassette which will make climbing easier, but still nowhere close to as easy as your current bike’s drivetrain.

3- I would be shocked if the wheelset on the Fuji would reliably last, given your weight(current and target) and stated goal of riding a lot(high usage). This isnt coming from any place other than my experience as a larger rider and being hesitant of wheelsets that look lightweight and strong but are ultimately just underconstructed for heavier riders. Fuji’s(parent company ASI, really) use of Oval branded wheelsets means we have 0 idea on quality. Its an unknown and as a result, a common place for companies to cut costs since it means wheels cant be compared to competition during the buying process.


The Raleigh Merit 3 was already mentioned in this thread and I think it deserves consideration for a couple reasons-
- Cost- its simply an incredible value. If you are going to get a road bike with more limited gearing than you have, you might as well get one that isnt going to max out the budget since you wont be able to ride it in any more places than you already ride.
- Spend $750 now to get a 105 drivetrain and disc brakes, then ‘upgrade’ later on after you have continued to get stronger at cycling, if you feel like its needed. The 3-5# difference between a Merit 3 and the Fuji GF 2.3 will not be noticed right now or even after 30# of weight loss. <--- this may be disagreed with by many, but 3-5# really wont make a lick of difference when significant climbing and racing arent involved.
- If you are going to have wheel issues, then you might as well have money to spend on quality strong wheels. Spending $300-500 for a quality wheelset is going to be easier to swallow if you havent already dropped $2000 on the bike.




Whatever you choose-
- just take time to understand the gearing you are giving up by moving to a compact drivetrain road bike since that will limit your ride options even more than what they already are.
- be aware of the inherent weakness of low spoke generic machine built wheelsets for heavier riders.

79pmooney

I'll second going with Fuji. Now I haven't ridden or owned one since the Professional I raced in the '70s but I have kept an eye on the bikes and their philosophy.

What I have seen, both with my race bike and since is Fuji providing very good, reliable frames equipped with excellent drive trains and money saved with seats, seatposts and good but not fancy non-brand handlebars and stems. Also on the stuff that wears out. (My Pro had Nitto bars and stem. In those days Nitto was not Cinelli or TTT and looked down on as a no-name! Likewise, little known Sanshin hubs. The wheels were raceable but the spokes were clunker 14 ga and the rims and tires so-so. Quite decent training and club racing wheels. But the hubs! - the one part you are going to keep past a season - very high quality! As good as any. I wasn't going to fully appreciate how good they were for years.) Fuji figures you are going to change the seat so why spend there (and cost you). Fuji also has had close ties to manufacturers. I don't know how true that is today but they used to be very close with Nitto, SunTour, DiaCompe and Sugino.

If you go Fuji, I doubt you will regret it. In fact, after wearing out the usuals and replacing with better and putting on "your" seat and favorite handlebar tape, you may well find the bike is a true "keeper".

Ben

MRT2

That is so true. The compact crank of most road bikes is a lot taller than the gearing OP has on his Breezer. If he has a hard time climbing hills with the Breezer, he will need to get a lot stronger to handle the taller gearing on most road doubles. I like to have at least a 1:1 gear, but I live in flat to moderate rolling hills Southeastern Wisconsin. If I lived in the mountains, I might prefer something like the Breezer with a mountain cassette.

FlamsteadHill

One thing to consider is OVERALL gear ratio. From what I can tell, the Radar is a 29er. Use this link (or the one of your choice) to do a real world comparison that accounts for tire OD.

32/36 on 29x2.1 = 24.6 GI
36/32 on 700x25 = 29.7 GI

A step up, yes. But bike weight, rolling resistance, more efficient power transfer, wheel/tire weight inertia, and who knows what else all contribute to easier climbing. I went from a 28/32 on 27.5x2.00 to a 36/32 on 700x28 and actually found it easier, even though the GI is higher.

All that said, having now looked at your current bike's specs, I agree with those who have said that is all the bike you "need" for now or even quite a while. If I had that bike I probably would not have gotten my Domane. I would just get some narrower, more road oriented tires and ride it for a year or two. Then again, if money is not an issue, and you couldn't be putting it elsewhere more enjoyably, go for it. If you have $2k burning a hole in your pocket, get a Domane SL5. That's my advice and I expect you to pay every penny of what it's worth.

TweedleyD

I can give you some insight on the Fuji's . My Roomate has the Roubaix and he likes it really well, I have rode it don't really care the ride of an Aluminum Frame I on the other Hand have the Gran Fondo Love it an Very Comfortable , the Package is Ultegra so a Little Upscale there which is fine an cheaper than going Dura Ace . I have a Friend who also has the Gran Fondo same as mine different Color an he was weighing in at 330 and now down to just under 280 so it will handle your Weight Love the Comfortability of the Endurance Frame . I also have the Transonic love that Bike but it has you more Stretched out of course it is a Racing Frame all depends what you want what you wanna do an ride , I can Roll just as Fast on either Bike it all depends on You but for the Gran Fondo you Can't go wrong . I myself upgraded the Seatpost , Handlebars and I added Aerobars also to cheat the Wind I also upgraded the Rims to Dura Ace C24's my budd that has the Gran Fondo upgraded his to Ultegra Rims an he loves em , If you have a Performance Bike around wait for Double or Triple Points can save you some Cash . But the Main thing is about Biking is doesn't matter what you Ride just So You Roll an lol you will get Upgradeitus only cause you can , Keep us informed what you decide to go with

frogger42

Just for some clarification, the specs some are quoting on my bike are not quite accurate. I have a 2017 Breezer Radar Expert, but the current 2018 model has much wider tires (not that mine are skinny). My tires are VERA EOS 700 x 38c. Actually really glad I got the 2017 over the 2018. I don't care for the color they are offering this year and the tires seem TOO wide. Also, my rear gears are Shimano HG-50 11-32 and the new version is apparently 11-36. I found a link to the specs on my model here...

Breezer Radar Expert - Silver Cycles - Bike Shop - Silver Spring & Kensington, MD

FlamsteadHill

Gear wise, it sounds like you would not be giving anything up by going to a more road/endurance bike. But then again, I'm not sure how much you would gain either.

Maelochs

The Breezer Radar Expert, circa 2017:
Sora 2x9, 48/32x11-32

Vera Terra Disc, Tubeless Compatible, Formula sealed bearing hubs/front & rear, 32H (oval house brand)
Handlebars Oval Concepts 325, 6061 alloy, 31.8mm clamp, 125mm drop, 25 degree flare, 4 degree sweep
Tape/Grips Oval Concepts 300 bar tape, suede
Stem Oval Concepts 313, 3D-forged 6061 stem body, +/-7 degree
Saddle WTB Volt, Satin Steel Rail
Seat Post Oval Concepts 300, 6061 alloy, 27.2mm diameter

The wheels and cockpit are Oval ... same as you would find on the Fuji. The wheels on my Sportif were a Little heavy but at 32-hole disc wheels ... not porky, and strong. I trust Oval wheels for durability. I swapped them for some Vueltas for performance ... but I am a feather-lite eighth of a ton.

I really like the Radar .... but you Could save five pounds by going to the CF Gran Fondo. You might not notice it or you might---I can Really tell when I swap my Sportif for my Workswell, which is ten pound slighter .... for the first several miles. Then it all becomes riding and I can’t much tell.

The Radar is a really nice bike. it is a little more gravel-oriented than you might need---28- or 32-mm tires should serve you well unless you ride primarily dirt or terrible chip-seal. it is overbuilt possibly for your needs .... but a really nice bike, and maybe still perfect for you.

As @mstateglfr mentions, the Radar has great gearing for a big guy in hilly country. I am not sure how big the Sora rear derailleur can go, but I would look at a 34- or 36-tooth low gear if you cannot get up the hills.

50-34 is not that much bigger than 48-32, and coupled with a lighter bike and narrower tires, it might be a wash ... which would mean you would have exactly the same amount of trouble with the hills.

I assume the bottom bracket on the Radar is a square-taper? it doesn’t say (SRAM Sealed Cartridge) but I think Fuji uses a 386 (BB86) which means you couldn’t just swap the cranks. Too bad.

More useless stuff I can say: Sometimes getting a new bike is motivation itself .... you feel rewarded, you like the new bike, you want to ride it more. Of course the danger there is that when you get on the new bike and find out “Wow, the bike has changed but I have not, and i am still winded after just a little hill .... “ that can sap motivation.

Unless you get electric-assist, the bike won’t ride itself. I have several bikes to choose from, but whichever I ride on any given day, short little hills Still kick my butt. I still have to work hard to go uphill, unfair as that seems.

I guess, if you really want a new bike, get one. You already have the will and discipline to ride the thing, and the variety can be kind of fun. But don’t expect a radically new experience on the new bike. You will still be you.

Regarding weight loss and cycling .... I have to echo @MRT2 in that diet is 85 percent of weight loss. I can burn a thousand calories on a hard ride ... and eat two fat sandwiches and drink a can of Mountain Dew and take in 1200.

I have to use extreme willpower .... which I don’t have .... to watch What I eat, how much, and When ... that late-night snack I have been eating since I was 15 or so is a real killer nowadays.

I have also have had to deal with overeating for psychological purposes—which is really important to cure, but which has been pretty hard.

Riding the bike helps a lot for a lot of reasons: burning calories, getting out of the house, having to be alone with my thoughts, and kicking up my metabolism ... but I realized I also need to control my weight when I can’t ride (broke a shoulder and gained back 30+ pounds .... if I get sick or injured again, I am too old to have to go through all that weight/fitness loss and then have to regain it all. The fitness I might lose if I cannot exercise—but taking all that weight off Again ... and to was so hard the first few times ... )

Anyway sorry ... this isn’t an Overeater’s Anonymous meeting (Hi, my name is Maelochs and I’d rather be eating ... )

Congrats on the decision to upgrade your life. Upgrading your bike .... it will happen sooner or later no matter what. But the only real upgrades, you make on yourself.