2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2
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05-31-16, 05:12 PM
#103
Senior Member
Depending on your riding, there are 3 solid upgrade paths.
Option 1: Upgrade shifter to a 9-speed RapidFire II shifter (this allows your thumb to shift both up & down) Cost ~$30.
Option 2: Convert to a 1x9/10/11 system. For commuting, 1x10 or 1x11 seems about ideal, and you get to drop a bunch of weight & clutter. Cost ~$20-$150
Option 3: Convert to a 2x10 or 3x10-speed (new cassette, rear derailluer, shifter). Front ~$150, Rear ~$150.
Option 1: Upgrade shifter to a 9-speed RapidFire II shifter (this allows your thumb to shift both up & down) Cost ~$30.
Option 2: Convert to a 1x9/10/11 system. For commuting, 1x10 or 1x11 seems about ideal, and you get to drop a bunch of weight & clutter. Cost ~$20-$150
Option 3: Convert to a 2x10 or 3x10-speed (new cassette, rear derailluer, shifter). Front ~$150, Rear ~$150.
06-01-16, 01:30 PM
#104
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06-01-16, 01:37 PM
#105
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Depending on your riding, there are 3 solid upgrade paths.
Option 1: Upgrade shifter to a 9-speed RapidFire II shifter (this allows your thumb to shift both up & down) Cost ~$30.
Option 2: Convert to a 1x9/10/11 system. For commuting, 1x10 or 1x11 seems about ideal, and you get to drop a bunch of weight & clutter. Cost ~$20-$150
Option 3: Convert to a 2x10 or 3x10-speed (new cassette, rear derailluer, shifter). Front ~$150, Rear ~$150.
Option 1: Upgrade shifter to a 9-speed RapidFire II shifter (this allows your thumb to shift both up & down) Cost ~$30.
Option 2: Convert to a 1x9/10/11 system. For commuting, 1x10 or 1x11 seems about ideal, and you get to drop a bunch of weight & clutter. Cost ~$20-$150
Option 3: Convert to a 2x10 or 3x10-speed (new cassette, rear derailluer, shifter). Front ~$150, Rear ~$150.
Another reason is that the downpull front derailleur cable also prevents me from installing a kickstand in the area near where the aforementioned eyelet in the chainstay bridge is located.
06-02-16, 12:41 PM
#107
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It must be a very, very nice bike to ride now, because even completely stock it is pretty awesome.
06-02-16, 06:58 PM
#109
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Was it a straight swap when you replaced the rotors, or is an adaptor/spacers required?
06-03-16, 05:05 PM
#111
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06-03-16, 05:37 PM
#112
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Well the Toughroad comes with 160mm for front & rear. Most mountain bikes come with bigger rotors in the front than back. Usually 180mm front, 160mm back. You need the adaptor if you are replacing the 160mm with a larger rotor.
06-05-16, 05:27 PM
#113
Senior Member
06-06-16, 10:41 AM
#114
Senior Member
There's nothing you need to change on the bike. The brakes are excellent, the drivetrain is reliable and shifts smoothly. Even the stock tires aren't bad. They're reasonably supple, roll smoothly and have a good tread pattern for road or light trail usage. The only reason to swap components is ergonomics or weight.
06-08-16, 10:34 AM
#117
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As I see it, there are 3 'primary' reasons to go tubeless:
1. You are far less prone to flat tires! No tubes to puncture - and typically if something does happen to puncture or slice the tire casing, the liquid used to setup and seat the tire quickly seals it. Tubeless setup's can be prone to 'burping' but that is typically only with *significant* impacts on already low psi setups.
2. You can run much lower PSI with tubeless setups. If your 'gravel grinding' or riding mixed terrain, lower PSI can offer much better traction, grip and/or comfort.
3. It's lighter. No tubes=less weight
there are other pros (and cons) - but those are my personal top 3...
1. You are far less prone to flat tires! No tubes to puncture - and typically if something does happen to puncture or slice the tire casing, the liquid used to setup and seat the tire quickly seals it. Tubeless setup's can be prone to 'burping' but that is typically only with *significant* impacts on already low psi setups.
2. You can run much lower PSI with tubeless setups. If your 'gravel grinding' or riding mixed terrain, lower PSI can offer much better traction, grip and/or comfort.
3. It's lighter. No tubes=less weight
there are other pros (and cons) - but those are my personal top 3...
06-08-16, 10:41 AM
#118
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As I see it, there are 3 'primary' reasons to go tubeless:
1. You are far less prone to flat tires! No tubes to puncture - and typically if something does happen to puncture or slice the tire casing, the liquid used to setup and seat the tire quickly seals it. Tubeless setup's can be prone to 'burping' but that is typically only with *significant* impacts on already low psi setups.
2. You can run much lower PSI with tubeless setups. If your 'gravel grinding' or riding mixed terrain, lower PSI can offer much better traction, grip and/or comfort.
3. It's lighter. No tubes=less weight
there are other pros (and cons) - but those are my personal top 3...
1. You are far less prone to flat tires! No tubes to puncture - and typically if something does happen to puncture or slice the tire casing, the liquid used to setup and seat the tire quickly seals it. Tubeless setup's can be prone to 'burping' but that is typically only with *significant* impacts on already low psi setups.
2. You can run much lower PSI with tubeless setups. If your 'gravel grinding' or riding mixed terrain, lower PSI can offer much better traction, grip and/or comfort.
3. It's lighter. No tubes=less weight
there are other pros (and cons) - but those are my personal top 3...
But you don't have to buy a tubeless wheel-set to go tubeless. You can just tape the rims. That and I believe the Giant SX-2 rims on that bike are already tubeless ready.
06-17-16, 01:12 PM
#119
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Sorry for my English. I plan to purchase ToughRoad SLR 1. I have a problem with the selection frame size. I 179cm height and I do not know if the size M or L?
What you have frame size and how much growth you? Please help
Regards Przemo
What you have frame size and how much growth you? Please help
Regards Przemo
06-17-16, 05:47 PM
#120
Senior Member
Probably L. I'm 6'0" and fit on a L, the M was definitely too cramped. If you have long legs you might be happier on the M.
06-22-16, 01:19 AM
#121
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Thanks for your help gsa103 my choice is the size of M. And it was a good choice because he feels on it very well.
Such information for having a similar problem as me. I 179cm or approximately 5'87" M and is very well suited.
Such information for having a similar problem as me. I 179cm or approximately 5'87" M and is very well suited.
06-24-16, 11:03 AM
#124
Senior Member
I would imagine for any serious racing drop-bars would probably be better, unless it's highly technical riding.
06-25-16, 01:23 PM
#125
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You may be confused with another model - the Anyroad shares the same blue/yellow paint, yet nothing else.
All of the components (Tiagra) are road-based, yet it has slightly wider tires (32mm) than pure-road usage.
Gorgeous bike tho
All of the components (Tiagra) are road-based, yet it has slightly wider tires (32mm) than pure-road usage.
Gorgeous bike tho