How to properly wash bike?
03-25-10, 11:36 AM
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How to properly wash bike?
I searched, seriously, but didn't find anything relative. I'm sure this has been asked before, perhaps my searching skills are subpar. Sorry 
How do you properly wash a bike? I'm going to do it this weekend and was just planning on using car wash soap and going over the whole bike and then using some chain lube afterwards to grease things back up. Are there any parts I should avoid with the soap?
Also, to really clean up the chain/gears, would it be a bad idea for me to use some simple green and then oil it back up afterwards? Or just stick with soap?
How do you properly wash a bike? I'm going to do it this weekend and was just planning on using car wash soap and going over the whole bike and then using some chain lube afterwards to grease things back up. Are there any parts I should avoid with the soap?
Also, to really clean up the chain/gears, would it be a bad idea for me to use some simple green and then oil it back up afterwards? Or just stick with soap?
03-25-10, 11:51 AM
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The art of bike washing may not be as hotly debated as the art of chain lubing or the art wheel building, yet there are a few diffent factions here as well. What most agree on however is that high-pressure washing is a no-no. Some are OK with a narrow nozzle off the garden hose, some think even that is excessive force.
Personally I use a discarded brush from the kitchen sink, hot water and some washing up liquid. I start with a quick rinse courtesy of garden hose, then I dab on the suds and chase them around with the brush until boredom or cleanliness has been achieved. Sometimes a mid-stage rinse and a 2nd application is called for. Anyhow I end it with a rinse, bounce the bike on its wheels a couple of times and try to find a sunny/warm spot for it to dry up in. Once dryness (or boredom) sets in I go over the chain with a oiled cloth, or maybe give it a dribble from the oil can, turn the crank a few turns and then I call it a day.
Occasionally, as not to spoil the bike, I bring out the goodies - the rubbing, the car wax and the other paraphernalia and go at it as well. Can't hurt, and at least the first ride on the shiny bike is a bit more fun.
Personally I use a discarded brush from the kitchen sink, hot water and some washing up liquid. I start with a quick rinse courtesy of garden hose, then I dab on the suds and chase them around with the brush until boredom or cleanliness has been achieved. Sometimes a mid-stage rinse and a 2nd application is called for. Anyhow I end it with a rinse, bounce the bike on its wheels a couple of times and try to find a sunny/warm spot for it to dry up in. Once dryness (or boredom) sets in I go over the chain with a oiled cloth, or maybe give it a dribble from the oil can, turn the crank a few turns and then I call it a day.
Occasionally, as not to spoil the bike, I bring out the goodies - the rubbing, the car wax and the other paraphernalia and go at it as well. Can't hurt, and at least the first ride on the shiny bike is a bit more fun.
03-25-10, 11:57 AM
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found this in another thread today:
The compulsive soul's guide to cleaning your bike
By Douglas A. Rogers
Slowtwitch.com
5/8/2003
It is said that a clean car does not necessarily run better. This logic does not apply to a bike.
Drive train components aren't safely hidden behind seals and cases, as is the case with cars, but are open to the vicissitudes of Mother Nature and the roadways. They must remain clean and properly lubricated to ensure long life and efficiency ? a clean bike is a fast bike.
Chains
We'll start with the component that has the most moving parts, the chain. You do not need one of those fancy chain cleaners made by Park or Finish Line. Sure, they work, but your chain does not require one of these devices in order to be properly cleaned.
There is only one catch in this cheaper solution: if you have a Shimano or Campagnolo chain, you will want to replace it with either a Wippermann or Sachs chain. These chains have an easily replaceable master-link that allows you to remove the entire chain easily without much fuss. Also, these chains do not require expensive pins to remount the chain onto the drive train.
The Wippermann chain in stainless steel is especially nice as the metal is corrosion-proof. This characteristic, however, does not preclude proper cleaning and lubrication. Consult your local bike shop for proper installation of new chain. If the chain and cassette are old enough, you may want to replace the whole set.
After removing chain from the bicycle, put the chain into a butter tub and saturate with self-cleaning lube. If the chain is extremely dirty, use a degreaser (like Simple Green) and a toothbrush to brush off all the buried dirt and debris.
After rinsing and drying thoroughly, start to soak the chain in self-cleaning lube. I like to agitate the chain in the butter tub, then wipe it thoroughly using a rag. Wipe several times.
Doing this after every wet/dirty ride will ensure that your chain is easy to clean and stays well-lubricated. This also prevents lubricant from dripping all over the floor. Clean your butter tub with degreaser afterward.
(For more information on chain-cleaning, see this article on Slowtwitch.)
Cassettes
Spray a toothbrush with degreaser, then brush thoroughly. Make sure you get every nook and cranny. I do not advocate spraying directly onto the cassette as over spray can creep into bearings and dilute the grease. Let degreaser soak for a minute or two. Rinse thoroughly, taking care not to use too much water pressure.
Wheels
Clean the wheels with a sponge, regular dishwashing detergent and water. With your sponge, clean the tires, then rims, then in the spokes and the hub. Do not get detergent onto the bearing seals. Rinse thoroughly, using the same method suggested on cleaning cassettes.
Dry off the wheel and tire. On the rear wheel, take a thin rag (like a pair of old underpants) and rub it in the space between the cogs. This will ensure that the cogs are clean.
Chain rings
Remove them from the crank (you may need a special inexpensive wrench to remove the chain-ring bolts; ask your local bike shop), put them into a sink, bolts and all. Spray degreaser onto all of the surfaces. Brush thoroughly, let soak for a minute or so. Rinse thoroughly and either allow to drip-dry or dry with towel.
One note on steel chain ring bolts: Dry immediately and apply your favorite grease to the threads and on a thin layer to the other surfaces of the bolts. If unsure of the grease to use, consult the mechanic who usually does your bike repairs.
Frame
This is where the most help is needed. I have seen many Cannondale Headshoks need an expensive bearing replacement after an overzealous rider decided to use a pressure-washer or run the bike through the car wash. Tri bikes don't generally get quite as dirty, but if there's a rainy race with a bit of mud on the street, the bike can look quite nasty.
With chain still off of the bike, look over the drive train. If the rear derailleur's pulleys leave a spot of dark grease on a rag, it is a good indication that the pulleys need to be cleaned. There will most likely be a crusty dirt/lubricant hybrid on the cage of the front derailleur, as well as a lot of gunk on the brakes.
On the pulleys
Spray degreaser onto the toothbrush as described in the paragraph covering cassette cleaning. Brush thoroughly, avoiding the bearing of the pulleys. You can also clean the cage, but be careful of the pulley bearings.
Then, you should clean any other place on the bike that has crusty dirt with degreaser and toothbrush. If the front brake looks bad enough, remove the front brake to make sure and clean the area of the fork that is covered by the front brake.
With your cup of dishwashing detergent and water solution, clean the bike from the saddle down. This includes bar tape, as well. You do not want to get into the greasy parts of the bike until last, as the grease can get onto your saddle and bar tape. Avoid the headset and bottom bracket bearings. On a sealed headset, you can gingerly clean the cups, just avoid the openings and wipe with clean rag immediately.
Rinse the bike thoroughly, using minimal pressure. Avoid water pressure on the bearings, but do rinse the cups if there are suds in that area. Rinse from the top down.
Dry the frame and components thoroughly, using an old towel.
Touch-up
After you dry the bike thoroughly, inspect the frame for any chips in the paint. This is also a good time to inspect any of the joining areas for cracking. A clean bike does not hide cracks in the frame.
If you find any paint chips, there are two ways to fill them.
If the chip only shows grey: After cleaning area with lint-free cloth and rubbing alcohol, use well-shaken (according to manufacturer's directions) touch-up paint (supplied from painter, bike manufacturer, auto parts store, or stash of nail polishes) sparingly, applying thin coats. One to three coats is all that is needed. If you want, use clear coat, as well.
If the chip goes to bare metal or other material: If you see rust, sand the area of the chip until metal is shiny. You can feather into surrounding paint, but chips on bikes are usually small. Clean area with rubbing alcohol first. Use well-shaken primer, usually one coat. This dries pretty quickly. Then apply one to three coats of desired touch-up paint; allow to dry, then clear coat if desired.
On clear-coated carbon fiber: sand with high-grit (400-600) sandpaper, feathering edges of clear coat and rendering it smooth. Clean area to be repaired with acetone or rubbing alcohol. Then mix a small amount of clear household epoxy according to manufacturer's directions. Apply the mixed epoxy into the area that is scratched only, and feather into the old clear coat. This will help, but not completely even out the surface, as well as help with the UV protection.
Allow to dry completely (overnight), or keep covered until the other steps in reassembling the bike are done. I would only suggest wet sanding completely cured epoxy (three or more days) for the brave and completely experienced.
Lubrication
With wet or dry lube, drip lubricant onto every conceivable pivot point of the changers, brakes, shifters, etc. Make sure the springs are lubed, as well. Wipe off any excess with clean rag.
Many bolts for brake mounting are made of a durable, but easily rusting steel. These should be lightly greased with a good bicycle grease.
Aluminum seat posts in metal bikes ought to be removed and greased. It is very important to clean the inside of the seat tube with a rag, inserting in, then pulling the rag out with a twist. While you're at it, re-grease the bolt for the seat-post collar.
Carbon seat posts should not be greased, but the inside of the seat tube should stay clean, as the seat tube can cold-weld carbon as well as it can aluminum. Just make sure it stays clean inside.
If you have a steel-frame bike, a very important step is the use of J.P. Weigle's Frame Saver. This $10 - $15 can of liquid gold is IMPERATIVE for the life of any steel bike. Cover up the vent holes of your freshly cleaned steed and make sure to wipe the excess from your uncovered vent holes. The frame will stay clean if you wipe immediately.
Make sure to lube any exposed cables, even if they're made of stainless steel. This ensures clean, rust-free cables.
Reassembly
Install chain onto bike after wiping once again. Make sure to wipe any excess lubes or grease from any surfaces that you have lubed.
When reassembling the chain wheels onto the crankset, make sure to grease the threads on the chain ring bolts. This is as imperative on both steel and aluminum bolts. The thin coat of grease on the bolts described in the paragraph pertaining to them is not necessary on aluminum chain ring bolts, but necessity on steel ones.
Any bolts you have removed must be greased before reinserting. Wipe excess grease from surfaces after tightening.
Install the wheels, and admire your handiwork.
The compulsive soul's guide to cleaning your bike
By Douglas A. Rogers
Slowtwitch.com
5/8/2003
It is said that a clean car does not necessarily run better. This logic does not apply to a bike.
Drive train components aren't safely hidden behind seals and cases, as is the case with cars, but are open to the vicissitudes of Mother Nature and the roadways. They must remain clean and properly lubricated to ensure long life and efficiency ? a clean bike is a fast bike.
Chains
We'll start with the component that has the most moving parts, the chain. You do not need one of those fancy chain cleaners made by Park or Finish Line. Sure, they work, but your chain does not require one of these devices in order to be properly cleaned.
There is only one catch in this cheaper solution: if you have a Shimano or Campagnolo chain, you will want to replace it with either a Wippermann or Sachs chain. These chains have an easily replaceable master-link that allows you to remove the entire chain easily without much fuss. Also, these chains do not require expensive pins to remount the chain onto the drive train.
The Wippermann chain in stainless steel is especially nice as the metal is corrosion-proof. This characteristic, however, does not preclude proper cleaning and lubrication. Consult your local bike shop for proper installation of new chain. If the chain and cassette are old enough, you may want to replace the whole set.
After removing chain from the bicycle, put the chain into a butter tub and saturate with self-cleaning lube. If the chain is extremely dirty, use a degreaser (like Simple Green) and a toothbrush to brush off all the buried dirt and debris.
After rinsing and drying thoroughly, start to soak the chain in self-cleaning lube. I like to agitate the chain in the butter tub, then wipe it thoroughly using a rag. Wipe several times.
Doing this after every wet/dirty ride will ensure that your chain is easy to clean and stays well-lubricated. This also prevents lubricant from dripping all over the floor. Clean your butter tub with degreaser afterward.
(For more information on chain-cleaning, see this article on Slowtwitch.)
Cassettes
Spray a toothbrush with degreaser, then brush thoroughly. Make sure you get every nook and cranny. I do not advocate spraying directly onto the cassette as over spray can creep into bearings and dilute the grease. Let degreaser soak for a minute or two. Rinse thoroughly, taking care not to use too much water pressure.
Wheels
Clean the wheels with a sponge, regular dishwashing detergent and water. With your sponge, clean the tires, then rims, then in the spokes and the hub. Do not get detergent onto the bearing seals. Rinse thoroughly, using the same method suggested on cleaning cassettes.
Dry off the wheel and tire. On the rear wheel, take a thin rag (like a pair of old underpants) and rub it in the space between the cogs. This will ensure that the cogs are clean.
Chain rings
Remove them from the crank (you may need a special inexpensive wrench to remove the chain-ring bolts; ask your local bike shop), put them into a sink, bolts and all. Spray degreaser onto all of the surfaces. Brush thoroughly, let soak for a minute or so. Rinse thoroughly and either allow to drip-dry or dry with towel.
One note on steel chain ring bolts: Dry immediately and apply your favorite grease to the threads and on a thin layer to the other surfaces of the bolts. If unsure of the grease to use, consult the mechanic who usually does your bike repairs.
Frame
This is where the most help is needed. I have seen many Cannondale Headshoks need an expensive bearing replacement after an overzealous rider decided to use a pressure-washer or run the bike through the car wash. Tri bikes don't generally get quite as dirty, but if there's a rainy race with a bit of mud on the street, the bike can look quite nasty.
With chain still off of the bike, look over the drive train. If the rear derailleur's pulleys leave a spot of dark grease on a rag, it is a good indication that the pulleys need to be cleaned. There will most likely be a crusty dirt/lubricant hybrid on the cage of the front derailleur, as well as a lot of gunk on the brakes.
On the pulleys
Spray degreaser onto the toothbrush as described in the paragraph covering cassette cleaning. Brush thoroughly, avoiding the bearing of the pulleys. You can also clean the cage, but be careful of the pulley bearings.
Then, you should clean any other place on the bike that has crusty dirt with degreaser and toothbrush. If the front brake looks bad enough, remove the front brake to make sure and clean the area of the fork that is covered by the front brake.
With your cup of dishwashing detergent and water solution, clean the bike from the saddle down. This includes bar tape, as well. You do not want to get into the greasy parts of the bike until last, as the grease can get onto your saddle and bar tape. Avoid the headset and bottom bracket bearings. On a sealed headset, you can gingerly clean the cups, just avoid the openings and wipe with clean rag immediately.
Rinse the bike thoroughly, using minimal pressure. Avoid water pressure on the bearings, but do rinse the cups if there are suds in that area. Rinse from the top down.
Dry the frame and components thoroughly, using an old towel.
Touch-up
After you dry the bike thoroughly, inspect the frame for any chips in the paint. This is also a good time to inspect any of the joining areas for cracking. A clean bike does not hide cracks in the frame.
If you find any paint chips, there are two ways to fill them.
If the chip only shows grey: After cleaning area with lint-free cloth and rubbing alcohol, use well-shaken (according to manufacturer's directions) touch-up paint (supplied from painter, bike manufacturer, auto parts store, or stash of nail polishes) sparingly, applying thin coats. One to three coats is all that is needed. If you want, use clear coat, as well.
If the chip goes to bare metal or other material: If you see rust, sand the area of the chip until metal is shiny. You can feather into surrounding paint, but chips on bikes are usually small. Clean area with rubbing alcohol first. Use well-shaken primer, usually one coat. This dries pretty quickly. Then apply one to three coats of desired touch-up paint; allow to dry, then clear coat if desired.
On clear-coated carbon fiber: sand with high-grit (400-600) sandpaper, feathering edges of clear coat and rendering it smooth. Clean area to be repaired with acetone or rubbing alcohol. Then mix a small amount of clear household epoxy according to manufacturer's directions. Apply the mixed epoxy into the area that is scratched only, and feather into the old clear coat. This will help, but not completely even out the surface, as well as help with the UV protection.
Allow to dry completely (overnight), or keep covered until the other steps in reassembling the bike are done. I would only suggest wet sanding completely cured epoxy (three or more days) for the brave and completely experienced.
Lubrication
With wet or dry lube, drip lubricant onto every conceivable pivot point of the changers, brakes, shifters, etc. Make sure the springs are lubed, as well. Wipe off any excess with clean rag.
Many bolts for brake mounting are made of a durable, but easily rusting steel. These should be lightly greased with a good bicycle grease.
Aluminum seat posts in metal bikes ought to be removed and greased. It is very important to clean the inside of the seat tube with a rag, inserting in, then pulling the rag out with a twist. While you're at it, re-grease the bolt for the seat-post collar.
Carbon seat posts should not be greased, but the inside of the seat tube should stay clean, as the seat tube can cold-weld carbon as well as it can aluminum. Just make sure it stays clean inside.
If you have a steel-frame bike, a very important step is the use of J.P. Weigle's Frame Saver. This $10 - $15 can of liquid gold is IMPERATIVE for the life of any steel bike. Cover up the vent holes of your freshly cleaned steed and make sure to wipe the excess from your uncovered vent holes. The frame will stay clean if you wipe immediately.
Make sure to lube any exposed cables, even if they're made of stainless steel. This ensures clean, rust-free cables.
Reassembly
Install chain onto bike after wiping once again. Make sure to wipe any excess lubes or grease from any surfaces that you have lubed.
When reassembling the chain wheels onto the crankset, make sure to grease the threads on the chain ring bolts. This is as imperative on both steel and aluminum bolts. The thin coat of grease on the bolts described in the paragraph pertaining to them is not necessary on aluminum chain ring bolts, but necessity on steel ones.
Any bolts you have removed must be greased before reinserting. Wipe excess grease from surfaces after tightening.
Install the wheels, and admire your handiwork.
03-25-10, 12:23 PM
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For a much shorter version :
Start with cleaning the chain. I use Finish line Eco Tech (biodegradable) degreaser and a rag. Spray/pour Degreaser on rag and run chain thru rag (chain need not to be spotless - just clean the outer plates). Then wipe off chainring/jockey wheels.
Once the transmission is clean then you can concentrate on the frame/components/wheels. I treat the bike like it is a dirty dish. With a 5 gal. bucket of warm soapy water (as soapy as if your where washing dish's -- I use a cheap liquid dishwashing detergent ) and a variety of brush's you can now throughly wash the entire bike. Pay special attention to brake pads ( you may want to pick clean and then by using a small file -- smooth out the rubber). Spend as much time as you want washing the bike. The washing can easily be completed in 10-15 minutes but if you want to spend 30-45 minutes washing -- the bike wont mind. Liquid dishwasher detergent is very mild on the bike. There are "special carbon frame" cleaners if you so desire -- I will still use a simple dishwasher detergent.
I use a full water bottle or a water hose w/o a nozzle on it. How much pressure does it take to rinse off bubbles?
Wipe off the bike and follow this up with lube cables , chain and occasionally parts like brake pivot points , derailleurs etc.
May even spray some bike polish on the frame/components/rims etc.
As you get better and clean your bike more often you will find that it really doesn't take very long. Maybe 30 min to 45 min.
Treat your bike like you treat the one you love. If you give your bike good loving once a year -- your bike will probably not love you back. If you give your bike good love several times a year then your bike wll probably love you back even more.
As I said this is a simplified version and you can easily do much more detailed work on the bike. If you are lacking time/mechanical skills this is a proceedure that almost anybody can do. The longer version is for a person with lots of extra time/mechanical skills.
Start with cleaning the chain. I use Finish line Eco Tech (biodegradable) degreaser and a rag. Spray/pour Degreaser on rag and run chain thru rag (chain need not to be spotless - just clean the outer plates). Then wipe off chainring/jockey wheels.
Once the transmission is clean then you can concentrate on the frame/components/wheels. I treat the bike like it is a dirty dish. With a 5 gal. bucket of warm soapy water (as soapy as if your where washing dish's -- I use a cheap liquid dishwashing detergent ) and a variety of brush's you can now throughly wash the entire bike. Pay special attention to brake pads ( you may want to pick clean and then by using a small file -- smooth out the rubber). Spend as much time as you want washing the bike. The washing can easily be completed in 10-15 minutes but if you want to spend 30-45 minutes washing -- the bike wont mind. Liquid dishwasher detergent is very mild on the bike. There are "special carbon frame" cleaners if you so desire -- I will still use a simple dishwasher detergent.
I use a full water bottle or a water hose w/o a nozzle on it. How much pressure does it take to rinse off bubbles?
Wipe off the bike and follow this up with lube cables , chain and occasionally parts like brake pivot points , derailleurs etc.
May even spray some bike polish on the frame/components/rims etc.
As you get better and clean your bike more often you will find that it really doesn't take very long. Maybe 30 min to 45 min.
Treat your bike like you treat the one you love. If you give your bike good loving once a year -- your bike will probably not love you back. If you give your bike good love several times a year then your bike wll probably love you back even more.
As I said this is a simplified version and you can easily do much more detailed work on the bike. If you are lacking time/mechanical skills this is a proceedure that almost anybody can do. The longer version is for a person with lots of extra time/mechanical skills.
Last edited by TLCFORBIKES; 03-25-10 at 12:37 PM.
03-25-10, 01:00 PM
#6
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If you are talking about the wash/wax combo type -- sure. Even many other types can be used. You just need to make sure that the concentration isn't too strong. These cleaning products have a mild degreaser in them so if you get the concentration too strong and then get too much of it in the components you will be very sorry (degreaser will get inside all the bearings-- this is why you do not want to spray or pour degreaser directly onto your bike).
03-25-10, 01:22 PM
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I just stripped mine down to the frame to give it a wash/scratch-x/wax.
Then again I'm in the middle of a complete overhaul, so it was easy to just wash it while its apart.
Then again I'm in the middle of a complete overhaul, so it was easy to just wash it while its apart.
03-25-10, 01:56 PM
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What is this "wash" that you speak of? Didn't anyone see Mythbusters? The dirty car actually went faster and had better gas mileage!
03-25-10, 02:12 PM
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I've never washed any of my bikes. I occasionally wipe off the frame with a damp cloth, sometimes with WD-40 on it to clean up the drive side stays (splattered chain lube). I'll wipe my rims off when I get bored (maybe once a year). I'll clean other parts (crankset, cassette, brakes, etc.) when I have them off the bike for some reason. I clean my chain when I feel it needs it. My bikes don't seem to care.
03-25-10, 02:13 PM
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I'm with Joe. My bikes don't seem to care either. I just make sure the brakes work and the shifters work. And the chain is lubed. That's about it. More dirt=heavy=better workout!
03-25-10, 02:24 PM
#11
You Know!? For Kids!
I think bike cleanliness, with the exception of the C&V crowd is directly related to bike Drop $K or more on a new roadie and you get a bit compulsive about keeping it clean that first season. After that, you gradually reduce your cleaning schedule and you find that during rest stops, you will lean it up against more things, or even just lay it down. Finally, you get to the "meh' stage where you get it down of the hook, dust off the saddle and go for a ride.
Or at least that is what I have been told................
Or at least that is what I have been told................
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03-25-10, 09:34 PM
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I'm with jsharr, joe and triplebutted. The more time I spend washing the bike the less time is available for other activities. However, one thing I would recommend is after a rainy ride, to just give the bike a quick rinse with the hose. If you do this while the dirt is still wet it all rinses right off. If you wait until the next day when it has dried and caked on you'll find it requires much more work to clean. If you take this route, make sure not to use a high pressure nozzle or pressure washer. This can force water past seals and into bearings/etc. You just want a nice, low pressure stream of water, no different than the rain it's been riding through all day. This should only take 1-2 minutes to do.
As far as the bike in general is concerned, I really only use the above method after each rainy ride and it stays pretty clean all year. The only additional cleaning I perform is to periodically clean the braking surface on the rims and pads. I also periodically pull the chain off and drop it in a bucket of mineral spirits on a vibratory paint shaker once in a while. Leaving it for an hour or two on that works all the metal grit(aka: grinding paste) out of the joints. After it has time to air dry for while I then throw it back on the paint shaker, this time in a tub of lubricant. After an hour or two of that it goes back on the bike. Thicker lubricants benefit from some preheating to allow them to penetrate the joints in the chain easier. In total I doubt it takes more than ten minutes of my time and it allows me to get 5000+ miles out of the $7 chain from VO. It's the same procedure I use on my motorcycle chains.
03-25-10, 11:23 PM
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There was a thread on this question in Road Cycling.
I really don't like the idea of hosing a bike... it's more likely to get crud and water where you don't want it. I reckon it's ill-advised and lazy.
The fact is, grit won't usually harm most components; your chain and rims are most vulnerable. It'll pretty much just sit on the outside of everything else.
So after a crud-collecting ride, I'd just wipe the bike down with a wet rag, check my pads aren't hanging onto any grit, and take the chain off and clean it and the cogs and rings. Every now and then it's prolly worth pulling out your jockey wheels and re-greasing em. If you're doing a lot of wet-weather riding, it's prolly not a bad idea to have a spare chain for that. And you'd need to clean and re-lube cables more often.
To clean the bike properly, disassembly is required IMO... but it's only something I'd bother with every few months. Nice gear like DA won't let crap inside most of its workings unless you help it in there by blasting water at it...
The fact is, grit won't usually harm most components; your chain and rims are most vulnerable. It'll pretty much just sit on the outside of everything else.
So after a crud-collecting ride, I'd just wipe the bike down with a wet rag, check my pads aren't hanging onto any grit, and take the chain off and clean it and the cogs and rings. Every now and then it's prolly worth pulling out your jockey wheels and re-greasing em. If you're doing a lot of wet-weather riding, it's prolly not a bad idea to have a spare chain for that. And you'd need to clean and re-lube cables more often.
To clean the bike properly, disassembly is required IMO... but it's only something I'd bother with every few months. Nice gear like DA won't let crap inside most of its workings unless you help it in there by blasting water at it...
03-26-10, 03:29 AM
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The art of bike washing may not be as hotly debated as the art of chain lubing or the art wheel building, yet there are a few diffent factions here as well. What most agree on however is that high-pressure washing is a no-no. Some are OK with a narrow nozzle off the garden hose, some think even that is excessive force.
BEGIN RANT...
I have to disagree with the "never use a high-pressure hose" crowd. The entire bike industry wants to sell you a bunch of fancy brushes, specific bike detergents, special buckets, etc. It's all just a bunch of bull.
Get out the garden hose, get some car wash soap, and blast that dirt off of there. People get all worked up and cry foul about how us high-pressure blasters are going to muck up our bearings and cups and blah, blah, blah. You even get those people to say, "ooooh, well just remember to not shoot directly at bearing surfaces." Oh dear god! It's a freaking bike! Yeah, blast away and be all "careful" if you want to with directing the spray away from bearings. I say just blast it. Even directly cogs, BB, headset and anywhere else that has bearings! Clean it, lube it, and move on with the rest of your day! You aren't going to mess anything up.
03-26-10, 04:36 AM
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03-26-10, 09:12 AM
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IMHO - if bicycle finishes are anything like car finishes, you do NOT want to use a pressure washer on them. High pressure water can actually strip the finishes and waxes from the paint, nevermind the chances of it getting into bearings.
A pressure washer might be applicable if your to wax the frame afterward.
A pressure washer might be applicable if your to wax the frame afterward.
03-26-10, 09:41 AM
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IMHO - if bicycle finishes are anything like car finishes, you do NOT want to use a pressure washer on them. High pressure water can actually strip the finishes and waxes from the paint, nevermind the chances of it getting into bearings.
A pressure washer might be applicable if your to wax the frame afterward.
A pressure washer might be applicable if your to wax the frame afterward.
Oh please! Here is a fantastic garden hose pressure thingy. Get them at Home Depot. Use them on your car, bike, even on your lawn. It won't hurt a thing.
03-26-10, 10:43 AM
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You're on drugs if you reckon throwing lots of water and detergent at a bike is the smart way to clean it.
Bad.
Just wipe it down and clean your chain properly. Give it an overhaul every once in a while. End.
Blasting water into the bearings, LOL
Bad.
Just wipe it down and clean your chain properly. Give it an overhaul every once in a while. End.
Blasting water into the bearings, LOL
03-26-10, 11:36 AM
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These on the other hand, will remove any wax on the surface.
03-26-10, 01:47 PM
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Guys if you're using water, you're doing it wrong. A very esteemed bike buddy of mine told me to use this substance called dihydrogen monoxide. it's a very powerful solvent and can supposedly work wonders at cleaning bike frames. i asked for it at my local supply store and they didn't have any in stock, though one guy gave me a bottle of water for some reason. if i can ever find this stuff i'll be sure to let you know where i got it 
03-26-10, 05:26 PM
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Oh dear god! It is OK to use a pressure washer. However, NOT a great idea to use one of those pressure washers that would clean a freaking driveway. If you inferred that I suggested to peeps out there to do that, man I don't know about you. I will say it again. Use a pressure washer, ya know guys. The kind, like a garden hose spray gun, that you probably already have in your driveway. The kind that you use to wash the car. The kind that you use to water the lawn, and some plants. If you think that I mean to go buy an industrial type of pressure washer powerful enough to do sand blasting, then you deserve to get your bike hosed. I mean that.
To those that don't want to get all wound up about it. Gasp! Water under pressure might hurt your bike! Hahaha! Here is another pic to wet your appetite. Check out the gun that this mechanic is wielding. BOOM!
03-26-10, 06:31 PM
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You really can't be too specific online.
11-23-10, 04:21 PM
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QUESTION: I've been using alcohol(rubbing kind) w/ a rag to go over my Carbon bike.. I find that it helps remove oil or smugges without much muscle. Is that a big THUMBS DOWN or is rubbing alcohol okay to play with carbon?
11-23-10, 05:33 PM
#24
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Don't use much pressure around bearings, , soap and water, and brushes .
Note: the Pros get lots of spare parts from sponsors ,
and never start a season with last year's bikes .
You don't have that luxury, I expect.
Note: the Pros get lots of spare parts from sponsors ,
and never start a season with last year's bikes .
You don't have that luxury, I expect.
11-23-10, 06:35 PM
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So, to be clear: it's okay to use a pressure washer, just don't use a pressure washer.
Garden hose sprayer does not equal "pressure" washer. I've never taken skin off my arm, peeled paint off a dump truck, or cut through wood decking material with a garden hose with ANY sprayer on it. But I've done all three with a pressure washer.
Garden hose sprayer does not equal "pressure" washer. I've never taken skin off my arm, peeled paint off a dump truck, or cut through wood decking material with a garden hose with ANY sprayer on it. But I've done all three with a pressure washer.
