Help me adjust 10 speed indexing
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Napa Valley, CA
Posts: 908
Bikes: Wife says I have too many :-)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 250 Times
in
158 Posts
Help me adjust 10 speed indexing
Trek with Campy 10 speed drive train. Ergo brifters. Replaced the chain and cassette. Having trouble adjusting the rear derailleur indexing. The front derailleur indexing was adjusted and is fine. When I shift up to the largest sprocket the chain goes up one by one pretty well. When coming down from the largest sprocket one at a time from the biggest sprocket it skips a sprocket coming down. I have been playing with the tension adjustment and can't seem to get it right. Whats the trick to get it dialed in ?
#2
Banned
My # 1 on indexing is the derailleur hanger alignment ... new 10 is more critical than old 5 x 2 10 speeds..
#3
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Mid Atlantic, Nawf Cackalaky, Rawlywood
Posts: 68
Bikes: 3 road steelys, 3 alu, 1 mtb, 1cx
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 22 Times
in
15 Posts
New chain and cassette were mentioned. I would strongly recommend checking the rear
gear wire. On my ergo 10 bike I replace the rear gear wire with a fresh campy gear wire
at least once a season, and fresh campy gear cable housing about once every 4 or 5 seasons.
Also, the ergo mechanism should be serviced with fresh lube, g springs, and spring carriers
as needed. The beauty of having older serviceable shifters.
gear wire. On my ergo 10 bike I replace the rear gear wire with a fresh campy gear wire
at least once a season, and fresh campy gear cable housing about once every 4 or 5 seasons.
Also, the ergo mechanism should be serviced with fresh lube, g springs, and spring carriers
as needed. The beauty of having older serviceable shifters.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Napa Valley, CA
Posts: 908
Bikes: Wife says I have too many :-)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 250 Times
in
158 Posts
Thanks for the tips guys. I will check the derailleur hanger aligment and I didn't mention that I installed new shift cables and housing.
#5
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,506
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3657 Post(s)
Liked 5,393 Times
in
2,738 Posts
In addition, check that the limit screw for the big cog is not too tight. If you have to force the chain onto the big cog, against the limit, it can spring down when released.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Posts: 6,341
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 550 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times
in
226 Posts
Trek with Campy 10 speed drive train. Ergo brifters. Replaced the chain and cassette. Having trouble adjusting the rear derailleur indexing. The front derailleur indexing was adjusted and is fine. When I shift up to the largest sprocket the chain goes up one by one pretty well. When coming down from the largest sprocket one at a time from the biggest sprocket it skips a sprocket coming down. I have been playing with the tension adjustment and can't seem to get it right. Whats the trick to get it dialed in ?
If you shift through two positions before it moves to a smaller cog, replace the shift cable (which is probably frayed) and housing (noting the rear loop should be at least 330mm long). Under cable routing having shifters level with the bar tops cut cable life in half. Cables can fail in under 2000 miles when you shift like you have ADHD. Housings last longer, but go high friction in about two cables and its simpler to just replace them at the same time.
Hanger alignment could also be an issue, although I'd bet on one of the first two causes which are common.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 08-09-20 at 06:13 PM.
#7
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,501
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2741 Post(s)
Liked 3,388 Times
in
2,051 Posts
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Napa Valley, CA
Posts: 908
Bikes: Wife says I have too many :-)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 250 Times
in
158 Posts
If the shifter skips a gear, replace its G-springs and carrier.
If you shift through two positions before it moves to a smaller cog, replace the shift cable (which is probably frayed) and housing (noting the rear loop should be at least 330mm long). Under cable routing having shifters level with the bar tops cut cable life in half. Cables can fail in under 2000 miles when you shift like you have ADHD. Housings last longer, but go high friction in about two cables and its simpler to just replace them at the same time.
Hanger alignment could also be an issue, although I'd bet on one of the first two causes which are common.
If you shift through two positions before it moves to a smaller cog, replace the shift cable (which is probably frayed) and housing (noting the rear loop should be at least 330mm long). Under cable routing having shifters level with the bar tops cut cable life in half. Cables can fail in under 2000 miles when you shift like you have ADHD. Housings last longer, but go high friction in about two cables and its simpler to just replace them at the same time.
Hanger alignment could also be an issue, although I'd bet on one of the first two causes which are common.
Thanks for the info Drew,
I replaced both the cable and housing. Sounds like the G-springs and carrier are suspects as you said. I have had the Ergo shifter for a while now, probably a good idea to do a rebuild.
It has been very reliable but they don't last forever. At least it can be overhauled unlike Shimano which would go in the trash can.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Napa Valley, CA
Posts: 908
Bikes: Wife says I have too many :-)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 250 Times
in
158 Posts
Thanks dedhed !
Very timely. I am planning on doing a rebuild now and the Branford Bike resource for the Campy parts is super !
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Napa Valley, CA
Posts: 908
Bikes: Wife says I have too many :-)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 250 Times
in
158 Posts
Thanks dedhed !
Very timely. I am planning on doing a rebuild now and the Branford Bike resource for the Campy parts is super !
#11
Senior Member
Before you go tearing apart the shifter, count your clicks and watch your cable with the bike on a stand. If the cable is moving with each click, and you get 9 clicks, then it isn't the shifter. You'll know when you need to replace the G spring when it shifts without clicks. It's not that it'll hurt to replace them, it just may not fix your problem. Before I replaced mine the shifting had become soft and after they shifted like new again. I had Branford rebuild the shifter after a crash and they did a great job but 13 years later I needed to replace the springs and I did it myself.
And remember the Campy secret handshake! What is it? Shh, it's a secret.
And remember the Campy secret handshake! What is it? Shh, it's a secret.
#12
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
It may be as simple as a burr or rough spot at one of the cable housing ends, causing extra cable friction.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html