Bicycle bearing grease lab test
#26
Senior Member
#1 Learn about basic tribology, - how does a lube work, what is a good lube, etc. Only then can you ask and answer the right questions.
Do you even know what constitute a grease, its components and properties? If you do you should be able to pick a suitable lube from a spec sheet, rather than testing every lube lube known to man, in search for a unicorn that doesn't exist.
https://www.skf.com/group/products/s...uitable-grease
For various reasons, - base oil viscosity and thickener type i vent with Motorex Fett 2000, that on paper has very good properties for a slow moving bearing, in a not so clean environment. Id like to see you test that one, if you please :-)
Do you even know what constitute a grease, its components and properties? If you do you should be able to pick a suitable lube from a spec sheet, rather than testing every lube lube known to man, in search for a unicorn that doesn't exist.
https://www.skf.com/group/products/s...uitable-grease
For various reasons, - base oil viscosity and thickener type i vent with Motorex Fett 2000, that on paper has very good properties for a slow moving bearing, in a not so clean environment. Id like to see you test that one, if you please :-)
Last edited by Racing Dan; 07-19-20 at 11:01 AM.
#27
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Back in the mid-80's I serviced a rear hub in a Rockhopper (straight up Deore) with CENEX wheel bearing grease. Stuff was brownish and the tub said it was good for disk brake wheel bearings. I just bought the grease and nothing looked funny about it.
After a few days of 10 mile commutes the rear wheel would turn a little rough, so I tore it down. The bearing balls were dull looking and no longer smooth. Try again, new bearing balls from same batch, same grease, and a few days later same result. Try again, new bearing balls, this time bought a new tube of Phil grease. Never another problem, rode the bike hard for another 10 years. Cenex are all over Minnesota, NoDak, Mont. etc.
Even though the word has been any grease will work in a bike, some are not up to the task.
After a few days of 10 mile commutes the rear wheel would turn a little rough, so I tore it down. The bearing balls were dull looking and no longer smooth. Try again, new bearing balls from same batch, same grease, and a few days later same result. Try again, new bearing balls, this time bought a new tube of Phil grease. Never another problem, rode the bike hard for another 10 years. Cenex are all over Minnesota, NoDak, Mont. etc.
Even though the word has been any grease will work in a bike, some are not up to the task.
Last edited by grizzly59; 07-19-20 at 06:12 PM.
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#28
Junior Member
cenex grease
Back in the mid-80's I serviced a rear hub in a Rockhopper (straight up Deore) with CENEX wheel bearing grease. Stuff was brownish and the tub said it was good for disk brake wheel bearings. I just bought the grease and nothing looked funny about it.
After a few days of 10 mile commutes the rear wheel would turn a little rough, so I tore it down. The bearing balls were dull looking and no longer smooth. Try again, new bearing balls from same batch, same grease, and a few days later same result. Try again, new bearing balls, this time bought a new tube of Phil grease. Never another problem, rode the bike hard for another 10 years. Cenex are all over Minnesota, NoDak, Mont. etc.
Even though the word has been any grease will work in a bike, some are not up to the task.
After a few days of 10 mile commutes the rear wheel would turn a little rough, so I tore it down. The bearing balls were dull looking and no longer smooth. Try again, new bearing balls from same batch, same grease, and a few days later same result. Try again, new bearing balls, this time bought a new tube of Phil grease. Never another problem, rode the bike hard for another 10 years. Cenex are all over Minnesota, NoDak, Mont. etc.
Even though the word has been any grease will work in a bike, some are not up to the task.
is this an auto or truck grease or intended for motorcycles? the failure wouod be that much harder and possibly a whbeel mettdown accident in these motor vehicles! I'd seek compensation from maker.
x
#30
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Over the years I have developed some idiosyncrasies that have no "bearing" on any testing.
For a long time I used Phil's grease on everything, then somewhere along the line I started using Finishline teflon on hub's and Phil's on the areas that take more abuse, at least in my mind; cup/cone bottom brackets (I think I still have one of those), headsets, pedals, and for lubricating threads, and seatposts. There is no rhyme or reason for that, but I have wondered if I should just go back to using Phil's everywhere.
I use Tri-Flow and Phil's oil, depending on the application. Phil's for freewheel and freehub bodies and Tri-flow for everything else.
I know that there will be those that will tout that back in the 30's during the depression we used whatever grease and if it was good enough then it is good enough now so why spend the money? I can buy a lifetime of good grease for less the cost of a single wheelset. It seems like a no-brainer.
John
For a long time I used Phil's grease on everything, then somewhere along the line I started using Finishline teflon on hub's and Phil's on the areas that take more abuse, at least in my mind; cup/cone bottom brackets (I think I still have one of those), headsets, pedals, and for lubricating threads, and seatposts. There is no rhyme or reason for that, but I have wondered if I should just go back to using Phil's everywhere.
I use Tri-Flow and Phil's oil, depending on the application. Phil's for freewheel and freehub bodies and Tri-flow for everything else.
I know that there will be those that will tout that back in the 30's during the depression we used whatever grease and if it was good enough then it is good enough now so why spend the money? I can buy a lifetime of good grease for less the cost of a single wheelset. It seems like a no-brainer.
John
#31
Senior Member
isn't this a waste of time? The companies who manufacture the greases do the testing and follow guide lines in the industry.
#32
Senior Member
Been using this for years. Waterproof. Thick. Loose ballbearings stay put when you're re-assemblng things. It's all good.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Xtr...xoCzTsQAvD_BwE
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Xtr...xoCzTsQAvD_BwE
#33
Senior Member
since dirt and water intrusion is what destroys bike bearings
excessive preload can have a sharp reduction in life due toincreased load on the rollers which in turn increases friction, damages the lubricant and can cause high operating temperatures.
Notice how rapidly bearing life decreases as preload becomes excessive.
Too much preload will destroy the best grease -- and destroy the best bearings -- much more rapidly.
Remember, preload increases as you get on the bike, put weight on it, and ride it.
Also notice bearing life is almost the same at no preload as optimal preload. However, it reduces quickly and dramatically as preload gets too high.
Last edited by RowdyTI; 08-06-20 at 10:01 PM.
#34
Senior Member
Been using this for years. Waterproof. Thick. Loose ballbearings stay put when you're re-assemblng things. It's all good.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Xtr...xoCzTsQAvD_BwE
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Xtr...xoCzTsQAvD_BwE
I consider bike bearings to be cheap and consumable, loose bearings are a few cents a piece and radial bearings common on bikes are in the $5-15 range. I'm still interested in seeing any test results.
Here is a general compare and some testing with the Lucas red version vs Supertech. The heat test he did would never been seen in a bike bearing but interesting to watch.
Last edited by u235; 08-06-20 at 10:30 PM.
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